Numbchux

they would be somewhat similar. but the ER27 is a much bigger motor. probably weighs more, won't fit in your engine bay (as Skip said...what to do with the radiator), etc. I would (and did...) go with the EJ22. in my experience, it's a more reliable motor. more potential for modification. 200 awhp could be pretty easily done with the stock EJ22 harness (add in a Perfect Power 6 for fuel control). the ER27 is pretty limited in modifications. you could do a complete bottom-up build of it, lower the compression, etc. but you'd still only be able to put a few pounds of boost into it....and you'd have a lower compression ratio as a result. the EJ22 can already take that, and the aftermarket possibilities make much more power possible... the only reason we talked about doing the ER27 swap into my buddies EA82 wagon, was we almost got a donor car for free....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63440 more updated info

wow, very cool..... good luck on this!

like what? nothing to it. custom headers and up-pipe to go behind the xmember and axle, (no need for turbo crossmember). TD04 WRX turbo, WRX TMIC, aftermarket boost controller. that's it. stock motor, stock ECU, stock injectors. he added an AFR meter, and he's been pretty close to stoich. He runs an e85 mix to raise his octane, but other than that, nothing fancy. he goes to the dyno at the end of march (same dyno day I'm going to....hopefully), after which, he'll be adding a rising rate fuel pressure regulater, and larger injectors, and turning up the boost even more. his motors got 230k miles on it, 15-20k since the boost. still gets 160psi compression at all four corners. the most important thing to remember here, is he's got a built EJ22t closed deck turbo motor in his garage. he has no intent of allowing this motor to last. his only goal is to blow it into little pieces. BUT, so far, no signs of damage. then there's dave, reddevil, who's got a supercharger on his 90 legacy. he blew a few motors at 7psi or less with a piggy back ECU for fuel control once he started using the Nitrous.

yea...but 2.2l vs 2.5l. you might find problems there. it'll probably be able to compensate for the different amount of air/fuel needed...but I'm not sure.

I just realized I've got a Subaru Part number Quick reference guide that's good up until 2004.... so.....these are all for imprezas -6/98 EJ25, DOHC: 11044AA471 7/98+, SOHC: ...521 EJ251, Vins 200009-200303: ...521 EJ251, Vins 200304+: ...631 EJ257: ...641 2003 Forester EJ255 (FXT): ...641 so. it appears that the SOA part numbers are not the same for the STi motor and any other pre 2004 2.5l. but Cometic ones might be. and I also don't have the part numbers for the '06 2.5l in the WRX, but since the FXT uses the same as the STI, I would assume the same is true. and just because they have different part numbers, doesn't meant they're not interchangeable....but it is interesting to campare

as in....brake drum? yep, the 'axle' nut is all that holds it on (I know...I had the nut fall off while I was driving....). get a rubber mallet, and go to town on it. or a regular maul. just need to shake it loose. if it's really tough, you may need a big puller. I've never had to on a subaru, but we have on other cars (caravan, Jettas, etc.)

my donor car had 230k on it. I've put almost 20k on it since then....still runs like a top. 160psi compression at all 4 corners. PP6 and boost to come this summer.... they're bullet-proof. if they haven't been over-heated or run out of oil, that is.

says who? I've got a buddy running 10psi through his EJ22E, with no aftermarket management. he's put about 15k miles on it since then, and it runs as good as it ever did. dyno in a month or so.... I intend to push about 6-7psi through mine this summer.... sweet swap. can't wait to see it finished!

what ECU are you using? sounds like you're using the EJ22 heads and intake aswell as the shortblock. what MAF?

that would screw with your CR, and probably be weaker. actually, a thinner headgasket would probably be stronger. but, again, that would screw with your CR. although not as much, and in a better direction. I would suspect that they're interchangeable to a point. since the heads are interchangeable....you might have to cut an extra oil port in it or something, but I doubt it.

I would assume so on both accounts. there have been a number of people that bolt them to the STi 6MT. and since that's interchangeable with the 5MT....

someone just asked almost this exact same question: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70893

IIRC, the problem is the roof isn't the same dimensions. width, and the general shape. tim did it, but it was a total Pain. these are from his photo album here on the board: and the cheese grater pic:

in the grand scheme of things, 205s are very skinny tires. I had 215s on my blue wagon, and the Poopenvagon had 230s. my 4Runner has 10.5" (265mm) wide tires on it, and will be getting 12.5" (315) wides....those are getting to be some pretty fat tires. there really isn't that much option when you're talking about subarus. when you're only dealing with 27-29" tall tires, they're pretty much all skinny. you can't buy 28x12.5 on 14/15 inch tires. that'd be like a 315/55r15. for perspective. a WRX comes with 205/55r16s

you could, but you'd need to put a slip joint in the middle, otherwise you'll hyper-extend them in a heartbeat. me and a few buddies are looking at doing something like this...

yep, it's an XT6 motor. his is built to about 250 hp....but still an ER27.

well, I assume you've checked everything. that sounds like the nut on the top of the strut isn't tight enough. that happened to my dad on our caravan, our spring compressors couldn't get enough tension off the spring, so no matter how much we cranked on the nut with the impact wrench, the tophat still wasn't tight enough, and would rattle under the weight of the car. I would check that nut first. it should not be able to move, at all. even without a spring on there, the tophat should not be able to move. whatever it is, I highly doubt it has anything to do with your minor alignment issue.

I assume you are going to try it....let me know what you come up with. I'm dragging my feet on the final touches of the write-up to get some concrete info about this....

either one should work. the only difference might be driveshaft length. but I'm pretty sure sedans and wagons are the same. only the 3-door coupes are different.

nice pics. I just noticed your title, "Put up or shut up". That's the exact name of one of the trails at the park up here. I've walked by it a couple times....and let's just say, I've shut up

well, Sako's got it right, but I thought I'd post a picture. you'll need the trans, linkage, and this: that's from my old 1985 GL wagon. it's now bolted up to my 1992 Loyale. 14 bolts, and a couple fuel/brake line brackets, is all that holds that on. this can come from an Auto trannied car, but the front half of the driveshaft will be shorter. it's quite a simple swap. the tranny isn't too bad, and it's a good time to put a new clutch in there too. the rear diff hanger (or mustache bar, you can see it bolted to the back of the diff there...) has 2 brackets, with 2 bolts each, that need to be bolted to the frame rail. there are no holes there, but a drill and tap will fix that. the hardest part is the driveshaft's center carrier bearing bracket. you can also see that in the pic, right next to the middle U-joint. the little plates that that would bolt to on a 4WD car are not there on a FWD car. you could weld them there, maybe have a driveline shop make you a custom one-piece driveshaft (was quoted $150 at one shop, and $800 at another...). or, just get some metal strip, cut a couple 6" long pieces with a hole in either end, and bend it to bolt through the side of the driveshaft tunnel, and then to the bearing bracket. That's what I ended up doing, and it's worked great so far. as far as lifts. there's lots of information around here. but options are limited. Allied Armament doesn't make lifts anymore, and I've heard that PK Davis (the man responsible for making BYB/Ozified lifts here in the US) isn't making them for the time being. so that leaves you with SJR. which is ok, because he makes, by far, the best product available. you can find his lifts at http://www.sjrlift.com

yea, but if you describe the noise, we can help diagnose it, and save you some money....

I shall inquire. it may take a little while, as it's a friend of a friend....but I'll see what may be possible. I'll also see if the dealer can get new ones to start with. our local club gets a 20% discount on parts, so I'll see what kind of possibilities we see there.

agreed. but at least you got the right one this time :-\