Numbchux

^^I think he was referring to the discovery in the origional video....did you watch it? apparently computer controlled everything!! my uncle's disco is like 10 years old with close to 200k miles on it....it hasn't had any problems. btw, I just saw a very sweet looking defender tool through Duluth today! I just thought it was pretty funny since we were just talking about it.

the viscous center diff is pretty strong. when Austin and I went up to the MN offroad park, he got high centered, but with both back wheels touching the ground, and one front wheel in the air. if the center was truly open, that one front wheel that was in the air would spin freely....but no, it spun, but at the same time, one of the back wheels dug a hole in the ground trying to get traction. I think the ideal situation would be LSD or welded rear, and dual handbrake on the front. the front diff is the only one that you don't and can't easily get a traction control device in....

now I'm confused. you said the suspension gave 1.5-2", plus the tires 2", gives 3.5-4". now you're saying it's 3+ without the tires? I'm not understanding something.... anyway, when my buddy upgraded to AGX's in his impreza, we checked it out. and the yeild barely as much travel as the stock struts. so I would imagine that forester AGXs wouldn't be an upgrade over stock forester struts except they're stiffer...

I will miss the confusion caused by rolling up to the offroad park in my subaru. but the only cost advantage the subaru has, is initial cost, and tires (35s cost a little more than 29s...). but I should be able to get this truck on 35s by spring with about $500. and I have an AT, gearing, and articulation. next summer...5.29 axle gears, and lockers (detroit rear, ARB front). the subaru was fun....but it's got nothing. 3" subaru body lift: I paid $350, but I think they're more now.... toyota 1.5" ball joint spacer for the front: $100 add-a-leaves for the rear: $50 2" body lift: $150 total 3.5" lift (half suspension too): $300 the lockers and gears will be uber expensive, but at least it's possible. rear disc conversion is a bit more expensive....but should easily be able to do it for less than $500. so yea, the subaru was cheaper, but not by as much as many people think. and the subaru broke stuff doing trails the runner will laugh at....

sounds sweet! but like scott mentioned, stock gearing and 31s is too much. I had 27.5" tires on my blue wagon, and 29s on my black wagon. and 29s were too big. it had zero power. the door isn't that terribly limiting. there's still plenty of body to cut away there, and if you leave the pivot point up high (not all the way at the body with a 6" ), it'll push the rear wheel back on compression, making it a total non-issue. nooo, you want to give the Headlights to MEEEEE

cause on the EA82s, it runs in front of the crossmember. and you have to remove the Y-pipe to take it off....or cut it out. yea....I'm lazy that way.

well, Austin's got forester springs AND struts on his imp, for a real 3.5-4" of lift (not including tires). And he's driven it back and forth between WA and MN like 4 or 5 times in the last few years. He hasn't had any CV problems yet.

nope, every ford 4-lug car I've ever seen has been FAR too small... in fact, every 4-lug except peugeot and VW have been FAR too small...VW is just a little too small...

I see..you counted the larger tires as part of the lift...that explains it.

Looks sweet! did you use Outback struts? or just regular Legacy ones. The outback ones are almost identicaly to the forester ones....Judging from the space between the top of your tires and the spring perch, I'd bet they're outback ones. Also, I don't think there's any way you'd have gotten almost 4" of lift with just springs.

I drove my blue lifted wagon with the sway bar disconnected but still installed for months with no problems....

+1 for it not being a head gasket. Sounds more like intake manifold to me....and they're much more likely to go out than a head gasket...unless you totally F#$%ed them up on installation, but I'm assuming that's not it.

Oh yea, there was a defender at the first Crawl 4 the Cure, I believe (it may have been a different run....but I don't think so). We watched it play around on the rocks near the Mud Runs.....yea, it was pretty impressive!!

My uncle has a 2" lifted discovery...and man does it look sweet!! Hopefully he can come out with us next summer!

I've been looking for a rust-free 1st gen 4Runner since before Zap ever got his truck.... But don't think for a second that it's a coincidence that at least 3 of us upgraded to Toyota

I think a simple full frame would be best. just tie everything together, and it'll beef the whole system up. how are you going to get front ebrake? are you intending to go solid front and rear axles? or just rear? if you do both, you'll have to get pretty creative to get front calipers with handbrake brackets for the front.

IIRC that rig already has a sammy case.

my lifted EA82 easily got 28 mpg. my EJ-swapped loyale gets the same in the city under my lead foot. made a little road trip with our String Quartet. 4 people, instruments, and stands. usually cruising at about 60. easily saw 32 or more. a V8 will suck more gas than a subaru motor. assuming their both running well. I dont see why you bother arguing it. especially since you obviously don't want to do it for the mileage.

