Numbchux

yep, axle ratio is dependant on what center diff you use. if you're using a PT center, you have to use a 3.7 or 3.9 pinion from a PT box. if you're using a FT center, you have to use a 3.7 or 3.9 (XT6) pinion from a FT box. if you're using an EJ center, you have to use an EJ pinion (3.9, 4.111, 4.444, etc.) no mixing and matching without severe modification. BUT, the point of THIS thread, is that you can put any 5MT front diff carrier into any other 5MT case, i.e. a front LSD for a WRX 5MT into an RX 5MT.

we are splitting hairs to a point, but I don't want the wrong information to go unchecked. they're basically the same in design. the ATs are identical, but the MTs are very different in function. take them both on the street and try to accel hard while turning hard. with a FT4WD MT, you get nothing but wheelspin at one front corner, do it with AWD, and the viscous center is strong enough to allow the car to actually accelerate. or in the deep snow (like we've had for the last few days), if I forget to lock up my center, I just spin a front wheel. lock it up, and that all changes. the viscous would be enough to get me through most of that without the locker. a limited slip is just that, it does still allow slip, so in some situations, it will allow all the power to go to one side, and they also wear out, so the effectiveness might vary. but all EJ AWDs came with a LSD center, MTs with a viscous, and ATs with a mechanical clutch pack.

yes, you can. some of the connectors might be different, but an OBDI ECU and harness can control an OBDII engine.

sorry....but that's 100% wrong. the autos aren't viscous, but they have a clutch pack that limits the slip....but ALL AWD EJ subarus have a limited slip center diff. of somesort. I will agree with you in that the 4EAT FT4WD and AWD trannies are the same. but both have the clutch pack limited slip, favoring the front. which, in an extreme offroad situation (one that you probably can't get in without a lift), will slip. phiz has it right (be sure to read his edit....he's got ATs covered too)

I'm no carb expert....so my assistance is limited. BUT, I suspect your problem is similar to my initial problems with my EJ22 swap (just for different reasons). I was getting spark....just not at the right time. like stngllhm said, check and double check your spark plug wires, and be sure you've got the disty set right.

I understand and honor your decision to keep the carb.....cause I can't make a carb run right to save my life (well...I got that weed wacker to run pretty smooth....but that didn't take much). it's an awesome project, and i can't wait to see it when it's done!!

the ECU is not controlling the fan on my wagon....

yep, the black wire with the red stripe is just a ground. they just share the same ground, but are completely separate circuits. the functionality of the neutral switch has no effect on your ability to read the codes. (I don't have mine hooked up....I can pull codes just fine....one of them is just for the neutral switch...).

as far as I can tell the 2 pins you speak of have nothing to do with the trans in any way. they just go straight to the test and read mode connectors. if one of those wires are grounded, it activates the respective mode. I believe the neutral switch CEL comes on if it remains in either position for an abnormal length of time. on EA cars, the switch is on the clutch pedal...so you could still wire it in there if you want. the neutral switch doesn't effect reading the codes. but if that wire is not hooked up to the neutral switch, it will throw a code. here's a simplified diagram of that section. I've labeled the 3 pins you mentioned....and the big circled "A" eventually gets to an engine ground.

I say it's overrated...not junk. it's definitely a sweet motor. but the 22e can take 300+, and are a dime a dozen by comparison. reddevil is living proof of that. probably seeing close to 350 awhp. and keeps blowing up 22t pistons because he beats the crap out of it. the cylinder walls are not the weak point.

short version....no in order to get the camber adjustment, you need the struts AND knuckles. and EA hubs and axles aren't compatible with EJ knuckles, baccaruda got his XT6 calipers to bolt to his legacy knuckles...but IIRC it took alot of fabrication. the easier way, would be to modify the control arm (or the point where it bolts to the crossmember) to push the bottom of the knuckle out slightly. of course, then you'll run a slightly higher risk of over-extending the front axles....

well, wiring it up to work on the stock ECU is pretty easy, just have to move a few wires, the plugs are the same on the ECU, just a few wires are different. I've uploaded a full ECU pinout that covers both turbo and N/A models.... BUT, if you're planning on pushing enough power to justify going closed deck, it'd be just plain dumb to run the stock ECU. get a standalone and wire it in there. and if you're running a standalone, you might as well upgrade the heads..... the open deck motor can take a ton of power (like 300awhp or more) with a piggy back and lower CR pistons. your options are endless and IMHO the 22t is very overrated (and overpriced....)

I think that's right.... but you could hook up the oil light from the ECU and see for sure.

