Numbchux

no. the strut-to-knuckle hardware is extremely unique. you won't find a longer travel setup that will work without extreme modifications. and while the strut is the limiting factor, there are numerous other parts that need to be upgraded in order to do it reliably. increasing your travel in the front won't happen without some pretty serious investment.

AND, that also means that that side's suspension is compressed, which means that the CVs aren't at an extreme angle.

IIRC, megasquirt can't decipher the Crank Angle Sensor signal. so something else has to be used. be it a distributer, or a sensor on the crank pulley...

I can't speak for everywhere, but all the junkyards I've ever been to, they cut the cats out of the Y-pipe before putting the car in the yard. if it's the cat in the Y, if you can't find a junkyard one, don't even think about replacing the whole thing. your options there are OEM from a dealer (think many hundreds of dollars, at least), or custom. use a long screwdriver, or piece of rebar to knock up the remains of the cat and let them fall out of the cat. then, if you really want to have that cat in there, cut a piece of the pipe out further back, and clamp in an aftermarket one (which still won't be cheap at all). besides, assuming by your screen name that this is a 90 loyale, you've already got 2 in there.....

snowman wrote it for EA82s years ago. GD wrote one specific to EA81s just within the last 6 months or so. if you test pin 47 with a test light to ground, it will light. it doesn't supply power to the ECU, but if it's connected to a ground, it will complete the circuit (which will activate the fuel pump circuit). I'm looking at a FSM diagram right now, the wire gets power from the other side of the relay. as for the no spark issue. double check your ignition timing. it's real easy to have your disty rotor 180* off, lining up with TDC of the wrong stroke. or are you getting no spark at all? check for trouble codes, it could be the crank angle sensor (which will throw a code).

I think you're referring to where the valves float, which is mostly dependent on the condition of the valve springs, my better-running '88 could easily hit 7200 before the valves would float. the red-line is what's marked on the tach, the ECU on the newer cars will actually cut fuel to prevent you from exceeding the redline, as the valvetrain is much stronger and would probably rev well beyond the marked limit. I think it's carbed vs FI. my buddy's '86 and my old '85 carbed EA82s both have 6k rpm redlines (although I didn't realize it on mine until long after I junked the car and found the old gauge cluster, I swapped the cluster for one from an '88 with a 6.5k redline within a few weeks of buying the car) both my '88s, and my '92 are marked at 6500.

pin 47 is the wire that allows the ECU to turn on the fuel pump. with the ECU unplugged, plug in the fuel pump relay, and turn the ignition on. now take a small piece of wire, stick it in pin 47, and touch it to ground. if the fuel pump relay (and therefore the pump itself) comes on, it's wired correctly.

MN. you know, big port city on Lake Superior...

it very easily could be the radio wiring. the auto seatbelts get their power on the same circuit as the radio memory, dash clock memory, horn, and hazard lights (I had the clock/horn/hazard fuse blow, and the radio wouldn't remember anything, and the auto seatbelts wouldn't work). pulling the radio isn't too tough, pull it out and check the wiring. especially the memory wire, if it's shorted out somewhere, I imagine it could do a number of funky things.

not sure where Waukesha is...but I'm up in Duluth. there are probably 8-10 loyales that live in town here. I love passing them in the tunnels

I believe just the EZ30R does. the older EZ30D did not (and also didn't have AVLS or AVCS).

did you convert it to SFA? I thought it was IFS when you bought it. I too am a convert. bought the cleanest 1st gen 4Runner I've ever seen in MN. got a deal on it cause it was run out of oil. it's an '87 Turbo, and the lack of oil took it's toll on the motor, and just when I got things fixed, the turbo goes. so after I get new suspension for the loyale, the yota will get swapped to a plain ol' 22RE. bone stock, on 31s and ugly wheels, for now:

the wiring harness is from a '92. and all the diagrams and stuff are for '92. it's OBD I. nope, it's a totally separate thing. it appears that the plug for the VSS comes out near the O2 sensors. so it very easily could be on the tranny.

yep, it's either the switch, or one of the relays between there. like GLoyale said, hotwire it. run a wire straight from the + battery terminal to the little tab on the top of the starter. if it starts right up, it's something up under the dash. in which case, I'd wire a whole new circuit to a button....just to keep it simple. if it still has trouble turning over, it's the relay inside the starter. in which case....new starter.

I'm working on an EG33 swap harness for a local guy (into a '95 impreza wagon ). I've got 2 small questions. 1. Fuel pump modulator. What is it. there's a fuel pump signal wire from the ECU. can we just connect this to trip the pump relay. according to my pinout, it just grounds that wire to activate the pump. but according to the diagrams, it goes through this modulator first. AND, again according to the pinout, there's a fuel pump discharge flow control wire which goes to the modulator aswell. it looks like it tells the modulator how much fuel pressure to give.... 2. Vehicle speed sensor. it appears that this sensor is a completely external thing. it's got a 3 wire connector (I wasn't been involved in the removal of the harness...so I don't know where it was plugged into). I appears to have a power wire, a ground, and a signal (which goes to the ECU). can I connect the signal wire to a signal wire in the imp harness....and have it work?

an EZ 6-cyl is not heavier than any of the other listed options. it's the same external size as a 4-cyl, and uses a plastic intake mani... but, would cost many times more to get ahold of, and get running.

you'll be hard-pressed to get 15-20" per corner out of a solid axle rig....

yep. it's just the wagon wheels.

that's very definitely true.

The motor is substantially longer. so the radiator will need to be moved forward a bunch. also, IIRC there is a 3rd motor mount in front. so you'll need to address that. then there's the wiring issue....but that's not a huge deal. it's more than possible. and there are a handfull of people who have done it.

define a lot of travel...the method I mentioned above will allow for 12" PER SIDE. which is waaayyyy more than the stock axles can handle. for the front, the struts are the limiting factor (physically limiting travel, however, the axle joints will become a problem if you get longer travel struts). and since they're in integrated part of the suspension and steering geometry, substantial modification will be required to replace them. maybe design a simple A-arm to attach to the top of the knuckle to maintain camber, and then a basic coilover shock could be used. I haven't the faintest idea how you might be able to get a longer travel CV shaft to mate with the subaru tranny or steering knuckle. however you go about it, you're looking at A LOT of custom work

I don't know, that part wasn't my idea....I just know that if you replace the double offset joint on the inside with a second constant velocity joint, you'll need to add a slip joint. the whole point of having a double offset in there is so it'll telescope. the stub's retaining bolt is in the center of the stub shaft.

there are numerous companies who make CV shafts for IFS trucks with slip joints in the middle to keep them from hyper-extending. the ones I've been looking at are for Chevy pickups. if you could get your hands on a slip joint like that (whether cut from a kit like that, or bought seperately), you could weld them into the shaft, and then take it to a driveline shop and have it balance. nope, there's an external 10mm torx bolt in the bottom of it.

need more than the hubs, but not the whole arm. the rotors are different (5 lug holes instead of 4...), and the rotors are also larger, so you need the backing plate to push the caliper out a bit further. but the calipers are the same and the trailing arms are too. baccaruda....I'd love to get my hands on some trailing arms with sway bar mounts....but I've been looking, and asking in every partout thread for about 4 months, and still don't have any :-\