Numbchux

yep, I used those generic adjustable coilover springs. stock impreza on the left, R1 racing coilovers, JDM STi ver 6? springs. I'm running those coilovers without the threaded perch on the bottom on the front. and it's adjusted way down in the back...

you will only need 2 relays. the main/ignition relay (brown, 6-wires), and the fuel pump relay (green plug, 4 wires). anything else you can ditch. also, there's no need to keep any of the fuse boxes. you'll only need a couple fused wires, so there's no point keeping the whole box. and yes, shift lock refers to the trans nightmare? you haven't even started yet...

hmmm...when I had those FWD impreza axles, I compared them to an EA82 axle, and they looked to be the same size... so, the only thing I can think of is that they might not be pulled all the way through the axles?

nope, same car, different rims. I love the H-alloys, but they have VERY crappy tires on them. so I threw them on for the cars debut at the local subaru club meet/hangout. then swapped back over to my wagon wheels with nice tires for daily driving. also, when I swapped the alloys off, I dropped the back ~1/2" to even it out a bit (notice the rake in the pic with the alloys?). anyway, now I've popped stock loyale wheel covers on the wagon wheels

you could say that my wagon is running a bit less than stock ride height: ~3" lower than stock 4WD ride height using universal 450/500 lb/in coilovers. running without the adjustable lower perch on the front.

yep, that's WITH cutting AND a lift. I meant 27s are about as much as you can got WITHOUT cutting and WITH a lift...trying to fit them without a lift, would involve quite a bit of cutting. I had 28s, and had to do some cutting/bashing in the rear, and a bunch in the front.

I don't know what kind of regulations or whatnot you may have for tow points. but most local places require BOLT-on tow points. not weld-on. that way they can look at the bolts, and see that they're grade 5 1/2" or bigger...and be done. it's alot harder to check a weld long story short, it'll be VERY difficult without making a steel bumper and integrating the two point into that.

you'll have to cut a bunch out of the both front and rear. that's about as big as you can go without cutting WITH a lift. cutting the back isn't any harder than cutting the front....

:banana: I guess I'll be making a cold, snowy trip to the junkyard over break!

looks like zaps old green brat... and a 6" lift might not be enough for a tcase... pretty sweet, though!

a 4-cyl XT is an EA82. some of them use a serpentine belt system instead of v-belt. and I believe XTs were the only car to get the N/A MPFI EA82.

I'd use the second one. header design didn't change much. and those ones were designed for a turbo engine....

hey, now there's a good point. my buddy's putting a ford 8.8 from an exploder into his wrangler cause the stock d35 ate it....

hi lift?

wow. but since it was on a carbed EA82....I think we can safely assume that it wasn't because of too much power

if you've got a power steering rack and a pump on the engine, it'll be plug and play. you can use either sets of lines, the EA lines will attach to the EJ pump, and the EJ line will attach to the EA rack. but, if you use the EJ lines, they'll be routed better, due to the difference in pump mounting locations.

3 times I've gotten the wrong one. splines are the right size, and fits in the clutch disc, but won't fit in the pilot bearing snug enough. so....I found a post, I believe by MilesFox, about tightening the pressure plate after the engine and tranny are attached. thread in all the bolts (I forget....6? or are there 8 of them...), but only finger tight. then bolt the engine and trans together. this way the clutch disc can move around behind the pressure plate. then tighten the bolts one at a time through the starter hole. make sure to go around a couple times to be sure they all get tight... it's worked great for 2 engine swaps, and one tranny swap. and it really simplifies mating the engine and tranny, because the disc can rotate, instead of trying to turn over the motor while putting pressure on the input shaft.

OOOOHH. I had completely misunderstood. the center bearing bracket bolted up? were the output flanges on the tranny different? I'll be sure to mention that in the write-up.

I beleve it has to match the body. as the center bearing bracket is pretty different for an EJ car.

time for some sturdy tow points, huh?

when the clutch went out in my lifted wagon, I replaced it with the cheapest thing I could find (reman'd). after that, I wheeled the crap out of it for 5 months or so (frequently needing to drag the clutch quite a bit...couple time where it actually smoked trying to get over something). then my engine seized. we took the motor out, and it sat in a wheelbarrow for about 3 months. then I took it off that motor, bolted it onto my EJ22, and dropped it into my loyale. it slipped a little for the first few days, but now it's holding strong. I'm only using a 4-cyl pressure plate, so I know it isn't the strongest. so I'm pretty careful, making sure to let the clutch fully engage before giving it much throttle....but it's holding very well...having been behind my EJ22 for a good 3 months now.... so yea....I had a good experience. but I'm pretty gentle on things. I drive hard, but only once the clutch is fully engaged. you mention in the first post that you could get the disc for $30....did you just replace the disc? because if your pressure plate is worn, it'll cause lots of slippage, and extra wear on the disc....

yes...now there's a good picture to be posting on the internet....

you'd be under-estimating them! just like everyone else that hasn't done it. :-p

I'm 90% sure that they're different diameter. I'll check in a couple days when I'm down at my parents' place (where most of my spare parts are...) if noone else confirms this.