TheLoyale

Here is what I found using Wiki and google searches on the topic. Another thread about the same thing. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-176810.html

Thats kinda funny, I've gotten 2 big lag screws in the old BFG tires on my Loyale once. And then I got a Machine screw in the old tires on Trashwagon10 (never had a flat) I also had a new leaking Valve stem (there was a metal burr in the hole and it cut the soft neck of the stem) took me a little while to find the slight hissing which I kept heaing haha.

If you can find a 4WD EA82 Wagon/Sedan in a junkyard near you, it is pretty possible the tube will be in useable shape. They like to rust, but it takes a while for them to get to the crumbling point. As far as I know, there is no aftermarket supplier. Heck, you can't even get a Fuel tank or Rockers for the EA81 cars anymore, but you can indeed get them for the EA82 chassis. There is no aftermarket for the old Subarus like there is for the VWs...

Thank you for all the persuasive comments in helping me make my decision. Skyler, Nice wagon. Guess I am still on the look out for some 15s. Does anybody have a picture of a redrilled 6-lug wheel dead-on? I'd like to see the 4x140 pattern amongst the 6 lug pattern. (Its like trying to see the 13 original U.S Stars in a circle, in a maze of 50) lol.

Ah, gotcha on the bead. I also looked it up on Wiki, and have seen the differences. Personally, I've never had a flat tire, let alone a blow out, guess cause I buy good tires and always check them for anything. But either way, I agree about the side load stresses being more on a Vehicle vs. a trailer. Good helpful information, thank you Tom, understood on the Mag lugs now, I didn't think about have long the shank is on them. It was a 6 second thought while I was typing lol.

This is why I never take my car anywhere. No one is the wiser as to what I am sticking the wheels on (Although they did know they were going on a Subaru) and they liked it lol. They can touch my wheels, but no one touches my car.

As for chamfer bits, can anyone give me a link to the correct bit? I did a search for bits, but all I can find are versions for wood working. Also, what Degree would I need? Just had a thought, could I just drill a straight hole with no bevel/seat and then run a Mag lug?

This thread is about running 6x5.5 lug wheels on your 4x140 Subaru, by re-drilled your Hubs to the 6x5.5 patten commonly found on Toyota, Chevy, Nissan, Mitsubishi 6-lug wheels to name a few. Here we have a small compilation of (Re-Drill How-To's, Rim Center Bore/Backspacing/ Interchangeability) First off, Here are two good write-ups with photos on how to re-drill the Hubs for 6-Lug conversion. http://offroadingsubarus.com/6stud_conversion.html http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm Drilling the Hubs You will need the following parts: 1. Eight more 1.25x12M thread wheel studs. (Found at any parts store) 2. At least one 6x5.5 lug wheel for marking new holes on the Hubs. 3. Center Punch/Transfer Punch. 4. 14mm or 9/16" Drill bit. 5. Also a smaller 6mm or 1/4" drill bit to start the hole is good. 6. Preferably a Drill press, but a normal Variable-Speed Electric Drill can work. 7. Plenty of oil to lubricate the drill bit. 8. Angle Grinder with Grinding or Flapper Disc to smooth bures. 9. A big Hammer and/or Bench Vise. 10. And preferably a chunk of hard wood for the Drill bit to go through. 11. And of course, all the parts to remove the hubs from the car. You will start with your Stock 4x140 wheel hub. Grab yourself a Hammer and the a Block of wood. Place something under the hub next to the stud you want to remove, but not under the stud. Use the chunk of wood between the stud and the hammer to stop the hammer Mushrooming over the threads. Continue to hit it till it puts out. You will then have this: Now you will need the 6-Lug wheel. With the two remaining studs in your Subaru's hub, bolt it to the 6-lug wheel like you would if it was on a car. Now you should be able to see exactly where you need the new holes. Should look something like this: Line the Transfer punch up as close as you can get it to the center of the hole in the wheel. Transfer Punch Link: A transfer punch will easily and inexpensively transfer the center of the hole to the proper point on the wheel hub. Tip: Try looking at it from other angles to see if it really is centered. Strike the punch with a Hammer, it may bounce and put a smaller mark not directly in the center, make sure the mark is centered before drilling. Repeat 4 more times per Hub. Now take your 1/4" or 6mm drill-bit, take it slow until it bites and continue to drill. The center punch mark eliminates drifting the drill-bit may do while trying to drill the holes. Tip: When drilling the holes, if your using a power drill, make sure the drill is completely vertical, otherwise your studs will stick out all over the place and you'll never get the wheel on. If your using a drill press, you should have no problems at all. Now that you have the 4 new holes drilled to 9/16" or 14mm, Grab your Angle Grinder and flatten the back of the hub where the new stud will go. This is to make the stud sit in place without rocking around (which causes wear and may lead to the stud splines failing.) Place the hub on something hard. Put the new stud in place. And tap the new stud in until flush and seated. It should look like the picture below now. Tip: Some folks like to add a bead of weld to each stud to keep them from walking around incase they do not tap in snuggly. Here is another picture showing the Stub seated flush agains the Hub, this is the Rear Drum. Repeat all steps until you have 6 Lugs per wheel hub, and you are finished! This is what it should look like: Front: Rear: Now with Wheel Installed: _________________________________________________ Common 6x139.7 Wheels/Manufactures Chart:

