Caboobaroo

Good luck! It's not going to be an easy road. Granted, you can bolt everything together but the computers will not be happy. ECU will be looking for 3 different signals from the TCU and without them, prompt a CEL.

The hill holder needs to be operated while the brakes are being bled if I'm remembering correctly.

Nice score Nigel. Glad to see you got yourself a decent little wagon!

So the driveline shortening, guessing its the same size chunk you would take out of an EA82 driveline when doing the EJ transmission. I was planning on modifying the ends of the factory linkage to work with the newer style joints seeing as it looks like they will swap so welding a couple bits together isn't an issue. The starter, now that is concerning. Maybe I should get my hands on an EA82/ER flywheel and see what differences there are. I also had a thought about converting to the EJ push style hydraulic setup. If I can get my hands on a junk EJ transmission case, would you think it's possible to cut it the boss for the slave and weld it into the same spot on the XT6 transmission. I would cut out the same section on my transmission and then tig weld the piece from the EJ transmission into my bell housing. Also, the XT6 uses the same throwout bearing as a first generation Legacy or Impreza on a push style clutch. This clutch was in '91 Legacy wagon that was lifted. Guy said he couldn't run it because of medical issues, too stiff for him to push. Thus, another reason why I'm contemplating trying to convert to a hydraulic setup over the cable... Just need to see if I can make the flywheel work.

Time to bring this back up as I have more questions come the pending transmission rebuild. I think I'm going to keep it a 3.90 for now seeing as I'm daily driving it again. With that being said, I'm looking at a phase 1 EJ transmission to swap the guts over. I'm guessing from the looks of it, the center diff housing will bolt right on, which means I will need to use the EJ mount. Will this change the length of the overall transmission, this requiring me to shorten the front half of the driveline? Are there any particular transmissions I should look for? I've scored a few items over the last few months hopefully I can use in this swap. First, I picked up a set of Cusco solid engine mounts and matching transmission mount from an STi. Then, last weekend, I picked up a OS Giken TS2B twin disc clutch setup for almost nothing, hoping to use in the swap. Figure I can redrill the flywheel to fit. While I'm in there, I plan on doing some Whiteline transmission crossmember bushings. Would there be any reason why the clutch will not work with my setup? It came from a first gen Legacy and is set up for a push style clutch.

Let me know how you like the solids. I have a lifter starting to collapse on my ER and I want to possibly convert it to solid lifters while I'm in there. I'd love to gain some oil pressure as an added bonus too.

That is exactly what you have to do. Pay the bill, tow it to a dealer or a Subaru speciality shop and have them diagnose it. In my professional opinion, the only time I've seen an EA81 lock up was no oil. It is possible that the intake manifold gaskets leaked coolant into the cylinders but if it was running when it stopped, it would have been billowing white smoke.

The banjo filters were only in a couple years, mostly '05-'07. If the turbo has been starved of oil, I would look to something else for a cause. Excessive heat can cause blockages along with longer oil change intervals, sludge and all. If it has been starved, make sure there's no metal in the pan or you could have a short block issue later on.

I've heard of corrosion on the relay causing this issue. I believe there was a TSB on it but cannot confirm as I don't have access to that info anymore. Seen it happen on a few so far.

I've had this up in the USRM for awhile now..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47998-5-lug-conversion-list-plus-tips/ Also have a thread on www.subaruxt.com http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12751 Even though mine is an XT6, it's pretty much the same as an EA82 with all the factory XT6 parts. I have more to do to it but it will give you a good idea of the parts I used. Post up if you have any questions and I will see if I can help out.

Not sure on the bracket you're talking about but the water pump seems to be a dead giveaway that it is a JDM engine. When you replace it with a USDM pump, you will also need the center timing belt cover as they at different between the USDM and JDM engine.

