94Loyale

Well, normally I like to lift my vehicles rather than drop them. But in this case, I think the car will look pretty sharp. I have a 99 Outback wagon with a really nice set of 17's on it and lower profile tires. If I'm understanding right, guys usually put Outback shocks on normal Lego's to lift them correct? Like an inch and a half or so I heard. So would I be able to swap Lego shocks on my Outback to drop it some? I think the car would look real sharp like that. What do you guys think, is it as easy as it seems?

Another issue about soldering o2 sensor wires is having the correct solder. O2 sensor wires are made of stainless steel. If you are going to do it, just make sure you have very good wire to wire contact. Because if you use solder to partially fill in a joint, it's going to affect the voltage.

Could be, I'm thinking the reason these failed could be from sitting. They must have just ripped, because they really are not making any indication that they are bad. I'm thinking from sitting for a year and a half or so, the boot dry rotted some, and may have ripped on the drive home or something. I just picked this unit up last friday. Maybe it's early enough that I can get away with regreasing and rebooting. I'll check for any metal shards coming out of the boot. Thanks guys!

Gary, that's a great idea, I'll have to look into that option too. How are these newer cars to replace the axles on? Pretty easy like the old ones?

Thanks for the responses guys, MWE was the way to go on the older subes too. So I'll be checking them out today. Odd, if I hadn't seen the boots ripped open, I would have had no idea. Car doesn't act up, or make any abnormal noises. I'd figure it's just because the inner boots are ripped up. I know the outers will make some noise.

Hey guys, this is my first newer generation Subaru. I've had 4 previous EA82 wagons before this. Decided to upgrade to something a little more reliable. I just picked up a 99 Outback with an EJ22 swap. The car is damn near perfect. From sitting for about a year and a half, the cam cover gaskets were leaking a little. So I got under there tonight and changed them, no problem. However, while I was down there, I noticed that the inner boots on both my front axles are ripped very bad. I'm going to replace them, but my questions stems from owning the older wagons. When getting axles for the old wagons from chain auto stores (advanced, auto zone), they would always fail very early, or be junk right out of the box. I'm not sure if it's the same story with the newer subarus. When I'm looking to get axles for this car, where would you guys get them from? And I'd imagine they are pretty straight forward to do, I've done a few axles before. But any tips are more than welcome. Thank you.

OB99W, that is pretty cool, I did not know that. Thank you for the information!

If the TPS is adjusted wrong, its going to give you a high idle, and probably surging. Atleast on other cars it is that way. If you can get a volt meter, read the voltage on the TPS. At idle, adjust the TPS until the voltage is .58. As I said, this is true on other vehicles, I'm new to the newer gen sube's myself. The correct TPS voltage is pretty universal no matter what you are working on.

Well, here is another thing to think about. If he did all that work to the cooling system, and didn't bleed it properly, it's going to burn up coolant all day. Believe me,haha, I've had enough cooling adventures with my wagons. It may not heat up while idling, but if you take it for a ride and it gets real hot and comes back down, this could be the issue. EA82's are a *************** to bleed. I'm not saying it isn't leaking somewhere, but this could be it too. If you have access to one, pressure test the cooling system, that will tell you whats going on most of the time.

Yes, good call on the thermostat too. I've run mine without one before, and the temp needle barely moves from the bottom.

Just an idea, the heater not blowing hot air isn't necessarily the heater core. On 2 of my wagons the cable that goes from the cold/hot selector on the dash became unhooked down at the heater box under the dash. Could be as simple as that, something to think about.

No problem! That second piece, I just ran out and looked at my wagon, and the cap part is busted off of mine. It still functions correctly....whatever it's function is,lol. I'm sure someone will chime in on that piece.

Well the first picture, if your talking about the metal units that are on your fuel lines, are fuel pressure dampers. The second one...I've always wondered about that thing on my wagons too Sorry

Definitely contact McBrat, he does really nice work, and can make you almost anything you need. I'm sure he'll post once he see's this thread.

I wasn't talking external leaks, I mean the O-ring seal things for the lifters and all. And man do I wish I had a lift...but I don't even have a garage to work in :-\

wow..how the hell did you find one up here with that low of mileage!? I'm suprised I didn't spot it first Despite the low mileage though, the seals and o-rings are still old. My 94 Loyale ticks on occasion, it has around 130k on it or something. If it stopped, I would be happy, until it comes back,lol. Since you don't have high mileage, I would just say the seals and all are leaking due to age.

It happens, believe me. All of my subarus have done it from time to time. All higher mileage. Mine will tick for a little while, then if you bring the r's up it will stop and not do it for a while. Then it will just start ticking again at some random time. It's just part of life with an old subaru.

"20 years later and it's still giving back to you" That's a subaru It might give you back hell sometimes, but it's still giving...

Looks pretty damn cool to me, very nice!

Yeah, I think the old beetle rims are 4x130, something like that.

I second what Nipper had to say. No problems while cold but spark issues when hot is a classic bad coil symptom. I'm not saying that's it for sure, but they usually act up when hot.

I still think you probably have air in the system. My car did the same thing for a while, they need to be bled, or they will keep overheating. Put your thermostat back in, fill it up, bleed the air out, and you should be good to go.

Yeah, these things are bad with air in the system. Park it up hill, fill it up, burp all the coolant lines you can and keep adding coolant as it goes down. When you can't get anymore air out of it by hand, then start the car with the rad. cap off and run it till no more air bubbles out. Try and run it till the thermostat opens (you should definately put that back in), and keep topping off the coolant. When no more air comes out, replace the rad. cap, and fill the overflow to the appropriate level. Then you shouldn't have anymore problems...if air in the system was the problem

Jerry, that is very cool. Well, go to the junkyard, and bring a lugnut with you to check the threads!

Wow...I'm really impressed, that looks awesome in there. Very nice work!