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NICE. The thread was about the cam bolt on a WRX motors strip out all of the time. from what I saw, the clamping force on this bolt is from the washer area. Will take pics tomorrow. I am just waiting for the water pump to come. BW

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana: I went outside to start working on it and it still doesn't turn. I read on the SVX forums and NASIOC about using a dremel and a cutoff wheel to remove the washer area. I figures since the bolt is already screwed, I might as well give it a shot. Trimmed off the washer area of the bolt and it came off with a pair of pliers. You have to be careful when you trim it b/c you don't want to damage the gear. Thanks all for your input. Time to return to the SEAR Bolt-remover b/c it doesn't work. BW

I have a friend with an 18 volt electric impact gun. Hopefully that will be enough. I am using 3/8 socket stuff. But this might be a reason for me to upgrade to 1/2 stuff. I am holding the cam gear by wrapping the old timing belt around it once and then overlapping the belt on top of itself. Then looping it onto a pulley. I will take a picture as it is hard to describe. But basically as the bolt is moved, the belt will tighten and keep the gear from spinning. after my last post, I have taken left it overnight w/ PB blaster in it. Let's see what happens. BW

I got it filed down to a 16mm size. It is stuck on there so tight that I spun the tips on two extensions and cracked a bunch of socket. Also killed my rachet. Good thing it's got a lifetime warranty. I did heat/liquid wrench/tap cycle a few times. I am gonna call it quits for now and get my rachet replaced. Let is sit overnight and then have at it tomorrow. BW

I am replacing the water pump in my SVX and I am having a hard time removing the driver's side camshaft bolt. I am using a 3 foot breaker bar and it's not budging. I started to round off the bolt. I bought the SEARS bolt remover and I am having trouble using it. The one that fits the bolt starts to bite and then it slips off. I filed the bolt and was able to make is a 16mm head. Still no go. What is the torque spec for this bolt. Any recommendations for getting it off. I am afraid to use heat b/c of the cam pulley. BW

Here is a link to some wheels that will work w/the SVX http://svx-motorsport-accessories.stores.yahoo.net/crossoverrims.html OEM Ford Probe 93-97 300 ZX Wheels 93-97 Mazda RX-7 wheels Lexus wheels Murano wheels... HOT.. [/url]

Talk to Garage Tuning in Anaheim 714-288-2887. They should have a bunch or at least access to some in the future. Tell em Bosco sent you. BW

There already is a rally/drive in the west coast. it's the annual trek to WCSS. I have yet to go...

Ok so I was able to back track what I did the first time and I think I know where the problems occured. 1) Improper torque of the flywheel bolts. The three bolts that snapped did not have any damage to the bolt heads. The others showed signed of being chewed by the springs on the clutch plate. For future EJ swappers I am gonna recommend that you just replace the flywheel bolts. They are .90 cents each and it's that little bit of insurance. I think the bolts are designed to stretch a bit when torqued and that provides a more tension and clamping force. Re-using them could lead to inadequate force. So all it well. BRAT is back together and roaring just fine

guy at the end not only flipped, he had a bandage on his head. Hmm.. me thinks he should lay off of the Vodka. I think those were soviet mobile nuclear missile carriers. No wonder they were a huge part of the Soviet nuclear defense strategy. Those things can go anywhere. bw

Go for restotification. Basically.. Start the restoration process, but while you are at it modify parts for better performance. Like upgrade you rear drums to EA82 discs. If you can find XT6 parts, get a set for 5 lug hubs. EJ SWAP would get you more power but also increase the complexity of the project. 5spd tranny swap would be nice, but it would also take a bit of work. Have fun. BW

STI intercooler is a good place to start. NASIOC will probably provide you with a better idea of what you need.

wow. That's cool. I think for me.... I might want to keep both feet on the ground until I get better at wrenching and stuff. Something breaks on a car, it will roll to a stop. Something breaks on a plane

