Numbchux

yep, that's how the advance auto one works. it seems to work great, I've got one on eacy of my soobs. the only downside, is the sound. it runs at extremely high rpm. sounds sort of like a Jet taking off....I can't hear it over the exhaust from in the car on either one. but outside of the car, it's definately noticable.

haha, whoops. I meant I'd recommend an EJ trans..... but yea, you get the idea.

great. maybe I have a nail or something small enough....

So, most of the shift linkage in my loyale, came out of a loyale from a junkyard, but I can't figure out how to get the knob off. it's got the 4WD button on the top (which I want to paint bright red, and then wire to the center diff lock ). It doesn't just screw off, so I have no clue how to get it off. it has a couple holes in it, maybe a pin sort of like the axles... anyone know?

then why do you need adjustable suspension? just get some cheap adjustable coilovers, and you're golden. and you mentioned in the first post deep puddles/mud and fallen trees....that's a different sport than rallying the other problem is if you want big tires. and still enough power to spin them enough to go rallyin, you'll start breaking axles and stuff AND, if you start making your wheelbase wider, you'll put alot of strain on your wheel bearings. but, like I said, don't let me stop you. but when it's done, and you start breaking stuff, and have to get towed home all the time, don't come whining to me about it.

you've got all your priorities mixed up. Prepare to waste alot of money. the stock axles can't even take the potential lift from the stock, adjustable struts. throw a suspension lift at it, and you won't make it to the offroad park. Air suspension is a waste of money on a jeep. There is no way to build a car that is awesome at everything. mediocre...maybe. but you won't be able to build something that will be able to comfortably and safely do some rallying, AND be able to crawl over a small log. but, don't let me talk you out of it

stock EJ22 fans are far too big. there isn't even room for a slimline between the rad and engine. it has to go on the front. and the stock fans don't really work that well on the front.

for rally cross, and anything but a n/a motor. I'd recommend an EJ trans. trust me, once you go EJ, you won't ever want to go back.

this is true of the EA82 aswell. I'd much rather have my gauge read low, but from the block, than have my gauge read normal, and be from the radiator....what if you blow a coolant line? the block will overheat, you'll toast the motor, and your temp gauge will probably go down because there's no coolant in the radiator.

in the long run. for the cost, solid axles are the only way to go on anything offroad. subarus are cheap, and suprisingly capable. but if you're going to put some money to step it up.....get solid axles, whether you're putting them under the soob, or getting something that already has them.

for the cost of a decent adjustable suspension that would allow both the performance capabilities you want, and the clearance for any decent offroading. not to mention 2 sets of tires. and the CV axles to handle the different ride heights, and still be able to articulate...etc. etc. you could just buy, build, and insure 2 subarus. one for each.

Why are you replacing the motor? if you just swap the shortblock, it's a pretty simple swap. but if you swap the heads and intake, you'll need to get into wiring, and ECU. the exhaust is the same, as long as your EJ22 is dual port. but if you're keeping the 2.5l heads, it won't matter.

oh, I know. you don't even need to pull the cluster. but I just didn't have time when I finally got the thing to run. and I haven't made the time since (still haven't been able to make the blasted defroster work)

I think as long as you're not launching the car hard, the EA trans would hold up longer than most people think.....but nonetheless, I think an EJ transmission would be much better suited to the EJ motor (I think the EA trans is geared pretty short for the EJ motor)

I bought an 11" slim electric fan from Advance Auto Parts. it fits easily in front of the radiator, and pushes more than enough air to keep the engine cool. the same company makes a very nice automatic relay with a little heat sensor that attaches to the radiator. It flows more than enough to cool the EJ22 through a stock loyale rad. this winter I'm going to have to cover the rad with cardboard! the darn thing almost never warms up. I'll see if I still have the box around, if not I'll stop by the store and post up some info about it.

