Numbchux

gas tanks are the same. no need for a swap also, don't need a center punch. there are already little 'divots' where the holes need to be drilled. you can't miss, really! but yea...that sounds like an awesome plan. definately doable!

I've got a buddy that with a little fabbing put a EA82 wastegate on a TD04. so it runs only about 5psi max. it worked real well on his impreza....

I believe he's referring to the Rally cross

haha, nah, just doin it different. Most of my favorite trails involve dry, hardpacked dirt, rocks, and fallen trees. have to use alot more finesse to get through that stuff without destroying the car.

I'm going the one-peice driveshaft route on mine. a local shop quoted me $80 to do it. if you do it this way, there is zero cutting and welding. just drill/tap 4 holes in the back. other than that, every bolt/stud/nut is already on the car. I would highly recommend it. it really isn't that bad, and I think if you've got all the parts ready, 2 weeks is a very generous timeframe. you'll probably want another set of hands for the rear subframe however, and at least 2 sets of jackstands...

yep, my point exactly. that's not trailriding. that's mudding (well, except the snow....but I assure you, the trails up here look alot like that in the winter) grant...ever driven a car with swampers on it, ON the road? definately not designed with street handling in mind.

I avoid sand and mud like the plague. if you're on rocks, and running close to the limit of what your car can handle, you can back up and take a different line. if you're in the mud...you're just stuck.....I hate it.

can't weld the carrier itself, but the bracket, you can. That's how MorganM did it on his old lifted wagon (which I had for most of this last spring). and the clutch started failing, and I don't have an engine hoist.... my loyale was a FWD 3AT -> RX D/R 4WD conversion, among other things...

I just did the math, and those tires are still only designed to hold about 3300 lbs....isn't that about the DRY, unmodified curb weight of a subaru? not to mention spare parts/tire, gas, passenger(s), bumpers, etc. it sounds sweet, but I think you might be pushing your luck a bit. But test it out, maybe those numbers are on the conservative side.

that's a whole different sport. the one I participate in involves alot less happy pedal I rarely get the fenders dirty. sure, I twist and break control arms, rip my skidplate mounts out, and bend bumpers....but no dirt :-\

shocks are the same. and as far as I've been able to tell, front axles were the same. in fact, I've heard that the FWD shafts were the heavier duty ones....or had better quality control, or something. anyway, the rear diff hanger/mustache bar is quite easy to mount. just drill, and tap. there are even little dimples on the framerail were they need to go. just look on the donor car where they need to go, and then look on yours, you'll see it right away.h the center carrier is the hard part. there are little plates welded to the driveshaft tunnel on 4WD car that the center carrier bolts to, these plates are just not there on a FWD car. there's nothing to drill and tap into at all. currently, I've got the front half of the driveshaft hanging from the linkage to hold the fluid in, and am driving with the center diff locked (RX tranny) until I can afford a custom driveshaft. another option is to just weld the center bearing bracket directly to the driveshaft tunnel, but if you do that, you can't drop the tranny without pulling the engine. or, make you're own bracket to bolt it to. QMan's exactly right about the rear subframe. it all comes out as one peice, just disconnect the brake lines, and a couple clamps on the fuel lines (don't need to actually disconnect the lines, but they're clamped to the subframe in a couple places, don't do what I did and have the whole thing hanging by the lines before I realized what was happening!) anyway, you need the tranny, linkage, and this (except yours should have brakes on it): oh, and it's 14 bolts.....hehe

same as you're regular 9004 bulb. slightly lower wattage than you'd expect. they're not HIDs, they're tinted halogen bulbs. nothing too fancy. but they're just bulbs, there's no wiring/cutting/fabricating involved.

not sure what kind of trail riding you're talking about. but I've never wished I'd had more tread (liberator A/Ts or GoodYear M+Ss) while on the trail. even out in the greasier parts of the park, I've still had more than enough traction. one of my favorite trails:

I would HIGHLY recommend taking the doors off!! I did it with the front doors on my wagon for the Crawl 4 the Cure earlier this summer. and you really notice the weight difference, and you can see SOOO much better. you know exactly what terrain you're going over. on the structure of the car, you can have it teetering on 2 wheels, with as much twisting force on the unibody as possible, and still open and close the doors just fine. can't do that in a cherokee.... tell me this doesn't look fun unless you're doing some serious mud boggin (which...maybe you are....since you're getting ATV tires), it's pretty hard to get mud in the cab.