AWESOME!!! :banana: great feeling isn't it?

ooooooo.....clutch looks VERY sexy! I'll probably be looking for something like that this summer (If I can't get my hands on an EJ D/R tranny case.

if it is, indeed, an R160, it will fit in the carrier, and the ring gear will bolt up. (although a 3.7 ring gear may need some grinding to fit over a carrier made for a 3.9.). the only difference might be the stubs....

I don't remember what wire it is, you'll have to check the wiring diagrams to figure it out exactly. I'm not sure what you're asking besides that...

just the wire that switches the main relay. that should give power to the rest of your EJ harness, depending on how you have it wired. and, a wire for the starter circuit. if you're using the EA starter relay/circuit (IMHO, this is the FAR easier way....), than you'll just need to tap in from between the switch and the relay for the ECU. if you're using the EJ starter relay, then you just need to tap into the switch.

yea, that's what I said in my first post. gauge cluster, steering wheel, heat/A/C control, etc. well, if you have to tear them apart anyway, lay them out on the ground next to each other and take a look. but I think you'll find there are a lot of differences...

I'm pretty sure, at the very least, that the wiring is routed completely different for the older style. I would assume so since the switches are in completely different places. and, IIRC, the plugs are completely different...they may use the same pins and wiring, but I don't think the whole dash is interchangeable. I just found the gauge cluster from my '85 feedback carbed EA82, and it has a 6k rpm redline....

I'm fairly certain the dash uses a different harness for the windshield wipers, headlights, parking lights, flashers etc. BUT, I do know that the steering wheel, gauge cluster, and heat/AC control will swap right over. ditto on the dash clock (different plug there, but the wires are the same color...so you can easily splice it to make it work). I did all of those in my '85 with parts from a '87-'89 GLs. By the time I parted that thing out, the lame orange-colored back lighting was almost completely gone! if you do swap gauge clusters....make sure you take note of where the redline is. I did my swap pretty early on in it's life, and only realized after the fact that the carbed motors have a 6k rpm redline, and the FI ones had 6500....so my occasional trip to 7k and beyond was a bit harder on it than I thought

Jutboy's got an auto. jdm wrx tranny gears are the same to US, they got some improved stuff with the STi and type R/RA stuff....but that's a minimal improvement. but drag racing (specifically hard launching from a stop) isn't nearly as common over there. JutBoy. be careful not to underestimate your cost. you will still need oil and coolant lines for the turbo, you should get an intercooler (cooler intake temps help the engine run smoother...), engine management etc. catch me on AIM and we can talk about it...

well....I did it this morning. it was parked on the street during the blizzard (70mph wind gusts....18" snow since yesterday afternoon), and spent about 20 minutes digging it out of the parking place (the road had not yet been plowed), and got a little momentum. but the first cross street I came to, a snowmobiler had been driving up and down, so it was all hard packed. well, my little 155-80s cut right through the snow, until they weren't touching anymore....I could let out the clutch, and get out of the car....all 4 tires spinning free at idle.... walked back to the house, got a metal spade, and started un-packing from under the car....about a half hour later, it sunk enough that I could move it. I suppose it doesn't help that my car is sitting ~3" lower than a stock 4WD... good news is, I got to park my car in my girlfriend's garage today....and the ice melted from my radiator fan...so it works again now

yea, but I know of a couple people who blew a hole in the top of the block.....I thought because of broken rods.... I'd hate to see that happen to a 12k mile motor

um....read the 2 posts above your own. here are some pics that someone posted on MNSubaru a while ago... EJ20G (ver 1-2: closed) EJ20k (ver 3-4: open) ej205/207 (ver 6, 7) dead link...anyone have a pic? EJ20 (USDM WRX) also dead... EJ257 (USDM STi), GREAT example of semi-closed deck. the EJ20/205/207 ones are much like this EJ25 (RS) EJ22t (closed) some other interesting things I found while digging up those pics: all stock subaru pistons are made of the same material, and same process (some argument as to whether they are hypereutectic, or just thermalflow), just different compression ratio. the phase I EJ22E is 9:1, whereas the EJ22t is 8:1. if you're shooting for less than 10 psi of boost, the higher compression will be fine (and will yield faster spool). if you're running about 10, you can drop the CR ever so slightly by using the 22t Head gaskets (about 8.8:1), which are an entire mm thicker (or a bit more by using 22t pistons and 22e gaskets, about 8.2:1). of course, if you're only running 10 psi or so through it....there's no reason to go closed deck. only really need that if you're going up into the 25 psi range. if you want to put a little more money into it, wiseco makes an 8.5:1 CR piston for the 22t, but that requires an overbore.