Doug, the struts will work and you might also want to use the Impreza knuckles too. You can make the Impreza struts fit the XT6 knuckles but the XT6 knuckle is fatter then the EJ knuckle where the struts slides over it. I have stretched a set of WRX struts onto a set of XT6 knuckles but you'll enjoy how well it turns with the EJ knuckles. Anyways, back on topic.... I've been planning on doing the MS2 v.3.0 on my XT6. It is compatible with the factory distributor but you can also step up to use the Ford EDIS-4 system, comes on most 4 cylinder Fords in the 90's. I'm planning on using the EDIS-6 and have been finding the needed parts for under $100. Then get the correct wheel mounted onto the crank pulley and wire it in! I've found most of the needed parts and even replacement parts from www.diyautotune.com. You can then use the stock distributor and optical pickup for a cam position and the guys at DIYautotune also make special wheels to give the correct signal to the MS box. Been doing a ton of research on the conversion for my car and the EA82 isn't much different.

I would check the lower radiator hose for the temp and see how it compares to the upper hose temp. If the lower hose stays cold, this means the thermostat isn't opening and should be replaced. I would also use your infrared just to double check the radiator for cold spots. This could pinpoint a partially restricted radiator which I have seen happen, more often on aftermarket brass radiators. I have also seen the thermistor for the gauge cause a similar issue but the car was overheated prior causing damage to the thermistor. If you have anyway to see what temp the ECU sees, that would help significantly. It will help determine if the gauge/thermistor are accurate.

The camber bolt is fine. They never changed the design in 30 years so with that being said... When I do alignments, the weight of the vehicle is on the ground so its trying to stuff the top of the knuckle in toward the strut. Because of this, of puts the weight onto the lobe of the cam bolt. They will even have a bit of looseness to them so with both the bolts loose, the knuckle should have some slop within the bolt holes. All perfectly normal. Just make sure the knuckle slides easy in the strut. I've had several with rust issues and have had to smack the top of the tires with a deadblow hammer to get it to move.

These cars do not camber in like a Honda when they're lowered. You can lower them a few inches with maybe -1.0 degree camber whereas a Honda, 3 inches will pretty much equal to -3.0 degrees. Anything over -1.0 degree will be too much. If its just below -1.0, it should be fine as long as both sides are even.

I've replaced a bunch. Only place to get them reliably is the dealership unfortunately. Unless you want the LED route. I don't remember much they are either though.

The engine you posted first and the second one are not the same fuel system. First one is carbureted nd second one is fuel injected. Also the second picture I can barely make out any of the writing on it. There is only one breather on either side and they get connected and plumbed into the intake after the air flow sensor.

I've had to do the me thing. Unfortunately, some of them don't like to move, even with a press and a torch. I found out the hard way when the knuckle broke before the bolt moved.... If you grind that ear flat, you should have no issues with the alignment.

If you can visibly see no hole in a hose and you've replaced the gasket, I'm willing to bet its a bad water pump. I have seen cheap new ones leak straight out of the box. I might have an old water pump sitting around here you could try but I wouldn't run it myself...

Awesome, exactly what I needed to know! He is also lucky that the car is now old enough to not require county emissions so it makes it really easy.

Just got home from Saturn's garage and we were able to get a few the done. Come to find out this is an '86 standard with an EA71 and the feedback carburetor... It's been quite a few years since I've worked on one and looking to find out how to delete it all, from the ECU to the charcoal canister and such. Does anyone have some info on getting rid of it and what other issues might arise from ripping it out.

Is it stock or have you done any internal work to it? I want it but I'm in the process of moving, getting married and buying a house so my free space is currently none.

Sorry I never got back to you man, moving has been stressful.... I might have some time tomorrow to come over if the timing allows. Shooting you a PM....

It looks very similar to a GL tank so I wouldn't be surprised if they're not. If you have one, get some measurements off of it and compare to a GL tank. I do know unlike EA81s, the 2wd and 4wd EA82 gas tanks are the same.

Discard from Subaru on all EJ cars with solid rear disc rotors is .335". Unless you have a serious pulsation in the brake pedal or are heavily rusted, I would merely resurface them and reuse them.