s'ko

Well since a lot of your have said that they have never seen a top like the one I just got I took some pictures. It's a Snugtop. Makes the BRAT look like a old Cherokee huh?

AWESOME :clap: Make me want to get a 1st gen BRAT to play with.... I would probably do a midengine RWD EJ BRAT BW

If that is the case then go with a 2.2 phase 1 SOHC. Smaller engine, simpler to work on than the DOHC, Non-inteference engine, dual port exhaust, also tons of bolt on go fast parts. I have a EJ18 b/c it was free. If I had to do it again, I would go for a frankenstein 2.5 short block w/2.2 headers and turbo the mess out of it. BW

Wow someone put impreza wheels on a Camaro SS?? I am not sure which one is sexier.. the Camaro or the Soob.....

might want to flush out the radiator really good. Also your hoses may not cause the car to run hot, but it may burst on your and that can cause overheating i have some new hoses from the BRAT. Not sure what diameter you need but I can bring em and we can see. that's cause you have a crappy auto tranny. j/k. Not sure if that will do anything bad. Probably need to bleed out the brakes. B/c the brakes were working before this, and now it doesn't. weld it in place? once again J/K. I have two fans lying around, we can make it work. Switch is a good idea, just remember to fuse it so you don't get crispy wires and your car You should have flushed the tranny out when you did this. I might be able to come over this weekend and we can get some of these problems fixed. BW

You might have to use low profile tires to get 17's in there. I had a set of 205-60-15, (stock size for a 2k OBS) on some pugs put onto my BRAT once. W/the suspension cranked all the way up, I still hit the back of the fender well when I hit a bump. With 17th you would probably have to use 40 series.

welcome. Did you saw 1993? When was the last MVs made sold

since your pcv valve and hose was all dirty and stuff. You might be the built up crap blowing through the system right now. This may be that cause of your higher number. Maybe a seafoam treatment would first clear the crap out and add the alcohol. (denatured). good luck

That and the XT6/EJ front hubs have a different spindle than the BRAT. When I mean by spindle is the part that bolts to the hubs. I had to use the axles from a FWD Impreza. The DOJ splines match the EA81 tranny and the outer splines match the XT6 set up. I have to lengthen my control arms by 1 inch to get the camber correct. I have less than 1000 miles on it so I don't want to say that I did it right. BW

:lol: FTW

I think he means something like this.... SWAMP WATER, NOT A GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR BLINKER FLUID.

Thanks for the replies. i am kinda split 50/50. I like the way the BRAT looks as a truck b/c it's really a truck. But the shell is good b/c then i can put crap in there and not worry. Also I can tell people oh... I can't help you move b/c I have a camper . (I guess I can also use the line I can't help you move b/c I have a lift.) I would have preferred a high topper, but the camper shell was a trade with Scott F. I gave him some leftover EA81 stuff to get it. Maybe w/some fiberglass for sheetmetal....hmmm.... The buggy in the back is has a swing arm w/a chain drive. Here are some pics of the rear setup. Go to here if you want to see pics of the buggys setup. http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/boswan/IMG_0224.jpg http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/boswan/IMG_0226.jpg http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/boswan/IMG_0225.jpg

opinions. Keep it on... put in the garage for future use?

It's a lot like the FrankenBRAT project. The hardest thing to find will be XT6 rear 5 lug stuff. The front you can use EJ stuff. You might want to consider using an XT6/EA82 engine crossmember to get the power steering. MMMMMMMMMM POWER STEERING. Also w/the EJ stuff you will need to extend your control arms to get the camber right and the axles to fit, so that means welding. The magnitude of this project is not for the faint of heart. You are doing an EJ swap, a 5 lug swap on an EA81, installing a lift, a tranny swap and a lot of custom work to make it all work. One of these projects on the BRAT would be big. Doing all of them at once is a real PITA. It took me 10 months to get to the point where the BRAT is at. I still need to make some custom tranny mounts b/c they are starting to rip from the crossmember b/c of the bigger engine. Count the cost before you start. This can be a great project or it can be a big flop. If you can't weld, might want to befriend someone who can or learn how to weld. I think that you can do it, my only concern is that you bit off more than you can chew and then get pissed and discouraged and give up on the project. I had two XTs that I was trying to work on when I first was wrenching on soobs. Both of them are gone the way of the boneyard.:-\ I am always willing to help w/the swap when you start it. PM me when you have things underway so I can give you my telephone number Overall it would be an awesome BRAT. I would love to see it come to be. BW

don't forget the .50 caliber M2 in the back

used google to translate the site. the plush cars are from 25000 to 30000 yen. ($218.00 to $261.72) Wow... 1/2 the price of a real soob Small Engines are from $34-$41 bucks Large engines are the same price as the cars. Imagine a little EA81 to sleep on. BW

Gal Pm'ed you w/my telephone number. Zap, if this goes through you can send to my address. BW

nice. Yeah I was thinking of that problems with a fixed sprocket. I think that making a collar on a set of DOJ cups and then bolting the sprockets onto those will be the answer. The other option is the use a shaft driven motorcycle rear end, but I am not sure if you can get matching drive ratios. I have a FT4wd single range tranny from a GL-10 w/3.7 drive ratio. I agree with the weight issue. I will be making it first as a 2WD to get it to pass the weight test and other stuff like that, once it get a bit of miles I might see if powering the rear wheel is beneficial. One think I could do is power the rear wheel via an electric motor so it would be a hybrid. But then you have the weight issues of batteries. There are light weight batteries from Braille but they are pretty pricey. like I said this is a back burner idea that is gonna sit for a long time.

I have a hitachi intake manifold set up. You still need the carby but pay for shipping and it's yours. BW

That would work well. The fuel pump is adequate for the EJ and the lines are already fuel injection rated. RUST FREE... ahh gotta love California subarus...... BW

D - You should have a vacuum chart under your hood for your carby. Get all of those lines hooked up and would solve problem one. It may also solve problem 2 b/c then your emissions system would be working right. good luck with everything BW

te]Nice timing.... You should play the megamillions lottery BW

Skinny Clear your PM....

Go with an OBDI set up. You can get it to pass smog and be a CARB certified swap you can find old legacys or impreza for around a grand. junkyard would probably cost you about 400 full price. If you can catch a 1/2 price sale then your set level of difficulty is on the probably a 4 on the scale of 5. It depends on if you get buying or making your adapter. Mechanically speaking it's just pulling the engine and putting it back again. Electrical is time consuming but not difficult. what phizinza said EJ22 would be around 140 or so. Depends on your motor and what you want. EJ22 can be mildly turboed w/minimal changes. Fuel management is key. Bigger boost would require engine management and stuff. w/bolt on stuff you can probably get up to 160 or so. from free to thousands. EJ22 is a great platform to start a build on. YES. DO IT PM me and I can give you some info on the how to do it California SMOG legal BW

if you are going to do that you might as well toyota axles b/c then you have a choice or gearing and real lockers. Jerry-rigged stuff is usually b/c there are no feasible off the shelf solutions. If you can do it w/something designed and manufactured to do so. might as well save your pennies and get it b/c then there is one less thing to worry about trying to engineer right. Here is one idea I have kicks around. Similar to a corvette's transverse leaf spring set up. Basically the rear is still independent to a point, then when you stress it, it will articulate like a solid. Not exactly sure how it will all come together or if it will work. BW