Caboobaroo

'99 into early '00 was the changeover from plastic to metal.

Starting in roughly 2000, depending on manual or auto, its either a 21mm like described above, or a T70 Torx. I bought one from Snap-On and the price was $50 but you can get them cheaper if you look around. The rear is actually a standard 1/2" drive size. I use a ratchet or a breaker bar if the plugs don't want to move.

Factory alignments are junk. No new Subaru I've seen is totally perfect, just good enough to make it drive straight and get it out the door. Seen it all everything from base model Imprezas, STis, Legacys and more. And its not only Subaru, its all vehicle manufactures that produce more then a few cars a year. To the OP. Get the tires balanced and rotated if needed, aligned and report back. Also, factory tires are soft and wear quickly. Reason is, with a softer tire, it helps with road noise and will make the vehicle sound quieter when you first buy it.

I will be there in the XT6 with my better half:cool:

Thats what I hear....

Might have a couple around in my extra parts. Can you give me a few days to see if I can source one up?

I have a set of Enkei RPF1s 17x8 +45 with 215/45R17 Toyo Proxes 4s on my XT6. The tires barely scrub on the rear coil springs under hard cornering, just enough to take the paint off. For me, the best offset to run would be a +40 on the XT6 as I have a lot of clearance in the rear wheel arches. However, I ran this same wheel/tire combo on my '87 EA82 coupe and they rubbed the wheel arch in the rear under hard cornering but only on the right rear. Unless I was able to pull the rear quarters out a bit, I didn't think a wider tire or different offset would work.

I bet if you yard all the wiring from the rolled over one and transplant it into the good one, then it might work.

If you're going to dive back in, I do have a few pointers. The tangs that clip the harness plugs onto the coils will sometimes break due to heat, wrap a zip tie around the coil pack to hold it on. I have also found it easier to do plugs on the DOHC 2.5s by unbolting the engine mount nuts on the underside of the crossmember and lifting the engine a bit so you can rock the engine for a bit more wiggle room. You say misfire codes but which cylinders?

The hydraulic chain tensioners can bleed pressure off and cause chain noise. Head gaskets can fail internally when over heated a bit. Choice of transmission can be limited because the EZ30 uses a pulse signal from the torque converter. Unless you can be confident in working othe 3.0 with its chains and 100 timing case bolt, it can get intimidating.

Check the float inside the master cylinder. If the level is low enough of the float is stuck, it will cause the brake light to stay on. Or a faulty parking brake switch but I don't think I've seen that on a Subaru.

Not all turbos do. EJ205s still run an open deck block but the EJ255 and EJ257 run a semi closed deck because of the bracing you're talking about.

Since you're in the area, also check out http://www.allwheeldriveauto.com . You can submit a parts request and they will email you an estimate or stop on in as we are located in Kirkland.

If its a '80, it's going to have a few issues with clearance. I can't recall exactly but I remember something about the driver side axle contacting the steering shaft.

This... Pretty much sums it up. If they're not leaking badly and are still OEM, replace them with the timing belt.

If the cap isn't holding pressure, it can bleed out into the overflow when the system starts to pressurize as you're driving. The air you might be seeing could be air trapped in the cooling system if it isn't properly burped as well.

Try replacing the cap with a OEM one. I have seen many aftermarket ones that don't function properly and can cause major problems. Since you mentioned a bleeder screw, sounds like you have the EJ25D. Did you make sure to burp the cooling system before taking off in it? Trapped air can cause the temp gauge to head up as well.

Was the alternator replaced with a cheapo remand one? I have seen "new" alternators be crap right out of the box. Like it was said, check the battery connections but also check the alternator connections. Enough corrosion on the white power wires on the alternator will cause major issues. I had to cut and splice in about 2 feet of those wires on a '96 Legacy due to corrosion.

Ok I think I should elaborate. On the EJ25Ds, they get over heated easier as people don't realize they fail internally, until it's too late. Because of the head design on these, they don't usually warp unless they are severely overheated. At that point the heads will crack or warp beyond repair and the block also warps from severe over heating. On the EJ251 and up SOHC non turbo 2.5s, they run a single layer gasket with a coating on them. The coating will eventually get washed out of the bottom starting with the oil passages, then the coolant passages will follow but mileage can vary from 50k to 200k. Depends on routine maintanence and era of the engine. In '05 they were supposedly updated but seem to leak quicker then the older single layer gaskets. When the coating washes out to the point where there is green coolant, the heads are almost warped beyond the .002" spec they should be. It's not from overheating, it's usually from the coating being washed away and from numerous heat cycles. The OEM coating is fairly thick as well so I also think it releases some of the torque on the head bolts in the areas where it washes out. Now don't quote me directly on some of this as its speculation from what I've seen. I typically do a set of 2.5 liter head gaskets of some era at least once a week so I do get to see a lot of different cases.

