Numbchux

I say go for it. I don't think anyone's run too much power through one yet. I intend to keep building up my motor until the tranny goes... The only downside, is the RX gearbox is geared very short for an EJ engine.

new. check out http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml just about anything he makes for a 4runner, I plan on buying! sliders, body lift, ball joint spacers, front diff drop kit, hi lift jack mount, and probably more. Occasionally this stuff comes up used for even less. I've seen many a set of ball joint spacers for $50 or less used. and yes, I know the rear disc swap is much cheaper on a subaru, I've bought 2 setups, and installed 3 (transplanted from one car when I parted it to another). paid about $100 for the first, and $40 for the second (local yard).

nice. I'll have to try that. I was just thinking, from looking at your pic, that you could trim the vertical part of the lower hose to accomodate more or less lift...I'll see what I can dig up. eddygordouk, I suppose you could, but it sounds identical to what I'm doing. I have acrobat proffesional aswell...and will be converting it to a pdf file with all the pictures I can find. This is just the first draft....

and you used the rear diff from the legacy? Suberdave had to use an adapter race to put WRX inner cups onto his EA82 shafts in his EJ20G swaps. but now that you mention it, the early Legacy stub axles work with the EA82 rear axles. I'll add that in there.

way cool! do you have any info on those hoses? my lower rad hose is one of the things that I'm not happy with. but thanks for the suggestions, I'll include those.

Sweet82 has one. but I don't think anyone else here has. His looks like a VERY cool setup, and I'm sure he'll chime in here soon...

nope...supras are dyno queens anyway....

Here's draft one of my EJ-swap writeup. it's still a somewhat crude .doc file, and still has nothing about the wiring (I don't even know where to start...). but I think the text is pretty much finished. Download EA2EJ.doc it's a MS Word .doc file. I have office 2003, so it may not work so well on older versions. however, let me know if anyone has any problems, and I'll save it as a .rtf or something. the final version will be in .pdf form, so that won't be as much of an issue. anyway, please read it, and see if there's anything that doesn't make sense, or incorrect. I've got lots of pictures and FSM diagrams for the wiring section. but what you see there is pretty much the extent of the pictures I have for the rest of the process. so if you've got anything that you think should be in there, or want to see something, I could try to take some pictures of my wagon. anyway...let me know what you guys think

EJ engines already have forged internals. and an EJ20G already has good compression for a turbo. no need to mess with it unless you're doing some crazy build. ditto on the cams. port and polish couldn't hurt, but would probably be much more work than it's worth (unless you've got some other reason to tear the engine apart)

from what I've heard, the 5.29s are fine, it's the 5.71s that you have to worry about. and for rock crawling, I'm gonna want as low as possible....I'll probably go dual tcases eventually aswell....

yea, but I think all 97-04 legacy were 2.5l. it's just the 95+ 2.2 that has single port exhaust. if they're dual port, they'll work....so those should work, as long as his picture is accurate.

Anyone have one? I'd like to add some good EA wiring diagrams for my EJ swap write-up. in fact, if anyone has an EA81 one....that would be also super helpful!!

I've finished compiling as much text as is needed regarding everything but wiring. I've decided not to use the Geocities site, just too hard to get that much information into a good format. anyway, I've got 9 pages, with 3 pictures, and nothing about wiring....everything touched on in this thread, and the one I linked in the first post, is included. anyone want to add anything? I'm starting on wiring now....tons of good information. I would like to get this .doc file uploaded to our school server for you guys to look over before I add all the pictures and import it into a .pdf file.

agreed! it looks like I've got my hands on an RX transmission (from a guy who thinks it'd be possible to put a viscous locking center diff from a mazda 323 gtx in it), and legacy 4.111 trans, so I'll be trying this soon.... only thing I need now, is a 1.59:1 lo range gearset, and I'll be seeing what I can do.

