Numbchux

If the coolant bypassing the radiator (through the heater core[s] in this case) is adequately removing the heat, than the thermostat doesn't need to open. As long as there's adequate circulation, the thermostat will open when it's needed. In theory, removing the thermostat entirely can be counterproductive, as increasing the coolant flow means it doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to actually dissipate the heat.

Make sure you actually bypass the heater core. Circulation through that circuit is what warms up (and therefore opens) the thermostat.

So when the EGR valve opens, the engine revs up? It's supposed to go to the exhaust... I'm confused

Remove fuse 14 for 1 minute. Or disconnect the battery.

You connected your EGR pipe to the airbox? Um.....

Those are ground wires, specifically for plugging into that diagnostic connector. Insert one into pin 5.

Found this showing testing the diagnosis terminals I show B82 as the door lock timer on an Lx. You should be looking for B58. insert one of those terminals that should be taped into the harness next to it (or just jumper to ground) in pin 5, and you should get some codes.

I'm looking at the manuals while I have time here at work. But off the top of my head, I know the '95 Lx is a unique animal. OBDII, same connector as the other camlock early OBDII ECUs, but different pinout. So make sure anything you search for is specific for the '95 Lx 2.2 Impreza. I'm sure the right code reader could do A/T diag through the OBDII port. Maybe FreeSSM

Trailing arms and brakes are all different. You could probably use the 4WD trailing arms on the 2WD Crossmember, and then just weld on the 2 tabs for the forward diff mount. 2 bolts on either side for the mustache bar mounts. Yes, there are dimples in the right spot. I'm sure the factory 4WD cars had a captive nut there. But there seemed to be a decent amount of steel, so I tapped them and bolted it in. Probably not correct....but I beat the hell out of that car for many years (ice racing and autocrossing, as well as pizza delivery, daily driving, and even some offroading later in it's life), and had zero issues with that.

Been done many times. Swap the whole rear suspension in. I drilled and tapped into the frame rails for the rear diff rear crossmember. Carrier bearing mount for the driveshaft will need to be fabricated. I just bent a couple pieces of flat stock, bolted them through the tunnel. It was pretty poorly done, but I was young and dumb, and it worked. I later had a 1 piece shaft made. Everything else pretty much bolts in. Shift linkage, axles, clutch. Center console is different between a Loyale and GL, so it might not look pretty unless you swap the entire console. But it'll work. That car was EJ22 swapped at the same time, and probably lasted another 75k miles, with multiple different drivetrain combinations, until at least 3 owners after me was drunk and went straight through a "T" intersection at 60+mph. Hit hard enough to kink the roof, but the drivetrain was fine.

Yep, I've done a few variations of that on several vehicles.

I assume so, I'd have to study to remember. But almost certainly switch to ground.

That's true of the main oil pressure switch. But he said "on the head". The VVT switches thread right into the head casting. If that cracks, it's no small project to repair. Yes, BSP pipe thread, which is tapered to help it seal. It should not bottom out. Thread sealant of some sort should be added.

The VDC models had side airbags in the seat. To my knowledge, none of these models were available with cloth seats AND side airbags. You could probably put a resister in the connector to make the system think the side airbags were present, and then you'd have the same protection as the other models. But definitely something to be aware. Off the top of my head, I think the Outback ones will likely all be tan interior. You can get a Legacy L one with All-Weather package and gray cloth, but it will likely not be power. Passenger seats are all manual, but again I think you'll sacrifice the side airbag. Rear seats should all be interchangeable within body style (wagon vs sedan vs Baja), maybe even across. I put a back seat from a '98 OBK Wagon into a '99 OBK Sedan years ago. The cushion was a touch different, but it bolted right up, and looked better than the torn one that was there.

Pretty sure there's a neutral switch on the transmission, if you wanted to use it. But yea, clutch switch is fine