Numbchux

yep, they're not much to look at, just a little peice of rubber hose clamped onto the bleeder. anyway, I didn't copy them to my computer. so I'll give morgan a call and see if he can email them to me. otherwise...I can just go take a new pic or 2 next weekend. I'll be seeing the buddy of mine that I sold that wagon to. and those speed bleeders are still hangin on!

add some marvel mystery oil with the new oil. and drive it for a few days. I bet it'll get better

I have a set of cheap adjustable coilovers for a GC8 impreza (95-01 i believe) on my Loyale. they're 450/400 lb/in springs on the front and rear respectively. with an XT6 front sway bar (still no sway bar mounts yet in the back), and stock shocks. it handles SOOO well, even with the cheap M+S tires I have on it now. it's pretty bumpy, but real tight. if you're staying 4-lug, the best shock you can get is pretty much the GR2. But if you go 5-lug, you can use impreza/legacy fronts, and get KYB AGX's (adjustable!!). Watch this thread for info on fitting 2000-current legacy GT rear stuff to your EA82. here's what it looks like now: and yes, very small world here with the older subarus, most of us know exactly what car you're talking about when you say you've got russ's old wagon EDIT: found a pic of those springs. they're R-1 Racing brand, though I haven't been able to find any others like them.... stock impreza on the left, R-1 racing coilovers, JDM WRX STi ver. V (or VI, I don't remember) on the right:

Morgan's not a subaru guy anymore. and I wouldn't be suprised if he is cleaning out the space on his server. I'll see if I have them copied, otherwise I'll call him and see if he still has them anywhere. Also, I just thought I'd add to this, for anyone who's thinking of doing the 200SX rear caliper conversion, the bleeders in those calipers are the same as the EA82 fronts.

I love how they don't match! are those the same tires/wheels you had on the ol' turbo brat? I know you had 30s on redrilled white-spoke chevy 6-lugs, and those look like they've been around awhile.... either way....they look awesome!

exactly correct. the autos have an electronically controlled hydraulic system that controls how much pressure is put on those clutch packs. can be modified to either release (FWD fuse under the hood), or lock (AndyJo did this with his Imp). anyway, Austin and I went up to the Iron Range ORV park near my house. it's THE place to go wheeling in MN. his imp did awesome. no sand or anything, so it's not quite the same, but we never noticed any slip between the front and rear. he got high-centered, with one front wheel off the ground, and the rears on the ground, and one of the back wheels dug a whole trying to move the car on it's own.... regardless, I'd take a part-time Dual range box any day.

Very true, and should be considered. but I've been running them with a stock EA82 radiator (not a very good one either....it's got more than a few bent fins), with just one electric fan and no problems. yet... *knock on wood*

well, if you think those foresters had open center diffs, then they're different than any AWD EJ tranny here in the states. as I know for a fact that they're ALL LSD center. yea, worn synchros are common. every MT subaru I've ever driven has 'em. (of course they all have pretty high mileage). consider yourself lucky yours doesn't. the bigger tires make it worse, I tried 2 different trannies in my lifted wagon that both shifted great on stock tires, but not on big ones. had to double clutch just to get it into first while moving. IIRC, since the 5-speed has an extra gear, all of them are a bit closer, and 1st is a bit lower. I'd have to double check before saying for sure.

too much sheer force on that lift block(s) will pull it out of the framerail. whether the bolt's loose or not. it helps to have the AA one peice design, but nonetheless. These cars aren't real tough, they'll do some amazing things, but only with careful driving, otherwise they will just fail, as you're finding out.

regardless of the tread pattern, 10" wide tire vs 8.5" wide, that's the difference between digging through to solid ground and stuck up in the muck. not to mention 26" tall vs 29"...there's an 1.5" of pure ground clearance. and then, the lugs are too far apart, with the weight of a car on them, they won't push enough material to maintain any momentum..... sounds like 3 times to me but then, that's mostly speculation.....I say go for it, and tell us for sure how it all works out.

well, I'm not sure how to replace just the glass. but I put a lawn mower handle through the back window of my old '85 GL Wagon. I got a whole new hatch from the local Junkyard off a Loyale. pretty easy swap. and it's way easier than making sure the gasket seals, and the defroster still works, etc. That's how I did it, worked great....Good Luck!!

so does that mean that any rear suspesion for an '05 LGT can be put in the rear of an EA82? I'll be needing some real suspension next summer....hopefully this will open a new door or 2.

