Numbchux

I'd highly recommend these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003770/p-2003770/N-111+10201+600002818/c-10101 I've got a set. had them on my '85 for about a year. they're 2 different pairs of lights, in one. and, they use seperate bulbs. so you can easily wire them to 2 different switches, instead of the one, 3-way one it comes with. then you can control them individually...and have them all on at once! also pretty light weight. don't need much to hold them on. I used self-tapping screws on my '88. and that worked great. unfortunately, I dropped one this summer and broke the lense (Glass). so I'm probably going to have to buy a new pair.

no, the accord front springs are only for the rear. and there isn't any way to use EA82 rear shocks on the front. no way to hold the knuckle still. McBrat has RX springs on the front of his brat, with dual batteries, and a very beefy front bumper/winch. it seems to hold it up great. if nothing else, you could get adjustable front struts from an '85-'85 EA82 to get it to ride how you want.

this is a very good point, and the duty C bypass switch (for Autos) is not enough to turn a tcase. Mudrat tried that on his Beast-a-con, and couldn't get over a curb. so the tranny had to be pulled apart, and modified. Unfortunately, I've never heard of anyone else doing it, and he never was one to share his ideas, and now will be virtually impossible to get ahold of. Either way, if you use an EJ tranny, you'll have to pull it apart, and modifiy it to get all the power out of the rear output. or go even more custom, and swap in an EA82 D/R tranny (then you'd have 2 lo ranges! might be nice for 33s. 1.6:1 2WD) don't take that as criticism, though. I think it would be awesome. Just listing off a couple of the biggest issues with doing it.

correct, and just for the record, there is no difference in the brakes from FWD to 4WD. usually, it's the steelies. it may still be worth a test fit, but don't be dissapointed if they don't fit.

I've never had that problem. had this same fan on my lifted rig for about a year now. and my uncle's had one on his Land Rover (frequently wheeled) for probably about 5 years now....

still haven't had time to get the exact specs... but here's the setup I'm currently running... It's a 10" diameter fan. it can be set up for either side of the radiator, but since I've removed the A/C, there's plenty of room on the front of it. The same company makes a little relay, that has a temp sensor that attaches to the radiator. the 2 blue wires are the switched wires, one from a power source (directions say to use something switched, but I went right to the battery), the other to the fan. the little metal wire coming out the other side goes to the sensor, and the screw in the middle adjusts what temperature it comes on at. the fan attaches using little clips that go through the fins of the radiator. quick, easy, and strong universal mount. (you can see the temp sensor there too...it uses the same mount) and last, there's the fan, peeking out from behind the grill. That one fan, is more than enough to cool the EJ22, through a stock, 20 year old, single core EA82 radiator.

yep, or you can run it to a switch on the dash. it really isn't necessary to have the fan(s) on above about 30mph. actually, on my lifted wagon, I ran for months with just the stock electric fan, just manually switched so I could have it on all the time. then the bearing went out on it, so I replaced it with an aftermarket one. but the stock electric fan moves plenty of air for a non-turbo EA82. here's the setup I'm currently running on my EJ22 swapped loyale... It's a 10" diameter fan from Advance Auto Parts. it can be set up for either side of the radiator, but since I've removed the A/C, there's plenty of room on the front of it. The same company makes a little relay, that has a temp sensor that attaches to the radiator. the 2 blue wires are the switched wires, one from a power source (directions say to use something switched, but I went right to the battery), the other to the fan. the little metal wire coming out the other side goes to the sensor, and the screw in the middle adjusts what temperature it comes on at. the fan attaches using little clips that go through the fins of the radiator. quick, easy, and strong universal mount. (you can see the temp sensor there too...it uses the same mount) and last, there's the fan, peeking out from behind the grill. That one fan, is more than enough to cool the EJ22, through a stock, 20 year old, single core EA82 radiator.

yep, plenty.

I'd highly recommend removing the mechanical fan, and replacing with an Electric one. the EA82 cools itself very efficiently, and the clutch fan just robs power, and therefore mileage....

I think he means that he found some that could replace the EA82 coilover setup for longer travel. This is also a good idea....and I'm definately considering it.

like Jeffast said, they're different. similar, but definately not the same. That's why I say the 6-cyl is a completely different animal. They could be lifted using the same concept, but not the same parts (entirely...many of the parts are interchangeable....but not everything)

yep, the pump will be fine. I'm using the stock pump in mine (EA82 SPFI), with zero troubles.

this is true. but it seems like every time, it's been beat on, and with a higher output engine (built EA82t, built EA81, ER27...). if you're nice to it, and leave it with the stock EA82 motor (plenty of power, if you've got the gearing), it should last a long time. but yes, the effect is dual tcases...and therefore, 2 seperate reductions, that can be used independant of each other. including using the subaru lo range, and nissan 2Hi

+1 and because there isn't any offset in the front strut extensions....it won't compensate for the camber. I'm sure SJR could make something based on an EA82, that would work how you want it to....

4-cyl....yes the XT6s are a completely different animal...

10 or 11", I beleive. I've been really busy, but maybe I can stop in today and get some specs for you

yea, that's kinda what I was thinking....but. they use the same diffs. the axles are interchangeable IIRC, and since you can use EA82 rear discs on an EA81, the spindles have to be similar....so they can't be that much different....

so, I've been thinking. the biggest limitation to the rear suspension travel, is the shocks. with the EA82s, there really isn't a way to do that. but because of the torsion bars on the EA81s, longer shocks can be had..... soooo.....could an EA81 torsion bar be put under an EA82?

wow. I'd be worried about breaking diff stubs and stuff....just have to drive extra careful, I guess...

unfortunately. that's pretty much the case. unless you spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on an entirely custom setup, but then, there wouldn't much soob left in it..... it could be done, but for the cost, you could own 5 or 6 vehicles, one for each thing. and still have enough left over to daily drive a lamborghini....

what'd you do about wiring? if you swap heads and intake, don't you also have to swap wiring and ECU??

yep, that's how the advance auto one works. it seems to work great, I've got one on eacy of my soobs. the only downside, is the sound. it runs at extremely high rpm. sounds sort of like a Jet taking off....I can't hear it over the exhaust from in the car on either one. but outside of the car, it's definately noticable.

haha, whoops. I meant I'd recommend an EJ trans..... but yea, you get the idea.

great. maybe I have a nail or something small enough....

So, most of the shift linkage in my loyale, came out of a loyale from a junkyard, but I can't figure out how to get the knob off. it's got the 4WD button on the top (which I want to paint bright red, and then wire to the center diff lock ). It doesn't just screw off, so I have no clue how to get it off. it has a couple holes in it, maybe a pin sort of like the axles... anyone know?