Caboobaroo

I didn't go into the yard and verify but I saw their inventory list and it wasn't on there anymore. I could make an adventure out of going to the yard today though....

Was there last weekend and unfortunately the car is gone. A real shame too as it was fairly straight with very minor rust in one fender.

About to go out and drink a beer with my silver "RX" coupe. Bought it for $100 in Wyoming as a FWD 3AT, converted it to a RX dual range 5-speed, 5-lug conversion, different engine, STi front seats, LSD rear end, and so much more. Then moved to Washington and drove it like I stole it. Finally has been stripped after a failed EJ22t swap to a shell. Nothing is really left except a black RX hatch with some rust, some glass and some nasty RX interior. Here's the webshots album of it when I first bought it to almost now. http://rides.webshots.com/album/555167621jgSQVh So much time, sweat, tears and blood were shed during the build of this car. Sad to see her leave but it was a good run....

I've seen a few that over time, creep coolant from the head gaskets externally but the issue with the head gaskets, is they like to blow internally. How often do you change the coolant? Every 30k or two years? If you haven't breeched the head gasket into the combustion chamber, then continue with the recommended service and it might last quite awhile.

Then you know Dan over across the street at U.S. Tire. He mentioned that a Subaru shop opened up next door when I was down last.

Just got a new set of snow tires on the Outback so we will be there in "her" car.

I have a 2004 Outback H6 sedan and the rear seats do not fold down, just a small pass through. Don't know if that helps at all.

Ehhhh not all... Earlier EA82 bodies have a smaller transmission tunnel and so the auto crossmember is shorter. Found that out when I went to bolt in the XT6 rear crossmember in a '87 coupe.

I've seen some H6s that have been run low on oil and it can be bad. Had one that the plastic had broken off of a couple of the timing chain guides and the chains ate into the aluminum on the guides. #5 piston got oil starved and it ended up coming off of the connecting rod which broke the cylinder wall. Not pretty once I got into it, thats for sure.

Make sure the clutch is the proper style for the transmission. 2004 WRXs still had a pull style clutch where the '95 you have should be a push style clutch. You could always find air suspension from a first gen Legacy and then you won't have to modify the area where it slides over the knuckle. The XT6 struts are wider then the EJ struts and the XT6 struts won't allow for the camber adjustment bolt that the EJs use.

If you're swapping just the long block (no intake and accessories), I'm pretty sure you want the newer EZ30 with AVCS seeing as the TriBeCa should have it. The information you posted is correct but in Japan hence the weird year changes. You will want to find a '05 and up EZ30 as the earlier ones are slightly different.

Usually on tough axles, I use a back and forth method using an air hammer and the axle nut after using some penetrant on it (been using Zep 45). Hasn't failed me yet! *knocks on wood*

I personally point it forwards. Figure that's the easiest direction for air to go as I'm filling it.

Ceck for vacuum leaks too. The old, hardened rubber lines for the boost control solenoids can crack which will let you run more boost pressure depending on which one it is. Also, the rubber turbo boot can crack, letting in unmetered air while accelerating but can seal back up decent enough for it to run good at idle. Easiest thing to do would be to grab a can of brake clean and while it's idling, spray it around all the rubber vacuum lines, the rubber couplers between the MAF and the throttle body, base of throttle body, and the intake gaskets. When you find a leak, the idle will raise and then drop back down.

Super easy to do with just hand tools really. If you need any help, shoot me a PM and if you're close, I could help out.

Buying a car from a private party.... ALways have money in hand to purchase the car. If you do not give them money the day you look at it or even a deposit, just walk away. Sounds like he's shady and was looking for the best price. Don't worry about it, just take it as it is.

Didn't realize it was the wagon. For some reason I was looking for a sedan or a coupe. You can replace just one caliper but if it's been sitting awhile, I would want to do both.

If it still feels tight, try turning the caliper piston back in, then pump the pedal back up.

Can you get some pics of the GL-10 for me? They do have electrical gremlins with the digidash and overcharging that blows a transistor or something. Been awhile since I messed with one...

I plan on being there for this once again. Haven't been able to make it for the last few years due to work or a broken Subaru.

I modified a set of rear backing plates for a '02-'05 Impreza/WRX to bolt onto my XT6. Had to drill one hole and modify two others which was fairly easy once I got the backing plate centered on the trailing arm. After that, all the factory parking brake hardware went on, WRX caliper and rotor with the XT6 hub. I also used a set of rear brake hoses from a '00 Outback as they run a similar 3 piece brake line setup like our cars. Soft line from the hardline on the body to the hardline on the suspension, then another soft line from the hardline on the suspension to the caliper.

I'm currently working on the rear setup but '08 and newer Impreza chassis use a similar multilink rear suspension like the Legacys since 2000. I have found that the lower hole in the factory WRX shock for the rear is the same size as the EA82 bolt so no modification needed there. I'm still waiting for a couple bits to arrive before I assemble them and install them into the XT6:brow:

I'm doing something similar with my'04 Outback sedan... Planning on making it a Legacy Blitzen6:headbang: Good luck with the conversion. I've found quite a few websites that have JDM parts for sale from the Bilsteins to exterior parts. One to check out would be http://www.japanparts.com

I would replace the belt personally. Then keep the old belt for a backup:D The crank pulley is 3.0 specific as it also has an O-ring in the front to prevent oil from coming out (remember, the chains directly behind it are flinging oil all over). The O-ring is behind a small plate which hides the main pulley bolt. IIRC, there's either 3 or 4 bolts that hold the plate on, 10mm heads I believe.

Bump. Someone probably wants these and I know how hard it is to find the original Subaru keys for the glovebox:brow: