Numbchux

that's a whole different sport. the one I participate in involves alot less happy pedal I rarely get the fenders dirty. sure, I twist and break control arms, rip my skidplate mounts out, and bend bumpers....but no dirt :-\

shocks are the same. and as far as I've been able to tell, front axles were the same. in fact, I've heard that the FWD shafts were the heavier duty ones....or had better quality control, or something. anyway, the rear diff hanger/mustache bar is quite easy to mount. just drill, and tap. there are even little dimples on the framerail were they need to go. just look on the donor car where they need to go, and then look on yours, you'll see it right away.h the center carrier is the hard part. there are little plates welded to the driveshaft tunnel on 4WD car that the center carrier bolts to, these plates are just not there on a FWD car. there's nothing to drill and tap into at all. currently, I've got the front half of the driveshaft hanging from the linkage to hold the fluid in, and am driving with the center diff locked (RX tranny) until I can afford a custom driveshaft. another option is to just weld the center bearing bracket directly to the driveshaft tunnel, but if you do that, you can't drop the tranny without pulling the engine. or, make you're own bracket to bolt it to. QMan's exactly right about the rear subframe. it all comes out as one peice, just disconnect the brake lines, and a couple clamps on the fuel lines (don't need to actually disconnect the lines, but they're clamped to the subframe in a couple places, don't do what I did and have the whole thing hanging by the lines before I realized what was happening!) anyway, you need the tranny, linkage, and this (except yours should have brakes on it): oh, and it's 14 bolts.....hehe

same as you're regular 9004 bulb. slightly lower wattage than you'd expect. they're not HIDs, they're tinted halogen bulbs. nothing too fancy. but they're just bulbs, there's no wiring/cutting/fabricating involved.

not sure what kind of trail riding you're talking about. but I've never wished I'd had more tread (liberator A/Ts or GoodYear M+Ss) while on the trail. even out in the greasier parts of the park, I've still had more than enough traction. one of my favorite trails:

I would HIGHLY recommend taking the doors off!! I did it with the front doors on my wagon for the Crawl 4 the Cure earlier this summer. and you really notice the weight difference, and you can see SOOO much better. you know exactly what terrain you're going over. on the structure of the car, you can have it teetering on 2 wheels, with as much twisting force on the unibody as possible, and still open and close the doors just fine. can't do that in a cherokee.... tell me this doesn't look fun unless you're doing some serious mud boggin (which...maybe you are....since you're getting ATV tires), it's pretty hard to get mud in the cab.

see, I always thought it would be the newer, FWD econobox 200SX. but my dad was going to the junkyard, and I failed to specify....I just said 200SX rear calipers. there was an '87, RWD, and I'm fairly sure it was a 4-cyl. he nabbed the rear calipers, and they worked great! maybe they're the same.... let me know if you find something out, and I'll add it to the write-up

even if you weren't going to put in a tcase....once you get above 4-6" you really need to build a frame under the car to give it the strength it needs. otherwise you'll mangle the unibody (it's easy to do with just a 4" kit, trust me )

on an EA82, you can remove the rear half. since there's a center bearing/bracket. it isn't any use, since it does exactly the same thing as putting the tranny in FWD....but you can remove it....

maybe the RX gears are shorter, but even with my very stock NA EJ22, I have no desire, whatsoever for lower gears (keep in mind, this is not an offroader). in fact, I think the gears are too short, even in Hi. I was hoping for gearing like this in lo range, and then switch it to hi for the street. now that I'm actually driving it, I doubt I'll ever really use lo range.

there's a guy here in MN who put HID's from a BMW into his GC8. took quite a bit of custom fabricating, but it worked. sooo....anything is possible. but it's hardly going to be plug and play. you can, however, get sylvania silverstar bulbs. they use a bluish tint on the bulbs, and look like HIDs, and actually make it way easier to see. I have a set on every car I have (and my girlfriends). they sell them at many auto parts stores, and even Target. for only about $30 for a pair.

4-lug suspension/brakes are completely different than any EJ stuff (i.e. 2.5 RS or STi). if you convert to 5-lug, you get bigger rears, but no room for upgrade beyond that, you'll still have the same calipers. but, if you use legacy/impreza front suspension/knuckles etc. in the 5-lug, the options for the front are endless

I've never heard of them. gotta get a bigger rim, use peugeot 4-lugs, convert to 6-lug, or drill out 6-lug wheels. lots of info here on any of those options.

what? I believe you're thinking of the D/R EJ tranny. but we're talking about an EA tranny....they're real common. I would highly recommend NOT using a D/R tranny. first, because a part-time 4WD tranny means (assuming it's built for the street) that it'll be in FWD much of the time. and the full-time 4WD trannies' lo range is virtually not noticable. and certainly unnecessary with the torque available from the EJ motors. if I swap out my RX tranny for something else, it'll be a single range 3.90 lockable center FT4WD XT6 5MT. or a 4.111 legacy 5MT. the lo range is totally useless with the EJ22. and if you're going with a bigger motor....you'll need it even less.

