Numbchux

ancient, huge CRT here.....definately green. but GD did say BRIGHT green....it looks more like a forest green.... nonetheless.... :headbang:

2 words......pitch stopper.....what are you guys doing for this. I didn't even think of it, but when I got everything dropped in there, I realized on EJ cars, it's attached to the tranny, and EA cars, it's attached to the engine. well, I'm using neither of these. can I get by without using one?

Yep, something to watch out for. our local junkyard lists the cars when they come in on their website. so I can watch, and get it all from the same car, without it getting manhandled first.

what do you mean? I like the fish tank pump!

bump since the un-sticky-ing.... and, I just finished editing the video from the weekend....a full 40-minutes worth. so I'm going to edit the stuff we took on May 20 together, and should be able to put out a full hour and 15 minute (or so...) DVD. coming to a mailbox near you (hopefully). I'm thinking I might do a limited run now, and then make them available for a donation for next years event. maybe with anything else we take this year.

but I want the air flowing through the hose INTO the distributer. if you just hook it up to your intake, when the disty is under water, it'll just suck it up. if it worked, the fumes from inside the cap would be pushed out the bottom of the distributer. yea, I remember the rubber glove trick, or the toyota distributer protector, but both seal it off completely. I was just thinking some force air flow would be much more effective...

5

this last weekend at the crawl 4 the cure (see the thread "Support a great cause!" for the aftermath there), I was playing in some pretty deep...pretty nasty mud/water. and got my distributer wet. well, I remembered seeing on a can of PB blaster that you could spray it in a disty to get a wet motor to start. so when my car started coughing from the water, I got my can of WD40 (didn't have any PB with me) and looked, and it said it would clean electrical contacts. so I went to pull the distributer cap to spray it in there, when I realized, there's a little vent on the top of the cap, with a rubber cap over it. I pulled the cap off, and the hole is just a bit bigger than the WD40 straw. so I sprayed some in there with the engine running, and it helped a ton!! sooo, I got to thinking, there are little vents at the base of the distributer too, if you sealed off the gasket between the cap and the base of the distributer, hooked a little vacuum hose to the vent on the top of the cap, and hooked it to a little pump of some sort in the cab, it would keep virtually all the water out, but the circulation would prevent condensation from becoming a problem aswell... what do y'all think? any ideas on what to use to force some air down that little hole?

Well, this can be unstickied now...thanks! also, if a mod would add "the aftermath" or something to the title, since the event happened already...that'd be great (origional post is too old, I can't edit it) anyway...we went, and had an awesome time. KickAsssFlash brought his YJ, I brought the Poopenvagen, and MorganM brought the Kia (unfortunately, he was having severe problems with the carb on his samurai, and didn't have legal tow points on the bumpers, so he ended up hitching rides throughout the park). one of the guys' wife sewed the letters MS Crawl 4 the Cure on his spare tire carrier on his YJ....WAY cool: KAF's YJ did really awesome, the stuff we took of it on the same trails as me just look boring, so here's a couple more extreme ones. this trail's called pucker point, I tried it...and spent so much time teetering on 2 wheels, that I ended up getting dragged through most of it: The Gorge Rock crawl, Morgan took the poopenvagon through the first part of this last year, but I didn't dare do it again this year, with all the rust that has formed on it since then: and then some playing in the water: all in all, we had a blast, taking the doors off was the best idea I've ever had!!! WOW, totally worth getting soaked with iron ore water, SOOO much easier to see when on the rocks. unfortunately, we had a smaller turnout this year....not sure why, hopefully it doesn't turn into a trend. but nonetheless, we'd raised just shy of $20k BEFORE the auction sunday night. so we'll probably be similar to last years 21. also, we got a ton of video, so hopefully there will be a DVD of KAF and I at the last 2 events up there. damage: mangled passenger side control arm/radius rod mangled driver side radius rod mount ripped 2 skidplate bolts out of the radiator support, and sheered off a 3rd before removing the fourth (bigger, custom plate, not the stock one.) knocked the cat-back off, once each day flat tire, turned out to just be crap in the valve, still holding bent center driveshaft carrier tweaked rear crossmember lift blocks

zap....wouldn't he want less backspacing, and more offset? to get the tires out away from the strut... also, I happen to remember that the latest tires on Austin's imp were the same as mine... 215/75r15, calculate to 27.7". He's using Forester 15" steelies, maybe the offset/backspacing is different than whatever you might be using.

blizzak revo's AMAZING!! I rode in a GC8 STi swap at our MNSubaru annual ice race event, and holy crap did they grip!! I have a set of Cooper Weather Master S/T2 snow tires, I think they're 155/80R13s. very impressive grip, fits nicely on the stock 13" wheel. I was catching up to a turbo RS in my lifted wagon at the ice race (until the engine seized :-\ ) you don't need to get non-DOT stuff to get real good snow tires!

sorry, my last post sounded kinda mean. I simply meant that most of the people who frequent this forum are about rock crawling or mud boggin...and probably won't know. http://www.nasioc.com it's just another forum, with way more members, and all newer gen (better chances of them having experience in this sort of thing) I can't help you specifically with a local rally group, but I do know that the minnesota one has a forum, also alot like this one. I do also know that most local rally guys run BFG Mud Terrains

I think gary's right also....I do know that it's a 14mm head. and only 1.5-2" long.

yea, that's essentially how a body lift does it, just much less effectively. and still doesn't solve the problem. the lower spring perch is just as close to the hub as before. not sure what you mean by extending the distance between chassis and suspension....sounds like a suspension lift. which is what king springs on outback struts does. but only to a point. and still doesn't solve the lower spring perch problem.

don't get me wrong here, it sounds like an awesome project, but not for the offroad forum....you'd probably get a much more effective answer on nasioc or your local rally club.

yes, but on an EJ car, it would be pointless, because the spring perch doesn't get any further away from the hub, which on an EJ car, is the biggest limitation on tire size.

I have some disty's too if you'd like (I'm looking to get rid of some parts)

OK, little bump, and some new info after some testing today, we know I have fuel. I have power to the yellow wire to the coil pack, but nothing else. (ther other 2 are supposed to be momentary ground....right?). we traced those back to the igniter, which has a big black wire that goes to a ground. this is not grounded. but we can't find, anywhere, where this big grounding block is. on this diagram: http://www.subarutex.com/92%20Legacy%20Engine%20Wiring.pdf it's one of the 2 grounds in the upper right corner of page 3. I'm going to tap a known good ground into that wire under the dash (I found where it comes out of the ECU...), and see if that helps me.

I have a video capture card, and lots of editing software. I was thinking of putting your subaru vids that I have on DVD so I can watch them at my house, and not just at my parents'

ok, I finally had time to check this out. it's identical to the one I have in my chilton's manual. What exactly does that diode do? I have power to all the yellow wire on the coil, which also powers the diode, but nothing on the green wire on the other side of it. I should have ground to the black wire, but didn't. I have power to both the yellow wires on the ignition relay. and now that I look at the diagram for the fuel pump relay, it makes no sense again.....so, I'll have to look at that all again.

want some help loading everything up?

I have the version with ken eric and rob in it. and I'm pretty sure I've seen that one.....makes me want to go there.

I've got a bunch, and in a couple weeks, I won't have any more EA-powered soobs if you want 'em, they're yours

yes, it's been done, quite frequently. gas tanks are different on EA81s. you'll also need to drill and tap mounts for your rear diff hanger but, other than that, it's direct bolt-up.

here's the FAQ he was talking about. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24980 and the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 look through those, and you'll get all sorts of info!