Caboobaroo

The OEM ones always leak which is true. I was referring to the MLS head gaskets on the N/A EJ25s.

BUT if you decide to get one that needs head gaskets, make sure to use a MLS head gasket. Only time I see one of those fail on an EJ25D, EJ251, EJ253 is when the vehicle has been abused by overheating, either by a blown radiator or bad water pump.

Gary I have a C-clamp style spring compressor I got from Matco tools but I have seen the same one from other makers. I will get a pic of it and post it up this week.

Sounds like you partially hydrolocked the engine because the headgaskets failed into the combustion chambers from massive overheating. Those codes are specific cylinder misfire codes and with the hydrolocking, could have done internal damage to the engine. You should pull the plugs, check the condition of them and do a compression and leakdown tests. If it was me, since it has to come out to get the head gaskets replaced, you can check out the internals while its torn down.

I actually had one of these in the shop ('05 Outback 2.5i) a couple days ago with the exact same issue but I also had a P0132 and a P0134 as well as the P0031 and P0131. Only thing I can think of is a bad ECU.

I've seen new aftermarket ones not work out of the box. Also had one that worked for 4 days before taking a crap. Most of the time they work just fine.

Its an old Subaru. If it ain't leaking, it ain't running..... I would do a full engine reseal. Yard the engine out and get a gasket set and do the whole thing. Also get a new clutch if it needs of. Also find the source of the coolant leak that is present on the front of the engine, drover side. Probably a waterpump and the 90 degree hose that goes from it to the upper bypass line. Also he a good time to do timing belts and components.

^^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^^ Also let it be known that of you do have a cat going bad, it will cut the lifespan of the sensors as well.

Wow dude that's impressive. Looking at the pics it didn't just roll but you were going fast enough to flip it onto the right rear corner and punch it down. At least she went in glory. :golfclap:

Just recently went through some training with Ohio Diagnostics, the company that makes the Subaru Select Monitor 3 for independent shops. Part of the training was aimed at the newest torque bind issues. Glad this SUS I have my eye on is an '03 ;-)

I usually only replace the rear moons of they're leaking, which is very unlikely. I usually put a dab of gray silicone on the corners of the rubber to prevent them from leaking. As far as axles go, I would only go OEM on these cars as I've seen many new aftermarket axles cause heavy vibrations under accellerating, decellerating, and highway speeds. If your current axle isn't making noise you can still possibly reboot it instead of replace it. Empi axle boots are OEM as well which is what I use. Their boot kits come with grease and bands where others can come with just the boot.

Car had basically a gray RX interior. Looked identical to the RXs I've owned. Car was bright red, no bodykit. Nothing real distinguishing about it but it did have a OEM gl-10 sticker on the hatch. Only thing I can think of if it wasn't an actual gl-10 is maybe it got rear ended and the wrong badge got placed back on it.

Hows the brake fluid level look?

After having experience doing a few sets of these, use the OEM gaskets. They seem to seat better on the head and in the cover where the aftermarket ones seem a bit smaller and a not as tight fit as the OEM ones.

OK guys, let me help out a bit. Starting in 2004, Subaru changed the design of the internals of the transmission along with reconfiguring the duty C solenoid. Unfortunately they didn't really get the torque bind issue resolved but instead relocated the solenoid into the valvebody. Start with a flush and see if that helps. I would also try using a better fluid as well.

They did offer a GL-10 3 door coupe but they are fairly rare. Basically a RX had almost all the options the GL-10 had so most people got that. I have seen an '88 GL-10 coupe that was MPFI NA, 4EAT with a LSD.

Ummm why not replace it with a good unit. Even if you get it out and a new slide for it, there's still enough rust in the housing that it will bind back up, sooner then later. Calipers are still a safety item and I would hate to see one lock up or completely fail on someone, especially when you can get a set of loaded calipers for $150 if that.

I think that might actually work on those.

I unfortunately had a family issue come up and had to head south after my training today. Wish I could have made it instead.... :unamused:

I would start by checking the advance in the distributor to make sure its working properly. I have a vacuum pump with a gauge I use but you can also use a piece of vacuum line and suck the opposite end of it and see if its holding.

Its a halfshaft issue, I will even put $10 on it. You will probably say again they are fine but I see this all the time. Aftermarket axles are junk. Find some OEM axles from a yard and reboot them if the joints are still good and swap them in.

Also check your coolant temp sensor. Not the sending unit for the gauge, the sensor for the computer. They're known to corrode the connector and cause a runnability issue when cold.

I'm originally from Corvallis

Use OEM parts. You'll thank yourself later for that. Also make sure that if the spark plug tube seals are leaking and have oil soaked the wires, to replace those too. As for the valve adjustment. Make sure the came are in a relaxed state (can make on driver side pointing down and passenger side pointing up). You will need a set of feeler gauges , a 10mm wrench and a flat head screwdriver. Upper valves (intake) get a .008" and bottom valves (exhaust) get a .010"

It will not plug into the '87s, Miles. I have an earlier bumper on my '87 coupe and I had to change the plugs on the turn signals. Everything else is the same.