Caboobaroo

There's a fellow on NASIOC selling some rims for a very awesome price but he's in Spokane. I don't have the funds to go get them and come back so I was going to see if someone in the area could grab them and hold onto them until they come over the mountains. $$ will be given:-p

Well my roomate needs something he can get in and drive with minimal work (since he's not any sort of mechanic) because I don't wanna put work into his car when mine needs work....

So I bought the set off of ebay... and they came today. I think I paid for them two days ago... but they're out of Yakima, WA:-p

Newer compared to a lot of stuff I've seen you drag home:lol:

yeah but that was a used one lol!

Ed, next time you plan on going, gimme a jingle. I'm always down for hitting up the yard since I also gotta get a few small items for my coupe

Ed, my roomate who came with me to the show is looking for a decent EA81 car. Would he have any that would be a decent fixer upper by chance?

If you're looking for more power but want to put a turbo motor in there to last awhile, then go with an EJ20 or an EJ22T. You can get a complete JDM frontcut for pretty reasonable and it will have everything needed to do the swap for the most part. That and stock HP rating is much higher then an EA82T.

I tend to buy most of my Subaru needed parts from either the dealership or from www.thepartsbin.com. I'm just on a tight budget right now and since I need my car to get around (my mountain bike needs a few bucks put into it), I can't afford to blow a tensioner. I got rid of everything when I moved:rolleyes:

I had one of the older Accell coils in my Brat and before that, was in an '88 hatch. The newer ones, unless mounted vertical, have issues with the oil in them removing itself from its location and burning up the coil.

Yup sure can... Not like I would do anything like that:rolleyes: Or have 8 people ride around in the bed either:-p

I'd be there in a heatbeat if I was still in Wyoming... This just means Mick needs to come to the west coast:-p

Just let me know if I gotta come resue you from the middle of nowhere:grin:

Thanks Mike, I just bought a set so hopefully my old tensioners will last until I get these:lol:

So my coupe is making a very loud noise from the tensioners. I'm kinda amazed they're still together:lol: Anyways, I'm seeing where people tend to get replacement tensioners and what they usually pay. I'm also needing an idler as well (might as well replace it while I'm at it) but the belts are new, maybe 1500 miles total on them. I've found the tensioners on www.thepartsbin.com for $27.95 for the left and $19.95 for the right. Idler by istelf is $29.95. They have a complete timing belt kit for just under $160. Thats like $90 for timing belts!?!?! I looked on the bay of Evil and came up with some but not enough to choose between...

First off, there are several different overheating "issues" that help determine what could be wrong. Firstly, does it do it idling, not moving, in traffic? Does it do it while driving as well or only while driving? If its overheating while driving but not at idle, then its a clogged radiator usually. If it does it while idle but not at speed, then it could be a waterpump issue. Just because the waterpump "looks" good, doesn't mean that it is. I've seen Subaru waterpumps shear off the fins inside so from the outside, it looks perfectly dandy but in reality, it wasn't doin its job. Also, does it help to drive with the heater on? If thats the case, then that could be another sign of a bad radiator. In my experience those radiator flushes you buy are worthless. If you have a leak and put the stop leak in it, then have to end up using the flush later down the road, then it can loosen up the stop leak and move it around the system and clog up other areas.

depends on if you want to go with a carb or EFI. You'll need it with an EFI setup but with a carbed setup, you'll need to figure out your jetting, how large of a carb you'll need, and how to keep your carb from blowing seals from the boost flowing through it. EFI is a lot easier to build but carb is a lot easier to tune unless you have the knowledge on tuning an EFI boosted car. I would do EFI myself since I've done a lot of reading on turbo'd cars but carb would be fun! I bet you could boost a carbed EA since I've seen it done with a dual carb'd L20B in a Dastun 510.

Good idea in theory but if you think about it, the supercharger not spinning will create more of a restrictor for the engine due to the piping and the screws inside the charger.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400 for 5-lug list and tips... WRX rims are 16" diameter by 7" width. If you decide to go with EJ fornt suspension and brakes, there are many more upgrades you can do later down the road (Tien coilovers, Big Brake kits, so on and so forth) On my 5-lug, since I had to get some of the parts shipped from Washington to Wyoming at the time, ran me about $850 total for everything I needed. But of course, the yard I got my EJ front brakes and suspension from, charged me up the wazoo for it since they were the only yard in the area with the parts I needed:eek:

Imprezas came in a 2wd form but they were earlier models. I've seen a '93 Impreza sedan that was a FWD autotradgic...

He means the EA81 bodystyle, like the car you're originally posting up in this thread. They made then into RXs as well but only in Japan IIRC....

Dalton, basically, the supercharger sucks outside air into it, compresses it and stuffs it into the intake (or carb if its a blow through). Yes, just plumb it directly into the intake unless you want to put an intercoler on it which would go inbetween the suercharger and the intake.

I've been lazy... I still got mud covering my coupe:grin:

Maybe the typical sports car couldn't hold all 6 highschool kids when they wanted to go joyriding:lol:

Kids these days... all about the forced induction:-p Superchargers work off a belt driven system. Also, its a lot easier to put a supercharger (like a turbo) onto an FI setup unless you have some awesome capabilities to get it to work with a carb (is done on old muscle cars). Gotta add more fuel with the added air you're stuffing into the engine. So tuning is another major key and with carbs, you can rejet the carb to add more fuel or go with a bigger carb. Two different styles are a draw through and a blow through. Blow through is pretty self explanitory as far as the air gets "blown through" the carb(s). The draw through draws the fuel/air mixture through the carb and pounds it into the engine. I have seen a couple of Subarus with s/c's on them. One was a '90? Legacy L wagon with the stock EJ22 and a Eaton M30 supercharger on it (I think thats what it was anyways) at WCSS6. I've also seen pics of an STi that some reknob in Colorado did but he left the stock turbo (all disconnected and bypassed it somehow?) and put on a crappy supercharger setup. So yes, it can be done and has been done but tuning comes along the lines of a turbo'd car. More fuel for more air and the a/f ratio has to be pretty spot on or else, lean conditions which equal pre detonation or rich conditions which fouls everything (plugs and 02 sensor), puffs black smoke and gets fuel past the rings and into the oil. If you want a good book (and I advise this for anyone wanting to learn about forced induction) get "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. One awesome read but it focuses more on turbos then superchargers.