I was mainly looking for wheels that not to many people are running (Something other then Pugs or Jackmans) I also didn't want to spend a boat load to get a set of wheels, Probably $200ish would be good. I kinda like the thought of 15" wheels with either of the sizes you posted: 195/65R15 = 25 205/60R15 = 24.7 I should make a thread just about using Trailer wheels, I know a lot of people have done it and I'd like to hear their experiences with them. What is the deal with different beads? Why are trailer wheels different then Automotive wheels? Considering some double wheel trailers can haul 15,000lbs+ (Goose Necks for one) JoAnne, What were the wheels you had on the Ford? Automotive class?

Latin American hey? Either way, it looks cool!

You will not be able to buy a "New" one, unless you go to the dealer, there might be new old stock. But you would be paying Hundreds of dollars for all the pieces. A used one will be easy to come by on here, ask in the wanted section and I'm sure you'll find what you need

Here is what a complete rear trailing arm assy looks like, This one is from an EA81 with tension rear suspension vs Coil overs. But the EA82 style looks fairly similar. To give you an idea.

Pretty interesting. At least the tailgate glass looks normal size vs the EA82 T-wagon.

Any 4WD EA82 will have the correct Trailing arm assy and Tube (You will need to swap over the 5lug stuff if it is an XT6) Pretty much everything chassis wise from an XT (MPFI EA82) will swap over from an EA82 GL. Chances of your tube being this bad might be hit or miss. My '83 Wagon which I'm sure sat for some time, has a solid tube still.

LOL! Wow...

Those are some thick flanges!

Trailing tube failure is pretty common in rusted Subarus, really easy to replace though. Tom's Picture:

Good to know! I might go this route (Or similar soon)

I remember when you first posted about this car, Looks like it came a long way! Looks really good, props to you bro Like that Grill retro fit and the 4x100 conversion Cross bars from a Ford Escape really fit on the Stock rack flooring?

My personal vote is for the Round hole wheels. I kinda like them better. Lets here what you, the people, have to say!

Good info Mick, thank you! I haven't tried to turn the rear adjustment bolt yet, but I did clean up the thread with a wire wheels before I repainted it. It might still turn with a little effort (Same goes for the fronts) So for giggles, I am looking at 15x6.6" 6-lug Trailer wheels. How hard is it to redrill steel wheels and make the correct lug seat? I take it, that I would drill the correct size hole first to make my Lug stud, and then use a larger bit to create the lug seat? I would then fill the unused holes with weld and grid smooth. Anyone who has done this before, please chime in Also, as long as I remove the warning sticker which I see on the wheel. A Tire shop won't be able to tell its not an Automotive wheel, right? Is there any real difference at all anyway? Was looking at these two sets, Which one does everyone like better? Vote.

Thats kinda what I was thinking. Cheers!

What wheels are these in the rear? I want!

The coupe does look real proper, I would like it! Change the wheels perhaps (less spokes would be nice) Perhaps I should stick the single headlight set up on my '83, looks good

I like that first Forester! Leave it to the Aussies!