I know there's a great write-up by QMan already in the manual. but I just did this swap again this last weekend, and took a few pics while I was doing it. and thought you guys might like to add them to the write-up. pieces to save from 3.9: LSD carrier to swap from 3.7 to 3.9: LSD carrier with 3.9 Ring Gear on it: All assembled but stub axles and rear cover: No grinding was necessary on either case. one from an '85 EA82, the other from an '88 EA81.

awesome list! The colors are all the same (for the plugs anyway...I don't remember all the wire colors...) for U.S. Spec... you'll also need a few individual wires for your tach and temp gauges. tach comes straight from the ECU, and temp comes straight from the engine. you'll need to find the corresponding wire for these in the EA81 harness, and splice them in.

an outback sport will have the same basic engine. but OBD II (more complex wiring...), and probably single port exhaust. yes, you'll need to replace the computer, and all the wiring between it and the engine. Mechanically speaking these swaps are a breeze....electrically, they're pretty difficult.

oh man. that is bad! I'm throwing an CEL because I haven't hooked up the vehicle speed sensor....maybe one of these days I'll get around to that....

91, to be exact (EA82 SPFI....carbed was closer to 80) anyway, the EJ22 was in alot of subarus. probably the best donor car would be a '90-'94 legacy. these have the simplist wiring system (OBD I), and are pretty common. easiest way is to buy a car that is rusted out, or has been rear-ended, and strip it yourself. Junkyard donors are possible, but you have no idea of the history, and it's a pretty big job to try to do in a junkyard. much easier to take your time in your own driveway/garage. pretty similar amount of work to any other engine swap, and is the best option as far as power/torque for your money!! about the info source.....I'm working on a conversion site. it's under construction, I should have some time off this week, so maybe I'll get around to finishing it! http://www.geocities.com/numbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ I'm mostly using info from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=48848

1 is definately your fuel pump relay. should have a green with black striped wire going to the ECU, that's what turns it on. I'm pretty sure 2 isn't your check engine connector, since that is yellow, and the one in the picture isn't.... 3 is definately the check engine connector. this will make it flash engine codes to you. definately leave that in there! 4 looks like stuff that goes up into the dash. probably a few things there that you'll need the brown one in 5 is your main relay, you'll need that. I beleive the green one is the starter relay, which is optional, I just used my EA starter circuit, and it's working fine. and yep, 6 is the fuse box stuff....you won't need any of that. just run your own wire with a fuse holder inline straight to the battery for that. and then tap in the few wires that need to be switched with the IGN right to the ignition switch. beyond that, if you don't know what a wire does, trace it to the other end. if it doesn't go under the hood, or to the ECU, you don't need it. that should get you down almost all the way. if it does go the ECU, reference it to the pinout I uploaded, and see what it does. then you can determine if you need it or not, if not, cut it out of there. I had origionally intended to just bundle everything extra up, and hide it too. but when it didn't run, it made troubleshooting a total pain in the butt.....so I pulled it all back out, and stripped it down. it was DEFINATELY worth the effort!!!

I've put about 2,000 on it since I got it running in August. once I got the connections resoldered at the Crank Angle Sensor, I haven't had a problem since. little hard starting in the cold, I think I'll put the wire for the block heater back in, and change the oil for some 5W-30.

the ECU does control spark, but unplug the fuel pump relay, turn the engine over a few times (to get rid of any fuel in the lines...), now spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body. it'll start and run for a few seconds. even rev a little (until it runs out) same idea, it'll continue to get a signal from the crank and cam angle sensors, and continue to send signal to the ign coils and injectors, but there won't be any fuel at the injectors. instead it'll be coming in with the air and through the intake. beyond that, I can't help you, except to say that I think it would be best to do it after the MAF....cause I bet the propane would render the sensor inoperable pretty quickly.

I know, it's cheaper to going divorced tcase. and certainly easier!

I thought my '85 was the most fun thing ever. heck, I loved my FWD 3AT loyale! until, that is, winter came, and I got stuck in everything (didn't have money for decent tires), and the actuator for the tranny started leaking and it would refuse to shift at anything above 3k rpms. then, I decided I wanted to build an autocross toy, and for now would include a bone stock EJ22 and an RX tranny. and let me say, it's definately more fun. "it's more fun to drive a slow car fast, than to drive a fast car slow" an EJ22-powered EA82 car is still slow enough to fit in that first category, where it really is pretty easy to drive it hard and fast, and be well within the acceptable limits of speed. but it much closer to the cutoff. but yes, I understand. but let me just put one more encouragement to do the swap. it's even more fun (if you can imagine it)!