Caboobaroo

Any 3-door EA82 coupes. I need in the tanish/grey RX interior color, the piece that goes over the driver side rear wheel well which also has a grating for the speaker which sits under it. Also, a passenger side rear quarter glass for the same car, and a driver side tail light. Oh and a slim EA81 AC fan....

As for the bolt difference on the control arm, Calebz is right. All the 5-lug conversions I've done, I've had to drill out the hole with a 1/2" drillbit, then mount the control arm in there using the original bolt for the EA82 control arm but with washers on either side on the outside of the control arm, then welding them in place at the bottom of the hole. Works great and the wagon I've done it on prior to my RX, has taken a few trips from Wyoming to Oregon, a couple rallycrosses, and has been done for about 2 1/2 years now.

Thats a stock RX bodykit... So you're saying that any RX with that bodykit, sedan or 3-door, is "ricey" with it stock from the factory? Lookin good my friend but yes, it needs some slightly larger rims under it.

any EA82 I believe....

I got one from an EA82 turbosedan.....

there's a few things that could eat up one side. Check for tightness of engine/tranny mounts, check for deteriorated mounts, and check for play in the tranny as far as side to side movement at the tailshaft

it should go about 1/4 to 1/2 down without the car running and will be very stiff. If it goes to the floor, that means you have air/water in the lines and they need to be bled. Another thing a lot of auto owners don't know is that the brake fluid should be changed every other year to keep the yellowish clear look to it. If not, it'll get water in the system, make the brakes spongy, and will turn the brake fluid more brown. It will also deteriorate the metal brake lines and wheel cylinder/calipers if not replaced with new fluid. Cheaper to do it once every couple years then have to go through and replace rusted brake lines, frozen calipers and wheel cylinders.

pics would help dearly my friend. I have like, a million intakes from NA MPFIs and turbo MPFIs so I can help ID something if need be, without you pulling it all apart on your car.

Who moved this to the "transplant" forum? He's taking an engine from one Subaru and putting it into another. the Historic forum is the perfect place for this.....

<-- is freaking out OMG dude!!! I've loved thatc ar since I first saw pics of it when Corky owned it. Glad to see it finally running and driving. Also glad to see that the new owner is going to be keeping this car no matter what (I hope). Its soooo hawt!

Lookin hawt my friend! Welcome to the 5-lug group. I myself have also gone basically the same route as you did but my front end stuff was off of a '95 Imp wagon. Did you change out the tophats for the stock EA82 tophats? Now you can go ahead and do major upgrades to the brakes as far as aftermarket parts. Enjoy the various wheel combos you can use now!

awww how cute! Still smaller then my Bronco:grin: But you get waaaaay better gas mileage then my 351M:rolleyes: Looks good buddy, keep up the good work! It'll be worth losing 15 pounds of water weight eventually. Or you'll just die of dehydration...

Patrick my friend, I have just the thing for you. On ebay, if you search for "Nissan 280ZX turbo injector" usually, you'll come up with a couple finds. ONe of them however, sells brand new, set of 6 injectors. A couple months ago, I sent him a message asking him if he would be willing to do sets of 4 since they are a direct swap in for our Subarus. He said he could! Including shipping, I believe they came out to roughly $140 clams for 4 injectors. His ebay name is Dr. Injector. Here's the thread I made when I found them... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58559&highlight=Nissan+280ZX+turbo+injectors Good luck my friend!

is it still in the car? You might want to get a flush kit which would allow you to run the car and then flush the coolant system through one of the heater hoses. If its not in the car, your best bet might be a radiator shop.

There is no difference in the tanks for any EA82 wagon/sedan/coupe. I had to replace the gastank in my RX since the junkyard had punched a hole in it, and I used one from a carb'd wagon. Had no issues.

ok for cost wise, you're looking at about 200 bucks for everything, maybe less. Go to Schucks/Checker/Kragens cause they should have the Fel-Pro gaskets, at least my Checker in Laramie did. 80k miles eh? Reseal it since thats pretty low mileage for that engine and probably doesn't have too many things worn out on it. I agree with GD on the timing belt covers, PITA. I run the backs to help deflect any debris but the fornts I leave off usually but I do like to put them on when I go to shows, which will be in like 10 years when my RX is done:rolleyes:

ouch man. Get it fixed by the Redrocks meet on the 13th or else you will die! Hopefully nothing like that happens to my RX on the way down there. That would sux0r!

too bad you're not closer to me. I just did a couple EA81s recently and one was a feedback carb. Did you swap intakes from the old engine to the new one? If not, you're in a world of hurt cause the computer for the feedback carb is going to go nuts and it won't run right. I swapped intakes from the old engine (bad rod bearing) to a 83k EA81 which had a regular Hitachi on it. Runs like a champ! Let me know if you need pics and "Where does this &^%$&^^%&^ go???" answered and I'll be all ears;)

+1 There is a fuse located on the firewall, can't remember which side, but I do believe it doesn't have anything to do with the tranny......

Depths is right!

There's another fellow here on the USMB with an EJ22'd bug. Its only rwd too but he says it plain moves. I believe his board name is "Nug"

Yes they are! In a week I'll be doing them again with more compression:banana:

Not yet. I'm dropping the engine back in tomorrow after I get off of work but after I take it down and clean it real good at the carwash. Should be running and driving by the end of the week:headbang:

I just took out the back mounting stud on the uppipe and welded it back about 1/2" from the original location. I used the bottom of the turbo as a jig so I could tack weld it in place, took off the turbo and gave it hell. Then went back over it and cleaned it up wih a grinder. If you need some pics on how some of us are running our plumbing, here's the main idea for the TD04, WRX TMIC and spyder intake. This is the most common... http://community.webshots.com/photo/302403464/2381973490067339125eJPOCR http://community.webshots.com/photo/302403464/2832625290067339125qbmuhz

but you put enough power through any FT4wd box and it'll break the tires loose regardless. Trust me, I know from experience and will know again in about a week:clap: The part time 4wd boxes will work in rwd plenty fine with the stock hp rating these engines have. HOWEVER, once you start adding any sort of power in front of these gearboxes, you'll find out quick, that they don't handle it very well, especially in rwd. Granted, I had a FE high compression EA71 in my '78 Brat and it was rwd, I never had any problems with it. I did only drive it for about 2 months with this configuration before the alternator died and I tore into it.