I doubt it could be done and maintain the 4WD system. and if that's the case....what's the point?! actually, what's the point at all? I'll take my all-aluminum 4-cyl with 4WD over anything with a V8 any day.

Just make sure you get the mounting points perfect. If the bellhousings are not perfectly aligned, it'll put lateral pressure on the pilot bearing, and the input shaft of the tranny. Just be sure to get things lined up right.

meh. if you use toyota 8" axles....just get real lockers. the dual ebrake thing is cool, but definately inferior to real lockers. nonetheless, it sounds like an awesome project. if I had had more time, and a welder/decent welding skills. I wanted to do this to my wagon. but, alas....other plans. good luck man!! and keep us posted!

I've got one of his plates. and had no worries about those 2 holes being too close. my worry with the offset bolt like 91loyale did, is getting it tight enough on the engine side. it wasn't that hard to get at the bolts on the engine. especially if you put the plate on the engine before dropping the engine in. and yea, if you go to an EJ trans down the road. just get longer bolts, and slip a nut on the back. there's room.

I'd be VERY worried about the rust. I've not ever seen one that's had cosmetic rust, that didn't have holes in the framerails. How do you know the unibody isn't rusted out? Get on the ground and look, even bring a small hammer and tap everything. scrape a little of it off....you get the idea. I've seen many of them (owned 2, actually) that the framerails fell apart long before there was any serious cosmetic signs. btw, it's NOT AWD, it's 4WD. if the owner is telling you it's AWD, make sure they knew you cannot drive it with it engaged on dry roads. if they did, the clutch pack may be shot. or you could just swap the front diff with the D/R trans that was in your legacy. and make it D/R!!

^^yep. keep in mind I'm running an EJ22 out of a legacy. I wouldn't be nearly as interested on an EA82. but the ECU of the newer car is a little smarter... and I have to replace much of the fuel lines in the car anyway....the #$$^%#@ salt did more damage than anything I could run through the inside of them.... and no. as far as the environment goes. E85 is not the answer. The only thing it does is give a little more work to the farmers. and burn a little cooler and higher octane for us ghetto boosted builders :cool:

So, as I mentioned in my other thread, I'm helping a buddy swap an EJ22t into his N/A gen 1 Legacy. as part of this swap, he's wiring in an aftermarket, standalone ECU. so we've got the entire dash out, and have been tinkering. so I took a few pics of what the car looks like with the dash off, but the wiring still in the car, and labled a few things worth noting. Also, these pics are with the HVAC ductwork still installed. this will all need to be removed to effectively pull all the wiring you'll need. but you can still see many of the connectors that you will later be working with here. I have resized these pics for posting on the general forums, but they will be in higher resolution, aswell as include better descriptions in the full write-up. hopefully to be ready for distribution by the end of the year.... Passenger side: in the center, towards the left, you can see the blower motor. The large grey metal box, with the black relay next to it, are parts of the cruise control unit. it's probably possible to get this to work in a swap. but will add a level of complexity. I would recommend using an EA cruise system, as it has it's own harness, and attaches to the throttle pedal...aswell as plugs right into the dash and steering wheel mounted buttons. Underneath the cruise box are a number of connectors that lead back into the rear of the car. virtually all of these are unneeded. they're for power locks, windows, tail lights, etc. all of these functions will still be controlled by the EA harness. although, I beleive the fuel pump wire does go back through there. but you can cut it off closer to the relay, and splice it into the EA harness under the dash. Drivers side: Here you can see where we've started marking each individual wire that goes to the ECU, since we will be cutting off the ECU plugs and splicing in others. For an EJ swap, you won't be doing this, but marking the wires may make identifying where they go much easier! also, I've circled the blue and white connectors under the steering column. These are the ones that go up into the Dash. you will need more than a few wires from this cluster, although it's easiest to identify them by tracing them from the ECU. (I have not found a good pinout of those connectors...) you may also want to remove the steering column, aswell as it's support bar. this well simplify the removal of the harness aswell. location of main/ignition, and fuel pump relays: This is in the farthest/highest left hand corner of the cabin. above and behind the ECU. The round 4-wire one with the green plug is the fuel pump relay, and the brown, square 6-wire one is the main/ignition relay. also, circled in red, is the large, grey connector, through which all of the wires that go out into the fender go through. you can undo this connector, which simplifies removal, and installation of the harness. I have a good pinout of this connector aswell... Circled in blue, are the green test mode connectors. the black read code connectors, and the select monitor connector should be near these...You'll want to save them (maybe not the select monitor, as there's nothing that a code reader could tell you that the flashing CEL can't...but the other 2 pairs, for sure!) another view of the relays: this is from a lower angle. you can see the ignition relay (circled) better. and the fuel one is just above it. The round relay with the white connector in the foreground is a headlight relay. you won't need to save these off the legacy donor.