s'ko

Ok i checked the radius rods. They are tight. I did notice that if I turn the wheels they shift a little backwards. I have to get a friend to turn the wheels while I look underneath. I also noticed that the camber when turning left is /--|. Which is the opposite way that it's suppose to be. my OBS is like this \--|. I was not able to mount the sway bar b/c I had to drop the exhaust and I didn't have time to do that. I am running Impreza FWD axles to they are the right length. I am using a 1 inch square tube for a pitch stopper on the EJ motor. struts are 2002 OBS front struts. Tranny mounts are crappy EA81 mounts. I am looking into working up rear brace for the tranny to give it more support. I am also going to jack up the front end and see if there is some movement in the control arms. Will keep everyone posted. I have to clean out my garage b/c there's a pool of gear oil that needs to be wiped up. BW

just thought of something else. The radius rods were tightened with the old set up. I didn't readjust then with the longer control arms. will loose radius rods give you wheel hop? BW

BRAT w/EJ18 w/xt6 engine crossmember 5 lug, 5 inch lift, modified control arms, 225-70-16 tires. No front sway bar. (will be installing that when I get home tonight.) I had some pretty nasty camber problems after I installed a xt6 engine crossmember to my BRAT. I wanted the power steering and the 5 lug set up. Anyways my tires were like this \--/ so I extended my control arms by an inch. It currently sticks out one inch after the radius rod. So I only changed the track and not the geometry of the control arm/radius rod. Any ideas on what happened? Toe seems to be right. Not sure about the caster. Camber is still a bit \--/ but no where near what it was like before. any ideas? BW

Hmm.. seems like I have developed the same problem. BRAT w/EJ18 XT6 front crossmember w/custom stretched control arms. (I extended my lower control arms by about an inch b/c I was running XT6 front hubs and the axles were getting compressed.) I also don't have my sway bar in, so that may also affect it. How did you fix this?

+1

I was unemployed when I was doing the rear part of the project. I have yet to really take it off roading. It does eat up the bumps and dips in my area nicely. Once it get it back together I will take it for a romp and see how it works out. Bw

Axle boot job was my first repair on my BRAT. BTW CV grease is a PITA and it's nasty stuff. I was just playing with an axle yesterday. Tools: pliers degreaser rags gloves punch hammer rags flat screwdriver 36mm socket and breaker bar, (if you plan to remove axle) circlip plier or fine needle nose plier rags utility knife Parts: boot kit. Should have a boot and two straps. axle grease rags For axle removal, while the car is on the ground, w/e-brake on remove the hub cap and you will see the castle nut. Take the pin out of the nut and then loosen the castle nut w/the 36mm socket. You might have to stand on the bar to loosen it since it's suppose to be torqued down to 150lbs I think. Jack up car. place on jack stands. (btw JACK STANDS are a most anytime you go underneath a car) otherwise you might go the way of your first soob. Remove the castle nut all the way. tap the axle a bit with a rubber mallet or a piece of wood. Don't want to mess up the threads w/a metal hammer. RELEASE E-BRAKE Turn the wheel so that rear of the tire w/the busted axle turns out. so for drivers side axle turn the wheels all the way to the right. Get underneath that car and rotate the axle until you see a hole/round indentation on the inner cup near the tranny. This is the axle pin sits. Take a punch and tap out the pin. Cut the remaining boot off of the cup. You should be able to remove the axle at this point. Removal at the tranny side usually works. If you can't get it off, then you might can always loosen the ball joint and get more travel. Take the axle and put your finger into the cup. Move is around the lip of the cup and you will feel some grooves, there will be a round metal ring about the thickness of a coat hanger in the groove. Take the screwdriver and pry the piece out. This is what retains the axle w/the cup. Axle will slide out of the cup. You did remember the rags right.... Clean up the joint and you will see a round race w/6 balls. The circlip is what holds the whole assembly on. Remove the circlip. This is what it looks like. The circlip pliers are suppose to do this The race assembly slides out. Take your screwdriver and pop out the balls. Then remove the inner carrier and clean it. Also clean the cup. On the axle shaft, remove the strap holding the boot to the axle and clean. Do the same to the cup. I usually use a angle grinder w/a cutting wheel, but pliers will work as well. (do you see why you need a ton of rags?) Take the new boot and slide it onto the shaft. Since everything is nice and clean, secure the boot to the axle re-assemble the race and slide it onto the shaft. Re-install circlip. Take the grease, pack it into the race assembly and the cup. I don't think there is anyway of overpacking. I usually put about a handful of grease into the cup and then slide the axle in and top it off. Re-install the retaining ring. Take the axle boot and slide it over the cup and install the strap. Use up more of your rags. and another pair of gloves. Wipe off the axle and your at the home stretch. Slide axle into the hub. Install the inner cup onto the tranny stub axle. Here's where I got caught up the first time I did this. you have to line up the hole on the cup to the hole in the stub axle. Now one way is perfect, the other way is a tooth or so off, so the pin will go partially in but then get hung up. Shine a flashlight into the hole to make sure you have it lined up right. Tap axle pin in and tighten the castle nut. Get the car back on the ground. Put on E-brake and then tighten the crap out of the castle nut. I usually stand on it and bounce up and down a bit to get it really tight. Install the pin and put the hub cap back on and go inside and wash all of that nasty grease out of your hair/face and arms. (yuck) Change clothes and enjoy relax w/a can of Coke BW

