Numbchux

you could wire it in after the ECU. since you've already got the harness out, it wouldn't be too hard....I might try this next summer when I have things apart again.

maybe. if there's any binding, it won't come out immediately. if you drive it a ways in a straight line first, it'll probably come out right away....

It's a good trans, for sure. but it's not perfect. every morning I pull into the school parking lot and lean into the throttle, and spin my inside front tire......I hate to think what it'll be like on an AutoX course. I'll just have to get some real sticky tires, I guess.

that's my project for the spring. I've got a guy that used to be big into the older subarus, that thinks a mazda 323 GTX viscous locking center diff could be put into an RX trans.... but you could put an ej viscous non-locking center in one, as long as you transfer the pinion gear aswell. one of these days, I'm going to get some pictures of the fully disassembled legacy 4.111 AWD 5MT trans that I have on my workbench in the basement. that should help...

my understanding is that because the bore is larger, and the pistons are different the ratio is the same...but I don't exactly understand. you can put slightly larger injectors on and have the ecu compensate for it. it just uses the signal from the O2 sensor to determine how much fuel needs to be added, and adjusts accordingly. if the injectors are larger, it'll just reduce the voltage so the flow is the same....

a viscous center diff on a subaru 5-speed works the same as a viscous rear diff. even torque split without load, but some speed difference is possible. the auto is a whole different animal... in this thread about the RX trans, I wrote: "I just spent 4 days with the MNSubaru at the annual Ice Race event. and quickly found out that the locked center really wasn't any different than the viscous center in the EJ cars, except you don't need to unlock them when you get out on the street. AND, you have some traction control on the street. if you try to accelerate hard out of a corner on the street (center diff needs to be unlocked) you'll get unlimited wheelspin on the inside front wheel, and no traction. and with the EJ22 ... , the extra torque means it's faster to drive in hi-range, and shift less frequently also, don't let the 3.7 axle ratio fool you, the gears are much shorter, and you'll be running much higher rpm's on the freeway." also, I went wheeling with Austin about a year and a half ago, and he got high-centered with both front wheels off the ground. and the center LSD was strong enough to dig a hole under one of the rear wheels with the front wheels freewheeling... IMHO, the RX tranny is pointless unless a front LSD, taller 2-5 gears, and lower lo range are added, or it's mated to the engine for which it was designed...

not changing the compression at all (or much....anyway), just the displacement. AND, the stock EJ22e ECU is capable of compensating for quite a bit. especially if coupled with higher flow injectors.

yep. I believe the only S/R 5-speed EA82s were loyales and DLs. so if it truly is a GL, it has a D/R. the auto's were all single range though....maybe that's what you were seeing.

I assume since you say you 'finally' got it running that it wasn't running or was disassembled for some time? well, they need some time to get the oil to circulate completely. my EA82 really scared me last fall. but I let it run for about 10 minutes, and the noise had gone away... just an idea...but I don't know a lot about EA81s, so i could be wrong :-\

it does. if the engine get's warm, so does the thermostat housing...but as soon as you put rubber between the engine and the sensor, you'll lose that ability.

yep, I've heard lots of horror stories about wheel adapters. broken adapters, broken lug studs, etc. also, the offset change is really bad for your wheel bearings.

^^what he said... the driveshaft doesn't have a splined slip yoke on the diff end like the tranny does. it's got a flange with 4 bolts. any r160 rear end will work. which is any subaru except STi, which have r180s. STis do have a 3.9 axle ratio though, so if you could find a way to mount it up, it would work. but you'd have to be pretty creative about the axles. your best bet is a clutch-type rear end from a turbo EA82. or a VLSD from an early legacy turbo (5-speeds were 3.9).

it just cleans up the look. little color things like that really help the look of a car. if you're not going for looks at all, I can understand that. but IMHO, clear corners, and colored calipers can really add to a cars look, as long as it's done in moderation! especially since it's cheap!!

without a doubt, driver incompetence there. My Ej22 wagon tracks perfectly straight with all 4 wheels spinning on ice. see my thread in the Rally/Racing section to see some pics of my wagon powersliding. the MNSubaru club spent an entire weekend with almost 35 EJ-powered subarus on ice, and nobody had any crazy BS like that. just driver error.

rear diff is easy if you match the gear ratio as already mentioned. tranny can't be done without swapping the engine too. the driveshaft end is the same, but the bellhousings are different. you're EA engine bellhousing is about 1/2" too deep, so the EJ tranny input shaft won't reach the clutch plate.

I wouldn't even consider putting the temp sensor in a heater hose. if you don't have coolant, your gauge is wrong. i.e. at the MNSubaru ice races, my lower radiator hose slipped off (appears that I just didn't get the clamp tight enough) and I lost all the coolant. I noticed the temp sensor creeping up to what would be normal temp, and knew that was too high. I get out and look, and sure enough, the radiator is cold and empty. put that hose on, tightened the clamp, and poured some more coolant in, and it's been running nice and cool ever since. I've seen a number of aftermarket gauges that have universal, metric mounting adapters. so I think I'm going to go that way. but here's my gauge at normal operating temperature (my radiator fan is on): and yes, I know my oil pressure gauge isn't working. I indent to try to fix that this summer aswell.

go to a junkyard and get a stocker. noone will be interested, especially since it's non-DIN and therefore won't fit in anything else.

I do to, but looks are somewhat important too. and subtle little things like clear corners can really help. especially if it's cheap. I'm going to try to bake them like the newer guys do to remove the coloring. and see if that works...

then 7 times out of 10, you'd be wrong. subaru's are awesome, considering they're just a little car with 4WD, but they really don't have anything against a real truck. the only advantages a subaru has, stock for stock, is weight and turning circle. and a lifted one has impressive ground clearance for only 27-29" tires, but still only an inch or so better than a stock toyota, and the approach angle still sucks....and after a drivetrain lift and bigger tires on the Toy, you've got nothing there either. not to mention the aftermarket support!! don't get me wrong guys, I love subarus, and they're insanely impressive for what they are. but they are just that....under-built, and under supported for rock crawling. But, once I have the space and money for it, I'll have another lifted subaru, and it'll be an all out one too, EJ22, welded rear, LSD front, dual handbrake, maybe divorced tcase and a 4EAT. but for the ease of modification, and the availability of parts, I've got a yota for now. Not to mention the fact that I don't have a welder, or garage.

Holy 3 Year Old Thread Batman!!!

yep, and ditto the XT bracket. and the XT pitch stopper won't need any mods I haven't been able to find a junked 5MT legacy or XT yet (lots of rust in this part of the world....so the selection is always slim). so I've been running without....with no noticeable effects yet...*knock on wood* these options are covered in my write-up

like austin said, definately would work mechanically, but the wiring would be quite in-depth. also, IIRC the EZ30 (might just be the EZ30R) has 2 coolant outputs on the top of the engine, and one input on the bottom, so you'd have to use the radiator to match the engine. the EZ30R is virtually impossible to run in anything but it's factory configuration on a stock ECU. the hydra is possible, but pretty difficult. but an EZ30 would be similar to doing a WRX swap. I have some EZ30 plans myself, actually

yep, and it's activated electronically.

there really isn't a good freeway combination in any EA82 tranny. the ones with a 3.7 axle ratio have lower 4th and 5th gears so they're actually worse. not that bad of a swap, just have to swap the inner axle cups and rear diff aswell. but there really aren't any gains (unless you're going for the full-time 4WD). I'm working on a hybrid trans so I can get some better gearing, but it won't help much. it sounds great that it has 2 overdrives, but the axle ratios and tire sizes kill any advantages you might get. check out the gear ratios here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gear-ratios.htm