mountaingoatgruff

i just want to state a few things for the record: while i do enjoy my subaru - i liked my 01 ram more. i miss my truck and i only sold my truck to reduce my personal carbon footprint. my interest in hho technology is for that same purpose. i respect that not everyone feels the same way that i do but the fact is that as automotive enthusiasts, the very things we love are choking us now and will continue to degrade our planet to the point that our children will suffer for it, no if's and's or butt's - they will suffer! i cannot in clear conscience continue to love that which is killing those i love and so i am looking into hho to hopefully be able to do something that will help. this is not a financial interest for me, i'm not just trying to save a few buck on gas. its an issue of moral integrity in light of what we as responsible adults owe our posterity. if it doesn't work i'm willing to give up cars altogether to save the future of humanity and our planet, are you? for those who scoff: if this subject makes you laugh or if you don't believe global warming is a "big deal" than you are downright stupid and i'm not sorry for saying so. only you can educate yourself so i challenge you to actually look into the truth behind the propaganda campaign that disputes global warming.

that's the ticket - they don't print those instructions for nuthin, folks. as far as how long they last, my brother had a k&n fipk (cold air intake kit) on his 98 ram's 360 for 7years before he finally decided to get a new filter for it just cuz he didn't like how the clamp had dug into the rubber on the neck. also, my dad has had a drop-in style k&n in his 96 toyota corolla commuter for 3years with no problems yet - and i doubt he's cleaned & recharged it more than a few times in that period. also, he just put one on his new-to-him 94 ford f350's 7.2 turbo diesel. you guys can gripe about k&n's all you want, almost every vehicle (from little 1.5 hondas to 4 different subarus to cummins/int'l diesels) between my 2 brothers, my father and i has had a k&n and none of us have ever had problems in years of running them. the proof is in the pudding, right?

i won't buy one - i'm already getting ready to try to build one, but i won't buy one.

first off, i'm doubtful that you'll get far running on hose water, the mineral and possible chlorine content will contaminate your cell(s). every proper electrolyser build i've seen uses distilled water which drasticly increses your cost until you build/buy a water distilling setup, then you're still most likely using petro-based energy in some form to distill your water and certainly to build/maintain the water still. then you also have to maintain the electrolyser, of course. i'm simply advocating a simpler/cheaper/less consumptive way of doing this, otherwise it defeats the point. the point of the technology is not so you can drive your hotrod more or so individuals can save cash in any timeframe. the point of any alternative fuel technology is to help humanity wean itself off oil and to end the destruction to our environment. our individualist mentalities are part of what's got us in this mess to begin with. btw - i can WALK to the pastures out here! that's still free, remember? and if i'm feeling lazy i'll ride my bike.

what's the point after all that? you're going to spend so much to do make this idea happen that you wont even make it back in increased mpg! burning hydrogen will drive performance down so building an hho hotrod system is an utter waste of time and resources - it defeats the purpose of an hho system in the first place. i would even go so far as to say that if you did build this thing, it would probably consume more oil based products and energy through building, driving and maintaining it than just driving on gasoline! something to keep in mind - anybody that's serious about kicking our oil habit and reverting to a sustainable energy economy needs to realize that performance automobiles need to be the first thing to go. ...my new hobby is going to be COWTIPPING!!

i glanced over my 84 fsm and it shows that for a 49-state car you'd only have a factory ECC system (eclectronicly controlled carb, or feedback carb) if you've got a 2wd car. hitachi and carter setups use the same sensors, but even then you don't have much: thermosensor (for gauge, mounted in intake) oxygen sensor (for ecc, in y-pipe of course) vehicle speed sensor (for ecc, mounted in speedo) rev sensor (for ecc, wired into coil - not sure where its located) there's some thermal and vacuum switches that are included in the system, the best thing to do is get ahold of a schematic so you can see everything at once. if i had a scanner i could upload those pages, but i don't. do you know if its a hitachi or carter carb? 2wd?

when mine had a hitachi 2bbl i think the only "sensor" it had was the temp sensor for the gauge that's mounted in the intake manifold. other than that there's the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge (mounted on bottom of oil pump, if you have an idiot light its just a switch on the side) and temp switch for rad fan (mounted in rad) but those aren't actually sensors. its a carb'ed engine...means there's no sensors needed.

i read some more and it seems this has worked fine for others. i'm still confused about why the different pickup pattern wouldn't cause the ecu to malfunction or throw a code. are they designed to work with either cam sprocket or something? good suggestion, i didn't think to check that they could be swapped - too worried about the cam sensor issue i guess. that'll give me an opportunity to properly clean it, too. when i was having trouble with the egr solenoid on my spfi ea81 GD and Gloyale suggested that i eliminate the solenoid by replacing it with a resistor. i found a good soleniod so i didn't have to but since the ej22 has no egr could i use that trick here or is there another way the ecu will be checking that the egr is functioning? i can tell the dude that owns the car he needs another intake so he can have the egr but i'm sure he'll say he doesn't want to pay for that and he'll just ignore it when his cel comes on. he's a friend-of-a-friend that is pretty much a tightwad, i'm trying to help our mutual friend. it won't really matter until he goes to smog it and in ca you fail immediately if your cel is on. then its anybody's guess what he'll say/do. seems i'll be headed to the jy to find an egr equipped intake - maybe i can take it out of what he gives me for other parts if there's enough left over then i'll just hide the other intake.

i know you said you'll have the dealer do it but... i'm assuming by stock jack you mean the scissor jack the car is equipped with for emergency tire changes. if that's the case - and even if its not - it should be noted that working on a car supported by a scissor jack is NOT SAFE! under no circumstances should that type of jack be used for anything but emergency tire changes. if you don't have a floor jack rated for your vehicle's weight and jackstands to put it on after lifting it you're not equipped to safely work on your vehicle while doing anything that requires lifting it up in any way. i'm not trying to brow beat anyone and there's who-knows-how-many idiots that get away with it all the time, but this one is serious business. scissor jacks tip way too easily and you can pick up a little floor jack and jackstand set for less than it costs to even think about calling a doctor anymore.

i just pulled each cam sprocket and closely compared them. they're the same size, same tooth count, same width and the ej25 sprocket fits nicely over the ej22 cam snout. so it seems to me i should be able to put the ej25 cam position sensor and accompanying sprocket on the ej22. only question is whether this will fool the computer into running the ej22 correctly or if it will reject it for some reason or if this setup will cause other issues. the only discrepancy i noticed was that the rear edge of the ej25 sprocket sits out almost 1/32" further from the block than the ej22's but it should be fine cuz the ej22 belt was off the back edge of the cam sprockets by more than that. i'm just wondering now if i shouldn't run both ej25 intake sprockets on the ej22 just for balancing's sake. the ej25 sprockets are composite and much lighter so i think i'll stick both of them in there, makes sense to me at least. i know its a nice holiday weekend and everyone's probably out enjoying themselves like i should be so when ever someone gets a chance i could really use some input if its out there... edit: i've read some previous threads about swapping ej22's into ej25 cars and nobody mentions anything about the cam sprockets. am i barking up a fallen tree here?

