Numbchux

even I would probably be in for an RX body kit, depending, of course, on pricing and timing....

Numbchux (at) Gmail.com and I'll save that one from you tex, thanks guys! I'll have a look at it this afternoon, and maybe I'll understand it better.....

yep, BYB=Ozified=PK Davis....

I'm fairly certain the crank and cam sensors isn't the problem, I was pretty careful to not mess with the sheilded part. I did remove the three plugs from the bellhousing, and they were still 8 or 10" to short. I was looking at the motor in crappy light one night after removing the wiring from the donor car, and thought the 2 plugs were the same, so I panicked, then realized that they're different colors, so I was extra careful to keep them seperate. my understanding of the main relay, is the solid yellow wires have power all the time, the black is always grounded, and the ecu sends power through the green one, which activates the relay, allowing power through to the 2 yellow wires with a red stripe. the solid yellow ones have power all the time IIRC. anyway, regardless, I've whatever is supposed to be sending power to that relay...isn't....so I beleive that's my problem. and yes, corky, I knew from the beginning the wiring would be the hard part, but I figured I could get basic function (i.e. the $#$%$%ing motor to run) easier, and that my only real problem was getting the little accessories to work...

I have 30s on a car with 3" of lift. a buddy of mine has 29s on an unlifted hatch, simply adjusted the suspension up all the way and cut the crap out of the fenders. they're all body lifts, and they're all virtually identical (for EA81s anyway), buy what's the cheapest and fastest. SJR requires new/longer rear shocks, but that allows more travel, also doesn't come with the lengthened steering shaft, or pitch stopper, both will be necessary. I don't think BYB has the pitch stopper either...but they have a block for the front of the skidplate so you can still use it. but it's been proven insufficient if you're really wheeling hard. anything above 30s or so will be very hard to fit because of the firewall. but anything up to that will be quite easy with any amount of lift, especially if you're willing to trim the corners off the fenders. yes, do the rear disc conversion. it's a HUGE improvement, if you're serious at all about wheeling it, you'll love the extra power and control with 4-wheel disc brakes. have you read the Frequently Asked Questions page? lots of good info there

sounds good. I still have to take the x-member stuff off, but I'll be doing it within the next week. I'll shoot you a pm when I've got everything together.

you can have what comes off easily. I forget if they're 2" or 3. remember, I have both lifts, and I'm converting the other way I may have an extra set of 3" upper shock drop plates like the ones BYB uses, you could use those instead, that way you could keep your accord springs, but ease your axles a bit. and use bigger tires to get the rest of your car up off the ground

yep, I got this much figured out....I think the fuel pump relay already has a ground, it needs power to the green wire doesn't it?? I got it to click by wiring it this way...

who says you need more lift to get bigger tires? my black wagon has a 3" BYB lift with stock springs and non-adjustables with 29s. I say remove the accord springs, and do some fender trimming, then run big enough tires to get the ride height you want. otherwise, I'm thinking of removing those same blocks from said black wagon for the crawl 4 the cure next weekend. if I do, you can have them and the bolts for shipping (assuming they're not totally trashed....which they might be)

ugh....I'm getting very tired of this, I'll probably cough up the cash to have Shawn make me a harness when I do this swap in my lifted wagon.... mechanically, the swap is virtually done. engine's in, linkage is done, rear end is in, still waiting on rear brakes and front axles from tcat. haven't done the radiator yet, but I figure it won't need one until it runs anyway, in the meantime, it just leaves me more space to work. I'm not a total electrical idiot, but some of this stuff just leaves me stumped. anyway, I'm not getting spark. I've read Tex's thread about the same problem, but I think it's different. I'm not getting any spark, ever. neither of the ignition or fuel relays are getting power through the harness, and the ignition one isn't getting a ground. I ran a few wires just to get them to come on, and it still doens't work. so I have a feeling it's a deeper issue. This motor worked perfectly in the donor car, and was not dissasembled in any way. the entire engine harness etc. was left on the engine, and unplugged from the body during the swap. the only underhood wiring I've touched to the engine is the crank/cam angle, and knock sensor wires, to lengthen them. but I'm quite certain they all have good connections. everything on the harness seems to be grounded sufficiently, I tapped into the ground wire just to test it, and have been using it to test other circuits all day, with no problems, so I doubt that's the problem. what else could it be? I don't have easy access to a FSM, I've just been going off the chiltons/haynes diagrams, and some that my buddy printed off of the system at the garage that he works at. but I still can't figure it out... also, those that did it, how did you do the oil pressure gauge? the EJ motor just has the idiot light, but I'd kinda like the gauge to work, will an aftermarket sender fit under the alt? or should I just wire a little light to it, and if the light comes on....get worried.... there's probably more I'm forgetting, but that should do for now.

