Numbchux

Looks like you guys had a blast! sorry I couldn't make it...but it's just too crazy this time of year.

not done yet, and neither is most of page 3. and I'll add some pictures too.

the driveshaft still rotates even when in 2WD. could be u-joints, it's certainly worth a look. sounds sort of like tranny mounts, but that would explain it while not under load. But check all those anyway, and also look at the pitch stopper mounts. those things aren't terribly likely, but they're very easy to diagnose.

sure thing. I've heard of people using the EA81 wheels on an EA82 by using a few washers on the lug studs. but that makes me a bit nervous. might aswell just get the right ones.

not just any 4-lug subaru. the Justy had a small lug pattern, so those won't work. and most EA81 wheels won't fit over the EA82 brakes. gotta get a set from the same body style as yours (EA82). so any GL/DL/RX/XT '85-'89 except the 2 door hatch or brat. or any loyale no justy no brats no XT6 (5-lug) no hatch's

^^ all true. with that said, I'd like to clarify about the silverstars. they're not just tinted bulbs, they do burn hotter (a touch more likely to burn out....unfortunately), and most definately do put out more light than a regular Halogen of much higher wattage (I back-to-back tested it! DEFINATELY better!)

yep, the crossmember is different, however a custom up-pipe could be bade to go behind the crossmember and passenger side axle. a buddy of mine and I put a turbo on his 2.2l impreza. we used a t-fitting on the oil pressure sending unit, and bent a custom line up over the intake manifold to the turbo. and had an inlet welded onto the oil pan for the return line. the coolant lines can be tapped into the heater core lines. we also had a custom up-pipe made so the stock crossmember could be left. if you're doing a full engine swap, I'd recommend swapping the crossmember aswell. it's virtually the same amount of work. I'm also fairly certain you'll need the wiring, but I'm not sure on that. you're best bet for information on this sort of swap, is http://www.nasioc.com or http://www.rs25.com lots of information on either site about swapping EJ motors and what works best and how to do it.

when I finish my car's buildup, I plan on having my XT6 rear rotors cryo treated. and then using legacy front knuckles, for upgradeable goodness.... I really want to see if there are any rear caliper upgrades for a 200SX

I've never head of anyone doing it...and I don't know why you would. the RX tranny is already geared pretty low. the only reason I can think of needing that little extra gearing is when offroading....in which case you might as well just use a part-time 4WD tranny, and not mess with the center diff lock.

well, the EZ30 is going to be at least as much work as any other engine swap, and probably more, because it's physically a biger motor. and doesn't have that much potential unless you're doing a full-on build, and still.... the automatic tranny is you're #1 problem. they rob horsepower, and even more torque, like nothing else. if it's even remotely a possibility for you, I'd be looking at a 5-speed swap first. N/A motors can easily take some boost. there's a local guy who just slapped (as much as you can say that) a WRX turbo/intercooler on his impreza. the OBDII factory engine management system can easily compensate. now, running the full 8psi of boost that the WRX turbo can put out in stock form, he's sacrificing some reliability, and he knows that. but that turbo can be modified to put out about 4-5psi. which should be good for about 50hp at the wheels, and won't sacrifice your reliability much at all (depending on how you drive it)

There's DeathHatch's hatch....HUGE, and with solid front and rear axles. I think he had some trouble with the steering linkage, however.... I know he's got some awesome pictures of how he mounted all the leaf spring shackles and stuff in his photo gallery here on the board. and yes, of course a full frame has to be built. mostly because that's the only way to mount a divorced transfer case, which is more than essential in this sort of a project.

Hey, looks awesome! don't take any of our comments the wrong way. we all love to see other guys modding their soobs, and doing what they were meant to do.... but, in all reality....I bet both of my EA soobs (one 4" lifted, other lowered w/ EJ swap) cost less than your outback and are just as reliable. Just have to know where to look :cool: but at the end of the day....I certainly understand the saving-money-cause-I'm-a-poor-student lifestyle :-\

you're missing out

gas tanks are the same. no need for a swap also, don't need a center punch. there are already little 'divots' where the holes need to be drilled. you can't miss, really! but yea...that sounds like an awesome plan. definately doable!

I've got a buddy that with a little fabbing put a EA82 wastegate on a TD04. so it runs only about 5psi max. it worked real well on his impreza....

I believe he's referring to the Rally cross

haha, nah, just doin it different. Most of my favorite trails involve dry, hardpacked dirt, rocks, and fallen trees. have to use alot more finesse to get through that stuff without destroying the car.

I'm going the one-peice driveshaft route on mine. a local shop quoted me $80 to do it. if you do it this way, there is zero cutting and welding. just drill/tap 4 holes in the back. other than that, every bolt/stud/nut is already on the car. I would highly recommend it. it really isn't that bad, and I think if you've got all the parts ready, 2 weeks is a very generous timeframe. you'll probably want another set of hands for the rear subframe however, and at least 2 sets of jackstands...

yep, my point exactly. that's not trailriding. that's mudding (well, except the snow....but I assure you, the trails up here look alot like that in the winter) grant...ever driven a car with swampers on it, ON the road? definately not designed with street handling in mind.

I avoid sand and mud like the plague. if you're on rocks, and running close to the limit of what your car can handle, you can back up and take a different line. if you're in the mud...you're just stuck.....I hate it.

can't weld the carrier itself, but the bracket, you can. That's how MorganM did it on his old lifted wagon (which I had for most of this last spring). and the clutch started failing, and I don't have an engine hoist.... my loyale was a FWD 3AT -> RX D/R 4WD conversion, among other things...

I just did the math, and those tires are still only designed to hold about 3300 lbs....isn't that about the DRY, unmodified curb weight of a subaru? not to mention spare parts/tire, gas, passenger(s), bumpers, etc. it sounds sweet, but I think you might be pushing your luck a bit. But test it out, maybe those numbers are on the conservative side.

that's a whole different sport. the one I participate in involves alot less happy pedal I rarely get the fenders dirty. sure, I twist and break control arms, rip my skidplate mounts out, and bend bumpers....but no dirt :-\

shocks are the same. and as far as I've been able to tell, front axles were the same. in fact, I've heard that the FWD shafts were the heavier duty ones....or had better quality control, or something. anyway, the rear diff hanger/mustache bar is quite easy to mount. just drill, and tap. there are even little dimples on the framerail were they need to go. just look on the donor car where they need to go, and then look on yours, you'll see it right away.h the center carrier is the hard part. there are little plates welded to the driveshaft tunnel on 4WD car that the center carrier bolts to, these plates are just not there on a FWD car. there's nothing to drill and tap into at all. currently, I've got the front half of the driveshaft hanging from the linkage to hold the fluid in, and am driving with the center diff locked (RX tranny) until I can afford a custom driveshaft. another option is to just weld the center bearing bracket directly to the driveshaft tunnel, but if you do that, you can't drop the tranny without pulling the engine. or, make you're own bracket to bolt it to. QMan's exactly right about the rear subframe. it all comes out as one peice, just disconnect the brake lines, and a couple clamps on the fuel lines (don't need to actually disconnect the lines, but they're clamped to the subframe in a couple places, don't do what I did and have the whole thing hanging by the lines before I realized what was happening!) anyway, you need the tranny, linkage, and this (except yours should have brakes on it): oh, and it's 14 bolts.....hehe