Numbchux

not just claimed. I pulled a set of FWD impreza axles from one here at a junkyard for austin, and tested them on a number of trannies I had laying around. fit perfectly onto a non-turbo d/r tranny, did not fit on a FWD legacy tranny, or my RX tranny....

so I'm looking at a keyless entry/remote start system for my wagon. but I'm not sure what to look for in the keyless entry system. it seems like it would be pretty simple (my car already has power locks). you'd just need an actuator for the drivers door. but I'm not sure if there is anything like this. anyone have any ideas? seen a system that comes with an actuator, or has one available? or know where a good actuator could be acquired (maybe a stock subaru one....).

yep, cables. my clutch cable would do this last winter, until there was a little heat in the engine bay, the clutch would get stuck, and not engage sometimes, making it very hard to get to school if I was late... later that same winter, the cable broke. and I ended up doing a cable late one night in the snow because I needed the car the next day. replace the cables....

I just realized you have an impreza. that doesn't change much of anything with the clutch job. in fact, makes for a little better argument for pulling the trans, since the engine's a little more complicated to remove in an EJ car. but you're in the wrong section, imprezas would fall under the new gen. we were all thinking you had an EA81 or EA82 subaru...

I did mine on my lifted wagon by pulling the trans. I think in general, if you've got a lift, pull the trans. if you've got an engine hoist (but no lift), pull the motor. if you've got neither, get some ratchet straps, and a buddy, and drop the trans. if you do pull the trans. when you're putting it back in, disconnect the pitch stopper, and the lift up the front of the motor (a jack and a block of wood on the oil pan work well) to make re-installation a bit easier. I found that putting the trans in with 2 guys (me and my dad), and a couple ratchet straps was easier than when I dropped the motor into it a year later. I had a hell of a time getting things to line up when I was dropping in the motor, and then when it finally did go, I darn near lost a finger between the block and the trans bellhousing!

yea..they're uber ugly... I may just paint them solid black though...since I like their width and backspacing I took a couple pics of my crazy digital dash setup today, and finally got around to uploading them:

LSD + lifted EA82 + deep snow = :banana: lookin good man!

most anything of the same body style that has a turbo will (although it was only an option on the GL-10s and XTs...so some might not. but most will). and XT6s (heavier car, so they got a thicker bar). you'll need the trailing arms too, as they only have the necessary brackets if there was a sway bar. and no...you can't have my axle burtonsnowman....

I'm not concerned. I'll go way out of my way to keep the auto trans for my crawler. that was one of the reasons I wanted to ditch the subaru....I hated the 5-speed for offroad. and the turbos were not available with a MT.

hmm...I suppose. although an EA on oversized tires and with good working 4-wheel discs has more stopping power than virtually any other lifted rig out there. I've driving a few buddy's rigs....jeeps and such.....yikes!

yep, for offroad, that would be the preferred method...however for us street/track guys, the bigger brakes that come with the 5-lug conversion are of much importance

if you're not concerned about suspension articulation. upgrade to turbo rear trailing arms, and add a rear sway bar to it. the only large driveability difference I noticed, was the removal of the sway bar, the origional lift and tire installation didn't effect the handling all that much. I bet, even with a lift and slightly larger tires (just 26-27" tires would be perfect, don't need to do all that trimming for 29+), it would be pretty streetable, and very stable with a rear sway bar. Heck, you could even put in the beefy XT6 bars...and probably get better than stock handling! I just bought an '87 turbo 4runner, with stock suspension and 31s....and I can tell you my 4" lifted, swaybarless wagon handled better than this thing does! and 91loyale. he's looking at an SJR kit, which leaves the strut/radius/leading rod brackets tight up against the body. so that weak point isn't really an issue (the biggest reason I would get an SJR kit over anything else)

the EJ inner axle cups have 25 splines, where the rear diff (now being mounted in the front) only has 23. so you have to use either FWD impreza cups, or EA cups, in order for them to fit on the diff.

not taller, but similar....it certainly wouldn't be an upgrade and yes, the rear strut top is different than the front, but very similar. the older gen ones are COMPLETELY different....

Gotta fix the knock before I do much with it.... the turbos where only available in '87. they knew the regular 22RE 4-cyl was not powerful enough, but the V6 wasn't ready to be released until '88....so they turbo'd the old motor.

got here today!! an '87 SR5 turbo with an Automatic. VERY solid frame (hard to find here in the midwest), and a slight knock (probably a #4 rod bearing...). but only 24,000 miles on a brand new head and turbo. $1600. it'll be a bit of a project, but it's already got add-a-leafs, and front torsion bars cranked up, so I think some fender trimming, a 2-tone paint job, and some 33s should do nicely for next year. maybe a rear locker aswell.... then, SAS and 35s.

for future reference, don't floor it when going through water. it just splashes more water around, and causes the engine to suck more air (and potentially water). smooth, slow, and steady is the way to go. I'd bet on wet electrical connections. these motors are completely electronically controlled....if it gets a goofy signal from anything, it won't run quite right.

the #4 setting doesn't use a resistor. so if this one doesn't work, I would suspect the switch, or wiring, before the resistor pack. my #1 & 2 resistors are blown, so I only have 3 & 4.... but yes, the resistor pack is right next to the blower under/behind the glove box. yes, you'll probably have to contort your body half way under the dash to get at it...another reason to try the switch first. in fact, I'd pull the switch apart and make sure all the contacts are good and clean, and see where that lands you. maybe even get out a multimeter and make sure you're getting continuity through the right wires on all the settings.

so that's what that stupid blue thing is for. I had to relocate it in order to get my EJ22 ECU in there.....and now it falls down in front of the clutch pedal all the time....gotta get out the zip ties anyway, I wonder how hard it would be to retrofit the adjustable intermittent wipers onto a car that didn't have them.... tex. sorry for the little hijack... but every GL and loyale that I've seen has had intermittent wipers, only the DLs didn't (including the '85/'86 ones, the switch was just on the dash....like we've already covered). I can't imagine that an RX wouldn't come with them. you're probably going to have to get the whole assembly (turn signal and wiper stalks) from a GL. hopefully the plugs didn't have to be modified to put the DL one in there. and the sensor that allows the wiper arms to 'center' is in the motor itself. mine did what you describe after being parked for a couple years (worked fine before parking it). I figured I probalby would have to replace it anyway....so I took it apart, and cleaned some dust and dirt out of there, greased up the gears, and put it back together, and it worked. I couldn't describe how it came apart, or went together.....but I got lucky and it works perfectly now! *knock on wood*

neither of mine will (including the one still in the legacy). it'll start for a second, but won't stay running.

Oh, really?? adjustable intermitent wipers....that would be sooooo sweet. *digs out wiring diagrams...*

the strut tower pattern will be the same. not sure of the offset required to avoid camber problems (although there is some adjustment at the knuckle). but it looks like the strut tops are at an angle....

in my experience, the ECUs are not different. and the jumper is only required to get the starter relay to turn on, but if you're using the relay on the EA car, it won't matter. I have 3 OBD I EJ22 ECUs, one known from a 4EAT, one from a 5-speed, and the third I'm unsure as to the origin.....they're completely interchangeable, and do not throw any CEL codes. the donor car for my swap was an automatic. it made things a little more complicated to strip down, but not too badly (just find the 2 connectors that go to the tranny, and the 2 or 3 that go to the TCU, and cut off all the wires that go to them....it really helps narrow things down)

yes, you'll need the Mass Air Flow sensor....without it the motor will not run. for the power steering pump...remove it. and get a shorter alternater belt.

he's talking about a block between the top of the strut, and the strut tower on the car. just like the EA ones.