June of 2008, I stumbled across my 1989 XT6 on Craigslist. No pictures were posted and after a few emails, I went to look at it. Thinking I was going to part it out on my drive out there in my '87 RX, when I got there it was in too good of condition and would feel bad if I did. Had an air suspension issue and a bearing noise in the transmission but after talking with the original owners of it, I drove it home for $200! That would be my sister's brand new 2008 Outback Sport in the background Realizing I owned 3 cars and a motorcycle ('87 RX, '89 XT6, '85 GL turbo, and a '08 Yamaha R6) now while living in an apartment, I had to sell it a week after I bought it. Luckily, it went to a good home, Turbone's home. After a good polish, transmission swap and suspension conversion to standard springs and struts, he took it to WCSS10 and took Best XT/XT6. 6 months later, I had sold off the XT6, the '85 GL and sold off the drivetrain from the RX, I needed a car to drive during the winter, Turbone loaned it to me and I fell in love. I ended up getting it back shortly after from him (thanks Rob!) and started to tweak it. Started by swapping my Enkei RPF1 rims onto it. Here she is with Rob's ebony collection. Then she went in for tint. Sporting 18% just for reference. I then swapped in some KYB GR2s in the front with the addition of some EBay coil over sleeves for an Impreza. Also now had tinted tail lights and front marker lights done with VHT Nightshade. Then she went to WCSS11 where she won Best XT/XT6. Again, with Rob's black RX. After that, I continued with regular maintanence as modifying my daily driver was not only a dumb idea but also expensive. Then right before WCSS12, she was involved in a hit and run incident while I was at my parents house, enjoying Father's day. I come home to this... I stopped driving it after it started leaking a quart of oil in less then 500 miles. I also needed to do other work to it with the suspension so I made due. After a few shop changes, I found myself working for All Wheel Drive Auto, an independent Subaru repair shop. Lucky me:drunk: Then I decided it was time to get moving on getting it ready to take to WCSS12. I did a full engine reseal with the last OEM engine gasket set in the US, along with new timing belts, rollers and tensioners. I even replaced the automatic tensioner for the driver side belt (thanks ShawnW!) with a new OEM one. A new clutch kit went in, water pump, serpentine belt, timing belt covers, and oil pressure sending unit I replaced the 3.90 converted clutch LSD to a 3.90 viscous LSD from a Legacy. Also did a full fluid change on it (transmission, rear differential, brake fluid with ATE blue, and Motul engine oil) the day we were supposed to leave for WCSS13, and she started having issues. Since it was a fairly long drive to the event, I decided to not go and risk having more issues on the trip. I let her sit for a few weeks before I mustered up some will to go see what was going on. Finally had a Check Engine light illuminate and pulled a Coolant Temp Sensor code. Pulled the connector and it was pretty green so I cut it off and modified one to work. One thing I am lucky for, is my roommate who is also my coworker so we carpool to work in his '90 Toyota 4Runner so my car sits in the garage. Anyways, since it sits most of the time, I've been doing a lot more stuff in regards to the suspension and brakes. Let's just say I will do a full update on it after WCSS14 this summer:headbang: Here's a picture of it with my newest Subaru that's been added to the stable, 2004 Outback Limited 3.0 sedan:banana: All of my pictures of the vehicle are on my Webshots location http://community.webshots.com/user/caboobaroo

I won't be able to make it as I will be attending my little brother's high school graduation that weekend in Oregon:horse:

NA head gaskets from '96 through 2010. The '96-'99 EJ25Ds will blow into the combustion chamber this leading to hydrocarbons (exhaust gases) in the cooling system. '00 - '04 typically can go over 100k miles before they get bad enough to replace. These leak externally along the bottom side of the heads and block. Usually oil is first, eventually followed by coolant. I have found once I see green coolant on the bottom of the heads or engine crossmember, the heads are more then likely warped. '05 and up through 2010 usually leak the same as the '00 - '04 gaskets but they go a lot quicker. Usually under 100k miles. Same as above, once I see green coolant, most the time the heads are warped and need to be machined.

The code is probably hard set into the ECU. Would need to be cleared properly. IIRC, that code comes on after two running cycles. Also check the harness on top of the transmission for an issue. Could come down to an ECU issue if everything else checks out. I can look at a flow chart tomorrow at work for more ideas.

Mine is barely broken in at 99k.... My '89 XT6 has 146k on its 2.7. - 6

Check under the carpet behind the rear seats. There should be an access plate on the passenger side with 4 bolts in it. remove them and you should see the fuel pump assembly sticking out of the tank.