as far as axles go, all subarus are the same width. if you're using an STi tranny....use STi axles. if you're using a legacy, use your 25-spline impreza axles. ditto for an early WRX tranny. since you've got EJ knuckles, you'll have no more issues with axles than someone doing the swap into a newer car... did that make any sense? no need for a different radiator. I'd much rather use the EA radiator, since it actually was designed to fit into the chassis. plumbing it all together is rather simple. I too would recommend going to a standalone ECU, which will have it's own wiring issues. my buddy's going EJ22t in his legacy, and using a Link ECU. it came with a 2 meter wiring harness....enough so you wouldn't have to mess with the stock wiring harness one bit. I'm pretty much finished with the text portion of my writeup. I'll upload the MSWord document to my school account soon so you guys can read it over before I convert it to a pdf.

yea, unless you go divorced tcased. I think anything over 29s is doing more harm then good. and if you're only running 28-29s, anything over about 4" of lift is just hurting your center of gravity... and no, I don't need any more parts...I've got more EA82 parts than I know what to do with (I've been giving them to a couple buddies that have EA82s, aswell as numerous boxes with my last wagon I sold, and I still have shelves full)....just no DL quad headlights. I got an offer about a week ago to get a set, but I just don't have the money now anyway....someday, though....someday.

^^I think he was referring to the discovery in the origional video....did you watch it? apparently computer controlled everything!! my uncle's disco is like 10 years old with close to 200k miles on it....it hasn't had any problems. btw, I just saw a very sweet looking defender tool through Duluth today! I just thought it was pretty funny since we were just talking about it.

the viscous center diff is pretty strong. when Austin and I went up to the MN offroad park, he got high centered, but with both back wheels touching the ground, and one front wheel in the air. if the center was truly open, that one front wheel that was in the air would spin freely....but no, it spun, but at the same time, one of the back wheels dug a hole in the ground trying to get traction. I think the ideal situation would be LSD or welded rear, and dual handbrake on the front. the front diff is the only one that you don't and can't easily get a traction control device in....

now I'm confused. you said the suspension gave 1.5-2", plus the tires 2", gives 3.5-4". now you're saying it's 3+ without the tires? I'm not understanding something.... anyway, when my buddy upgraded to AGX's in his impreza, we checked it out. and the yeild barely as much travel as the stock struts. so I would imagine that forester AGXs wouldn't be an upgrade over stock forester struts except they're stiffer...

I will miss the confusion caused by rolling up to the offroad park in my subaru. but the only cost advantage the subaru has, is initial cost, and tires (35s cost a little more than 29s...). but I should be able to get this truck on 35s by spring with about $500. and I have an AT, gearing, and articulation. next summer...5.29 axle gears, and lockers (detroit rear, ARB front). the subaru was fun....but it's got nothing. 3" subaru body lift: I paid $350, but I think they're more now.... toyota 1.5" ball joint spacer for the front: $100 add-a-leaves for the rear: $50 2" body lift: $150 total 3.5" lift (half suspension too): $300 the lockers and gears will be uber expensive, but at least it's possible. rear disc conversion is a bit more expensive....but should easily be able to do it for less than $500. so yea, the subaru was cheaper, but not by as much as many people think. and the subaru broke stuff doing trails the runner will laugh at....

sounds sweet! but like scott mentioned, stock gearing and 31s is too much. I had 27.5" tires on my blue wagon, and 29s on my black wagon. and 29s were too big. it had zero power. the door isn't that terribly limiting. there's still plenty of body to cut away there, and if you leave the pivot point up high (not all the way at the body with a 6" ), it'll push the rear wheel back on compression, making it a total non-issue. nooo, you want to give the Headlights to MEEEEE

cause on the EA82s, it runs in front of the crossmember. and you have to remove the Y-pipe to take it off....or cut it out. yea....I'm lazy that way.

well, Austin's got forester springs AND struts on his imp, for a real 3.5-4" of lift (not including tires). And he's driven it back and forth between WA and MN like 4 or 5 times in the last few years. He hasn't had any CV problems yet.

nope, every ford 4-lug car I've ever seen has been FAR too small... in fact, every 4-lug except peugeot and VW have been FAR too small...VW is just a little too small...

I see..you counted the larger tires as part of the lift...that explains it.