i've got both intakes on the bench and i've got the ej25's harness wired onto the ej22 manifold. the wiring for the injectors, temp sensors, oil pressure unit, knock sensor and purge solenoid are all the same, no problems there. here's the stuff that's not the same: iacv are both three wires and each set has the same colors so it should be okay to simply swap connectors there, we'll see. crank pos sensor has a 3wire connector on ej22, but 3rd wire looks like its just shielding so i should be able to eliminate it and swap ej25's 2wire connector onto sensor, we'll see here too. ej22 has a 4wire tps and ej25 is a 3wire but i've just swapped the entire ej25 tb onto the ej22 manifold, plugging the extra two vac ports used by the ej25's egr (ej22 has no egr). i also swapped the ej25 coil onto the ej22 manifold, since they're both female towers it's easier than cutting and soldering the ej25 connector onto the ej22 coil. only thing is i had to sandwich a couple plain m6 washers between the manifold and coil on each bolt, the ej25 coil bottoms out on the manifold and also the bolts are too long - the washers take care of both problems. ej22 has no egr, so i have no egr solenoid to plug the ej25 harness into. i guess i'll be forced to eliminate the egr solenoid this time... my only real concern is with the cam position sensor and cam sprocket. the ej25 sensor has the same body as the ej22 and it bolts right up. problem is the patterns on the cam sprockets are different. the ej25 dohc has a 3-1-1-1 pattern while the ej22 sohc has a 3-1-2-1 pattern. the sprockets look to be the same diameter - i haven't checked fitment beyond that cuz i don't want to pull the t-belts till i have the stuff to put it back together. has anyone ever put an dohc ej25 sprocket on an ej22 to fix this issue? are the shafts, keyslots, tooth count, etc. the same? i should be getting the t-belt and all for the ej22 later this week and i hope to have it done this weekend. if nobody can say for certain whether the ej25 cam sprocket will fit on the ej22 cam and solve the signal pattern issue then i'll have pulled them apart to check by then.

you only need to use a vac pump to check the diaphragm if you're iffy about sucking on the hose, but that's how i check them. it doesn't tell you how much pressure is required to actuate the thing but it sure tells you if its ruptured and that's the likely scenario. if you can suck on the line and verify the diaphragm won't move its ruptured and needs to be fixed/replaced. i have a good and a bad one on a shelf in the garage and i can move the good one, the bad one is obvious. you should NEVER run broken plugs but i figured that was common sense to most folks that know what kinda plugs we're talking about and it doesn't sound like you were running it anyhow. dumb question of the day: has anyone ever made an adapter to use an older side-by-side 2bbl carb on an ea81 engine? like a simple, reliable, cheap, old 3stud stromberg 2bbl or something? or maybe a big ol' holley 1bbl? i imagine you could put a holley 1bbl on an spfi intake with a simple adapter and have a simple reliable carb on a better manifold too.

wow, that's an old trick! i'm talking to jerry right now about getting a kit for the swap. from what i've read i'd need: d/r 5speed transmission jerry's crossmember kit ea82 flywheel modified for ea81 crank bolts new clutch set need to have my driveshaft sortened i'd also replace the rear seal, tranny seals, and tranny mounts is this all of it for putting a d/r 5speed into a hatch? what about shifters and linkage? jerry's kit lets you use the 4speed's d/r lever but what about the gear shifter? how much of the linkage, etc. do you need? can i use any ea82 flywheel? will the ea81 starter work? i know there's tons of threads/posts but my son is screaming for attention and i don't have time to search thoroughly. if we could go over this yet again i'd appreciate it cuz i really need to know everything that i'd have to spend money on (or that i'd want to, being as anal as i am) before i start spending anything. btw, my car has no lift and i don't plan on adding that for a long while but down the road i will for sure, if that changes anything. thanks guys

