Numbchux

about the flywheel, I did mine myself. with a dremel and grinding stone bit.....and just got the motor started last night, but revved it up to all of 5k rpms, with zero vibration! I have to admit, even with 88hatchmonster's reassurance, I was pretty nervous about modifying the flywheel, but it turned out great! I just used the flexplate from the EJ22 (donor car was an A/T), and kept modifying the holes until I could drop the bolts through all 8 holes. then walked over to the engine, lined it up, and bolted it in! worked like a charm!

well, I spent all day today putting on coolant lines, bleeding brakes, installing bumper, renewing the license tabs, etc. so I didn't get it posted up. well, first, we tested the crank and cam angle sensors, and found that when testing the A/C current generated by the cam sensor while cranking was about .5 volts at the plug on the engine, and only about .2 or so was making it to the ECU. so while it was firing, it wasn't always the right time. but we fixed that, and it didn't help, so we pulled the legacy harness out....again....set up a table (sawhorses and a piece of plywood), lots of good light, a couple pizzas, and lots of mountain dew, and 3 different versions of the wiring diagrams (one '92 FSM that I got from tex as a pdf, one FSM-based version in the Chiltons manual, and the haynes version, which doesn't have any references to which pin in the harness each wire goes to, but it has 99% correct colors!), and a complete pinout of the ECU (my buddy that was helping me works as a mechanic full-time, so he got it from the computers at work). we went through wire-by-wire, and made sure we had continuity between the ECU connector, and the other end (wherever it went form there...be it cam angle sensor, 02 sensor...or whatever), and we soldered all the connections (I had alot of crimped butt-splices....not a good idea ). then we sorted all the ign + wires out, and made sure they were all connected to the main relay somewhere. then we sorted all the batt + wires (only a couple, IIRC), and hooked them to one, fused wire that we could connect to the battery. then made sure everything that needed a ground had it. THEN, we found a discrepency....and a possibly crucial one. there's a wire, a Green one with a black stripe, that on the FSM diagram just goes to a ground on the engine. I didn't have a ground there when I had tested it before, so I spliced it in there. Well, when we had the harness back out, I traced it to the connector on the engine harness, and found that the wire doesn't come out the engine side of that harnes. so, we checked it on the ECU pinout. and it's a jumper that tells the ECU whether or not it's a California car. so if this is grounded it uses different settings for the California emissions standards. and we suspected, that it could be a different fuel/ign map, that doesn't exist on non-California ECUs....and that it confused the ECU...Anyone ever heard of that?? anyway, enough of that....here's a short clip taken at about 3:45 yesterday morning: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-833013657343945103 that's with stock legacy y-pipe and midpipe, and no axle back (= 2 cats, no muffler)

IT WORKS!!! but it's 4am...full explanation of what I did to make it work tomorrow....but it took about 10hrs....

and it worked! I remembered seeing this thread, and thought I'd look up the order before I bleed mine today....and it was the first one to pop up! anyway....are you sure your booster is connected/working? I don't think that would effect how many times you have to pump it, but it would certainly effect how strong they are!

yep, GD is right....once you get used to it, it's much easier to do them both at once. but I know that if I had tried it that way the first time I did my own timing belts, I wouldn't have got it on the first try (but I did!). I'd recommend doing it the 'right' way a couple times before doing it all at once. it's easier to spend a little extra time doing it the first time, than doing a sloppy job the first time, and having to do it again....'measure twice, cut once' as they say

you set the driver side one straight up, align the flywheel marks, install and tighten that side belt. rotate the crank one full turn back to the flywheel marks (driver side cam mark should be pointing straight down), then put the passenger side cam mark straight up, and install it's belt. that should get you on the road

I guess I'll check that. the timing belts were done only a few thousand miles ago, and I didn't touch them when I swapped the motor over. UPDATE: the timing belts are fine. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body....and got nothing. I added a couple grounds in a couple places under the hood. made sure all my solders for crank and cam sensors had held, and weren't shorting to any adjacent wires. I'm going to have dinner, and then pull a fuel rail and see if the injectors are getting signal... truth be told, I haven't figured out how to pull codes on these

I thought I'd post a new thread, so those of you who actually might help don't have to sort through the play-by-play of my weekend in the garage, and I'd just give the cliff notes. anyway, I need this car running this week. school starts a week from today, and I need to have this car then. SOOO I'm getting desperate. here's the story: I have: Spark (which means ECU is getting signals from most, if not all sensors) Compression Fuel pressure to/through the rails but no combustion I've checked: power/grounds to ECU (tomorrow will double check, probably will add a couple more ground wires to the body too....) continuity between the ECU and TPS, knock sensor and all 4 injectors fuel lines are hooked up correctly to the rails for clogs in the rails (I removed the pressure regulator, put a bucket under it, and turned the ignition on, and fuel came out...) plugged the ECU into our '94 legacy, and it works fine I'm also assuming that all the sensors etc. on the engine work fine, since this engine ran awesome in the donor car before it was pulled. and it wasn't transported at all, just lifted out, it hung on the hoist for a few hours while I redrilled the flywheel, then I dropped it in the loyale. I did just realize that I never installed the O2 sensor....it's plugged in, but just sitting in the spare tire well (wires will need to be lengthened, and I forgot). would this cause my lack of fuel? I figured a bad signal is better than no signal at all, and it should at least squirt in a little fuel, but it's not firing at all....nothin... please, any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I've heard them just say MY__ and put the model year after that.....like MY01 or MY98....I've always just assumed it stood for 'model year'

I'm assuming that the injectors aren't getting a signal. but if my cam/crank angle sensors weren't hooked up, wouldn't I NOT get spark?? EDIT: just plugged the ECU into our '94 legacy, works fine. and I pulled the pressure regulator off, and there is fuel running all the way through the rails. so it has to be the injectors. I'm having trouble beleiving that all 4 signal wires from the ECU to the injectors are getting bad signal, but I'll rig something up to test that today. is there a sensor (i.e. crank angle etc.) that JUST controls fuel? and wouldn't effect the spark? EDIT 2: I just checked, and I have good continuity between all 4 injectors, the TPS, and the knock sensor and the ECU...

