Numbchux

haha....different kind of V-drive Inboard skiboat with direct drive, but with the engine in the back so it can't plane correctly for wakeboarding. I've never heard about or seen a lada tcase, but I figured since esh is in Australia, maybe they have different availability.

they will clear in the rear, but will most likely rub on the front calipers.

I know WJM does it, and quite competitively IIRC I intend to get out and do it next summer. although I'll get screwed by the classes if I ever want to get very competitive because of the engine swap....

a body lift. that's what we're referring to. dropping the entire suspension and drivetrain.

bushbasher started out with a lada one. I'm pretty sure he had problems with it and then went to a Nissan one instead. 2 shifters for 2 transfer cases. the subaru tcase is part of the transmission, so you still have the high-low range for that, and then the added tcase aswell.

version 2.0! now in pdf format: Download EA2EJ.pdf it will include bookmarks to the major points, but I'm putting that off until it's really done.

yea, but if you're running EJ struts, lowering springs are easy to come by...

nope, it's already there. you just unplug from one line, and then plug it into another.

ER27 has the same front end setup (water pump, timing belts, cam sprockets, oil pump etc. etc.) as an EA82. also pistons, rods, and valves. ditto EG33 to an EJ22. here's a cool piece of trivia....did you know an EG33 is closed deck? AND has the same bore as an EJ22....so custom pistons would be easy.

yep, he said manually, so he didn't have to fix the severed wires. your way would work perfectly, but this way is VERY easy, and still solves the problem. Here's what I'm talking about, here's the system hooked up normally: and here it is with the switch (solenoids, whetever) bypassed. this happens to be unlocked for me, but I got the part from a junkyard and very easily could have them backwards... tell me that's harder than crawling under the car and to tie a knot to the lever, stringing it up into the cabin, and then doing it again to the other side. it's not a bad idea....it's just not the best

haha, wow. whatever it is, it's not a subaru. looks like it's got a seperate diff for each front wheel! wierd

if the car came push-button, all the vacuum lines will be right there at the switch. just have to plug them in as necessary. I do it, it works great. I'll try to get a pic of it this evening while I'm working on the brakes....

no terrible hurry. my budget is still probably too tight to pull it off...but if you make them available, I plan to pick one up before summer.

nice! then you'd definitely have room for 29s! if not bigger.

military, don't remember which service. he toasted the rear output on his tranny, and started working on it (I don't think he got it fixed), and then was called to duty.

yea, that's pretty simple, but tieing on the ropes, and routing them isn't. how hard is it to connect one vacuum line, do a tight u-turn and see if it binds, and then mark the 2 lines with tape.

nope, it was definately an ER27.... but huck put an SVX motor in an XT6: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59835

I haven't wired my diff lock switch up yet, so when I want to lock my center diff, I just pop the hood, and bypass the vacuum switch. connecting one of the 2 lines that goes to the diaphragm manually. one of them is lock, and the other is unlock. although it took a little trial and error before I figured out which was which. nothing to fabricate, actually much more simple than the ropes....

once again, I'm not sure. I don't know much about EA81 stuff...but it's worth it. I'd be more worried about putting an EA81 axle through an XT6 knuckle. if you're using xt6 front steering knuckles and calipers, you can use your ebrake cables.

yes, you'll probably need to match the intake manifold to the heads.... and IIRC the coolant lines for the turbo come out of the head...but don't quote me on that

5-lug's easy. same as a rear disc conversion. XT6 rotors and backing plates, EA82t or XT6 calipers. can't use legacy stuff, as they use struts and knuckles, so it's not even remotely similar to the trailing arm on the brat. the front's the hard part...the legacy tophats have 3 bolts, and the brat only has 2. you may be able to swap tophats, but you may also end up drilling holes, which you'd probably need to re-enforce, not to mention get exactly in the right place.

correct. just as GD said, all EA82, EJ and EG (EG33, SVX motor) had belts. the EZ30s have chains. that way they're only one inch longer than an EJ22E

I have the 200SX calipers, with 4-lug. I do NOT have working rear handbrake. the bracket does hit the trailing arm with 4-lug (although just barely, I did get an extra one from another car at the yard and could easily bend it to get it to work), so I'm waiting until I actually do the 5-lug conversion to do something with the cables, and re-install that bracket. you could put XT6 backing plates on there, but it would mean that only part of the pads would actually touch the rotors....yikes

actually...we used an ice fishing auger. it drills about a 4" wide hole....and then get out the tape measure. or, you could also use a chain saw

woa!! just noticed....you used 240SX calipers....I used 200SX calipers.... oops.....