Numbchux

as already mentioned, it should be like that. you set the drivers side one straight up, then rotate the crank 360* (cam will only go 180*), and then set the passenger side one straight up. and if it's off, even by only one tooth, it'll barely run at all....

control arms are completely different than EJ stuff, which use lower A-arms. I just wasn't certain of the difference between XT6 and regular EA82, since they look identical...but now I know. and I'm fairly certain that EJ tie rod ends have different thread dimensions than an EA, whicn is why XT6 rod ends must be used.

yep, I'll definately be running braided SS lines. and yes, already running rear discs, and will use the larger XT6 ones.

nice, currently I'm running stock EA82 front calipers, and 200SX rears. maybe I'll just get 2-pot WRX fronts....that'd be a step up, and wouldn't mess with my balance too badly. I've got all the parts for the swap using '92 legacy front stuff from the same donor car as my engine. it'll be awhile before I can actually get the conversion in there, mostly since I can't bear to waste all these sets of good tires mounted on 13" wheels (specifically the snow tires ). But I want to start collecting the parts now, including having the rear rotors turned, and cryo'ed. and definately some nice pads

yep, with a couple zip ties.... but I'm working on a cone filter adapter, so the air box won't be there for long... Austin, I haven't been able to get ahold of Kris yet, so I don't have a good pinout....

yep, lots of good info in the write-up. the rear suspension (and therefore the way the brakes mount) is completely different. and the lower front suspension is completely different aswell, the EA car/XT6 uses control arm/leading rods, whereas the EJ cars use an A-arm.... I still can't figure out the difference between XT6 control arms and EA82 control arms....

In the US at least, it's not based on year, it's turbo vs. non-turbo (or part-time vs. full-time, but for the most part, those are pretty similar). turbo's having the 3.7, non-turbo's having the 3.9 but yes, double check before using anything

I doubt he is, judging from the fender gap and tire size. I've got stock-sized tires tucked almost an inch up into the fenders in the front, and the control arms still aren't flat. and, with the spring rates as tight as they are, the angles don't change much. so even if it is that low, it won't make that much difference.... anyway, looks awesome man, and I imagine it handles amazing. I drove an impreza this last weekend with an old Tein Flex system on it (needed revalving....), and it was amazing. ME WANT!!

just wondering how the brake balance is on those of you using EJ front brakes. anyone using upgraded front calipers? my buddy keeps telling me I should get 4-pot fronts, but but since I can't match it with the 2-pots in the rear, I'll probably end up with some nasty understeer under hard braking.... thoughts?

I just noticed you said it would have 2 outlets....which isn't the case, since it goes straight to the Throttle body, and unless you've got 2 of those, you'll only have one outlet. it'll have 2 INLETS, but so do the ones with only one turbo. remember, any lines on the intercooler won't be a vacuum line. it'll have boost, the vacuum lines will be before the turbo, the line from the BOV will go to the intake manifold, so when you let off the throttle, there'll be more pressure in the intercooler, and less in the manifold, and that opens the valve, and releases that pressure.

not much you can do. adjust your driving style, get slightly smaller tires, or go much taller and really custom for a divorced tcase.

I'm not sure what exactly you're referring to, but it sounds like the valve with the vacuum line you mentioned would be the blow-off valve (or BOV). it releases the boost pressure when you let off the throttle. as far as the other 3 are concerned, I have no idea....hehehe....sorry and I beleive you need to have a certain number of posts before you can attach things, and it could be 10 (which I see you now have), so maybe try it again...

oh....hehe, yea

When I first dropped this motor in my car, it ran like crap, kept missing, and the tach would jump around. I figured the Crank angle sensor was going out. When I finally got my hands on a new disty, and went to take the old one out, I found the 2 bolts were loose. apparently when I set the ign timing, I forgot to tighten them. Glad you got it fixed!!

I had a couple diagrams, but there's a ton of stuff that needs to be switched. I just left it, the gauges still work fine, and the indicators just don't light up....

similar amount of work. using the EA relays would require splicing in at least 3 wires (2 12v+ from main relay, one ground for fuel relay to ECU) into the harness, whereas using the EJ ones means just the one from fuel relay to pump, and the one from the IGN switch to the Main relay, since they're already getting power and ground through the EJ harness elsewhere. but do leave the EA starter relay. bringing the EJ starter relay is overkill.

chances are, that'll only utilize part of the intercooler. You'll need something like this: except I suspect your inlets are pointed in different directions. but that intercooler is a stock single turbo WRX one, the Y is also stock, but we had to modify it a bit to reach the turbo (this was going in an impreza....)

check the drivers side belt. cause that side drives the distributer. I've had EA82s run with a broken pass. side belt, but not the drivers

actually, I beleive you don't need anything from the box under the hood. the 2 relays you need are under the dash, near the steering column. I bet the box under the passenger seat is for power locks or something, I bet you won't need it.

3/16" punches can be had for a few bucks at any hardware store. a craftsman one is only like $6....I have 3! and yes, there are more than a few unresolved issues about the 'other' site....but t isn't anyone you'll find here.

yep, that pretty much describes it. you'll need 2 relays from the legacy. Main relay (6 wires) and fuel pump (4), the FI fuel pump only needs a power, and a ground. leave the relay in the harness, string a wire back to the pump for your power, and then ground the other wire. one of these days, I'm going to sit down and finish my write-up

and a little bracket to make room for the EDFC motor at the top. Dave, I want to know how you like them!

I realize, but it seems to me you could do the same thing. strip the legacy harness down to the bare minimum (trying to leave as much of the harness in tact, definately was a major problem in getting mine to run, when we actually put in the time to strip the harness down to nothing, it started right up), feed the wires through the fender, and into the engine bay, and put the ECU under the dash like the legacy or EA. the crank and cam angle sensor wires, as well as O2 and MAF (cluster that comes through the firewall on the legacy) would have to be a little creative, unless the impreza's have the same hole above the pedals that comes out next to the strut tower.... I'll see if my buddy Kris can get me that same pinout for the imp.

just not true, welded is best, but you certainly don't NEED to weld it. and welding the front would be just downright dumb! clutch-type LSDs are a big step up over open, not as good as welded for the hardcore wheeler, but for most people's use, an LSD is fine. helical's are useless offroad.

no rats nest necessary: that's post-EJ22 swap. it's all up under the dash like it should be. wasn't even that hard, just had to pull off the fender.