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So from what I am reading I probably maxed out the current in the circuit and fried it. Next question, does anyone know the amount of current it is suppose to run at? I guess I could hook up a multimeter and determine that output w/o the engine on and then set the current at that. my guess it should be around 10 volts. That is what the other wires are reading w/the engine off. Does that sound about right? BW

The light is not the original one. it's a standard light bulb, similar to one from a turn signal. I have another ECU lined up and I plan to use an LED to light up the new on. BW

I am having some problems w/my Check engine light on my EJ18 motor. This is from an EJ18 OBDI motor swapped into my BRAT. I am trying to get it to pass inspection so I can register it. The referee will be looking to see that the check engine light is wired in and working. Here's the scoop. I am using a turn signal light bulb as the CEL. The CEL ecu wire hooked up to the bulb light as a ground and there is a wire coming from the fuse box to power the light, 15 amps. It worked and all of the error codes were fixed. I went and made a hole in my dash to mount the CEL and while I was finishing it up, the light stopped working. Fuse that it's connected to is not burnt out. Ohms meter shows continuty but when I turn the key on, there are no volts coming from the wire. I took the tachometer wire to the light and started the engine and the light lit up. I connected the black test plug and the light does not come on. (before when it was connected, the CEL lit up) I took the ECU cover off and looked at the circuit board and there does not seem to be any burns or signs of a short or it being fried. So anyone know what's happening? Should I just get a new ECU and not try and fix this? Thanks BW

mmmmm smoked link... Hehe Back to topic. When I go to the PAP, I grab the fusible links in the soobs I see. Never had one go out on me, but it never helps to have umm... 20 of them lying around?? BW

CRAP CRAP CRAP..... Ok so I have yet another problem. The check engine light is not working at all. I was working on a light in the instrument cluster and went it was done, the red/white CEL wire coming from the ECU does not work. The light will turn on when I hook it up to the tach wire. Is my ECU fried?? The car runs but at idle there is a slight stumble. Anyone?? BW

Atta boy Backwoods!!!!!!! Get that thing zapped up. I think I may start chopping up subaru's here in the local PAP and getting the wheel wells for you guys out in the rust coast. Gotta figure out how much it would cost and if shipping is worth it. BW

I took a wire and spliced it into the wire from the starter and connected it to the wire to the ECU. Problem gone. BW

themixtoo has been working on grafting the complete drivelines from an Impreza to a BRAT. It's taken him a year or so to get the stuff together. Not even sure he's done. Here is the thread about his build http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34445

Back to the original posting don't waste your money on that 600 dollar EA82T. You will be doing the same amount of work for a car that is going to give you severe limitations. Do a search for high powered EA82Ts or pm WJM or subarutex. They have all tried to squeeze power out of the EA82T and have now picked up the EJ banner. Take the 600 bucks and buy a rear-ended EJ (legacy or Impreza) EJ swap will be about the same amount as work as an EA82T swap. Like 75subie said EJ22 are cheap. Heck you can even get an EJ25 for cheap from a swapper. The best thing about the lower end EJ motors is that they readily accept stuff from the WRX. I have a BRAT w/an EJ18 in it. Love it. Power is a 50% increase from stock and it's reliable. No worries about overheating and pooping head gaskets and the t-belts are really easy to work with. Plus I can bolt on any EJ dual port exhaust headers (borla etc). And now that I have all of the hard work done. I can easily drop in a EJ22 or an EJ25. (BTW I went w/a EJ18 b/c I got two of them for $100.00 w/harness and ECU ) Go w/an EJ and your will not regret it. If you are not mechanically inclined or have limited tools, I would go with the adapters that are available here. Most of all have fun and welcome to the subaru world!!

I pulled my CEL lights and for now I am getting code 12 which is starter switch or circuit. I have the starter set up w/the BRAT starter circuit. So the engine management is seperate from the BRAT harness. How are other people setting up their starters? Should I take the wire from the starter switch and hook it up to the starter and see if the code clears? I need to clear codes b/c I have to pass smog emissions testing. BW

There a ghost in the background........

NICE work. Super easy mod huh? I guess no one ever thought of it before now. X2....

