CNY_Dave

80 bucks for 4? Might be worthwhile to ship 'em out east! I need 4 steelies for my wifes forester. Getting mounted snows on steelies from tirerack is so easy, but a few extra bucks... Dave

Well, $220 from tirerack, anyway. Dave

Depends on how many miles on it. Over 150,000 it'd be easy to say do everything (it'll then be good for 350,000), under 50,000 it's easy to say don't do any of it, in-between it's a judgement-call. The dealer used red silicone to seal my timing cover (PO hit a stump and it needed a new oil pan). Dave

Long-shot but... broken bit in the exhaust system that is acting like a 'flapper' valve and slamming shut as soon as any load is put on the engine? Collapsed exhaust in general? Dave

Is it realistic that overfilling a 6qt motor by 1 qt would cause a loss of oil pressure? Even if it foamed a bit... Now, maybe some weird case of hydrolock caused by oil entering the cylinders after shutdown? There was a problem on the '01s where some chain guides would fracture, would cause a bit of noise because the chain would be very loose, but the engine would still run. Dave

I usually poke fun at reviving long-lost threads, but the tech articles are worth the bump! http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml I had severe 'uneven pad material deposition', and have discussed it here, but now I know the proper phrase! "Regardless of pad composition, if both disc and pad are not properly broken in, material transfer between the two materials can take place in a random fashion - resulting is uneven deposits and vibration under braking. Similarly, even if the brakes are properly broken, if, when they are very hot or following a single long stop from high speed, the brakes are kept applied after the vehicle comes to a complete stop it is possible to leave a telltale deposit behind that looks like the outline of a pad. This kind of deposit is called pad imprinting and looks like the pad was inked for printing like a stamp and then set on the disc face. It is possible to see the perfect outline of the pad on the disc. (FIGURE 5) It gets worse. Cast iron is an alloy of iron and silicon in solution interspersed with particles of carbon. At elevated temperatures, inclusions of carbides begin to form in the matrix. In the case of the brake disk, any uneven deposits - standing proud of the disc surface - become hotter than the surrounding metal. Every time that the leading edge of one of the deposits rotates into contact with the pad, the local temperature increases. When this local temperature reaches around 1200 or 1300 degrees F. the cast iron under the deposit begins to transform into cementite (an iron carbide in which three atoms of iron combine with one atom of carbon). Cementite is very hard, very abrasive and is a poor heat sink. If severe use continues the system will enter a self-defeating spiral - the amount and depth of the cementite increases with increasing temperature and so does the brake roughness. Drat!" What's more, later it describes how the cementite forms sub-surface, and cannot be removed by turning the rotor. Dave

Every time I run across an H-6 serp belt tensioner/pulley thread, I chime in with: - The H6 pulley bearings fail a bit earlier than the H4 ones do (seems that way to me, anyway) - The bearings in the pulleys can be inexpensively replaced. I have an '03 H6 with 115Kmiles, and figure I need to replace the bearings pretty soon. Dave

I would suggest posting a general location and see if any of the subaru members would be willing to take a listen. It sounds like anything from a wheel-bearing to an axle that is not properly inserted into the differential. Dave

I remember dirtbike riding on the RR tracks behind the prison, riding all the way out to connecticut once or twice! And midnight headlightless full-moon winter dirtbike rides up over Depot Hill rd, and playing rally-driver up there. Ahhh, good times. Dave

The mechanic that screwed up owns this one. Dave

I would bleed the main (not sure it will do much) then bleed the slave, not sure then bleeding the main again would do anything other than risk sucking in air. Dave

Maybe it would help to clamp the slave cylinder into its rest position, or collapsed as far as possible, then bleed? Whenever you pump the pedal, the slave pistion moves (even if just a little), perhaps moving the air away from the bleeder. Driving the car makes sense- the bubbles are like those stuck to the inside of a glass of soda, shake the glass and the bubbles dislodge. So, whack the MC and lines and slave cyl with a mallet a few times during the process. Dave

near Cortland, but further North and West- out near Ithaca. A bit south of Syracuse. I *used* to live near Hopewell Junction, but of course that doesn't help. I'm not shy about helping folks with some presswork, but there's not a lot of folks around here. Dave

I think you're good to go if you check the following- - Studs - Lug nuts - Lug not holes - Wheel face where it rests on the rotor - Wheel center where it rests on the centering ring - Rotor where the wheel face fits against it - Hub centering ring Dave

Could be the oil level is a bit low. Could be the pickup tube is sucking a bit of air. Could be the oil pressure is a bit low (worn pump or large clearances) and just off idle the RPMs drop a tiny bit and it's just enough to lower the pressure and kick on the light. Dave

You can pull up slightly on the E-brake, as soon as it comes off the stop the DRLs turn off on most models. Dave

Whereabouts in NY? NYC? Dave

Could be they left the driveshaft loose at the factory... Dave

Is this the front, or the rear (rears being the subject of an endwrench article)? The knuckle could be out-of-round, front or rear. Also, was the shop familiar with subaru stuff? There are a time or two in the presswork where you have to be *very* sure you are supporting the right part. Lastly, did you torque the hub nut with the wheel in the air, or (hopefully not) on the ground? That's all I got, in addition to wjhat's been said above. Dave

The drain, even with lots left on, would be small compared to the starter current. If it were to make a difference for that start, or to the batteries life, the battery would already be so far down the path to needing replacement that it's going to fail soon in any case. I wonder if applying a smaller current before the big current might actually be good for a lead-acid battery? There's some interesting chemistry that goes on in those things. Dave

Dave

The dealers are hurting, and some are definitely fishing. Dave

Todays 'don't do this but it's safe': I had a 1983 yamaha Seca 900 (XJ900RK) and there was a chunk of gas tank space that was not usable because a collar extended down into the tank, with a very small bleed-hole at the top of the collar. If you filled up beyond the bottom of the collar, you had to drip the gas in because the bleed hole was so small. I decided to drill the bleed hole larger, so of course the question is- 1) remove tank and purge of fumes 2) do it on the bike, tank with only a little gas in it 3) do it on the bike, filled up all the way I'm too lazy to take the tank off the bike, so obviously I did (3). Dave

If the pan around the plug is smooth, and the bolt head underside is smooth, and you never trap any dirt in there, and if you don't hulk-out on the torque it'll last a loooong time. Dave

My drivers side heater in my '03 is at that point where it works, but is slow to heat up, and only works when I'm sitting in it. If it's not worse than last year I'll live with it, if it starts getting worse I'll be really interested to hear how this works out. Dave