the injectors are fine. once the MAF/MAP (I forget which it uses) detects more air, it'll have the injectors put in more fuel. the stock airbox is good for about 300hp, but is hard to fit in the EA engine bay, easiest solution is a cone filter. not much gain in the power department, but it'll sound sweet, and ease the install process. pretty much all you'll need is exhaust and turbo. the stock VF11 is not a very good turbo, and the TD04 (stock WRX) is also a bit small, both are pretty well suited to the EA82t, but not so much to the EJ20/22. now, I don't know what you're options are exactly for turbos, but there are tons. a question like that is better suited for places like Nasioc.com or RS25.com where there will be tons of people with flow charts and dyno sheets etc. There'll be way more information about building an EJ motor on those sites. and maybe even a local club. most of what I know is from our local club, I've helped in many builds in the MNSubaru club.

the EJ22t from the t-leg is SOHC a 200hp N/A EJ22 would be very costly. especially in SOHC form. I hear that an EJ257 (sti block) with DOHC EJ20 heads (high CR), can be a pretty potent combo. but just the EJ257 shortblock will probably be more expensive than that EJ20G clip...

well, I can't say about DOHC, but I just went out and looked on my 2 wagons. and it appears that a SOHC EJ22 is almost exactly the same width as an EA82. they both appear to have about an inch between the valve cover and the framerail on either side. maybe a bit more on the EJ22. I don't know that the DOHC ones are wider, but I think so. also keep in mind, that if you use a DOHC engine, you'll need to pull it to replace spark plugs.....

yep, the EJ20G's are VERY capable. there's a local guy here who bought a front clip very much like that one, and put it in his impreza L. and holy crap is it fast!!! I beleive he's pushing high-200s to the wheels. I just realized it's DOHC though....you may not have enough room for a DOHC motor between the framerails. hopefully someone else will comment on that... also, what tranny does your wrecked t-leg have? if it's a 3.90 5-speed, that'd be a real nice setup. also, it should have a rear VLSD aswell. although most of those JDM EJ20G front clips include the rear LSD aswell....something to think about. also, keep in mind, that the displacement difference will be noticable on your torque curve. both in the sheer torque that the motor can put out, and the turbo lag. it may be a bit easier to get the peak hp mark you're looking for, but could be substantially less driveable.... yes, XT's are hard to come by, (remember, 4-cyl XTs are only 4-lug....just an EA82 with a fancy body. need an XT6 for 5-lug), but you only need one. I stumbled across one in a junkyard here last winter (that's right...MN winter...in a junkyard), and pretty much stripped it. seats, and all the suspension. the Duty C center diff lock mod is only for the automatics the center diff lock is available on RX full-time 4WD trannies, and XT6 5MT single range trannies. I don't think it was available on any other FT4WD cars. obviously, the PT4WD trannies are locking center, but when they're unlocked (need to be for pavement...you know this) they're FWD.

