Numbchux

too much sheer force on that lift block(s) will pull it out of the framerail. whether the bolt's loose or not. it helps to have the AA one peice design, but nonetheless. These cars aren't real tough, they'll do some amazing things, but only with careful driving, otherwise they will just fail, as you're finding out.

regardless of the tread pattern, 10" wide tire vs 8.5" wide, that's the difference between digging through to solid ground and stuck up in the muck. not to mention 26" tall vs 29"...there's an 1.5" of pure ground clearance. and then, the lugs are too far apart, with the weight of a car on them, they won't push enough material to maintain any momentum..... sounds like 3 times to me but then, that's mostly speculation.....I say go for it, and tell us for sure how it all works out.

well, I'm not sure how to replace just the glass. but I put a lawn mower handle through the back window of my old '85 GL Wagon. I got a whole new hatch from the local Junkyard off a Loyale. pretty easy swap. and it's way easier than making sure the gasket seals, and the defroster still works, etc. That's how I did it, worked great....Good Luck!!

so does that mean that any rear suspesion for an '05 LGT can be put in the rear of an EA82? I'll be needing some real suspension next summer....hopefully this will open a new door or 2.

Ah, I see.....well, in all honesty. you pretty much can't go too big if you're only doing a cat-back. I'm not running anything beyond the cats. I've the y-pipe, mid-pipe, and that's it. so I've got 2 'cats' (though they have 240k miles on them....there pretty much rotted out), and no muffler. gives it a nice bark, and it's still got gobs of lo-end torque. when I get a custom system made, I'm going to go with ~2.5" the whole way. I know a couple local guys who've done this, and it seems to give a nice sound (with a resonater and thrush glasspack), and lots of torque.

Sorry guys, I'm not going to make down there this year. I just don't have the time to be driving all the way down there 3 weeks into the school year. so...good luck....have fun.....and TAKE SOME PICS

I'm not sure about over there, but here in the US, EJ AWD trannies all have center LSDs. the 5-speeds have a viscous coupler, and the 4EAT have a series of clutch packs. it's the fronts that are only LSD in the STi. but you can get aftermarket ones (OBX makes a nice helical one for a reasonable price, not sure about over in AUS, though) that work just fine. and after driving my loyale for a few weeks with the RX tranny (1.2:1 lo range), it's just not enough. there's almost no difference at all. anyway, if I were you, I'd go with a mildly built EJ22 and an EA82 5-speed D/R tranny (that's what I plan on doing next summer )

haha, either that or the 'similar threads' links at the bottom of the page.

that's because it's 3 years old :-p

don't need to replace them. don't need to modify them at all, just use an adapter from 1 1/4" (radiator side) to 1 1/2" (engine). not sure what you mean with the exhaust question. IIRC, none of your stock EA81 exhaust will work. you'll have to use some of the EJ exhaust, and have the rest custom made anyway. LOTs of really good info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48848 and I'm trying to put together all the info onto one site, I've got alot of it already done, but not all of it: http://www.geocities.com/NumbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ

ANOTHER 3 year old thread?!

at 8-9 psi....yes at ~5 and somewhat conservative driving.....no

I don't know if I have a pic of it, but I've got mine out, so if I have time this weekend I can take one. anyway, Allied Armament here in the states basically took those three blocks, and put a peice of metal along the outside edges to connect them all, that way the forces are applied more efficiently to the unibody. Scott....I'd really like to know how you did it. have any pic of your modified radius rod??

a buddy of mine did this, with upgraded injectors, and piggyback ECU ('96 impreza L auto with PerfectPower 6 for management) and only 5psi of boost (EA82 wastegate on TD04) and had nothing but problems. he actually took it off about 6 months later for the sake of reliability. BUT, another local guy just did the same, except with stock injectors and ECU, and 3psi more boost, and it runs awesome! as long as it's an OBDII (which your car should be) it's smart enough to compensate for the extra air. and he said that when he ran the OBDII diagnostic tests, it said the injectors were only running at 93%, so there's some room for more boost!!! now, keep in mind, although it's running awesome now, he only did this because he just finished his EJ22T (closed deck) build up, and wants to kill the motor that's in it. he is not expecting it to last through the winter. long story short, I've got no definitive answer, just a couple personal situations to think about. if I were doing this (and I might....someday), I'd run less boost, and no management.

