Numbchux

just not true, welded is best, but you certainly don't NEED to weld it. and welding the front would be just downright dumb! clutch-type LSDs are a big step up over open, not as good as welded for the hardcore wheeler, but for most people's use, an LSD is fine. helical's are useless offroad.

no rats nest necessary: that's post-EJ22 swap. it's all up under the dash like it should be. wasn't even that hard, just had to pull off the fender.

so, what application did you get them for? all 4 for a early what, '01-'05 legacy?

when I parted out my '85, we had it stripped. pretty much just the shell, we put it on our little utility trailer, and took it to the scrap yard, it weighed in at just shy of 400 lbs. right after I dropped the engine, tranny, and both crossmembers out of it, we tried to pick the front end up (no wheels, so the only other thing touching the ground was the rear bumper), and couldn't. I'm not a big guy.....but my dad is. there's alot of car there! it's lighter, however, than your buddy's trans am. from sheer engine weight alone, the little 4 cyl aluminum 1.8 weighs a bit less than that 400 CI cast steel V8

SWEEEET!!!! is that the same fitment that WJM was talking about? I got to ride in an impreza with full tein flex in it today.....mmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Really stiff, but handles amazing! does that drop plate limit the travel at all? I would worry about having to lower the coilovers too much to compensate....or is there enough extra? I'm UBER jealous, and as soon as I can scrape together the cash, will be doing the same. and torxxx, that green is pretty much a tein trademark....I doubt they have any other color, but you could look.

I totally understand. on the swap, I did a very similar one in my loyale. 3AT to 5MT D/R (happened to be a RX tranny, but it's virtually the same), you're right on the money with the swap parts...I'm not sure about the driveshaft, but the crossmember is different (mounts are still there, and you'll need the longer bolts from the 5MT). it's actualy a pretty straightforward swap. the hardest part is getting the stupid pedal box in there. just make sure it's in Park when you disconnect everything, otherwise it might lock the key in the ignition.....that was a pain.

no. the suto didn't have a lo range. and the rear output from the tranny goes through a clutch pack, so while you're hillclimbing, you could just have one front wheel spin, and that clutch pack could slip. Auto's typicaly are preferrable for offroading (specifically rock crawling), but with no gear reduction. they're pretty much useless.

it's not a U-Pull type yard. so unless you're looking for the rear subframe, or an engine block or something, I'm sure you could have it shipped to you for little more than it would cost to pick it up in person.

yep, it's been discusse a few times. a local guy on MNSubaru found out a ton of info...I'll see if I can dig it up. sure enough: Cindy's Classic Autos. 300 Hwy 12 & 18 Cambridge, WI 53523. Phone# (608) 423-4307. "i just gave them a call. the guy said he has about 500 subarus there. the have a hand full of 94 sedans (not sure if impreza of legacy) some 93 sedans and wagons (again not sure if impreza or legacy) they have a 95 SVX. and then the remainign 475 cars are a mix of DLs Gls and opther older models. sounds like fun!" that's from March of 2005....

yep, it doesn't have to hold up to any really crazy forces, unless you're running a welded diff, and even then.

I've thought about doing that too.... and torxx..frequently the control arm twists with it. and I don't think it was engineered to be the first thing to give, it just wasn't engineered to do what we're doing...

I don't remember where or what, but I know I've seen a generic tent that folds out on a roof rack, similar to that. you could put it on anything...

I've mangled more than a few.....in fact, I used a pre-bent one when I relocated my radius rod bracket, much like you've done. I hope you find a solution, but mine has been to replace it with something already built beefy.

how much are the lifts going to be? AA had a legacy lift, but it was substantially more expensive than an EA lift, and still required outback struts to clear the tires. the ej adapter, and modified linkage, and a custom driveshaft... I'm meant bigger as in heavier. if you're going to use an EJ car to wheel, make it an impreza.

Justy's have a 4x100mm bolt pattern, I think it's the same as the old civics. I'm pretty sure there are a bunch of options.

lifting legacies is hard, and expensive. and they're much bigger cars than an EA82. and they don't have lo range.....

be careful with this, if the blocks are offset, than the forces are not transferred directly into the framerails. it's not like they're holding up the car, but I'd still over-engineer the blocks. XT4 steering rack is quicker than EA82?? hmmmm.....

if it's an '88, it's a GL, they didn't start calling them loyales until '90 either way, it'll be an EA82, which will simplify the build, the framerails in the engine bay are further apart, so other engines will fit a bit easier.

as far as the gearing is concerned, with a tcased rig, you can play with your final drive ratio very easily. and have 2 seperate lo ranges. I can garauntee there are a number of local trails I could do with the gearing that I can't without. and certainly the extra ground clearance of the tires would help. I think the stability depends on the lift. since it all has to be custom, a real ghetto one would make for a pretty scary ride, but if it's done right, it would be just as solid as stock. I've been looking into tcased rigs for quite awhile now, but have decided to just start out with a rig that's already got a frame, divorced tcase, real lo range, locker availability, and an Automatic....

I agree with Scrap on the engine stuff. not many options as far as EA81 engines are concerned. there was a turbo, MPFI version, but that'll still require wiring, and engine crossmember, etc. if you're going to go to the trouble of an engine swap, go EJ22. awesome motor, 130-140 peak hp, but TONS more torque, and a way more usable torque curve. and if you keep your eyes open, a donor car (HIGHLY recommend the donor car route, instead of buying just the motor/harness etc.) can be had for almost as cheap as your car (though I'd recommend putting some money into a little rebuild...). the 4WD conversion was quite easy on my EA82. and as far as I can tell, the only difference is the EA81s don't have a center driveshaft carrier bearing (one piece driveshaft....finding a mount for the center bearing on a FWD EA82 is interesting), and the gas tanks are different. but if you drop the whole rear subframe/torsion bar assembly as one, then the gas tank, and install in the reverse, you should be able to do it pretty easy. then tranny, driveshaft, linkage, which is all pretty much plug 'n play.

??? I've got a '92 SPFI engine, intake, and engine harness in my '88, with stock body harness. plug 'n play.

all of the above x 300

anything beyond about 4" is going to have to be pretty custom. SJR makes a 6" kit, but it'll require some fabbing to get it to work. if/when I build another, it'll be an SJR 4" kit. He's got it figured out. and it'll be riding on 29" swampers.

yep, that'd be it. mine doesn't look nearly that nice and shiny anymore, but still nice and strong. if you're even remotely skilled in fabricating, you could probably make one, but SJR makes a great one there, and it's not too spendy either.

FYI, don't go beyond 4" without doing something else to drop your diff. I ran with it at 5" for a month or so, and blew up (quite literally) 2 rear axles. I have since gotten a 2" diff shim, and cranked it back up to 5" without trouble for almost a year.