FWD imprezas don't have rear axles hatch monster's got it all right for the spline counts you can use your A/C compressor for on board air, for refilling your tires after airing them down, for air tools, etc. but nobody makes an air locker for a subaru.

archemitis has one on his hatch. pretty sure it was a generic, plastic or fiberglass one out of a catalog, but he did cut the hood out from underneath it. and he had origionally thought about doing sort of a shaker idea with the H6 emblem on the intake manifold of the ER27 sticking up out of the hood

Sweet! thanks!!

that would be cool.....but I still say hi comp EJ25

the High Clearance AA lift is fine on axles, as long as you don't try to get any more lift out of them. I had a few troubles when I had my struts adjusted up ~1"

^Buddy of mine.... he just wanted me to make sure you guys know he's out of town for the week, but is still 100% in on the group buy.

I hear the GCK EA81 axles are BEEFY, but I have EA82's so in my experience, by the time you spend enough money, to have enough extra lifetime warranty reman'd crap axles, you might as well have had some custom ones made! I wouldn't feel comfortable wheeling on reman'd axles unless I had at least 4 spares just to make sure I could limp it home. I've had horrible luck with remanufactured axles (had one last me about 18 hours once...), and great luck with junkyard axles, for a fraction of the price.

yep, we had a donor car sitting in the driveway...but we still did it all at once. you need to tear the dash down to the firewall, which means disconnecting the Lines to the heater core, and A/C lines. and both front fenders. The fuse box under the hood will need to be dissasembled, including removing all the relays (It's a tight fit through the hole in the inner fender), but save 'em. The fuse box under the dash won't fit out the hole, so the entire under-hood harness will need to be threaded into the interior. when we did it, we left only unplugged what we had to, left all relays on the harness (eve headlights ones, etc.). just to make things a bit easier. and it seems to have helped at this stage

front axles are easy, FWD impreza's use a 23-spline inner DOJ cup, just like EA82 N/As. and the axles are the same as the legacy ones (or at least Gen 1 legacies....I can't say about later ones). the trick is driveshaft, as the EJ one won't go into the back of the tranny...and the EA one uses a different center carrier bracket. a custom shaft will probably need to be used. and then there's the crossmember....and linkage. I haven't looked at that yet....

AHA, I think you're right! that would explain the misunderstanding! thank you

ok, thanks. that's what I was thinking, but my dad kept saying that we're going to need to pulll the dash as we were pulling the wiring out of the legacy donor car....

just the motor, it'll be mated to an RX tranny.....but I don't know how it would make a difference

you guys that did it....did you pull the dash out of the EA car during the install? or can it be done reasonably just from the driver side with the gauges and stuff removed...

don't think there's going to be a DVD this year, but I'll plan on it for next, just not enough footage or time this year (mostly because the only good footage I have, is Austins, and I don't actually have it....). BUT, I just hit the $400 mark today, anyone here want to contribute?! if I win anything in the raffle, I'll offer it up to you people first (but it'll probably be for jeeps...)

yes, the center diff can be welded. there's a local guy running hi L wagon with RWD right now. yes, it would bind horribly on the street....don't do it yes, FWD impreza axles fit right onto EA part-time 4WD Dual Range trannies and into your hubs (correct me if I"m wrong here, is there a difference between legacy and imp hubs?, otherwise you could probably swap the 23-spline inner cups onto your legacy axles)