Numbchux

working on my buddies' EA81s....they definitely weren't that weak...maybe some rust has gotten to yours or something. even got a push from one of them, didn't bend at all then either...

Thornbirds are the most overrated tire ever. no better performance offroad than any other Mud-terrain tire out there. and much more expensive. For a dedicated M/T, you can't beat the TSLs if street manners are a consideration, BFG M/Ts, Kumho M/Ts, etc. if cost is a major factor....the Uniroyal Liberator A/Ts from Wal-Mart are about as cheap as they come.

nope, no switch on the memory wire. that needs unswitched power. if you want the switch, you use the same wire from the battery to the main relay. and manually activate the relay. if you have a wire JUST for the memory wire, I bet a 2a fuse would be plenty. the voltmeter doesn't have a sender or anything. it'll read the same no matter how you hook it up, as long as it has power. so you don't have to do any messing with this wire. as long as the EA harness has power. doesn't matter what wire you use for the fan switch. anything that uses switched power. there's one for the radio already in the console, the entire EJ harness is laced with wires with switched power, any one of them will do, or, you could go straight to the source at the ignition switch.

well, the memory wire needs unswitched 12v power. get it however you like. I would put a fuse in it, pretty much any amount. the ECU only uses a tiny trickle of power, but the fuse is nice to prevent shorts and fires... I have one wire that goes from the battery to the Main relay on the EJ harness, that powers the entire EJ harness. I just tapped into this wire before the relay and went to the memory wire. I've got a 20a (or maybe 25..but I don't think so) fuse in line with that wire, and I have not blown it. I was talking to tex about this last night, and if you've got one wire powering the entire EJ harness, you can splice a switch instead of your ignition switch to control your Main relay. this does 2 things, if you give it power all the time (I spliced it into my radio's memory wire), that means the main relay, and therefore the entire engine, can still get power with the key out of the ignition. That means you can let the car idle to warm up, but without the key, you've got no accessories (headlights, horn, heat, radio...anything), and no steering. and if you leave the starter wire hooked to the ignition switch, you need the key to start it. it also acts as a kill switch, so even if someone gets into your car with the key, they have to know about the switch for it to run... sorry...that's not directly related to your question...but it's an interesting idea. and I'd highly recommend wiring it that way! I'd leave the sender wires in the harness....in fact, you could probably use the stock temp sensor and wire for your gauge. but even anyway...it's 2 wires. and if, at some point down the road, you decided you want to use them....they're there. not sure what you're asking about the alternator, and I also have no recollection of wire colors. but basically, if you're running the engine straight from the battery, there's no need for the alternator to be wired directly into the EJ harness....it's just there to keep the battery charged. so splice the EJ plug into the EA harness....and you're set.

probably have to add more than an inch. the RX D/R linkage is longer than regular 5MT D/R.... sounds like a beast....now let's see some pictures

yep, that's the one. I remember having some problems with that if I pushed too hard (or maybe too little....). and it did take a long azz time.... a carbide cutting bit sound nice though! I wish I had seen one of those when I was doing this project...

agreed! When I get my exhaust made up, I'm shooting for DUAL 2"....

dremel. the $30 Craftsman one-speed wired rotary tool, and 2 grinding stone attachments and a couple hours. worked perfectly! and VERY smooth, no vibrations or anything.

this is true....as long as you don't get high-centered on the rocks very often.... I bent the bracket on my black wagons carrier bearing so much, that the bracket itself was actually rubbing on the shaft. the bearing doesn't like that much....and it was a FWD car, except MorganM just welded the bracket to the driveshaft tunnel.....so it'll need to be cut off to be replaced.

I mounted some brackets in my FWD EA82 very much like GDs there. except since I don't easily have access to a welder, I used a bolt with a fender washer on the interior side and a nylock nut on the bottom. it actually worked great! maybe I'll take a picture this weekend while I'm replacing a rear caliper

^^waterproof. I considered doing something similar. on the right side of that page, they've got links to some universal brackets. I don't see any that would be a direct bolt-in, but it would be a start. but whatever you do, chances are good that some fabrication will be required on the brackets.

yea, I've had a couple that were really tough. one required some serious pounding/heating. and another one that I ended up using an acetylene torch and an air chisel. they can be extremely tough. unfortunately,

I thought it looked familiar

that is true, but the sticky in this forum does specifically comment about posting pics of other rigs. whatever, the point is that I think every one of us here that now has a toyota, had a subaru before that, and wheeled the living crap out of it. I didn't quite as much as the HP guys, but we've got a little different type of wheeling up here....one that likes to devour subaru suspension systems. but, I must admit, with the huge (QMAN'S RETURN) comment in the title...I got all excited to see the brat back in action.....and now I see it's for sale. I guess it was just a matter of time. Zap. isn't that the Yota you bought to rob the bumpers and roll bar off of?

GLs did get a 2-speed transfer case and the tranny is an easy swap into a loyale.... I think a lifted subaru is one of the best cars you could own. while I had it, it was my only car...it only left me stranded a couple times, and rarely because of offroading carnage, but just from old age maintenance issues.

I daily drove a lifted subaru for almost exactly a year. I didn't stop because of driveability, but because I built my loyale which is just more fun to drive on the street....then replaced my lifted subaru with something a little more offroad capable. anyway, I was very happy with mine. my black wagon was a little scary on a bumpy freeway, it's amazing how much power steering helps keep things stable. with worn-out shocks, no sway bars, and the higher center of gravity... but, I still got pretty good mileage. on the local highways and county roads around my parents' house where most of the time is spent at ~60mph, 25mpg or higher was pretty common. it got pretty crappy mileage in town, since it had to work so hard to accelerate....more like 18mpg. and at 75+, 23-25 was possible, as long as you don't try to use 5th gear. it's not a race car, so you really can't drive it like it is one....but I thought it felt more stable and safe then your average SUV. and you just can't beat the looks

haha, nice!

3AT has D,2,1. I still have the dash in my loyale from when it was a 3AT. I see the list every day.

no tool needed other than the 3/16 inch punch to get the springpin out. once you've got that out, it should come off. but you might need to beat on the CV cup with a hammer. if that isn't enough. heat is your friend. Get yourself a MAPP torch and heat up the end of the cup. this should get the axle to expand and make it easier to slip off the stub. hope this helps!

wow, it's deja vu all over again! except mine was missing one of it's wheel covers on that side when I got it....and the wheels after the lift weren't quite so shiny.... nice!

the mounting holes aren't there. you have to drill and tap 4 in the back for the mustache bar, and fab something for the center carrier bearing. BUT. on EA82s, the gas tank is the same. EA81s need to swap the gas tank to make room for the rear diff.

hmmm...ok, didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!!

nope, quite a bit more. he EA82t would be lucky to see 118hp at the crank (although I don't remember what it's rated at). this just put down 218 AT THE WHEELS!!! that's probably at least 250 at the crank.

good to know. well, in a few months, I'll be in the market. I'll be in touch...maybe we can work something out :cool:

yep.....hmmmmmm. how common are those trannies over there? would it be terribly expensive to source the cases to begin with? I don't have any money right now....but this summer I'll be in the market.... oh crap. I was thinking we'd just need the right half of the case....but upon closer inspection of your pictures....found this: you're EJ D/R case: my EJ S/R case: looks like we'd definately need both halves of the case...