84 hatch w/ spfi'ed ea81 and (obviously) d/r 4speed i would really like to put a d/r 5speed in there to compliment the spfi but unless someone in cen-cal can practically give me a d/r 5speed, other financial demands won't permit me to for now. so i need to fix my 4speed or replace it with another until i can eventually swap in a 5. here's the situation: when i back out of my driveway then put the clutch in the tranny sounds like its winding down or something. its hard to describe but just as the clutch disengages the tranny makes a rather loud, continuous sound - maybe the diff or tranny internals. its not a grinding or clanking, just sounds like noisy gears spinning together if that makes sense. then, when i put it in first and take off, there's a definite clunk that speeds up with vehicle speed and is noticeable until its drowned out by other noise. maybe clunk is too harsh, its like a click almost or in between click and clunk. its not cv's - i replaced both front axles a couple months ago and adjusted the clutch cable a few weeks ago. the sound was there before i worked on it and its coming from the tranny area. the front axle stub seals are both far beyond gone and i'd bet the thing was run dry for a long time before i got it, and that was in tuolumne county (mountainous). i keep it topped off with gear oil now but it doesn't help much and man that thing just pisses it right out. i'm thinking the front diff is toast or maybe the whole tranny so i don't wanna waste new seals and all on it if it is. all this is in 2wd, of course. i haven't ever driven the hatch in 4wd yet, mostly cuz there's nowhere to play around here but also cuz i'm kinda scared it won't work. the tranny shifts through all the gears just fine with very little slop and aside from these noises it drives fine. the d/r shifter moves fine, too. its been years since my last subaru but i don't remember my old 83 wagon with same engine/tranny making this much noise. this is going to be my dd as soon as its smogged and since i absolutely can't be stranded before work i need it reliable. seems like i should go snag the d/r 4speed at the local pick-n-pull and hope for the best...any opinions/suggestions? is there some mix of bat dung and albumen or something that will help - like a scotty's for the diff?

check the advance diapragm of the dist by putting some fresh rubber hose on it then seeing of it moves as you apply vac. if it won't move then its probably toast. also, have you made sure there's no vac leaks elsewhere?

the sources i've read say to use 316L-grade stainless steel for two reasons: 1- 316L grade ss contains the proper amounts of nickel and molybdenum to actually make it a catalyst in electrolysis, helping the caustic potash/distilled water electrolyte to do it's job. 2- soft metals such as aluminum and copper are succeptible to corrosion under the operating conditions of a properly built high efficiency electrolyser. also, i don't think aluminum is as conductive as ss, is it? platinum makes the best cathodes and anodes for electrolysis, but its simply too expensive.

in theory, an hho producing electrolyser with one cell uses about 10% of the current you put in to create hho, and the remaining current goes to heating the plates (which in turn creates water vapor and introduces that into your intake, so be careful). to increase the efficiency of the electrolyser, you add more cells. cells can be more plates in the same container so long as your electrolyte doesn't contact between cells. you have to break in the plates by using distilled water in the cell and leave it on until a white coating forms on the plates, then rinse (not wash) the chamber and replace the electrolyte with distilled water and 25-30% potassium hydroxide (KOH, available in pellet form) by vol. the electrolyte is consumed in the process so there's your energy in - the adding of more electrolyte. its not a free energy or perpetual energy machine cuz your adding energy in the form of water. water contains latent energy and therefore is an eneregy source regardless of the scientific community's opinion. how many of those idiots say global warming isn't happening!?! if your water is getting nasty, it may be cuz the baking soda is breaking down. baking soda is sodium hydrogen bicarbonate (NaHCO3) and as it breaks down it may it may be introducing carbon into the electrolyser - and carbon is bad, mmkay? use potassium hydroxide and it may clear things up, but at least avoid carbon. and remember, KOH will absorb carbon from air so keep it sealed. also, acrylic containers are better than pvc - higher temp resistance, stronger, and pvc leeches chemicals into your electrolyte, or whatever you put in it for that matter. and one more thing -hho gas is not just highly flamable, its explosive. it burns 1000x's faster than gas and creates such pressure once ignited that you'll very likely go deaf if you allow it to explode near you. every hho system needs to use a bubbler and a one way valve to limit the hazard of explosion in the chamber, and bothe the bubbler and chamber should have blow out systems in place. be careful!! i'm working on a high voltage system (110vac converted to a pulsed 150vdc current by diodes) with mutiple cells in single containers according to bob boyce's designs. i'm still building and waiting for my stainless plate stock to come in. i'm using 316L in 16gauge.