Speaking of Indians.... My friend and I who are both Chinese, once went to Montana once w/another friend to visit his family. We were browsing in a store and this dude comes up to us and asks... "what tribe are you from":lol: BACK to topic.... Ping Pong. If you need EA81 parts I have some in my garage left over from my swap. BW

So I am considering building a supercharger setup. Here is the catch. I would like to make it modular so I can put it on either the EJ18 BRAT or my EJ22 2k OBS. the EJ18 is from a 1995 OBDI car. EJ22 is a OBDII car. I have a spare intake manifold for an EJ18 sitting around and IIRC it will bolt up to the EJ22 w/no problems. Is this doable? Is there a aftermarket computer that I can switch profiles for both engines? I am looking at 5-10 pounds of boost so nothing insane. Just a little more pep. BW

or you can get a piece of lexan and put that in place. Not sure of the laws concerning that other there but it's probably the cheapest way to go. I have people who are stupid. Long time ago I has some punk kid throw a rock at my dad's car and it hit the passenger rear door right below the window. My sister was sleeping against the glass so had it been a few inches higher . I know in some states throwing anything at a car is a felony. BW

Welcome to USMB. As one of the old-timers of SoCal it's always great to have more people in the area. Who knows maybe one day we will be able to do a USMB mini-meet/BBQ. the wagon looks nice. re:the subframe and engine swap, go to the retrofitting forum and look at what people are doing there. It would be a lot cheaper to do a EJ swap than the vortech. BW

It really depends on how much work you want to do to the wagon. are you going to lift it? Getting longer shocks for the back will raise your tail up and give you a rake. I used a set of Chevelle shocks along with my 5 inch lift. Worked nicely and they were less than 15 bucks a piece. You probably need to give some thought to what you want to do. Then you will get more helpful answers when you say you want more suspension travel. BW

not sure of the amp difference. I ran the fuel pump off of the ECU. BW

I did the clutch on my impreza and I found it is easier to remove the engine than to drop the tranny. Dropping the tranny requires removing a bunch of bolts. I find the hardest part of doing a clutch job is getting back together again. That part always takes a me a few hours. So either rent an engine hoist or buy one of a harbor freight specials. Good luck on whatever you do. BW

so I performed a trannyectomy yesterday. The cause of the problem was that two of the springs in the clutch disc had broken free and got lodged in between the pressure plate surface and the top of the pressure plate casing. So as the pressure plate was not able to fully compress and reduce pressure on the clutch. Not sure what caused this damage. BW

maybe we should just let him back and have everyone ignore his comments like they did on that thread. BW

Lucky for us he only has three of em.... :lol: :lol::lol: :lol:

Check craigslist. There is a guy who is selling brand new trannies. I think cyberbackpacker posted about this. BW

I am assisting him with this swap and one thing I have to add is that we are using a EA81 FWD tranny. Are there any issues here that would be different than using a EA82. So it's basically a EA81 FWD 5 spd going into an EA82 chassis. BW

There's getting picked on... and then there's inviting a whooping. If you don't know what you are talking about there's a simple phrase: "oh, I thought I was right." Followed by "My bad. Thanks for helping me get it straight." Saying something stupid and then gets you ridiculed and then banned. BTW I read that gibberish about the Straits of Gibraltar and the Corialis and I was left with a feeling like this . Then I was was sad b/c I realized that I would never get back those two minutes of my life and the calories I burned trying to make sense of what it was said. :-\ Course I can always lose more calories. If you are reading this BGD, either get your facts straight and then speak or be humble when corrected. That gets you a long way in life. BW

Cable is put into the right spot. I have decided to take the tranny off to see what's going on BW

I bought a new clutch cable from the dealer and I installed it. It's doing something really weird. I tried adjusting and it was a bit hard to engage. So I tightened it and now the clutch it working in reverse Basically when I let go of the clutch cable, the clutch slips, so the cable it too tight. When I depress the pedal, the clutch fully engages. I am going back to loosen the clutch cable but anyone know what is going on? BW

might be easier to use a longer shock instead of modding the DL to fit the legacy strut. I used front struts from an outback on my lifted BRAT and then I used shocks from a chevelle http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31761&highlight=chevelle+shocks You might be able to find some shocks that will for with the EA82 set up. BW

I took apart the combination meter/gauge cluster and looked at all of the lights and there is no ECS space. I went to the dealer and there are two lights that go into the cluster. one is a 1.3 watt and one is a 3 watt. I am going to go with a 1.3 watt bulb to make sure I don't damage the new ECU. Thanks for all of the input. BW

The reason I didn't use the normal replacement bulb is b/c this is part of my EJ 18 BRAT swap. BRAT had a carbed feedback system w/o a CEL. OB99W: you are right. I don't think I understand the info about current. I will have to do some research and probably call my brother who is an electrical engineer to pick his brain. My main concern is not messing up the newer ECU that I am getting. I had to wire something in there so that when I get it smogged, the light will turn on and the referee will see that I hooked it up correctly. Otherwise I will fail and then have an illegal swap. If I didn't have to get it smogged I would just leave it as is b/c the car is running fine w/o the light. BW