Numbchux

I'd highly recommend changing the tranny. because it really sucks having all that low end torque, and only FWD. you really can't use it, except when passing. if you do go EG33...get a legacy 4.111:1 AWD 5MT and rear diff. or any EA82 full-time 4WD trans. even an XT6 one (not sure on the fitment of that....though) about the XT6 motor....it has the normal EA82 crossmember, but it also has one more motor mount out in front of that. you'd have to get pretty creative in attaching that. a local guy put an ER27 in his lifted hatch, and cut out the front of the car, all the radiator supports. moved the radiator forward, then built a beefy front tube bumper that holds the front of the car together, aswell as the front of the engine. the EJ swap is really the best option. the 4-cyl fits incredibly well, and is very light. the MPFI and comp. controlled ignition, aswell as superior intake/head design allow for way more torque than you'd expect from just a .4L displacement increase. it's going to be the same swap electrically speaking as anything else you're talking about (simpler, in fact, since there are only 4 injectors etc.). the bellhousing is a snap. the cost difference between an EG33 and EJ22 will be far greater than the measly cost for an adapter plate. parts are much more available/affordable for the EJ22 than any other option. and it still has too much torque for just FWD (unless you drop a ton of money into tires...) oh yea, and an EG33 has the same bellhousing as an EJ22

wheelin with the doors off FTW!!!!!! looks sweet. I wanna see this half door creation you speak of

these, and the diagrams in the chiltons manual saved me in my EJ swap:

is yours lifted?

in the city. but in my experience, the freeway miles were only 2-3 mpg worse (well....at ~80mph anyway)

huh....ya learn something every day!

5 I have no idea what it is that you're talking about.....just maintenence things that should be done while the engine is out? actually...my 4-cyl EA82 PP is holding quite well.... I didn't have this problem....what year was your donor car? not completely incompatible (is that a word?), just different resistance. it still works, but if the needle makes it up to halfway, the motor's toast. I wanted to do this....but the MAF comes into the air box at different angles. adapting the MAF wouldn't be too hard, looked like just a matter of drilling new holes. maybe you're using an impreza intake plenum..... why did you use the little right angle bends on the heater hoses? I just used about a bit over a foot of straight hosing. worked awesome and what's that line you're holding? just A/C? your wagon is lifted....isn't it? I have a feeling that's why we've got a few discrepencies.

um.....I realize you probably don't care, but the turbo 4EAT FT4WD trannies had no center diff lock. in fact I was under the impression that any non-RX turbo EA82 had FT4WD without center lock. and yes, it is a true center diff. I've got an RX tranny in my loyale, and with no driveshaft in it, I unlocked the center diff, and let out the clutch for a moment. the car didn't move at all. just like it was in neutral.

the key is the use of the legacy center diff. we discussed this a couple years go, maybe it was beefaru we were talking about, but IIRC the problem was getting the newer pinion gear to mate up with the old diff/4WD assembly.

there isn't a notch on the bottom of the covers. it's lined up almost exactly with the seam between the cam case and the valve cover.

w00t! I found it actually....my girlfriend spotted it first :-p

looks awesome!! I have one question for you, however....how do you like the gearing? I know after driving my EJ22 --> RX tranny powered loyale for about a month, the gearing is incredibly short for the torque that the motor puts out. I doubt I'll ever use lo range. I can't imagine the same gear ratios with a lower final drive . unless, of course, I was using substantially larger tires.

:slobber: :slobber:

oh, most definately!! overkill is much better than underkill!

that's definately overkill on the welding there! works best to take a peice of something metal (bolt with the head cut off works well) and weld it into where the gears mesh. then spot weld the gears to each other, aswell as to the sides of the carrier in a few places. my uncle always says that back when he was doin all his wheelin, they would cover the sides of the carrier with tin foil, melt down some lead, and pour it in. on the bigger rigs, they'd break it all apart in a weekend, and have an open diff again for the trip home, but in his little 82 4-cyl yota, it never broke in like 4 years! but now that he's back in it...he's just gonna get air lockers for his land rover :-\

get a multimeter, and use it to look for A/C voltage between the 2 signal wires on the crank and cam angle sensors. each should generate a littlle voltage (not the same...btw, they spin at different speeds). check for this at both the plug on the engine, and on the same wires at the ECU. this was one of the problems with my EJ swap. the sheilded wire for my cam angle sensor was not letting all of the power through. IIRC we got about .5V at the plug on the engine, and barely .15V at the ECU. so it was sparking, but not at the right time. another thing to try, pull both the plug wires off the coil on one side, and crank it. the spark should arc to the intake manifold. it should have a relatively predictable pattern between the 2 (I don't remember if it's just back and forth, or if it sparks twice on each). That was our first clue, when we did mine, it would spark once on one, and then always on the other. When we strung some new wires (don't need to be sheilded....BTW) to this sensor, we got a regular spark pattern, and it would start with a little starting fluid in the throttle body (I still had to redo alot of things to get fuel...but that's a different story) also, to verify that you have fuel pressure all the way across the rails, pull the regulator off (back of the passenger side head), and put a bucket under the end of the rail. turn the ignition on (don't need to crank), you should have fuel come out of there for a second. but I'm guessing that while you were wiring the tach and temp wires, you bumped something that's causing it to not work now. probably crank or cam angle sensors.

have you tried starting it? I'd assemble it to the bare minimum to attempt starting, and see if it runs. if it's off, even just one tooth, it won't start, and if it does, it'll run like total crap. when I did my first timing belt job, I didn't remove the disty. I took the cap off to verify it, and had to adjust it for the ignition timing, but never had to take it off....

it's true 4WD, just like a truck, so when it's engaged, the front wheels have to spin the same speed as the rear ones. if you're driving in a straight line, that isn't a problem, but if you're turning, it is. if the surface you're driving on can't slip, your tranny has to. long story short, that binding feeling is VERY bad, and the entire reason why the car was designed with a 2WD setting.