even at $4/gal, that's still a relatively cheap energy source. its not comparatively cheap based on earlier prices, but oil is such a dense energy that $4 can buy you enough energy to do what it would otherwise take you hours and hours of labor to do. the problem is, oil is still cheap enough that the world won't refuse it. my wife and i are making a concerned effort to learn how to do these things and i belong to a group of people helping each other towards that goal. people like us are all over the us and we welcome and encourage anybody to join us. the gov't will watch you starve and they won't regret it for a second. for this and other atrocities, i put the current us gov't on par with many of the worst regimes in history.

hho boosters are not the answer, they're not even really helpful at this point. the world has likely reached peak oil production and if it hasn't it will in the next decade - two at the most. according to current economic and population growth, we need to more that double oil production by 30 years from now but we're VERY unlikely to see steady production even at current levels that long. hho boosters are a distracting band-aid. the only real good that hho boosters can do is to lead the way for development of fully hho powered systems, which in turn will require a totally new design of internal combustion engine to overcome current flaws - probably one in which entire cylinders move instead of just pistons. the scientific community goes on and on about how "you can't get more energy out than you put in" and "there's no such thing as free energy" but i disagree. plant a seed, walk away, and if it grows you've proved them wrong. [insert your god of choice here] has designed the world in a way that presents all kinds and forms of latent energy that nature will process for us and they're just waiting to be used. the only problem is we can't see it cuz we're looking through "oil lenses" for a cheap oil substitute. this topic makes for an entertaining read on an auto enthusiast website, but seriously folks - what will you do when the oil is gone? the sad truth is that billions of us will simply starve and die. without the petroleum economy we enjoy now, the world cannot feed the 7billion+ people on it. humanity is the victim of the monster created by their own successes. do you have a source to demonstrate/prove that? that's just as nieve as saying "if doctors could heal us for less money, health insurance would be cheaper." gimme a break, they sell oil cuz that's what makes money - its that simple! even if you could use pig&%#@ to run your car, they'd still be selling oil and they'd start designing cars so they can't be run on pig&%#@ anymore. see above post. making diesel requires more crude oil for the same amount of end product. also, correct me if i'm wrong but diesel creates more pollution. where's the logic in that?

aww, you mean k&n style filters aren't the bandwagon choice? gosh, now i have to redo my engine bay again... btw, more and more truckers are beginning to use hho boosters... you know what that means, folks!

that is a real nice hatch! are the enkies 13's? i really wanted one that dark blue color or even better one in the dark olive color/tan int but its slim pickins around here so i settled on a white one. i think they still make paint these days, though...

you'll get lots of comments about the troubles caused by the oil getting all over the maf. i have a k&n on my spfi'ed ea81 hatch and though it hasn't been there long i have had no troubles. i plan on cleaning the maf regularly to avoid any issues, seems simple enough to me. i can't comment on power/mpg increase - did too much else at the same time.

what's with nor*cal in the thread title? it says oregon. i can't make that date anyhow.

i called my dad this morning and let's just say i won't be taking it to him to have the refrigerant recovered. i nagged him enough that he doesn't put crap in storm drains anymore, but i haven't worked with him much in the last few years. you just can't convince everybody. i think we're just going to leave the system alone for now. it works, we just wanted it to work better on particularly hot days for our son's sake. we'll just have to start the car early in those situations that require it.

you guys didn't answer my question - how does one recover the refrigerant? i'm not sure if my dad has that stuff but he has everything else so i don't see why he wouldn't. i'll call him in the morning to make sure but we didn't release any 134a while working on it the other day and if we positively can't recover it ourselves i'll consider taking it in. i haven't taken a car to a "professional" for anything but smog checks and alignments in my whole life and i don't want to start now. i've worked in a few dealership service dept's as a porter and as a lube tech a couple times. i've watched countless "professionals" in multiple locations hack folks' cars over and over so i avoid "professionals" as much as possible. as far as the epa regulations are concerned - thanks for pointing that out. feel free to inform/scold me in these types of situations, cuz i didn't know it was straight illegal. i don't claim to be anything above a backyard mechanic (nor do i think there's anything wrong with that) and i'm not above admitting when i do need to learn more before proceeding. jeeze, this is why i don't mess with a/c's!