Numbchux

no the engine part of the wiring is pretty different. because the turbo block is MPFI.... BUT, you could take both engines out, swap the MPFI heads from the bad motor, to the good one, and drop it in without the turbo (use the exhaust, and intake plenum pieces that are on the SPFI car). only parts you'll need are a few gaskets. AND, the wiring will be completely plug and play with this method. just have to mix and match engine parts a bit. I promise, it'll be an easier job than messing with the wiring harnesses! having messed a bit with a couple different AT harnesses (neither AWD...), the last thing on this planet that I'd like to do is deal with that, and try to have it work! I'm having enough trouble just keeping the engine working on my swap, and it's got a 5-speed....

just get an Eaton M62 Supercharger from a mercedes. it's a proven setup. and, assuming the crank pullies are the same size as an EJ22, should produce 5-6psi of boost. and cost less than that thing (if you're patient, they can be had on ebay for less than $300.) AND, the eaton has an electronic clutch on the pully, so you can disengage it, and have the engine run just like stock! it's an interesting idea, but highly doubt it'll work like you'd hoped. I bet the drag on the crank to turn something that big will far outweigh the little bit of boost that the poor motor could handle.

This is what I would do. more power (specifically...torque!) than the SPFI motor, and no wiring hassle. and it'd be a perfect opportunity to put a few new gaskets in there, and new t-belts.

it looks to be electric?? Just go to sears and buy a leaf blower....

yes, but when they did the summer group buy this past summer, they said that they wouldn't be available after that....

bolt pattern can be modified. EJ clutch discs work with EA trannies. the challenge will be the pressure plate, and, as mentioned, the diameter. getting a pressure plate that cooperates with the throwout bearing, and getting the teeth on the outside edge to cooperate with the starter....

I did almost 70miles last fall, in my lifted wagon, behind an F150, in the dark. NOT fun. I would NEVER do it again. but, it did save me a fortune on the rescue cost (turned out to be a wet crank angle sensor.... ).

tcase stays up high with the engine and tranny. diffs get dropped down along with crossmembers and subframes. no CV axle problems. and normal driveshafts meant for a solid axle vehicle can handle the angles to compensate, and getting higher angle U-joints is pretty easy too. there's a little more torque and strain, sure. but as long as you're not dumping the clutch, and are easy on the happy pedal, there shouldn't be any problems.

these cars can tow alot more than they can stop. disks or no. don't even think about a highway, if you have to make an emergency stop at highway speeds, you'll be dead. also, how are you going to attach it? I have no idea how much a shadow weighs, and I realize with a dolly that tongue weight isn't really a factor, but that kind of pushing and pulling on the rear of the car might be alot. even if you have one of those tie-down mounted 'receiver' hitches. in fact, what is a shadow? the Honda motorcycle? if it's just a bike, even a larger one, you could do it. but if you need a tow dolly, probably not.

you say it's got OB struts...springs too?

I don't know, I've heard that it is (well, turbo vs. non-turbo, most GL-10s are turbo). but the one in my loyale would be the same as a regular GL, and it's working fine for my N/A EJ22. more fuel pressure might not be a bad idea for a turbo EJ motor, however...

:confused:

well, I can tell you this much. the threads on an EA82 shifter are the same dimensions as a '94 legacy.

IIRC, the springs will give you another inch or so. I'd heard that PK was working on a legacy lift. but I haven't heard anything about it. you might be able to contact AA (call them). they might have something. problem with body lifting a legacy, is you still can't put any bigger tires on it. the spring perches on the struts are the big limitation for tire size. you can fit tires that rub on the perches into the stock wheelwells with pretty minimal trimming. and I don't see the point in body lifting something, if you still can't put bigger tires on it (kinda reminds me of some of the fullsize pickups running around town on stock street tires, and 6" of gap between the rear bumper at tailgate) also, My dad has purchased an outback suspension setup. and it appears to be identical to the system on his '94. but we haven't installed it yet...

as Brucey mentioned, talller gears aren't necessarily the answer. but I thought I'd elaborate... lifted EA82 wagon, if I try to use 5th gear, I have to use so much more throttle, that the gas mileage goes down by almost 10 mpg! cruising at ~4k rpm in 4th gear is WAY more effecient. also, keep in mind that in order to change your final gear ratio, you have to change the rear diff AND the transmission (or have it regeared ) it's a bigger job than most cars

yea, I just meant that comparing what my buddy's doing on his EJ22 is not necessarily a great example. since the EJ22 is bullet-proof, and the 25 is....well....not. he's getting away with 7-9psi quite well. I wouldn't put the EJ25 through more than 5. the DOHC ones have a big problem with head gaskets (I wouldn't think of boosting one of those), and the SOHC ones are better, but the problem isn't gone.

holy old thread! when I first installed my AA lift (1" taller strut extensions than crossmember blocks), I also cranked the adjustable struts up another inch or so. and ate through 3 axles in a month. I lowered them again, and haven't had a problem since.

it's all here.

who's getting the entire back end? only need brake rotors, backing plates, and front control arms.

I have the video of that red brat on the dyno....hitting 495 awhp. the thing darn near takes off... but I beleive what you seek is this:

yes, but I don't have the time, space, money, or capability to get it here.....

yep, just about anything you can dream of is possible. Mechanically, everything will fit very easily. you'll want an engine crossmember from a turbo car, as it has a notch in it for the up-pipe. but a custom up-pipe can be made to go behind the crossmember and CV shaft. you'll need to completely replace the engine wiring. everything in between the engine and the ECU has to match. but, you could get an EJ22t ('90-'94 legacy turbo engine), harness, and ECU, or ditto from an STi, WRX, newer turbo legacy/baja, or Forester XT. you could just slap a factory WRX turbo (TD04), intercooler, and exhaust on your motor. the OBDII ECU can easily make up for the extra air. there's a local guy who's been running that into a stock EJ22 for almost a year now, with no problems, and when he scans the computer, it says the injectors are only running at 93%. HOWEVER, I would not recommend doing this to an EJ25 (what you have), even if it is SOHC (which yours probably is...). but in all reality, the best thing you can do for performance, is loose the slushbox. the drivetrail loss in an AWD auto tranny is amazing!! swap it for a 5-speed, and the power will be transferred to the road much more effeciently! the sky's pretty much the limit with these cars....Subarus = Legos!!

oh goodness no.....completely different mount. the EJ rotors slide over the lug studs on the hub. whereas on an EA car, the rotor bolts to the back of the hub. and on top of that, in the back, the EJ rotors have a little mini-drum in the center for the ebrake. unfortunately, the only brake upgrade option is 5-lug. then you could use EJ knuckles on the front, and THEN use WRX rotors and calipers. but still only XT6 rear rotors (bigger), and either stock calipers, or 200SX (same size caliper/piston, just has ebrake lever on it too). sorry...but you're options are pretty limited. but, the good news is, for 5-lug, you only need lower front control arms, rear rotors/hubs, and rear backing plates. everything else can either be regular EA82t, or EJ.

yep, you could do it that way. or if you swap the harness and ECU. it'll work, and should be almost completely plug and play. by harness, I do mean everything between ECU and engine, not just the small harness in the engine bay. you'll need to pull the drivers side fender. EDIT: WOA!!! I just notice, if those in fact, are yours. the green one pictured in the ad is a Touring wagon (raised roof), and VERY rare here in the US. If there's any chance of saving it, do it.

There are a couple of the best U-pull yards (U-Pull-R-Parts) down near my parent's house in the Twin Cities. but up here in Duluth, the only Junkyard is NOT a UPull yard. so I find myself doing these kinds of repairs far too often.