Numbchux

that gear oil is way too heavy. I'm running 85w-90, and it's noticeably heavy in the cold (i.e. below zero....start engine, drop clutch into neutral....engine dead). put some lighter stuff in there, I also HIGHLY recommend a half quart of Rislone Engine (you heard me right) Treatment instead of some of the gear oil. it really helps the synchros mesh! also, I bet your CEL is the neutral start switch. it's figured out that you're driving around, but the switch still says it's in neutral. So it says something is wrong. you could wire the switch into a switch on the clutch pedal....or live with it.

that should give you a decent start, I'm sure someone will chime in later with better descriptions and fill in any holes

and get some adjustable struts from an '85-'86 GL. that'll give you a good inch or 2 (I wouldn't adjust them all the way up though....that's a little much on the CVs)

well, I rolled my car up on the ramps today....the mounts have not torn. They're the square mounts, and appear to have soaked up the difference in angle.

go EJ... in all honesty, I'd check the basics, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter etc.

that was my belt. less than 24 hours after buying my black '88 lifted wagon about a year ago. the PO changed the belts and the tensioners, but not the idler. and, as it turned out, used the wrong bolts for the tensioners, which later stripped out I've gotten a full timing kit with all 3 pulleys from ebay for less than $100 a couple times.

I've heard from many sources that you should get a winch rated at twice the weight of the rig it's on....

yep, need an outer stub to hold the wheel on only need to do it to one side...

$165+shipping for an adapter plate (check the vendor section. or http://www.mroseusa.com ) $35 for a cheap dremel + a couple hours of careful work for the fllywheel.

lol, we need an 'over the head' smiley. we're talking about pulling a front axle and putting it in 4WD for front engine RWD. in a subaru.

yep, the toyota tcases for Auto trannies are chain driven (like mine). and the jeep np231 and 241 are too. and I'm sure there are others.

So, I went out to my car a few days ago, opened the door, got in, closed the door.....and they seat belt didn't move. slammed the door a couple times, no.... opened the passenger door, nothing..... didn't have time to mess with it anymore, so I muscled it back to it's normal position, and went to school. on the way, I noticed that my radio didn't work (display works, but no tuner or backlight, and my CB works, so the switched power source is fine, but the memory one isn't). I got out the trusty test light, and tested the fusible links. good, got power on both sides of all 4. checked the fuse box, nothing. WTF could this be?!?!?!?!

did you forget to put in the motor? seriously though, yes, some of the bigger ATVs are pigs by comparison to other ATVs. but you are going to be hard-pressed to find an ATV that weighs more than 1500. heck, in MN, anything over 900 is no longer considered an Class-1 ATV. (class 2 was just created, is only up to 1500, and so far, there are zero class 2 designated trails) and I have no concept how you might have gotten your brat down to those kinds of numbers I'm not saying it can't be or hasn't been done. I just want to make sure you know that even if you get the highest load rated tire, you'll be pushing it right to the limit.

yea, but I'm fairly certain you could slap an EA r160 case (welded, LSD, whatever) on that 4.444 ring gear, and then bolt on the stubs. otherwise, suberdave found some adapter pieces that allow WRX inner cups to mate to EA82 axles....I'm sure the same could be done with whatever diff you've got

you most certainly can. but I've already added it to the write-up. which, if I get my sorry butt in gear, I should be able to have up on our school's server by the beginning of next week.

best bang for the buck, and best way to save yourself some serious headaches, is to get your hands on a '90-'94 legacy (ej22e). having the whole donor car at your disposal will make things substantially easier. also, that way you can be sure the motor runs before swapping (it's nice to know you're starting with a functional combination). these can usually be had for a few hundred bucks, depending on your location. I see rusted out ones here for $500 or less all the time. perfect donor cars. the transmission makes no difference, as long as you plan to use your loyale trans. my donor car was a FWD auto.

Sweet82 has custom rims and ATV tires. and no body.....it's substantially lighter than a real soob. this has been discussed a number of times, bottom line being that you're putting something like 5 times more weight on them then most of them were designed for. whether that's a risk you're willing to take is up to you....

ok: and just for fun, with STi BBS's on it: meh, I like the Rota Torques better. even if you could cut 2" out of the air struts without destroying something. you'd still be 4-lug, and you'd still have the air struts..... I've got something else entirely planned for suspension on this beast (hence the STi decals.....)

with all the questions about how to wire the relays on an EJ swapped car, I thought I'd draw up a little diagram of how I have it wired. obviously, the arrow marked (to rest of Ej harness) will go throughout the harness and give power to anything that needs power (coil, all ECU plugs, injectors, igniter, etc.) the 2 leads on the ignition switch that just go to a "+" sign get power via the EA harness. and the wire to the starter relay should remain factory EA. now, for security, you could wire a rocker switch (that always gets power) instead of the ignition switch to power the ignition relay (what I've done). this allows 3 things. 1. the car cannot start without flipping the switch (hidden kill switch) 2. you still need the key to start it 3. you can leave the car running to warm up with the ignition off (all accessories off, headlights, etc. and steering column still locked). I will be adding this to my write-up.

oh yea...that's no big deal. most of it's attached to the trans itself. then just remove the solenoids from the drivers side strut tower, and plug the line. yeck, you could just take the stuff attached to the trans out, plug the line, and leave the solenoids.

I don't think so. there are dozens of wires going in there for other indicators and such for the EA chassis, and only 2? for the EJ (tach and temp). I'd rather splice 2 wires into a cluster that already fits, than a bunch of wires, for indicators that might not be there, for a cluster that doesn't fit. I mean sure, you wouldn't have to hook up some of those things, headlight and door indicators for example, but your gas gauge (who knows if the resistance is the same) etc. and I'm 99% certain that a '93 imp will still have a cable speedo.

I can attest to that. I got mine through AA last summer. AWESOME product, fit perfect. great work man

it says '81-'89 GL, so I would suspect they mean EA81. I couldn't find the same part for an EA82, but found this: http://performance.thepartsbin.com/basket.php?makeid=31&modelid=503&year=1992&partid=536&brandid=3705 scroll down past the tranny cooler ones, and there's a full oil cooler kit. none of our subarus have had factory ENGINE oil coolers. but all the autos have a seperate core in the radiator for the tranny fluid (heck...so does my toyota). you could probably get a radiator for an AT and just plumb into that.

The D/R's don't. 4WD is engaged with the same lever as the lo range. just like a truck/jeep. keep in mind you'll also need the linkage for the low range, and the trim and shifter boot is different too, so you may want to get those too (I ran without it in my lifted wagons, but that's only for those who like watching the road go by).