WOW!! way cool! thanks!!!!!!!11!11!1

EJ22t is the engine code for the closed deck turbo block. I won't be using the turbo, just a blower. Twin charged systems are neat, but not for me....

keeping this somewhat realistic.... road car: 5-lug, with custom cryo treated and vented rotors tein flex suspension all poly bushings supercharged EJ22t (closed deck, but forced induction from a blower!!), stroked/bored to 2.35L, balanced to 8k rpms, wrx DOHC heads FMIC (yes, blowers can benefit from an IC too) 17" Rota D2s with very lo-pro R-compound tires custom wide-body kit RX ground effects custom underbody aero work, including a rear diffuser RX FT4WD tranny with lockable viscous center LSD and helical front LSD, and 1.5:1 lo range OR legacy 4.111 tranny with helical front LSD and viscous rear custom super lightweight flywheel wrx clutch disc I think that should do it (I plan on doing most of that anyway....eventually) wheeler: custom longarm suspension setup (retaining independant suspension, and allowing for suspension lift) custom telescoping axle shafts (so the shafts telescope, not the DOJs) stronger axle stubs 4:1 lo range 4.444 final drive air lockers front and rear NO divorced transfer case (all of the above in the stock transaxle) fully built high compression N/A EJ25 motor 2" receivers front and rear for removable winch 33" swampers (remember that suspension lift?) on-board air integrated front bumper/skidplate

this is a little late, but I just thought I'd correct a couple things here.... many people have turbo'd the SPFI EA82, with decent results. you can't push alot of boost through them, but you can push some. the high-comp block can take ~5psi of boost pretty well. the biggest problem with the SPFI is it's hard to get enough fuel in there to match the extra air. but a high-comp MPFI (one injector for each cylinder) engine runs pretty well with about 5psi max. and real quick spool also, for suspension. there are lots of options. even if you stay 4-lug. KYB GR2 struts are available as a bolt on for these cars, and the RX springs are pretty stiff, and will fit on there just fine. Also, many generic 'ebay' type adjustable coilovers will fit. I'm running 400/450 lb/in coilovers in my loyale right now. it needs the stiffer shocks REALLY bad, but the springs work. also, the XT6 sway bar bolts right into the front, and if you get the rear trailing arms from a GL turbo with sway bars, you can use the XT6 rear aswell. I've never heard of any poly bushings available. I see nothing wrong with the stock gauges. as long as the sendors work. besides, if the EA82 looses oil pressure, it'll tell you. the hydraulic lash adjusters will stop putting pressure on the rockers....and make a horrible ticking sound. you won't miss it unless you've got the radio really cranked. wheels. stock subaru 4-lug wheels were only 13s (well, theoretically 14s existed, but I only know of one set here in the US). and ANY 6x5.5" wheel will have the right size bolt pattern to be modified to work on a subaru. chevy, nissan, toyota, isuzu, etc. and yes, old 4-lug peugeots have the same lug pattern. and have 14 and 15" in both alloy and steel varieties. the alloy ones will need the peugeot (pug for short) lug nuts, or ball seats. only brakes upgrade for 4-lug is rear discs. 5-lug yeilds bigger rotors, but same calipers (unless you use legacy/impreza fronts.... = whole different can of worms). and once/if you start driving hard, the rear drums are not enough, discs make a world of difference!! sorry to go pick apart your post daeron. no offense intended. but I just wanted to make sure all the correct information was out there. personally. having driven a stock-EJ22 powered AWD legacy for a few months, and now a stock-EJ22 powered FT4WD loyale. I'd take the loyale any day of the week. it's noticably quicker! I think they're quite a bit lighter! if you're a decent mechanic, and know you're way around a wiring diagram, a sweet EJ22-powered AWD (yes, you can use the legacy true AWD tranny) loyale could be built for similar cost to buying a legacy/impreza with the same setup. and will be quicker, and FAR more unique! I would HIGHLY recommend it!!! but, if you're not up to huge extensive drivetrain swaps, and want something a little more performance oriented right out of the box. an AWD impreza would be the ticket!

I tried getting my '92 legacy radiator to fit in there, and had nothing but problems. and since I don't have easy access to a welder, I wasn't about to go cutting and pasting. it was so easy to just get the napa bushings to adapt the lines, and plug it in. and it's been more than enough cooling power, even for the daily hillclimb that is the city of duluth (been called little San Fran more than a few times). I also had to mount a fan on the front of the radiator too, definately no room for any stock EA82 or EJ22 fan on there, maybe a slim EA81 one...but I didn't have one to try. have any pics of how you modified the support to get it to fit? I'd love to add that!

I hear an XT pitch stopper and bracket will work. it bolts onto the EA tranny, not the engine. and has a shorter pitch stopper which should fit right in. I'm running without one right now, and the engine doesn't seem to be shifting too much (I pulled the shift boot off so I could see the tranny, and then did a few hard shifts...). but I do intend to get one very soon.

also, when using the momentum of the car to try to turn over the engine, 5th gear is lower. if you want to try pulling it and dumping the clutch again, put it in 5th hi...