see, I always thought it would be the newer, FWD econobox 200SX. but my dad was going to the junkyard, and I failed to specify....I just said 200SX rear calipers. there was an '87, RWD, and I'm fairly sure it was a 4-cyl. he nabbed the rear calipers, and they worked great! maybe they're the same.... let me know if you find something out, and I'll add it to the write-up

even if you weren't going to put in a tcase....once you get above 4-6" you really need to build a frame under the car to give it the strength it needs. otherwise you'll mangle the unibody (it's easy to do with just a 4" kit, trust me )

on an EA82, you can remove the rear half. since there's a center bearing/bracket. it isn't any use, since it does exactly the same thing as putting the tranny in FWD....but you can remove it....

maybe the RX gears are shorter, but even with my very stock NA EJ22, I have no desire, whatsoever for lower gears (keep in mind, this is not an offroader). in fact, I think the gears are too short, even in Hi. I was hoping for gearing like this in lo range, and then switch it to hi for the street. now that I'm actually driving it, I doubt I'll ever really use lo range.

there's a guy here in MN who put HID's from a BMW into his GC8. took quite a bit of custom fabricating, but it worked. sooo....anything is possible. but it's hardly going to be plug and play. you can, however, get sylvania silverstar bulbs. they use a bluish tint on the bulbs, and look like HIDs, and actually make it way easier to see. I have a set on every car I have (and my girlfriends). they sell them at many auto parts stores, and even Target. for only about $30 for a pair.

4-lug suspension/brakes are completely different than any EJ stuff (i.e. 2.5 RS or STi). if you convert to 5-lug, you get bigger rears, but no room for upgrade beyond that, you'll still have the same calipers. but, if you use legacy/impreza front suspension/knuckles etc. in the 5-lug, the options for the front are endless

I've never heard of them. gotta get a bigger rim, use peugeot 4-lugs, convert to 6-lug, or drill out 6-lug wheels. lots of info here on any of those options.

what? I believe you're thinking of the D/R EJ tranny. but we're talking about an EA tranny....they're real common. I would highly recommend NOT using a D/R tranny. first, because a part-time 4WD tranny means (assuming it's built for the street) that it'll be in FWD much of the time. and the full-time 4WD trannies' lo range is virtually not noticable. and certainly unnecessary with the torque available from the EJ motors. if I swap out my RX tranny for something else, it'll be a single range 3.90 lockable center FT4WD XT6 5MT. or a 4.111 legacy 5MT. the lo range is totally useless with the EJ22. and if you're going with a bigger motor....you'll need it even less.

the injectors are fine. once the MAF/MAP (I forget which it uses) detects more air, it'll have the injectors put in more fuel. the stock airbox is good for about 300hp, but is hard to fit in the EA engine bay, easiest solution is a cone filter. not much gain in the power department, but it'll sound sweet, and ease the install process. pretty much all you'll need is exhaust and turbo. the stock VF11 is not a very good turbo, and the TD04 (stock WRX) is also a bit small, both are pretty well suited to the EA82t, but not so much to the EJ20/22. now, I don't know what you're options are exactly for turbos, but there are tons. a question like that is better suited for places like Nasioc.com or RS25.com where there will be tons of people with flow charts and dyno sheets etc. There'll be way more information about building an EJ motor on those sites. and maybe even a local club. most of what I know is from our local club, I've helped in many builds in the MNSubaru club.

the EJ22t from the t-leg is SOHC a 200hp N/A EJ22 would be very costly. especially in SOHC form. I hear that an EJ257 (sti block) with DOHC EJ20 heads (high CR), can be a pretty potent combo. but just the EJ257 shortblock will probably be more expensive than that EJ20G clip...

well, I can't say about DOHC, but I just went out and looked on my 2 wagons. and it appears that a SOHC EJ22 is almost exactly the same width as an EA82. they both appear to have about an inch between the valve cover and the framerail on either side. maybe a bit more on the EJ22. I don't know that the DOHC ones are wider, but I think so. also keep in mind, that if you use a DOHC engine, you'll need to pull it to replace spark plugs.....