s'ko

I have an EJ18. So there is a HP gain from the stock EA81 but nothing to about. I think I am going to drop the lift bits and trim the lift block by an inch. That should give me a bit more diff height. Thanks for all of the input. BW

How about helium?? Then get some helium ballast tanks and maybe hook up a prop into the rear drive shaft. It's will be a ZEpbrat.... Darn.. .to bad Zap didn't say that then I could call it a Zapplin.

yeah I forgot my camera at work. I was jumping like an idiot last night when I got the wheels to fit. The lift blocks for the rear are the same height as the front blocks. I might take them down and lower chop it by an inch. That should move things up. I did the rear diff hanger like this http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j208/boswan/diffhanger.jpg I also noticed that it's not all bolted up tightly. I will probably get about and inch or two when it's all secure. Will take better pictures this weekend. BW

I am almost done with my lift. The BRAT looks mean. It’s sitting on 225/75/16 or 29x8.8/16. The back bumper sits 39 inches off of the ground. But the center differential is about 10 inches. I used 5X2 square tubing to make the lift. The diff hanger I welded a piece of metal plate and dropped it 5 inches. What else can do to get more clearance in the middle? Here is a really bad cell phone camera picture of the wheel. BW

I am at the same point too. On the EA81 from with I figured out, the large hard line on the drivers side is the fuel in. the smaller one on that side is the fuel return line. The one in the middle of the firewall is the vapor line. So if you plug the return line and then get a new hard line and make my own thicker return line that should solve the pressure problem. Unless of course no else is having problems with their stock system. BW

I made some changes to the excel file. it's a protected workbook now so you can't mess the formulas up. if you want to tweak the workbook, click tools at the top menu bar and go to protection and select unprotect. The formulas are also put into the comments section of the cell. place mouse over cell w/red triangles. Enjoy. BW

I know there are a bunch of online tire calculators to convert from metric to inches and all but it’s kinda of a pain to go back and forth and not be able to keep track of the numbers. Besides I work at a place that times your internet usage. So here are the formulas. (btw .03937001 is the conversion from inches to mm.) For metric to inches: Best way to set up the table is to have the titles in the following order Column A _______________________|Column B _____________|Column C 1 Width _________________________|Ratio ________________|Rim 2 205 ___________________________|55 __________________|16 3 4 Diameter _______________________|Width _______________|Rim 5 =sum(widthXratio)X(.03937001)X2+rim |=sum(widthX.03937001) |=sum(rim) You have to change the formula values for width, ratio, rim according to the cells that you have the values in. example. Values are entered on line 2 of a spreadsheet. So formula would be =sum(A2XB2)X(.03937001)X2+C2. For inches to metric Column A ___________|Column B _________________________|Column C 1 Diameter __________|Width ____________________________|Rim 2 24.87794__________| 8.0708521 ________________________|16 3 4 Width ____________|Ratio _____________________________|Rim =sum(width/.03937001)| =sum(diameter-rim)/(.03937001)/2/width*_|=sum(rim) *the width here is the value to the left of the ratio field. This is easier to use b/c the number you are getting the inch width/.03937001. Since you already have that figure in field A4. No sense in typing more that you have to. So for ratio the formula would be =sum(A2-C2)/(.03937001)/2/A4 Well hope this is useful. BW just found out you can upload xls files, just click on what I made and enjoy.

mmm... I think I am game, have to check w/other 1/2 and then decide which soob to take. This would be a good shakedown trip for the BRAT. But OBS is more reliable. We'll see.. BW

Update for those who didn’t make it to the BBQ Had a good turn out. Not much work done on other people’s cars. Dan, with the pristine Blue WRX wagon helped me with getting fuel lines looked at. We first tried to use the existing BRAT charcoal canister and stuff, but that turned out to the be a huge PITA. After looking at a Legacy motor, I decided retro-fit EJ stuff instead. The best part of the weekend was I hooked up the engine harness and the ECU and I was able to get spark to the plugs. So I just need to get the fuel stuff resolved and it should start. Went to the Pick a Part and found a Legacy sitting there. Got the charcoal canister and some assorted fuel parts for about $20.00. In terms of wheels I decided to go with 225/75/16 wheels. The tires are equal to a 29 inch tire and they will be mounted on WRX rims painted white. Muffler will be a 2002 WRX exhaust. Will use the exhaust from where it bolts to the down pipe to the muffler. I have get a 90 degree elbow made so that I can bolt it up where it meets the headers. It would be nice to get some larger diameter headers later on b/c the 1.8L headers are pretty puny. Estimated time of completion would be 2 weeks. BW

