Numbchux

Well, the difference is between EJ and EA series cars. the EAs (anything before '90, and loyales and XTs) could come with part-time, true 4WD. any EJ series (legacies, imprezas, foresters, and their assorted trim packages...) where all single range, full-time AWD (here in the US anyway). a Dual-Range 4WD tranny could be swapped into an EJ series car, but would require an adapter plate (to mate engine to tranny), FWD impreza axles (correct inner spline count for the older tranny stubs), and a custom driveshaft. and probably some custom linkage work, but it has been done, and could be done again.

specifically with 200SX calipers on a 4-lug car I got my 200SX calipers a few months ago, but just got the chance to put them in now....and the bracket that holds the actual cable hits the trailing arm. Luckily I wasn't actually replacing the handle/cables just yet, so I just pulled off that bracket, but if I want to do it, I'll have to figure something out. it's close, so I suspect that with the bigger rotor/backing plate from the XT6, a 5-lug setup would keep it far enough away. too bad I didn't think to check it...since I've got XT6 backing plates in a box here anyway :-\ so, I don't remember who exactly has done the swap....was it on a 4-lug car? did you have this problem? I took a ton of pictures....and will be posting a full write-up later tonight

for the roof rack, you can use any Thule, Yakima or similar gutter-mount setup for the crossbars, and then that safari rack would work. otherwise TWE fabrications does a great job (his member name here is Soobme, and has made a post or 2 in the vender forum...check it out)

yea...funny.... I've done my stupid #$%^ in my life, but I'll say this anyway...you're lucky it was just a trash can and yes, I'm with GD on this one. probably ball joint.

yep, sounds like telltale loose axle nut sounds. even if it was good and tight when you first put it on. it'll 'settle' some after driving it, so it'll need to be retorqued. check both of them too. if the sound continues at all, pull the hub off and make sure that running with the axle nut didn't damage the splines on either the hub or axle.

haha, morgan did that with one of his. I thought about doing it, but by the time I noticed it, it had sprayed grease all over the place, and I doubt the duct tape would have stuck at all.

what?! I'm sorry, I know you're not an idiot, but you're obviously talking about something COMPLETELY different!! if you don't have articulation/travel, you don't have all 4 tires on the ground.... but yes, to reiterate/rephrase what's been already said. replacing just the springs is a suspension lift, just like it would be on a pickup or jeep. problem is, with an independant suspension setup, a straight-up suspension lift complicates things. ESPECIALLY on old subarus that weren't designed with trail-riding in mind. 2 things: 1) because in order to get the car to ride higher, you would need stiffer springs, and the car would be running closer to the struts' full extension all the time, you lose suspension travel (to get technical, an independant suspenion design cannot have articulation, hence the name independant suspension, NOT dependant....it's just travel, but just a technicality, and good to know), and in a car where true lockers are not available, and the drivetrain isn't really strong enough to handle it anyway (specifically diff stubs), this is crucial. and 2) the geometry of the suspension and drivetrain gets all thrown out of whack. specifically the CV axles, and alignment. also the tie-rods end up running at an angle, which screws up their functionality too. those adjustable coilover spring sets (ignoring for a second that they're not available for our subarus), are SUBSTANTIALLY stiffer than the factory springs. I have a set much like those on my loyale right now (NOT an offroader) and they could only lift the car by about an inch or so, but won't allow the car to compress more than an inch or so downward either. long story short. if you want the cheapest, looks-only lift, the best option is just like in the pickup/jeep world....body lift. and a body lift only makes room for bigger tires, which cost money, and will rob your gas mileage, and put more strain on things. if you can barely afford your stock EA82 subaru. DO NOT lift it! was that helpful?

I know austin! you can actually see the blue!! anyway, I found a blue that matches MUUCH better, and put that over the spots where I touched up the top half (I may still do the whole top in WRB....but that's a project for another day) and yes, brian, the bumpers need paint BAAD, but I couldn't get the old rust/mud crap off, and then it rained the only day I had access to a sandblaster...so that project will have to wait. the wheels will get a new paintjob too. not sure if I should match the 'dark bronze' of the 2-tone, go black again, or do something completely different.... anyway, I took it out wheeling this weekend for the first time in 6+ months!!! found out that the 3 torn CV boots didn't like sitting outside for so long, then driven 4 hours at 70+mph, then wheeled all day ........ they made some pretty nasty clicking noises....but as soon as I noticed the sound, I pulled over and stuffed a crapload of grease in there, and stayed out of the mud while wheeling, so I think if I pull them apart, and put a new boot and fresh grease on them, they should still be good (knock on wood....) pics to come....hopefully tomorrow, depending how the progress with the loyale goes...

