TheLoyale

Some updates: I have now removed the rear trailing arm to de-rust and repaint. I cleaned and polished the new front bumper. Looks reeeal good now. The '81 4WD bumper came with another one of these bars, BUT there are major differences between the 1981 and the 1983 version - Top is 1983, bottom is 1981. The 1981 version is thicker and twice as heavy as the 1983 version, it also has an extra reinforcement stamping on each side. 1981 1983 Pretty interesting eh!? Here is the Midpipe/Cat flange. I am also on the look out for another set of these. Non ripped, with metal brackets/Screws. These are from a 1981 4WD bumper. (Do not need Lights) Anybody want this bumper?

Yes, belongs to that Kristjan guy. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106020&page=10

No one is parting anything, the Diff was a spare from his old SS which is long gone, and the stubs disappeared.

This is 100% true. Why does a 1947 Dodge pickup still have the original clutch disc in it? When a 2007 Honda needs one replace in 50,000? Depends how it was treated. Shawn, good to know about the Extra S from Subaru. I am debating if I should keep this diff, or give it back (As I only took it home to compare the two) and then I have the option to buy it if it'd work for me. Everything will work, except the axle stubs, I don't think there is any way to use the EJ DOJ on an EA axle, the splines look to different. Has anyone done this? or does somebody offer custom versions? Suppose I could save my self $50 and forget the LSD idea for now?

So now I have a better understanding of a VLSD in general. Only thing I am not sure on about this one I have is, Do I need to add an additive to the gear oil? Or is there a sealed unit which is not serviceable like the quote from Wiki states? I do know the Clutch style LSDs are more popular among everyone on the USMB, but the VLSD is still decent, yeah?

http://histomobile.com/make.php?id=9531

So this is indeed supposed to have Male stubs. Hmm... So I'll need the axle stubs from a Turbo car, guess I better start my search. Thank you guys

I just picked up a 3.900 Viscous Diff from my buddy who has an SS, The case matches mine from the EA81, the only difference is this diff has axle stubs that press into the diff Vs Diff stubs that stick out of it with a roll pin. SO my question is: How hard is it to find these DOJs with the stub build onto them, and can I make a hybrid axle with the EJ DOJ onto my EA81 Axle shafts? Are the shafts the same diameter? Cause I want to drop the whole rear diff assy under my car and bolt it up without changing internals. The only thing I do need to add to the EJ diff is the Bushing plate on top, other then that all looks good. Also where do I get the correct oil for the Viscous diff? I tried to turn the tail shaft, and could not, so then I checked the fluid level and there is no oil in it. Shouldn't the diff still turn somewhat easy with no oil in it? I couldn't really even budge it with a 1-1/8" Socket. -TJD

Possible ECU malfunction?

Interesting, no more Pinch Weld! I might do the same as you when I get my Rockers.

I am fresh out of ideas as well, but I would really like to know the answer too! This is mind boggling. Probably something real easily over looked too

The big rubber things in front of the bumper? Sure, I could sell them if you need them PM me what their worth to you and a Postal code and I'll see what shipping a 2lb box would run. Cheers! -Tom

This is an '81 4WD bumper I can't wait to clean it up, and then add some blinkers (Since there are non on this style) Should I get factory color matched paint and do the hood White again, or should I paint it Semi-gloss black? I think the white would look better, but would be harder and more costly to do. Hmm..

I snagged these goodies today from the Pick N Pull for $100. I forced my the guys hand to give me the wheel for free. Will clean up nicely with a little polish. Original Bumper I will need to replace the front Rad support structure. Somebody beat me back to the car, and removed the Passing Light bracket and center piece, But they forgot one key part, the Passing Lamp Push switch (Which I now have and is for sale to anyone who wants it)

Agreed, the 4spd is not a good match for an EJ. The diff in the car is a 3.900, which should be what you have in the Impreza.

Possible Vac leak somewhere? Intake gaskets good? Getting down there with possibilities, after everything you have swapped. There really isn't much to the TB with moving parts, very simple. I don't know how different, even incorrect injectors, could cause a revving issue. It would just be over or under fueled. But it is good to look at all aspects.

Did they give you a price for the whole car?

Perhaps type what you are looking for, in the google search bar, it will most likely pop up links to USMB in the search engine

This is possible, as the throttle cable is directly connected to the Butterfly valve on the TB, so it that is sticking, that might be the hard/sticky feeling. I know mine had a pretty good carbon/gunk build up before I cleaned it. Removing the TB from the intake might be over kill, (Would need a new gasket) I just spray and wipe it out while its on the car, the extra carb cleaner isn't gonna hurt anything, nor will any type of dirt which comes off (As long as you catch most of it) This could also be a faulty TPS, but I haven't seen many fail, so its a crap shoot. As for cleaning the MAF, do NOT clean the sensor tong with carb cleaner or any other sort. Use a MAF or Electrical spray cleaner which is not corrosive. I used Carb cleaner on a MAF once and F*cked it up for good lol..

Have seen that Sunday, I am going to take some more stuff off it. I kinda want the whole car and rebuild it, cause its a waste of such a rust free car... Its from So Cal.

I just read the rest of Kanurys post, I now understand what both of you were talking about. He is saying the vac line that runs to the Carb which controls the Vac Advance of the Disty, may not be hooked up right, giving you some running issues (if any) as it is NOT advancing the timing during revving. Before adjusting the timing, make sure the Vac Advance is working correctly first, if it is, and is still not running 100% then worry about advancing your ignition timing. As for the ASV, I am not 100% sure on that.

I am not telling you to do anything, you asked what "Vacuum Advance" was, I then told you.

To time an EA82 or pretty much any motor with a Distributor and Electronic Ignition (Not 100% about Point based systems) First, remove the little rubber plug on top of the bell housing, look in the hole, you will see the flywheel or Flexplate (Depending if its AT or MT) then, you will need to turn the motor until you see the engraved timing marks on the Flywheel, you will be looking for the mark 20* BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) you then mark that spot with something bright (Yellow crayon) Then, connect the Green (And or White) connector(s) up by the Wiper motor on the driver side firewall, then hook up you timing gun to the #1 Sparkplug wire, Start engine, let run till at operating temp and idle (500-750rpm) then, point the timing light into the bell housing through the window where the timing marks can be seen. You will then see your mark, line that up with the little arrow on the Bell housing by turning the Disty, Either Advancing or Retarding it to make it line up. Once lined up, tighten down the retaining bolts for the disty (10mm) shut car off, clean up everything and you should be done and ready to roll. -Tom

Why do you want to Time the engine? Did you ever touch the distributor?

Vacuum Advance is what a Disty uses to adjust Ignition timing through out the changing engine RPMs. Which is why you want the engine hot and at normal idle when adjusting ignition timing.