well, let's see, you'll need a turbo EA81 crossmember, or a custom up-pipe (that goes behind the crossmember), to get the exhaust gases up to the turbo. as far as the motor goes, the EJ22Ts already have forged internals, etc. so any machine work you do will be above and beyond that. you could have your crank balance for smoother running, and higher redline. you could have your cylindars bored and get larger pistons, you could get pistons that lower your CR (more peak boost, more lag). the heads are pretty good, but you could get WRX heads (DOHC) and improve your flow (a buddy of mine is doing this, DOHC EJ22T....essentially a 22b motor). BUT, I think the 200hp mark could be easily done with an improved turbo, and better flowing exhaust/intake. just do some maintenence things on the motor while it's out (once it's in, you won't be able to do much work on it, they're tight even in the EA82 engine bay, it'll be worse in the EA81s...) and as I'm reminded as I see raven's post. the open deck EJ20's are all easily capable of 200-300hp. even in USDM form, and an EJ20G like that one would be closed deck, very easily capable of 300+hp. an EJ20G like that one would also be newer, which would mean OBDII....which means 2 things, ALOT easier to tune/modify and have it run well, but harder to wire, not terribly, but there is more to it, and a slightly more complex ECU....just something to consider yea....I just started that EJ swap page, so it's not done yet...I suppose I should put a little 'under construction' graphic on there or something.....but I'll finish it soon. but essentially you want to pull all the wiring from the firewall forward, without cutting anything. Then strip it down so that all you have are the wires to the motor/sensors, and the ECU, the few gauge wires, and CEL read connectors. of course, if you're doing some fancy engine management....that's a bit different, and depends on which one you go with. 5-lug on an EA81 is pretty different, because your strut towers only have 2 holes, instead of EA82's and EJ's that have 3. which might mean you could just drill 2 or 3 holes in the right place, reinforce them, and be set. but I don't know. EA81 struts will not work with XT6 or legacy knuckles, however. If you can convert your strut towers to 3 hole, you can use legacy knuckles/hubs/rotors/calipers/struts/springs/axles. but you'll still need XT6 control arms, and rear hubs/rotors/backing plates and calipers (if you don't already have them, they're the same as 4-lug calipers) if you do use legacy front brakes, you'll lose you're handbrake, so you'll probably want to use 200SX rear calipers so you'll have a parking brake (I did a nifty little write-up in the USRM on how to do that). *This is all speculation...someone please correct me if I'm wrong* I wouldn't say the D/R 5-speed is too weak, they haven't really been tested. BUT, I'd rather go with the legacy 4.111 tranny. having driven a legacy with that tranny for a few months this summer, it's real nice. the RX FT4WD tranny is geared too short, even for the N/A EJ22. even though it's final ratio is only 3.70, the gears are too low. it's only advantage is the lockable center (way cool), but the legacies have a viscous LSD center anyway, so the performance is real similar. And PT4WD would suck, cause FWD is pretty much useless in an EA car with the torque of the EJ motor. whew....did I miss anything? and I'll try to work on that page some more tomorrow....but don't worry, it'll be done by the time you get ready to do your swap. I may even have a pdf version for easy printing. EDIT: I found a pic of my buddies custom up-pipe to go behind the crossmember and axle on his impreza when he turbo'd it: also, you'll want XT6 sway bars. seriously, if you're serious about this, get an XT6 parts car, especially if it's a 5-speed. I'd use a 3.90 5MT from an XT6 for this aswell....and some (if not all...I'm not sure) still had a locking center diff!

it says in your profile you've got an '84 wagon, but the one in your avatar looks very much to be an EA82 ('85+)..... photobucket is great, but if you're only going to show the pics here, it's just as easy (if not easier) to just attach them to the thread. you'll see a button when you're posting under 'additional options' called 'manage attachments'

yep, they're not much to look at, just a little peice of rubber hose clamped onto the bleeder. anyway, I didn't copy them to my computer. so I'll give morgan a call and see if he can email them to me. otherwise...I can just go take a new pic or 2 next weekend. I'll be seeing the buddy of mine that I sold that wagon to. and those speed bleeders are still hangin on!

add some marvel mystery oil with the new oil. and drive it for a few days. I bet it'll get better

I have a set of cheap adjustable coilovers for a GC8 impreza (95-01 i believe) on my Loyale. they're 450/400 lb/in springs on the front and rear respectively. with an XT6 front sway bar (still no sway bar mounts yet in the back), and stock shocks. it handles SOOO well, even with the cheap M+S tires I have on it now. it's pretty bumpy, but real tight. if you're staying 4-lug, the best shock you can get is pretty much the GR2. But if you go 5-lug, you can use impreza/legacy fronts, and get KYB AGX's (adjustable!!). Watch this thread for info on fitting 2000-current legacy GT rear stuff to your EA82. here's what it looks like now: and yes, very small world here with the older subarus, most of us know exactly what car you're talking about when you say you've got russ's old wagon EDIT: found a pic of those springs. they're R-1 Racing brand, though I haven't been able to find any others like them.... stock impreza on the left, R-1 racing coilovers, JDM WRX STi ver. V (or VI, I don't remember) on the right:

Morgan's not a subaru guy anymore. and I wouldn't be suprised if he is cleaning out the space on his server. I'll see if I have them copied, otherwise I'll call him and see if he still has them anywhere. Also, I just thought I'd add to this, for anyone who's thinking of doing the 200SX rear caliper conversion, the bleeders in those calipers are the same as the EA82 fronts.

I love how they don't match! are those the same tires/wheels you had on the ol' turbo brat? I know you had 30s on redrilled white-spoke chevy 6-lugs, and those look like they've been around awhile.... either way....they look awesome!

exactly correct. the autos have an electronically controlled hydraulic system that controls how much pressure is put on those clutch packs. can be modified to either release (FWD fuse under the hood), or lock (AndyJo did this with his Imp). anyway, Austin and I went up to the Iron Range ORV park near my house. it's THE place to go wheeling in MN. his imp did awesome. no sand or anything, so it's not quite the same, but we never noticed any slip between the front and rear. he got high-centered, with one front wheel off the ground, and the rears on the ground, and one of the back wheels dug a whole trying to move the car on it's own.... regardless, I'd take a part-time Dual range box any day.