I need some help regarding the fuel hard lines from the fire wall on my BRAT There are three hard lines, a small one in the middle, a big one on the driver's side and a small one on that side. I figure that the big one is fuel supply but what are the other two? Thanks BW

I just put on the XT6 parts onto my BRAT. You will not be able to use the EJ/XT6 tophats on the old EA81 strut. I will not seat right, besides that tops of the EJ/XT6 struts need to rotate and the EA81 ones don't do that. If you are using using EJ struts w/XT6 front hubs you will need to grind down the mounting tab on the hub to get the strut to mount. Impreza FWD axles will work. It is a bit of a bear getting the axles in b/c they are a bit longer. I had to disconnect the strut from the hub to get it to fit. The rears are going to be the biggest issue in terms of the swap b/c EJ stuff will not work. The only way of doing it is with xt6 rear brakes BW

I put a Ej18 w/5 inch lift, I used an EA82 crossmember/power steering rack. It's mated to the stock 4spd D/R tranny. I have XT-6 hubs front and rear allowing for 5X100 wheels. That to me is the ideal set-up. To run the Ej20TT you will need the computer and harness. A D/R probably would not be able to handle the power from the Ej20TT so you might need to use an EJ tranny. Then comes a bit of fabrication and custom work to get the drive lines hooked up. If you got the XT parts car and are going to do a lift, then use the lift blocks to serve as an adapter and use the XT's crossmember and power steering set up. That's about the extent of XT parts that are usable. The seats are pretty cool, but they are probably messed up from age. I think that what you are going to do depends on how skilled you are and what kind of tools you have. Good luck BW

Ok so I was messing around yesterday w/the FRANKENBRAT and I got spark. So I just need to finish the fuel system and I should be read to start it up. Here is my question. THe BRAT has three hard lines coming out of the firewall. A big one and a small one near the drivers side and one small one near the middle. how did people route the fuel to the engine. BW

Me too......

Mike. no problem. I will probably be up that way soon, I am due for a pismo run. BW

3 day bump Meet is still on for those in the area BW

isn't your coupe 2wd. You can convert it to fulltime 4wd w/the XT6 tranny. BTW I would be interested in your engine lastly are you coming this weekend? BW

well one of my teammates sister in law owns a EA82 GL wagon. Looks like we will be getting this as our car. I am going to see if its too nice to trash. Will post picks when we get it. BW

Cracker, sure. I think there will be enough people there who can lend a hand. I am a little behind in my BRAT project. I had some problems with the tranny mount lift blocks and I had to re-work them. Other than that it's all going well. Still need the ignitor. BW

welcome. YEAH another SoCal member. Have you tried taking your ride to the top of Saddleback? Roads are really mild and it's a great view on a clear day. Come to my BBQ if you are free on the 24th. BW

I was getting rid of some dents on my floor board of my BRAT and when I started hammering, the sound proofing tar stuff chipped off. I guess w/age and heat, the tar stuffed turned into a hard plastic like stuff. The rest of the sound proofing I chipped off w/a screw driver. Has anyone else ever run across this? BW

post up some pics. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. BW

Scott. Most of the work done on soobs to date are either body lifts w/lift blocks or solid axle conversion. Custom A-arms have been talked about and so have other theories. I don't think there is a lack of ideas, it's mostly time, money or ability. In terms of axles from other subarus to the BRAT, the newer soobs have a larger diameter stub axle, so the DOJ are larger. Also the EA axles use a ball and race set up, while the EJs use a DOJ w/three round bearings. It may be possible to swap out the entire DOJ joint on an EA82 axle to an EJ axle, but I haven't tried it. Another problem when dealing with the EJ axles is that the EJ hubs have a smaller diameter spindle. Converting your front axles to EJ hubs would be possible, similar to an XT6 front hub conversion, but you would have to retain the stock type lower control arm w/radius rod. The EJ a-arms are nicer but you would have to do a lot of custom work to get it mounted to your chassis. Come over sometime and you can take a look at what I have going on in my BRAT. L8TR BW

Also you would have to do the whole car.

Definately down for Pismo. Let me know a few weeks ahead of time so I can plan accordingly BW