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Everything posted by EVOthis
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So Im assuming this problem wasnt present when before you swapped the engine? Personally I would pull the CEL code, and attempt to correct that problem before you go searching for anything else...As mentioned (shot in the dark from me) you could take a can of 2+2 and with the engine running spary around the intake manifold gaskets/vacuum lines etc etc...and see if you notice an idle fluctuation.....
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all depends which VC gaskets your talking about if its the DOHC early EJ25 I use a tab of gasket sealer on the half moons on the back of the head and where the valve cover meets the cam towers right behind the t-belt cover...besides those I personally havent ever used any sealant on any other Subaru valve cover gaskets Ive done and Ive never had a problem...
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How many miles are on the car? Is the CEL illuminated? Any other work recently done on the vehicle? How about after the car is warmed up and say you stop at a stop sign in gear will it idle normally? Is this a manual or automatic trans? Some things that come to mind off the info youve provided are the IAC valve, EGR , Coolant Temp Sensor....
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You can get those cabin filters on Ebay for under $10.00...They are extremely simple to change yourself...located right behind the glove box its a couple of phillips head screws...Ive pulled cabin filters out at 15k mile intervals that look absolutely atrocious covered with dirt,leaves,dust you name it...Personally I would prob change it once a year except neither of my subarus have them...Just think of it this way that is the air your breathing...AH I just noticed you have a Forester...They are the easiest to change believe me Ive done dozens and dozens of them...glove box should pop right out...Now the ones for the Tribeca are a little bit of a bear...
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You might have to go to the dealer and have them hook up the select monitor to register the new key...I ran into this a while ago on an 07 WRX when a kid fried his ECU and got a replacement complaining of a crank no start....As mentioned you might also want to put a posting over on NASIOC or ClubWRX..
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You could always try pulling the rocker shaft assembly and bleeding the HLA's...Personally that's what I would try to do first because I'm a tight wad..lol...Have you tried like the marvels mystery oil or the sea foam treatment at all?...I had that annoying little tick on my 96 Legacy L EJ22 with 202,000 miles and I tried the Sea foam deal a little while back and Ive barely heard anything in the past few thousand miles...
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Ive seen a couple of them....#1 I Will say some of them look really cool!.. But obviously thats not why people them....As others have mentioned If your just getting a grounding kit to sure up the grounds Personally I would just go around and clean/tighten all your ground connections...Any specific problems your experiencing?
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Yeah I mean you can leave it I guess..but personally I couldnt stand it....lol...thats very odd though..you replaced the thermostat, CTS and radiator and it still does it....you know I would say its like a stuck relay except what are the chances all 4 fan realys would stick let alone at the same time...lol..Im sure you double checked this but all the air is out of the system right?
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SO....IF you start the car and let it get up to operating temperature (according to the gauge) and the fans come on...do they cycle off or no?..have you replaced the thermostat recently? If so did you use an OEM one? Have you done any other cooling system work besides the coolant temp sensor?...How new are the water pump and radiator? any coolant leaks?..Personally from the info youve given it kind of sounds like a stuck thermostat to me...I recently had a similar problem on my 96 Legacy with some aftermarket junk thermostat the previous owner installed and was stuck...The fans would cycle on just like normal and they wouldnt ever shut off....Is the CEL illuminated?
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http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php Check these out I have one of these on my WRX.. I have the stock headers, rotated,catless UP, 3" DP, than the cutout right at the end of the downpipe, High flow cat, 3"midpipe, and a magnaflow muffler...Let me say Im not to sure about your emissions laws and sound pollution laws and whatnot but I can say if you get a cutout and install it right after the downpipe it is pretty cool....you can hear the turbo spool like no other not to mention the whole car shakes when its open And quit as a mouse when you want it...the best of both worlds...
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Not to sure if you have AC or not...im assuming you do...I Believe there are 3 fan relays in the fuse box under the hood (main fan relays #1 and 2 and Sub fan relay #1) and one up under the kick panel above the fuse box in the vehicle on the drivers side next to the FP relay and main relay (sub fan relay #2)...At least that is how they are arranged on my 96 Legacy.....There should be a fuse for the fans, no?
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Dont take a chance on it its not worth sitting on the side of the road when your t-belt skips or worse...bent valves if it happens to be on an interference engine...Believe me the first time I did the T-belt on my 96 Legacy EJ22 I didnt do this step and the belt skipped...repositioned the t-belt and installed the tensioner properly and have been problem free...knock on wood...
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Ive seen bad inner DOJ's cause some odd problems...Ok you described it as a squeal, a clicking, and a grinding noise...which one does it most closley resemble?..Remember it is difficult to diagnoise noises and such online fore we cant touch/hear/see the vehicle so where going off what you say.......I would pop under the vehicle and do a thorough visual and maybe shake down the front end and see if you notice anything there...Thats alot of miles so really you cant kind of rule anything out....
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these cars can throw IAC codes for a carboned up throttle body..You could try giving the TB a good cleaning...Also obviously as mentioned clean the IAC and take some 2+2 and spray it around the vacuum lines with the vehicle running to check for vacuum leaks...Which IAC code is it? How many miles are on the vehicle?