then you must have had the wrong nuts or something.... either way, you only need the pug nuts if you're using alloy wheels. as they need the big centering washer. not necessary for the steelies.

not sure what you mean....all the kits run the higher risk of having the bolts coming loose. but if you're referring to the leading rod mounts getting horsed up with the new 'one-piece' blocks, I don't think so. they're a HUGE improvement!

chef_tim found the longer studs IIRC. you don't need new studs, however. you just need the pug lug nuts. as they have large centering washers on them, or get the ball seats. find the post stickied in the wanted section, McBrat posted a link to the ball seats that allow you to use the subaru nuts with pug alloy wheels

Just to the left of the radio, there's a little vent looking thing. it's immediately behind there. 2 wire pink plug. easiest way to access it is by removing the radio

strut rod....aka leading or radius rod? the one going back from the control arm? if so, I had mine pull out. not because of loose bolts, just because those three blocks (early AA design, I've since moved to the update one piece design), don't transfer the forces effectiently. a buddy of mine and I fixed it, we cut out the area around each nut, welded a new nut to a big ol fender washer, and then welded that into the hole. it's been real solid ever since!

OK, I'm in the process of compiling all the information I can find on the EJ-swap onto one page. I'm using my Geocities account, but when it's done, I'll submit it to the USRM for publishing right here on the site. anyway, here's the link: http://www.geocities.com/numbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ I'm mostly using info from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48848 I'd like for you guys to check it out, and as I go, let me know if I should make any changes, whether it be in the formatting, or information. especially including spelling and grammer. I don't want it to look like I'm a total moron I'll bump this thread whenever I update the page.

yea, I spent many extra hours to hide/protect the wiring. how fast? it's hard to say, but it's definately the fastest N/A EJ22 powered car I've ever ridden in

OK, now that I've got things pretty much setup how I want it, I thought I'd post a few pics and a few mod list of my '92 loyale frankenwagon. now known as 'Swapzilla' ok, it started as a '92 loyale wagon, the SPFI EA82, and the FWD 3AT tranny. it was reliable as all getout, but slow, and crappy. mostly as a result of the tranny. as a result it inherited the nickname POSUV. well, after I got my '85 5mt d/r wagon, the loyale just sort of got pushed into the woods a forgotten. now, a few years later, we'd already parted out the '85, and it came time to do wheel bearings, ball joint, tie rod ends, shocks, etc. etc. on my mom's 240k mile '92 FWD 4EAT Legacy. so she replaced it with an '01 legacy. and, we began parting out the '92. this last spring I bought an RX tranny, and matching rear LSD. and a pair of adapter plates (one for the loyale and the other for the lifted wagon, a project for next summer). and this summer, I put it all together. using the rear trailing arm assembly, pedal box, and linkage from the '85, the RX tranny, LSD, adapter plate, and EJ22. Also, I got a set of 400/450lb/in adjustable coilovers that a buddy of mine had on his GC8 imp, as well as XT6 sway bars (only the front one is currently mounted), and a rear disc conversion (using 200SX calipers, for rear handbrake, though I haven't connected the cables yet.) I also used the front bumper and grill from my '85, instead of the fat lip look of the loyales. aswell as the white wagon wheels quick list: '92 loyale 4WD conversion MT conversion Rear disc conversion rear handbrake conversion XT6 front sway bar EJ22 RX FT4WD D/R tranny custom one piece driveshaft 400/450 lb/in adjustable coilovers White Wagon wheels and some pics, first with my H-alloys on it (these have real crappy tires, so I just did it to run to a local subaru meet one night): underhood: couple scenic shots here in Duluth:

bump. I want to know how this works!!

I didn't mean to say you didn't know what you were talking about. just that it also looks alot like the northern MN dirt too: it looks almost radioactive in that pic, might be the time of year. btw, that's Morgan's real wagon on the right

now that you mention it. my dad has a 90 amp alt for his Z31 that he got out of a maxima. IIRC, the easiest way to make that work was get a crank pulley off the maxima aswell so you can just run the serpentine belt, instead of the v- BUT, apparently if you get a v-belt pulley off a GM car with an internal fan (all of those things are crucial, and somewhat hard to find), it'll complete the puzzle. he already tried using any of the pulleys off of the number of subaru alts that I have laying around, and none of them worked.