Numbchux

the parking light bulbs are already clear. you'd need to modify the lense itself.

Not only can it make pretty easy work of the local Neon and Civic guys (despite it's relatively stock engine). It's proving that it's an SUV in every sense of the name!! that's 4 8' peices, and 3 2.5' pieces of laminate shelving, aswell as a fullsize spare tire, spare fluids, and $100 worth of random Holloween party supplies from target.....

GD: I agree wholeheartedly as to the capability of independant suspension. I got to spend an afternoon with a group of hummers (real ones, not ugly suburbans...). and boy was it impressive. HOWEVER, we're not dealing with a hummer, it's a subaru. and in order to get the subaru up to the hummer level, you'd still have to completely reengineer the entire car......solid axles would be simpler, and almost as capable.....or daily drive the subaru and buy something beefier to start with.

my equipment was point the car at some trees, turn on with regular 9004s. then swap to silverstars. WAY more detail. same thing in my girlfriend's escort. HUGE noticable difference, no expensive equipment needed.

you wouldn't beleive it!! the extra traction, and flex (since the tires can flex some too, you can more easily keep some of all 4 tires on the ground). I usually go to 12-15, but I'm using cheap tires, and on the rocks, so I have to be real careful of the sidewalls. also, when airing down, it helps spread out the weight, if you're on fully inflated tires, you have a much higher chance to get a flat on a sharp rock!

you need to decide what you want first. if you're doing a divorced tcase, and if so, what you're using for axles/diffs. if you're staying with independant suspension, but also going to a divorced transfer case. the torque of an EJ22 and that much gearing is going to destroy stuff. namely diff stubs as GD said. if you have to go EJ22, convert it to an automatic. that way you can get the steady application of power so you won't destroy stuff. if you do go divorced tcase, you can run it with the subaru tranny in lo, and the divorced tcase in RWD hi, for some reduction, but not insane, and 2WD, so you can use it on the road. if you are going divorced tcase, however, I would highly recommend solid axles, that would solve alot of your reliability problems. but even so, I wouldn't consider an EJ22, because that much strain on the drivetrain will probably destroy the rear output on your tranny (you wouldn't be the first!). offroad subarus are really best with 4" lift, stock drivetrain, EJ22, welded rear, custom skidplate, and custom tube bumpers. beyond that, the ball really starts rolling on things that need to be reengineered (and even with that setup....be prepared to go through rear diff stubs). cliff notes: if you're adding a tcase, stay with the EA82, that way you'll have a harder time breaking things. if you're not, go EJ22.

WOA!! back up there, this is for an offroad rig?? then an EJ22 will be overkill, especially if you're using a second, divorced transfer case. offroading isn't about power, it's about gearing, and with 2 tcases, you'll have more gearing than you'll know what to do with. seriously, find a local wheeling group (not fullsize pickups with 40" swampers that go tear up the wildlife habitat... look for jeeps, toyotas, nissans, etc. http://www.nsw4x4.com is my favorite local group), and ride along with them, if they're serious, and responsible, they'll be more than happy to oblige. and you'll quickly see that it has nothing to do with sheer power.

DOH, didn't notice the 98 outback part, I was just thinking EA82... I always accounted for the difference, at 50 mph, my speedo was almost exactly 10 mph off (according to my GPS). that's 20%. so everytime I calculated mileage, I added 20% to the trip odo, and then calculated it.

I'd highly recommend changing the tranny. because it really sucks having all that low end torque, and only FWD. you really can't use it, except when passing. if you do go EG33...get a legacy 4.111:1 AWD 5MT and rear diff. or any EA82 full-time 4WD trans. even an XT6 one (not sure on the fitment of that....though) about the XT6 motor....it has the normal EA82 crossmember, but it also has one more motor mount out in front of that. you'd have to get pretty creative in attaching that. a local guy put an ER27 in his lifted hatch, and cut out the front of the car, all the radiator supports. moved the radiator forward, then built a beefy front tube bumper that holds the front of the car together, aswell as the front of the engine. the EJ swap is really the best option. the 4-cyl fits incredibly well, and is very light. the MPFI and comp. controlled ignition, aswell as superior intake/head design allow for way more torque than you'd expect from just a .4L displacement increase. it's going to be the same swap electrically speaking as anything else you're talking about (simpler, in fact, since there are only 4 injectors etc.). the bellhousing is a snap. the cost difference between an EG33 and EJ22 will be far greater than the measly cost for an adapter plate. parts are much more available/affordable for the EJ22 than any other option. and it still has too much torque for just FWD (unless you drop a ton of money into tires...) oh yea, and an EG33 has the same bellhousing as an EJ22

wheelin with the doors off FTW!!!!!! looks sweet. I wanna see this half door creation you speak of

these, and the diagrams in the chiltons manual saved me in my EJ swap:

is yours lifted?

in the city. but in my experience, the freeway miles were only 2-3 mpg worse (well....at ~80mph anyway)

huh....ya learn something every day!