Ah, I see.....well, in all honesty. you pretty much can't go too big if you're only doing a cat-back. I'm not running anything beyond the cats. I've the y-pipe, mid-pipe, and that's it. so I've got 2 'cats' (though they have 240k miles on them....there pretty much rotted out), and no muffler. gives it a nice bark, and it's still got gobs of lo-end torque. when I get a custom system made, I'm going to go with ~2.5" the whole way. I know a couple local guys who've done this, and it seems to give a nice sound (with a resonater and thrush glasspack), and lots of torque.

Sorry guys, I'm not going to make down there this year. I just don't have the time to be driving all the way down there 3 weeks into the school year. so...good luck....have fun.....and TAKE SOME PICS

I'm not sure about over there, but here in the US, EJ AWD trannies all have center LSDs. the 5-speeds have a viscous coupler, and the 4EAT have a series of clutch packs. it's the fronts that are only LSD in the STi. but you can get aftermarket ones (OBX makes a nice helical one for a reasonable price, not sure about over in AUS, though) that work just fine. and after driving my loyale for a few weeks with the RX tranny (1.2:1 lo range), it's just not enough. there's almost no difference at all. anyway, if I were you, I'd go with a mildly built EJ22 and an EA82 5-speed D/R tranny (that's what I plan on doing next summer )

haha, either that or the 'similar threads' links at the bottom of the page.

that's because it's 3 years old :-p

don't need to replace them. don't need to modify them at all, just use an adapter from 1 1/4" (radiator side) to 1 1/2" (engine). not sure what you mean with the exhaust question. IIRC, none of your stock EA81 exhaust will work. you'll have to use some of the EJ exhaust, and have the rest custom made anyway. LOTs of really good info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48848 and I'm trying to put together all the info onto one site, I've got alot of it already done, but not all of it: http://www.geocities.com/NumbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ

ANOTHER 3 year old thread?!

at 8-9 psi....yes at ~5 and somewhat conservative driving.....no

I don't know if I have a pic of it, but I've got mine out, so if I have time this weekend I can take one. anyway, Allied Armament here in the states basically took those three blocks, and put a peice of metal along the outside edges to connect them all, that way the forces are applied more efficiently to the unibody. Scott....I'd really like to know how you did it. have any pic of your modified radius rod??

a buddy of mine did this, with upgraded injectors, and piggyback ECU ('96 impreza L auto with PerfectPower 6 for management) and only 5psi of boost (EA82 wastegate on TD04) and had nothing but problems. he actually took it off about 6 months later for the sake of reliability. BUT, another local guy just did the same, except with stock injectors and ECU, and 3psi more boost, and it runs awesome! as long as it's an OBDII (which your car should be) it's smart enough to compensate for the extra air. and he said that when he ran the OBDII diagnostic tests, it said the injectors were only running at 93%, so there's some room for more boost!!! now, keep in mind, although it's running awesome now, he only did this because he just finished his EJ22T (closed deck) build up, and wants to kill the motor that's in it. he is not expecting it to last through the winter. long story short, I've got no definitive answer, just a couple personal situations to think about. if I were doing this (and I might....someday), I'd run less boost, and no management.

then you must have had the wrong nuts or something.... either way, you only need the pug nuts if you're using alloy wheels. as they need the big centering washer. not necessary for the steelies.

not sure what you mean....all the kits run the higher risk of having the bolts coming loose. but if you're referring to the leading rod mounts getting horsed up with the new 'one-piece' blocks, I don't think so. they're a HUGE improvement!

chef_tim found the longer studs IIRC. you don't need new studs, however. you just need the pug lug nuts. as they have large centering washers on them, or get the ball seats. find the post stickied in the wanted section, McBrat posted a link to the ball seats that allow you to use the subaru nuts with pug alloy wheels