He's saying that the kind of travel you are looking at is pretty big. On a solid axled vehicle, the doesn't have to worry about CV's exploding and stuff, you have to do some pretty serious modding to get 15-20 inches. On our independent axle setups you will have to figure out how to get the axle to swing the 15-20 inches w/o making some screwy camber angles. Think about it. In order for the tire to maintain the correct camber as it travels up and down, you will need to have the axle stretch. Otherwise the camber angles will go from positive at the top swing of the suspension to negative at the bottom end. I think high travel lifted soobys are the next progression of off-roading subarus. Then you have to think about "WHY" you want high travel. Do you want articulation abilities for rock crawling and such or do you want BAJA jumping absorbtion like a trophy truck. Good thread. BW

I put impreza seats into my BRAT Use the front inside mounting tab as starting point. Then I lined up the rear of inside tab with the tranny tunnel and drilled a hole. Put a 12mm bolt w/big washers to secure that. The front outside tab is off by about 1/2 inch or so. I did something similar to what Tsutomu did in his first picture, except I welded the piece to the tab instead of using a bolt. The rear outside tab was about 3/4 of an inch too high. Took a piece of square tubing and put it there as a support and drilled another hole in the floor pan. Used another 12mm bolt w/big washers to secure it. They fit really nice. Took about 15 mins a side. Go scour nasioc or RS25.com for someone who just bought wrx seats and see if you can have them? BW

fuel pump modulator might be for the "POWER" mode for the SVX. If you double tap or accelerate hard on the SVX, the ECU will move the shift points and other fancy stuff to make the car accelerate faster. Might want to go to subaru-svx.net and ask around. BW

like he said. Removing the stff wuld make it lighter. But making it a 6X6 would rock.

haven't tried it, but I have looked at the torsion bar set up of an EA81 and thought about it. I am not sure what you mean by removing the CV's but from what I saw, you can just remove the rear diff and related bits and pop out the axles and that should work. It would be like the rear setup for a FWD car. Enough typing.. .more zzz and BTW please tell me you are doing to a damaged, rusted out or otherwise BRAT. BW

No worries about dissing. I am humble enough to realize that I am a shade-tree mechanic who jerry-rigs stuff to make it work. I did make my own plate. I use the bottom two bolts to serve as a guide since they are the ones that are the same. Test fitting the two together w/o the clutch showed that the input shaft went right into the pilot bearing w/no probs. I plan to take the flywheel to a auto machine shop to have them take a look at it. I have another EA81 flywheel bolted to the back of the old BRAT motor that I can take off if I have to re-drill. Will be taking a crack at it this weekend. BTW thanks for all of the input/comments and all. Hopefully this doesn't happen to others. BW

so should I get it welded and then re-drill the holes?

I hear you. I will take pics tonight. When I say quicksteel, I mean using the stuff to eliminate the oblonged holes and make then round again. BW

True. I am going to use some quiksteel to make the holes round. Basically put a longer bolt in temporarily into the hole and then pack it w/quiksteel. Right now I have the newer engine apart and I am painting it. It's gonna look nice BW

2008 Tribeca Ok I can deal with this. This is a good re-design.

I am gonna put the engine that I just got in there b/c the crankshaft mating surface is pretty chewed up and there are three broken bolts sticking out of it. If I were to use the engine that just came out, I will have to take it to a machine shop to get it smoothed out and milled flat. they PRobably will not do it unless the crankshaft is removed from the engine. BTW I Scott F. I spoke to the guy about the shop space. No go. He was interested in hosting a spot for the lemons race. Also give me a call, I lost your numbers b/c my wife got my phone wet. BW

I was removing the EJ18 motor from my BRAT and as I split the engine/tranny apart I looked at the tranny and I see the back of the flywheel still attached. The engine crank shaft had some broken bolts sticking out of them So, what I thought was a dead motor/spun crank bearing was actually the flywheel bolts. three bolts snapped off and the rest worked themselves lose. I spoke to a friend of mine who's a subaru rally mechanic and he said that everytime you remove the flywheel bolts, you should get new ones. Something about how the torque spec really stretches them out. i also think that when I reamed out my holes for the flywheel, they were not perfect. I think the one that snapped was tough to get in and it may have put some side force on the bolt. I plan to take my reamer to it and give them all a good shaving to make sure that they have adequate clearance. That and buy new flywheel bolts. Anyone have this happen?