it's 4" AA lifted, those are 28" tires. I've tried it before too, and didn't make it...then I got a rear LSD I'm heading up north this weekend to do some wheeling, hopefully I can get some good pics then!

so, I'm pretty much done resurrecting the Chuxwagon 2....except the #@$%$% distributer went out on it today. stupid distributers, I want an EJ swap anyway, finished the 2-tone paint to fix up the rust spots, and cut the fenders so they're not buckled from clearancing with the hammer. and put the tube bumpers from Morgan's old wagon on it. anyway, I posed it up on a couple car ramps in the driveway, and took a few pics....and here they are:

byb?

exactly! well put

a little rubing is more than ok. if you've got more than a little, get out a hammer

ah....fair enough

yes, we do mean driveshaft. first off, what lift are you running? but yes, there's a little more angle on the driveshaft joints than there are stock. nothing a good ujoint can't handle, but if the joints on the way out. this'll kill it.

I guess it depends on the car, but on both of my EA82s, when we ripped the A/C out. we just used the same bracket and belt. there's plenty of support from the bracket where it's bolted to the intake manifold. and the alt belt is only an inch or so longer to compensate for the compressor (the A/C belt and tensioner can be removed aswell), there's plenty of travel in the alt to tighten things up.

yep, just like in a jeep or yota....

why are you swapping to an EJ 5-speed? that would just make wheeling harder. the only reason IMHO, to go to a subaru 5-speed, is for the EA series Lo Range. but if you've got an EJ series car, it seems to me that an Auto would be muuuch better.

the vibration could easily be your u-joints. I had this problem, no noticable vibration pre-lift. lots of vibration after the lift. when I had the tranny out to do a clutch a few months later, I noticed that the ujoints were pretty much seized....replaced the driveline (thank goodness for parts cars!!), and it went away.

I, for one, like having my LSD. you don't run nearly as high a risk of breaking stuff (like diff stubs) as you do with a welded. and it still gets you an extra push. and, if you're making quick wheeling stops, or do alot of driving in the snow, you still have shift on the fly 4WD....

I'm pretty sure the electric fan is also wired to a thermo switch on the radiator. if the coolant in the rad gets to a certain temp, the fan will come on. but maybe I'm wrong, and hopefully someone will correct me anyway, yes, you can just rip anything A/C related out. the condensor (or is it expandor...the one by the radiator...never heard it called a coil before) can go. all lines can go. there's a canister on the passenger side IIRC that's in the lines that can go. I think there's some wires that go to it, they can go. if you want to use the compressor as an air pump. save the lines that attach to the pump. those flanges would be difficult to duplicate if you had to..... none of my cars have A/C anymore

in my young, aggressive, and lazy year(s)....I found that a loyale will slide before rolling. I could get it to drift on dry pavement (it was FWD too...) I also found out what it's like to roll a tire off the bead. I didn't roll then either. just screwed up the tire, the pavement, and the balancing weight that was on the wheel. 4WD causes way more drag than you'll gain, even in a straight line...turning? forget about it. I never drove it on the track, but I did find out that as long as you're careful with the weight transfer, the understeer can be avoided...if you can find a secluded and NOT blind corner somewhere, give it a try. it's pretty easy to get the weight to shift, and get darn good traction around a corner. even on crappy tires. if it were me, I'd pull the rear axles too. then you won't have the rear end spinning, a little less rotating mass, little better accel.

I used a comalong. left the tranny attached to the car, lifted the engine up with the hoist, then pulled the engine forward with the comealong....worked great.

yep, tim had the pros do it. and still has had lots of problems with it. he's a member here, and although he doesn't post much, he lurks, and would get a pm if you sent him one. his screenname is Chef_Tim

I'm not sure if this is the right place. but I don't have anything for sale (yet), and it's specific to lifted soobs, so it seems like this might be it... anyway, how much have you guys gotten? a local friend of mine has an '87 4runner for sale that's in real good condition. he's offerred it to me for $1700....and is askind 2k to the public. can I get this much for my wagon? it's got a fresh motor (but still EA82), no rust, little body damage, lots of spare parts, rear LSD, lower mileage tranny, tube bumper, stainless steel skidplate, etc. most of you guys have seen it, and it's been featured in Subiesport.... anyway, I'm pretty bad at knowing the value of things unless I can research it first, and lifted soobs FS are pretty rare. so if I'm completely off my rocker, tell me, and I'll rest easy. but if I can get this much for it, I have to decide if I'm ready to part with my baby... sorry for the longwinded post :-\