5 I have no idea what it is that you're talking about.....just maintenence things that should be done while the engine is out? actually...my 4-cyl EA82 PP is holding quite well.... I didn't have this problem....what year was your donor car? not completely incompatible (is that a word?), just different resistance. it still works, but if the needle makes it up to halfway, the motor's toast. I wanted to do this....but the MAF comes into the air box at different angles. adapting the MAF wouldn't be too hard, looked like just a matter of drilling new holes. maybe you're using an impreza intake plenum..... why did you use the little right angle bends on the heater hoses? I just used about a bit over a foot of straight hosing. worked awesome and what's that line you're holding? just A/C? your wagon is lifted....isn't it? I have a feeling that's why we've got a few discrepencies.

um.....I realize you probably don't care, but the turbo 4EAT FT4WD trannies had no center diff lock. in fact I was under the impression that any non-RX turbo EA82 had FT4WD without center lock. and yes, it is a true center diff. I've got an RX tranny in my loyale, and with no driveshaft in it, I unlocked the center diff, and let out the clutch for a moment. the car didn't move at all. just like it was in neutral.

the key is the use of the legacy center diff. we discussed this a couple years go, maybe it was beefaru we were talking about, but IIRC the problem was getting the newer pinion gear to mate up with the old diff/4WD assembly.

there isn't a notch on the bottom of the covers. it's lined up almost exactly with the seam between the cam case and the valve cover.

w00t! I found it actually....my girlfriend spotted it first :-p

looks awesome!! I have one question for you, however....how do you like the gearing? I know after driving my EJ22 --> RX tranny powered loyale for about a month, the gearing is incredibly short for the torque that the motor puts out. I doubt I'll ever use lo range. I can't imagine the same gear ratios with a lower final drive . unless, of course, I was using substantially larger tires.

:slobber: :slobber:

oh, most definately!! overkill is much better than underkill!

that's definately overkill on the welding there! works best to take a peice of something metal (bolt with the head cut off works well) and weld it into where the gears mesh. then spot weld the gears to each other, aswell as to the sides of the carrier in a few places. my uncle always says that back when he was doin all his wheelin, they would cover the sides of the carrier with tin foil, melt down some lead, and pour it in. on the bigger rigs, they'd break it all apart in a weekend, and have an open diff again for the trip home, but in his little 82 4-cyl yota, it never broke in like 4 years! but now that he's back in it...he's just gonna get air lockers for his land rover :-\

get a multimeter, and use it to look for A/C voltage between the 2 signal wires on the crank and cam angle sensors. each should generate a littlle voltage (not the same...btw, they spin at different speeds). check for this at both the plug on the engine, and on the same wires at the ECU. this was one of the problems with my EJ swap. the sheilded wire for my cam angle sensor was not letting all of the power through. IIRC we got about .5V at the plug on the engine, and barely .15V at the ECU. so it was sparking, but not at the right time. another thing to try, pull both the plug wires off the coil on one side, and crank it. the spark should arc to the intake manifold. it should have a relatively predictable pattern between the 2 (I don't remember if it's just back and forth, or if it sparks twice on each). That was our first clue, when we did mine, it would spark once on one, and then always on the other. When we strung some new wires (don't need to be sheilded....BTW) to this sensor, we got a regular spark pattern, and it would start with a little starting fluid in the throttle body (I still had to redo alot of things to get fuel...but that's a different story) also, to verify that you have fuel pressure all the way across the rails, pull the regulator off (back of the passenger side head), and put a bucket under the end of the rail. turn the ignition on (don't need to crank), you should have fuel come out of there for a second. but I'm guessing that while you were wiring the tach and temp wires, you bumped something that's causing it to not work now. probably crank or cam angle sensors.

have you tried starting it? I'd assemble it to the bare minimum to attempt starting, and see if it runs. if it's off, even just one tooth, it won't start, and if it does, it'll run like total crap. when I did my first timing belt job, I didn't remove the disty. I took the cap off to verify it, and had to adjust it for the ignition timing, but never had to take it off....