Numbchux

match your starter setup to the tranny and flywheel combo. so yes, EA82, no spacers needed.

So, after the ice race last weekend, my steering started acting goofy. at first I thought it was just the pump, which I had suspected to be going out for awhile. then I noticed that the steering doesn't center itself while moving anyway, after talking to my dad for awhile, he reminded me that we used the crossmember and steering rack from my '85, and that one of the tie rod boots was torn (and had been since I bought the '85, years ago). so now it's sticking, feels like there are about 4 spots in the full range that it sticks, anything between those spots works fine, power steering at all, but once you get to them, it takes both hands to overpower it. any short-term fixes that I could try without replacing the rack (kinda low on $$, and a good work space)? greasing something, etc.?

WELL.....that's not offroad like we're used to. you won't be using a low range at all. definitely a legacy. better motor, stronger drivetrain, more aftermarket support (You'll be VERY hard pressed to find upgraded suspension for the older subarus). or better yet, an early impreza, same motor (available, make sure you get the 2.2l, not the 1.8), same drivetrain, lighter body.

the regulator should be on the return side, the high pressure side (from the pump/filter) goes opposite that.

theoretically, disconnecting the battery at all should clear the codes, but I think there's a little residual power that might require a few seconds at least. when I've wanted to clear them, I leave the neg battery terminal disconnected for a couple minutes while doing something else, and that's been enough. long story short...the codes aren't left over from the liberty. whatever codes it's throwing, it's found them since the install in your brumby. when I originally started my swap, I had planned to completely replace the EA harness with the EJ one.....I spent about a month trying to get that to work, and in the end, it was easier to backtrack (including pulling another loyale harness from a junkyard to replace mine) and strip the EJ harness to just run the motor.

the legacies don't have true 4WD, and the lo range (if you have them in sweden) isn't very low. the brat 4-speeds also aren't anything to write home again. but the leone (EA82) dual range 5-speed is the way to go.

for the carrier bearing, I think the best way is to make brackets for it. I used some metal strip, cut 2 6" long pieces, bent them at an angle so when set flat along the driveshaft tunnel, the bottom would be horizontal, then drilled a whole in the tunnel on each side, and bolted them on there. it's worked great so far....

my girlfriend comes all the time. and I constantly push my rig to, or beyond, it's limit. heck, now that I've got something with just the 2 pedals...she'll probably be driving it

typically....chevy wheels will sick out beyond the fenders quite a bit, toyota's are more accurately matched to subaru specs.

linky no worky

other side of the CEL needs power. the ECU grounds it.

the fuel circuit is one of the simplest ones in the harness, if this one doesn't work, something else won't work either. make sure there is power going to the relay, and continuity to the pump, from there, it's just one wire to the ECU. and if the ECU isn't grounding the fuel relay, it probably either doesn't have power or ground somewhere, or no signal from the crank/cam angle sensors. if it comes on with the ignition, but not while cranking....it's probably the sensor. and if it's not coming on at all, it's a power/ground somewhere.

me too. I think that would be a very good idea.

2 seperate things. I frequently would push my wagon to the absolute limit, sometimes getting stuck too, without doing any body damage. in fact, pretty much the only time I did any serious body damage, was either doing something stupid, or wheeling in the snow (off camber, sliding sideways into a tree). although, I agree, I don't want to see it get bashed up. hopefully he's somewhat careful with it.

on an EA82 wagon right?! yea, the bottom flips forward so the backs can fold down flat. just fold the bottom forward, and on the passenger side there's a rubber boot where the fuel pump wires come through.

not sure what to tell you about the power....I noticed a HUGE improvement over the EA82, which is theoretically about 90hp. the biggest difference was in the lower end torque, the 22 pulls 100% from 2k rpms than any of the EA82s I've had did. you've got the wrong connectors connected. the test mode connectors will cycle the fuel pump on and off, you need to plug in the read mode connectors (I believe they're green). what temp setup are you using? stock sender?

I've seen 2 XT6s, one was archemetis' and he still drives it. and the other was in a junkyard, I have it's sway bars, alternator, seats, 5-lug stuff, and a few other things..... this news makes me that much more excited that I got them when I had the chance

unfortunately I haven't remembered to check while I'm at advance, and this week I'm at my parents' house, and there aren't any nearby... I did get it at Advance Auto Parts, and IIRC the fan itself was $30-$40, and the temp-sensing relay was $15-20 btw....the blizzard up here seems to have knocked out my relay....the fan is not coming on, I haven't been able to diagnose the problem...

that's why I put etc. for the EJs....I couldn't remember all the combinations.

I see a bungee cord....

honestly, I don't remember what I did with the alt. it was the LAST thing to get done, and I was in an uber hurry....and I've had zero problems with it since. so I haven't pulled the tape off. I know I wired it so the EJ loom gets it's power straight from the battery, so the EJ alt just gets wired to charge the battery, essentially. my alt/charge/whatever light doesn't work.... and one wire went unused. I soldered them. they're thick, but it can be done, just takes longer. I wouldn't think about using crimp-on butt splices

yep, axle ratio is dependant on what center diff you use. if you're using a PT center, you have to use a 3.7 or 3.9 pinion from a PT box. if you're using a FT center, you have to use a 3.7 or 3.9 (XT6) pinion from a FT box. if you're using an EJ center, you have to use an EJ pinion (3.9, 4.111, 4.444, etc.) no mixing and matching without severe modification. BUT, the point of THIS thread, is that you can put any 5MT front diff carrier into any other 5MT case, i.e. a front LSD for a WRX 5MT into an RX 5MT.

we are splitting hairs to a point, but I don't want the wrong information to go unchecked. they're basically the same in design. the ATs are identical, but the MTs are very different in function. take them both on the street and try to accel hard while turning hard. with a FT4WD MT, you get nothing but wheelspin at one front corner, do it with AWD, and the viscous center is strong enough to allow the car to actually accelerate. or in the deep snow (like we've had for the last few days), if I forget to lock up my center, I just spin a front wheel. lock it up, and that all changes. the viscous would be enough to get me through most of that without the locker. a limited slip is just that, it does still allow slip, so in some situations, it will allow all the power to go to one side, and they also wear out, so the effectiveness might vary. but all EJ AWDs came with a LSD center, MTs with a viscous, and ATs with a mechanical clutch pack.

yes, you can. some of the connectors might be different, but an OBDI ECU and harness can control an OBDII engine.

sorry....but that's 100% wrong. the autos aren't viscous, but they have a clutch pack that limits the slip....but ALL AWD EJ subarus have a limited slip center diff. of somesort. I will agree with you in that the 4EAT FT4WD and AWD trannies are the same. but both have the clutch pack limited slip, favoring the front. which, in an extreme offroad situation (one that you probably can't get in without a lift), will slip. phiz has it right (be sure to read his edit....he's got ATs covered too)