Numbchux

I'd use the second one. header design didn't change much. and those ones were designed for a turbo engine....

hey, now there's a good point. my buddy's putting a ford 8.8 from an exploder into his wrangler cause the stock d35 ate it....

hi lift?

wow. but since it was on a carbed EA82....I think we can safely assume that it wasn't because of too much power

if you've got a power steering rack and a pump on the engine, it'll be plug and play. you can use either sets of lines, the EA lines will attach to the EJ pump, and the EJ line will attach to the EA rack. but, if you use the EJ lines, they'll be routed better, due to the difference in pump mounting locations.

3 times I've gotten the wrong one. splines are the right size, and fits in the clutch disc, but won't fit in the pilot bearing snug enough. so....I found a post, I believe by MilesFox, about tightening the pressure plate after the engine and tranny are attached. thread in all the bolts (I forget....6? or are there 8 of them...), but only finger tight. then bolt the engine and trans together. this way the clutch disc can move around behind the pressure plate. then tighten the bolts one at a time through the starter hole. make sure to go around a couple times to be sure they all get tight... it's worked great for 2 engine swaps, and one tranny swap. and it really simplifies mating the engine and tranny, because the disc can rotate, instead of trying to turn over the motor while putting pressure on the input shaft.

OOOOHH. I had completely misunderstood. the center bearing bracket bolted up? were the output flanges on the tranny different? I'll be sure to mention that in the write-up.

I beleve it has to match the body. as the center bearing bracket is pretty different for an EJ car.

time for some sturdy tow points, huh?

when the clutch went out in my lifted wagon, I replaced it with the cheapest thing I could find (reman'd). after that, I wheeled the crap out of it for 5 months or so (frequently needing to drag the clutch quite a bit...couple time where it actually smoked trying to get over something). then my engine seized. we took the motor out, and it sat in a wheelbarrow for about 3 months. then I took it off that motor, bolted it onto my EJ22, and dropped it into my loyale. it slipped a little for the first few days, but now it's holding strong. I'm only using a 4-cyl pressure plate, so I know it isn't the strongest. so I'm pretty careful, making sure to let the clutch fully engage before giving it much throttle....but it's holding very well...having been behind my EJ22 for a good 3 months now.... so yea....I had a good experience. but I'm pretty gentle on things. I drive hard, but only once the clutch is fully engaged. you mention in the first post that you could get the disc for $30....did you just replace the disc? because if your pressure plate is worn, it'll cause lots of slippage, and extra wear on the disc....

yes...now there's a good picture to be posting on the internet....

you'd be under-estimating them! just like everyone else that hasn't done it. :-p

I'm 90% sure that they're different diameter. I'll check in a couple days when I'm down at my parents' place (where most of my spare parts are...) if noone else confirms this.

it's about 50x worse for alloy wheels. if you have steelies, it's almost a non-issue....could be the explanation.

Touring wagon? my dad's 6' 3" and didn't really like our old legacy sedan. but we got a raised roof legacy, and now he's got a few inches to spare...but that's above his head. he still only barely has enough leg room.

actually, if you do that, I'll be you find that they feel tight. you have to get the wheels good and warm before re-torqueing. that first time I had the wheel fall off, I had been doing some brake work on that side...and I know I got them good and tight. but if you don't drive on them, and then re-torque, they'll work themselves loose. ever since, I tighten the lugs, then drive around the block a few times, doing 4 or 5 very good, hard stops, to get the brakes/wheels warm. THEN I put final torque on the lugs. you'd be suprised how loose they can get just driving around the block!

