Numbchux

probably have to add more than an inch. the RX D/R linkage is longer than regular 5MT D/R.... sounds like a beast....now let's see some pictures

yep, that's the one. I remember having some problems with that if I pushed too hard (or maybe too little....). and it did take a long azz time.... a carbide cutting bit sound nice though! I wish I had seen one of those when I was doing this project...

agreed! When I get my exhaust made up, I'm shooting for DUAL 2"....

dremel. the $30 Craftsman one-speed wired rotary tool, and 2 grinding stone attachments and a couple hours. worked perfectly! and VERY smooth, no vibrations or anything.

this is true....as long as you don't get high-centered on the rocks very often.... I bent the bracket on my black wagons carrier bearing so much, that the bracket itself was actually rubbing on the shaft. the bearing doesn't like that much....and it was a FWD car, except MorganM just welded the bracket to the driveshaft tunnel.....so it'll need to be cut off to be replaced.

I mounted some brackets in my FWD EA82 very much like GDs there. except since I don't easily have access to a welder, I used a bolt with a fender washer on the interior side and a nylock nut on the bottom. it actually worked great! maybe I'll take a picture this weekend while I'm replacing a rear caliper

^^waterproof. I considered doing something similar. on the right side of that page, they've got links to some universal brackets. I don't see any that would be a direct bolt-in, but it would be a start. but whatever you do, chances are good that some fabrication will be required on the brackets.

yea, I've had a couple that were really tough. one required some serious pounding/heating. and another one that I ended up using an acetylene torch and an air chisel. they can be extremely tough. unfortunately,

I thought it looked familiar

that is true, but the sticky in this forum does specifically comment about posting pics of other rigs. whatever, the point is that I think every one of us here that now has a toyota, had a subaru before that, and wheeled the living crap out of it. I didn't quite as much as the HP guys, but we've got a little different type of wheeling up here....one that likes to devour subaru suspension systems. but, I must admit, with the huge (QMAN'S RETURN) comment in the title...I got all excited to see the brat back in action.....and now I see it's for sale. I guess it was just a matter of time. Zap. isn't that the Yota you bought to rob the bumpers and roll bar off of?

GLs did get a 2-speed transfer case and the tranny is an easy swap into a loyale.... I think a lifted subaru is one of the best cars you could own. while I had it, it was my only car...it only left me stranded a couple times, and rarely because of offroading carnage, but just from old age maintenance issues.

I daily drove a lifted subaru for almost exactly a year. I didn't stop because of driveability, but because I built my loyale which is just more fun to drive on the street....then replaced my lifted subaru with something a little more offroad capable. anyway, I was very happy with mine. my black wagon was a little scary on a bumpy freeway, it's amazing how much power steering helps keep things stable. with worn-out shocks, no sway bars, and the higher center of gravity... but, I still got pretty good mileage. on the local highways and county roads around my parents' house where most of the time is spent at ~60mph, 25mpg or higher was pretty common. it got pretty crappy mileage in town, since it had to work so hard to accelerate....more like 18mpg. and at 75+, 23-25 was possible, as long as you don't try to use 5th gear. it's not a race car, so you really can't drive it like it is one....but I thought it felt more stable and safe then your average SUV. and you just can't beat the looks

haha, nice!

3AT has D,2,1. I still have the dash in my loyale from when it was a 3AT. I see the list every day.

no tool needed other than the 3/16 inch punch to get the springpin out. once you've got that out, it should come off. but you might need to beat on the CV cup with a hammer. if that isn't enough. heat is your friend. Get yourself a MAPP torch and heat up the end of the cup. this should get the axle to expand and make it easier to slip off the stub. hope this helps!

wow, it's deja vu all over again! except mine was missing one of it's wheel covers on that side when I got it....and the wheels after the lift weren't quite so shiny.... nice!

the mounting holes aren't there. you have to drill and tap 4 in the back for the mustache bar, and fab something for the center carrier bearing. BUT. on EA82s, the gas tank is the same. EA81s need to swap the gas tank to make room for the rear diff.

hmmm...ok, didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!!

nope, quite a bit more. he EA82t would be lucky to see 118hp at the crank (although I don't remember what it's rated at). this just put down 218 AT THE WHEELS!!! that's probably at least 250 at the crank.

good to know. well, in a few months, I'll be in the market. I'll be in touch...maybe we can work something out :cool:

yep.....hmmmmmm. how common are those trannies over there? would it be terribly expensive to source the cases to begin with? I don't have any money right now....but this summer I'll be in the market.... oh crap. I was thinking we'd just need the right half of the case....but upon closer inspection of your pictures....found this: you're EJ D/R case: my EJ S/R case: looks like we'd definately need both halves of the case...

not really. just have to get some turbo front axles. everything else is the same.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23639&highlight=Quattro+San the links in the first post don't work, but there's a new link later in the thread...

I was just thinking that....maybe even just the right side. judging from the pics you took, it looks like the left side of the case is the same. the biggest thing that would solve, is the clutch/flywheel issue. since D/R and an EJ motor is already do-able.... gearing, for a few models anyway: N/A EA82 D/R 5MT 1st: 3.545 2nd: 1.947 3rd: 1.366 4th: 0.972 5th: 0.780 Axle Ratio: 3.90 Lo Range reduction: 1.592 EA82 turbo FT4WD 5MT (RX or GL/-10) 1st: 3.545 2nd: 2.111 3rd: 1.448 4th: 1.088 5th: 0.871 Axle Ratio: 3.70 Lo Range reduction: 1.196 also, legacy gearing from my '92 FSM FWD 5MT 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.738 Axles: 3.70 AWD 5MT 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.783 Axles: 4.111 just found this list...it has some EA81 numbers too http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gear-ratios.htm and some EJ ratios: http://www.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=181343 I intend to use: EA82 N/A or AWD Legacy 1-4 (same ratios, I'm leaning towards the Legacy ones...assuming they're stronger) FWD Legacy 5th EA82 N/A lo range RX center diff and final drive (the guy who's giving me the RX trannies seems to think a Mazda 323 GTX viscous locking center coupler could be used....he's got one...so I plan on finding out...). This would give me: 1: 3.545 2: 1.947 3: 1.366 4: 0.972 5: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.70 Lo range: 1.592

well, as far as I've been able to tell. there's no advantage of using a forester 5th gear, to using an N/A legacy or EA82 5th. I'm looking for a legacy FWD 5th gear, which is a bit lower still than a legacy AWD one. I'm not sure if they're interchangeable....but I'm going to find out. someone suggested to me that FWD trannies use a small coupler to attach the output shaft to the pinion. and you could actually convert a FWD trans to an AWD trans by pulling that coupler off, and replacing it with a center diff, and the center diff case to go with it. if this is true, I would assume it would be a very safe bet that 5th gear would be swappable, and taller than the forester 5th. you should care about the PT4WD trannies....because you'll need most of their guts to make a sweet tranny out of your FT4WD one