rweddy

Very easy, no lift needed at all. Need a 1/2 drive to get them off. MAke sure you get the top off first, this is your fill plug. Bottom is drain plug.

The studs out are not and issue, the same as if you lost them by driving. These are the tires I have set on my wife’s Honda. Great tires, a little bit loud but great in the snow,ice,etc. Before we could not get the Honda up the driveway unless I was to completely shovel it, now no problem. These tires are also great on the road and have helped handling and braking also.

Tires get very brittle when it is cold, maybe just a tire issue? No subaru's run very well in the cold. I would put a few bottles of heat in your tank, maybe have a bit of water in the lines?

Great motor, second only to the 2.2 turbo. One of the best motors subaru has ever made.

Here is the link to the Subaru Site 5 spd = Continuous Auto = Active http://www.subaru.com/allwheeldrive/ver2005/index.jsp I would not say it is a problem with the automatic, just the awd system on the 5 spd is Viscous-Coupling which is superior to the set up used in the Auto. The Auto system still works very well. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential9.htm IMO a turbo auto is ok but a manual would be my choice!!

Welcome to the group. First stop going to the dealership!! Find a good local subaru shop, they are way better than any dealership. Plus you live in CO so there are tons of good shops. Plugs are very easy to get out use a wobble socket if needed.

Hate to burst your bubble but the AWD system is different between Manual and Auto. Automatic-equipped Subarus use a computer-controlled hydraulic clutch pack, similar to those found in an automatic transmission, to transfer torque to the rear axle when the sensors detect a 20% difference in axle rotation speeds between the front and rear axles. Normally torque is split 90 front/10 rear. Not really all that different from most of the other AWD systems. Manual-equipped Subarus use a viscous coupling, similar to a limited slip differential (and certain full-time 4WD transfer cases) where under normal, dry circumstances the torque is split 50/50 until the physical difference of the rotational speeds of the axles causes the hydraulic fluid in the coupling to heat up to the point where it acts as a clutch, forcing the two axles to turn at the same speed. It's basically the sameas full-time 4WD without the extra low gear. It can transfer torque front and back almost 100/0 or 0/100 if necessary.

The 2.2 is a more bullet proof motor than the 2.5. If you do not fix the 2.5 then it will have bottom end issues. A 2.5 will not last last long wo issues.

Sounds like clutch slipping. I had this happen on one of my subarus. Had to drive home in 3rd grear 5,000 rpm, only going 30 mph.

How is the seller's ebay rating?Car fax on the car? Can you find others for the $5100 range in your area?

Have you pulled any codes?

Can someone run this vin for me? JF1BC6726NG607678 Thanks

I would get the turbo 4 with the manual tranny, the manual has a better AWD system then the auto.

This car is computer controlled. This is not like an old carburetor that you could adjust the float level screws on. There is probably a sensor failure some where. O2 sensor or other causing the issue. Is your check engine light on?

Water pumps general leak before they go or make noises. That could be but the 2.5s are infamous for HG issues, and all the issues point to that being the issue.

I agree with cookie, all the signs point to HG failure. The thermo removal will only help for a bit.

Be patient and check ebay. I won a brand new factory bra for $65 on ebay. BTW get a factory bra, it is 100 times better than Lebra/Wolf, etc. I was shocked at how much better the factory bra was, better quality, fit, much better built quality, etc.

I think it depends on how long you plan to keep it?I would just fix the HG unless you plan to keep the car for very long term, then do the 2.2 swap.

When you hit the button do you hear the pump motor?

Thanks! I thought they were offered in 90 also. The car is little beat but runs great and I think I can get if for under $1000. It does have 185K, but drives strait and shifts very well. It needs a bit of body & interior work, brakes, cv joint, and misc small issues.

15ampTo change the differential or the fluid in the differential?

I agree, unless it is a super nice or rare model (ie turbo wagon) I do not think the work, $$$, headache, etc. would be worth it.

I am asking this because I found one, that needs some work. I have read several sales on ebay and other saying there are only 5 or 12 per year that were stick rather than Auto. Is this true? How rare are the 5sps models?

Welcome to the HG club. Oils will look fine, Subaru 2.5 leak exhaust into the system. So the oil will never look milky. If you just purchased the car, someone probably sold it because of the HG issues. It is not that bad, pay the $1200 to fix it and you are good for another 140k. Sorry

Nothing leaks like an ea82! You can see from my signature how many I have owned so I know first hand how much leaking a ea82 does. The ej22 is imo the 2nd best engine subaru has ever made. (ej22t best) The only issues the ej22 usually have is cam seals and occasionally oil pumps, but unlike the ea82 pump, the ej22 has a simple o-ring that can be replaced and it will go for a long time. I like the 5spd better but the autos are fine.