CNY_Dave

Could a grooved AWD clutch basket cause this?

I did a heater core in an AMC eagle 4WD (or was it an evaporator?). This looks worse.

If you aren't hitting ice, you never will, even if all the bushings are worn, struts are worn, and tires are crap. The 'push' to the side is very small and even a tiny bit of side-side traction will absorb it easily.

If the cable is busted or frozen you have to go underneath and manipulate the arm on the trans.

True- I can plow through 18 inches of powder no sweat, if it's wet snow I can drag the belly just a little bit before I'm high centered, especially since the car 'planes up' on the snow, the snow under the car takes some of the weight, the tires ride up packing the snow under them, then they 'break through'. Time to shovel! Here we get lake snow from the great lakes, often the only term for it is 'greasy'- it's like driving on whipped butter, no matter how much or how little. Subaru with good snows, extreme care required. Lesser tires, fergetabboutit.

Found a lot of water on the rear floor. Apparently rust holes in the fronts of the rear strut towers is a 'thing'. I riveted in some aluminum flashing 'splash guards' from underneath to get me through the winter. Inner fenderwells in the rear are rusted away too. Have to ponder fixing, and if fixing, as was or with some fender clearance for fun.

That would be nice.

On a circuit board that is on the wiper switch itself. They are traces on a circuit board. The switch comes out fairly easily. You could snag a switch cheap and mod it and swap it, if you put in a forester switch you also get the option of having the rear wiper on all the time, not just intermittent. Not useful very often, but once in awhile I use it.

I was pondering how to do this and found some instructions for an older model, took mine off and it was similar enough I could find the trace. You can either cut the trace (it's really a flat copper wire, you have to cut the wire) or desolder the resistor coded '183'.

To me it's not about the ice, it's the dry windshield with all the dirt and salt on it that gets a dry 'screeeee' before the juice hits it. Also, you can get it all nicely soaked before the wiper hits it. Let me find the info again...

Anyone interested in modding so washers work without starting the wipers? I find this to be insanely useful in the winter. I have a mod that works on Gen2 legacies and outbacks, and for a 2005 forester, I think it'll work for a gen 3.

Is that one of the years where the computer has to be trained for the new sensor calibration?

Less likely but possible- small exhaust leak where the pipes meet the head.

Just an anecdotal data point on oil pressure and viscosity. Buddy had a high-miles honda, way over 200k maybe near 300k miles, with the variable valve timing, started throwing an actuation code. The actuator was being told to whatever and wasn't due to the oil pressure being a bit low, or the oil pressure was supposed to trip a sensor, something like that. Shops wanted a ton of money to mess with it, I just told him to go up a grade or 2, forget if he went 5-30 to 10-40 or to 20-50 (or maybe 15-40), but it bumped the oil pressure enough to keep the car going for a few more years until all the suspension parts failed.

Tail wags dog. Film at 11!

I grab my ABS sensors with a pair of channelocks (slip joint pliers, with 5 or so width grooves) right where it goes into the knuckle and grip really tight and work it back and forth while giving it a shot of penetrant now and then. Slowly work it back and forth, takes a lot of gripping force and a lot of twisting force.

That's always a possibility....

Damn. Hot damn. Too fast! DAMN!

You can get a ping like that if the bearing at the top of the strut tower isn't rotating, the strut spring winds up and maybe shifts a little. Of course something left loose could do it too.

My recollection on the H6 automatics gearing concurs but that 4cyl auto legacys and outbacks differed Outback 4 cyl 4.44 Legacy 4 cyl 4.11 H6 outback 4.11

I know the oil-leaking head gaskets on our '06 2.5 are crap. Did they fix that by '08?

The system that sets the code for the solenoid can only look at essentially the resistance of the solenoid circuit- too low a voltage and there's a short, too high and there's an open. Unless there's a wiring problem, a solenoid coil like that (as a sensor or actuator) fails as described, so the advice to change it is good advice.

If an auto putting in the fuse or even coasting in neutral can rule out the transfer clutch. My forester TC has been 'tight' for a very long time, and it feels like stiff steering just as described.

But no matter what headgaskets are doing, how can it pull a vacuum if the radiator cap is functioning normally and nothing from cap out is plugged?