I wouldn't think so...this engine ran AWESOME when we pulled it out of the donor car 4 feet from where it sits now...

MNOHV.org (which was started by our own MorganM) is hosting a peaceful rally at the MN state capitol this fall. Anyone who can attend I highly recommend it... Date: October 21, 2006 (Saturday) Time: 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM (noon) Location: Minnesota State Capitol: South Mall near Aurora Ave. more info: http://www.mnohv.org/events/savethetrails.php and http://www.mn-jeep.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8126 (you may need to be a member, but the MN Jeep club is the center of most of the positive, legal offroading here in MN) The Chuxwagon may be making an appearance at the rally as an example of a safe, legal ORV. mods....a sticky would be highly appreciated!

probably, it was built by/for Ratty2Austin in Washington, then he sold it a couple years ago to NoahDL88 in Michigan. Noah has since sold it and moved back out to Washington.... it was one of the first in the country to do an EJ22 swap into an older style subaru. I pioneer of sorts...

yep, I doubt anyones going to be in the shop until monday anyway, even if it weren't for the show. and I'm pretty sure you'd be the first to get an EJ lift, so I doubt anyone's got a manual for it, are you sure it's the right lift, and just the wrong manual?

never heard it called the MY...just gen 2s/EA81s....maybe you guys refer to them differently down there. don't forget hatches, they were all EA81s just like the brat

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/bratguy-decals.html quick search for "subaru font" turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/soobfonts/soobfonts.html

hella optilux has a basic combination driving/fog lights (2 bulbs, 2 diffusers, one case!) that's pretty cheap considering it's 2 pairs of lights, and all required wiring! I got mine from JCWhitney: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003770/p-2003770/N-111+10201+600002818/c-10101 heres how they were on my '85 (even though that bumper/grill is now on my loyale): and, you can easily get 2 radioshack rocker switches, and wire each pair of lights to it's own circuit, which also allows you to turn on both pairs at once! that's 4 55w bulbs in those 2 little packages!

very common. check the retrofitting section. I beleive you've got the 4-speed, which isn't so tough, but the 5-speed.....is btw....legacies didn't come with a turbo 2.0. just imprezas/WRXs, legacies had 2.2 or 2.5

ok.....so I'm a spaz.....I had the diode on backwards...so I've got spark now... but it still won't fire. I've got the fuel pump relay completely rewired, not running off the ECU. would this cause the ECU to think that the pump was not hooked up? and therefore not tell the injectors to fire? EDIT: nevermind, just wired the relay correctly....still no go. so I've got: compression Spark Fuel pressure (to the fuel rails) but no combustion....oh yea....I've also got confusion

thanks for the link, and now that I look at it, I've read it before. anyway, XSNRG ground on the holder to make it clear, but I don't think it's quite that close. I'm afraid that in order to grind enough off, I'll grind it right through good to know he did it with a 4-lug car though! and yes, all the conversion parts where pulled from a MN junkyard, and the trailing arms and such were from my '85, which was an iowa car.....just a little rust there

yea, I've seen the FSM from a couple different sources, and the diagram appears to be identical to the one in my chiltons manual. so I hooked it up that way. anyway, I just went out and tested it on my dad's '94....and the green wire has power all the time, and the yellow is IGN +.....which makes no sense, because the green wire is the one that switches the IGN relay..so if there's power there all the time, how is the relay not tripped all the time :confused: GAAAHH, I know it's only been a little while since I origionally posted this, and most of the people who know are at WCSS....but PLEASE HELP ME :( :o (we need a crying smiley)

that does help....actually. I never even noticed that there is a switch on my multimeter just for the diode :-p ok, how about another question....which way is it supposed to go?? is it supposed to allow power to the ECU? or from it? my haynes and chiltons manuals don't agree. Also, the yellow wire feeding power to the non-ECU side of it, that's supposed to be IGN + right? Yea, I'm not sure how or when it happened, but my diode was removed (for the record, my dad did virtually all the interior stuff when we stripped the donor legacy :-\ ). so I've got to rewire it. I thought I had it right...but now I'm thinking otherwise

still...without a caliper, you should be able to put the wheel on, and set the car down. or are you talking about the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor?

ok, I finally got some time to put into my EJ22 swap project again. but I still can't get it to start. I've got no spark. I've got power to everywhere where the should be power at the ECU. I've got grounds everywhere there should be grounds. I've got power to the yellow wire on the coil pack. I tested all the sensor connections when I had the harness out this week. checked for continuity between the ECU connector and the sensor connector. so I've got a good connection from the ECU to the Crank and CAm angle sensor. knock sensor, ignitor, injectors, etc. the only thing I'm not sure about, is that diode. I've got power to the one side, but I'm not sure if it's working right, how can I test it at the ECU connector? I tried hooking my test light up to it and a ground, and got nothing.... any other ideas? how can I test the crank/cam angle sensors? they were good when I pulled the motor, but I might as well test them too.... btw, this is a '92 legacy EJ22

put the wheel on, put the car on the ground. you should be able to get at it without the center cap on your wheel otherwise...handbrake? or have someone (or a conveniently sized stick) hold the brake pedal down...