Subyrally: If $$ is an issue I would chip in $25 for you to get it. If 20 other people buck up, we can get it for you. I know that you've been lusting over a BRAT for ever. Come on people, let's make it happen for subyrally. BW

go for it. then put the EA82 into a Toyota body.. j/k I completely understand the statement "it gives me something to do in my spare time" Have fun doing it. BW

It kinda does make sense. If this gentleman worked in Florida and went home every weekend. You are talking about over 2136 miles or so. Given that he is a teacher, he would work rough 40 weeks. 4 weeks off for Christmas and 8 weeks off for summer break. That means he had to drive 1847.8 miles a week. (1,700,000/23=73913) (73913/40=1847.8) doing a 2136 round trip 40 times a year is 85440. (2136x40=85440) That would take him 19.90 years to do 1,700,000. Yeah I have too much time on my hands.. and evidently so did he... BW

+1 on letting the starter to the work. just remember to unplug the ignitor or removed the plugs so that the engine doesn't start. Also if it's a manual, just put the thing in gear. If your clutch is in good shape it should hold and allow you to loosen the bolt. BW

Well driving a roundtrip from Univ of FL to CT every weekend is about 2136 miles. The math adds up. That's AWESOME. :clap: BW

What area of LA do you live in? If you are looking to get work done on your carbetooter, there is a company called Songs Carburetor in Long Beach. I have yet to use them. Most mechanics do not want to work on the older stuff. Raffi will give you some advice over the phone and stuff, but they charge a lot more for the EA stuff. Suby Specialties are the same. What is wrong with you carb? BW

86BRATMAN: The camber problem sorta still there. I have EA82 control arms w/XT6 hubs and 2000 Outback struts w/4 inch spacer. The camber get all \--/ when I turn the wheels while it is standing still. When I drive, the camber corrects itself and runs |-|. Atleast that's what I noticed when I get out of the car after I am done driving it. If you are running EA81 arms, I would definately recommend using EA82 ones. They are a direct bolt on. I looking to either make some custom lower arms. But have to get some non-subaru related stuff in order first. I think it's that thing called LIFE. I plan to put some 205-55-16 tires from my impreza to see how it handles. Should be interesting. BW

I went to look at the car at lunch and I think I found the problems. 1) the e-brake lines and the hard mounting tab was rubbing against the axle. This might be the cause of the grinding noise. 2) the front wheels are not toed correctly. The passenger side is off by a couple of degress to the outside. This could be the cause of the additional stress. I don't have any tools with my to adjust the toe so I will have to limp it home and get it adjusted before I do another freeway jaunt. Will also looking into the other things while I am at it. BW

I think that if I put it into a stock car, it would do well. But with a lifted rig, it's not that great. The power is about the same as an EA82T. Besides I got two EJ18s for 100 bucks. I am considering how to built a turbo motor with the one that sitting in my garage. BW

It drove ok. I think I got a bad wheel bearing that needs to be replaced. (See Old Generation Forum) Power was nice. I really didn't want to get on it too hard b/c my tranny mounts are pretty fried. I have some urethane and I am going to make me some of those fancy stiff tranny mounts with that stuff. One thing that I really did like was the dual range FWD option. As most of your know I seperated the hi-low selector from my EA81 tranny. One problem that I ran into when doing this is that in hi range, the car tends to slip out of gear and fall in between the hi and low gear and you are dead in the water. Surprised me the first time but know I expect it. with the tranny in hi gear, EJ18 w/205/80/16 tires was struggling a bit to power the car in 4th gear at around 65. There may be some drag on the car b/c of the bad bearing or bad alignment. When switched to low gear the throttle response was a lot peppier. Shifting on the fly between high gear and low gear is possible if you put the car into neutral and then select high or low. Then drive as normal. Will post more when I have more miles under this mod. BW

I took my EJ BRAT on it's first extended freeway drive. The car pull to the left a bit so I have to get that corrected. There is a strange thunking sound, increasing w/speed. When I decelerate, I get a mild grinding noise that stops when I apply brake pressure. When I stopped, I looked at the front end to make sure that the castle nut was tight and it's was good. I felt the passenger CV and it was too hot to touch. The driver side CV was warm. Drove 10 miles or so at 65 mph and about 2 miles at surface street speeds. Are we talking bad wheel bearing. Mileage on that part is unknown since I got it from a PAP. Could the pulling to the left cause stress and heat to build up? Thanks for the advice. BW

Good luck. I am just working out the last bugs from my swap. Took it for it's first drive on the freeway this morning. I think the wheel bearings are bad. If you need help PM me. Regarding the wiring, make sure you have a good printout of the wiring for the ECU. Then just take the loom and trace wires from the plug to it's end. Most of the ECU stuff will go to the two plugs near the throttle body. The wires that you need to splice out are ones for the AC and the power ones. Mine BRAT has two harnesses. One for the engine and the original harness for the chassis. ECU is powered by a wire coming from the fuse box to through a 15 amp fuse to the ECU. ECU memory is through a 30 amp fuse directly hooked up to the battery. Have fun and take pictures. BW

Looks nice. Did you mount them to the stock bumper tabs? You might want to consider reinforcing the mounting tabs for the bumper. When I took my bumper off, I noticed that there were made out of stamped sheet metal.