I had a drivetrain click on my '85 that I was so sure was an axle....then my wheel fell off.....I didn't make that mistake again :-\

just noticed these on 3bay. if anyones interested in inclinometers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260064367855 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-HILUX-SURF-INCLINOMETER-ALTIMETER-GAUGE-4RUNNER-92_W0QQitemZ260064398536QQihZ016QQcategoryZ46100QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

nice. I've been looking at the MRT system...but I think I'll go with a borla knockoff unequal length system. keep that wonderful rumble.

yep, they didn't start the FT4WD 5MT until '87...so maybe that's when they adopted the different gears...

yea, I suspected that. but with this setup. I'd be using the 3.7 pinion and ring gears. along with the RX center diff....so that shouldn't be a problem....if I can get the 1.6:1 lo range gears to work, I don't see any reason to lower the final drive. according to my FSM, all turbo 5MT models had the same gearing. whether part or full time, single or dual range. all had 3.7 final drive and 0.871 5th gear. it may have been different in other years....but it appears not in '89.

haha, you beat me to it....here's my idea for a solution... listing of common EJ gear ratios: http://www.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=181343 also, gen 1 legacy gearing from my '92 FSM FWD 5MT 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.738 FD: 3.70 AWD 5MT 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.783 FD: 4.111 So, inspired by Beefaru's el sweeto hybrid transmission, and the fact that I had a couple RX transmissions, and a legacy 4.111 AWD trans fall into my lap (and assuming, since he's got a forester 5-speed...that other EJ gears can be used). plus the EA82 N/A D/R trans I already have (although I did promise to sell it to a buddy....). Here's what I'm going for: EA82 N/A or AWD Legacy 1-4 (same ratios, I'm leaning towards the Legacy ones...assuming they're stronger) FWD Legacy 5th EA82 N/A lo range RX center diff and final drive (the guy who's giving me the RX trannies seems to think a Mazda 323 GTX viscous locking center coupler could be used....he's got one...so I plan on finding out...). This would give me: 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.70 Lo range: 1.592 which would mean, on stock tires (ignoring the fact that I'll probably be on bigger ones), this means that in 5th Hi, at 75, the engine would be turning a relaxed 2900 rpms. And, when lo range is engaged, it would be like having a final drive of 5.9:1. Which means, in 5th Lo, 5k rpms would be 78 mph. Which would work out perfect for even the fastest of courses. AND, still keep the locking center diff. While I have it all apart, I would really like to put in a front LSD. but that'll depend on the cashflow at the time

So, ever since my EJ22/Rx trans swap, I've been very unhappy with the gear ratios. so over the last few days, I've done a bunch of research on gearing, and what all came with what, and what I found was rather suprising. this is all from an '89 FSM first off, an N/A EA82 D/R 5MT 1st: 3.545 2nd: 1.947 3rd: 1.366 4th: 0.972 5th: 0.780 Final Drive: 3.90 Lo Range reduction: 1.592 EA82 turbo FT4WD 5MT (RX or GL/-10) 1st: 3.545 2nd: 2.111 3rd: 1.448 4th: 1.088 5th: 0.871 Final Drive: 3.70 Lo Range reduction: 1.196 Myth: Because of the final drive, the turbo trans would yield lower rpms at cruise...right? well, punch those numbers into a gear calc (like the one on Subarubrat's Website). using the stock tire height of 23", cruising at 75 mph with a turbo trans means 3500 rpms, while using an N/A trans, means 3300 rpms. BUSTED

that's what I assumed...but it's not how it works. the gears are different. the 5th gear in the RX trans is so much lower, that despite the higher final drive, it actually cruises at higher rpm. the RX trans is the only 5MT trans that subaru has made (that I could find...anyway) where 4th gear is not an overdrive....5th is .871 on an RX, and .780 on an N/A D/R trans. punch that into a gear calculator, and at 75 mph, using 23" for tire diameter, the RX gearing means about 3500 rpms, and an N/A gearbox means 3300... and an N/A EA82 gearbox has virtually identical gearing to most EJ 5MT transmissions. I've been looking alot into gearing lately....because I really don't like the high rpms the engine has to turn while on the freeway. And I make lots of freeway trips, at 75-80mph for hours at a time. That said, I'd still rock the RX trans. common beleif seems to be that an EA82 trans can't hold up to much power, but I haven't seen anyone destroy one....