Numbchux

cause his subaru wasn't worth the effort (I know, I had it for almost 6 months...and the rot had taken over!), and he replaced it with something with solid axles.

springs are identical on a FWD loyale (at least were on mine....). but the lower perch is about an inch higher on the 4WD model.

if it's a 4-speed D/R. it'll swap in very easily. just make sure to get a driveshaft from the same body style, as others had different lengths. the difficult swap is the 5-speed D/R from an EA82. those where '85+ except hatches and brats. just get a good look at how all the linkage all works, than go to the junkyard, and pull anything connected to the tranny that you don't have.

yep, I actually like to use a cut-off wheel on my dremel to make 2 cuts, about an inch apart. this way the line will easily slide out of the holder, and when put back in, the clip will hold it in place perfectly. or, like I did on my lifted wagon when I put the braided SS lines on it, just don't run them through the bracket, and use a zip-tie to hold them clear of the wheel....

if you're talking about using a 5-speed D/R EA82 tranny, some custom work will need to be done. but if you're using a 4-speed EA81 D/R....it's quite easy.

yep, you certainly could, and I don't know why you wouldn't. or even 4.44s you can also use LSDs front and rear

I don't even undo the tie rod. just the sway bar should give it enough downward travel to get it. otherwise, loosen the nut on the end of the radius rod, that helps quite a bit.

a buddy of mine mentioned that there's a company making CV shafts for the front of lifted fullsize chevy's, that have a slip joint in the middle, much like the front driveshaft of a jeep. this way the joints themselves wouldn't have to make up the difference. I've got a few ideas for my next subaru. but I have to graduate from college, get a full time job, and a garage of my own, first.

Bingo. yes, leaving the scene is illegal. But it's hard to call it a hit and run if didn't hit anything, but was hit by someone else. I don't think the camaro driver was in the right here, but he certainly wasn't at fault.

sounds like you've got the right idea. I usually wedge something like a big fat screwdriver or chisel in between where the pinch bolt goes on the top of the knuckle, spray a crapload of WD-40 or PB Blaster on it, put the wheel on, and put it on the ground. That usualy gets it. otherwise, a little weight on the fender does.

I bet it's a BYB kit. since AA only made their kits for a year or so, I doubt any cars with their lift are in the boneyard....yet.

yea, I'm driving my EA82 with no t-stat in 40* weather, and it barely warms up...

sounds like it to me. I'm sorry for your loss, but don't go pointing your finger at everyone you can find. He had no responsibility to be watching your lane for you, and then making room for you to make a last minute mineuvor (sp?) because you weren't paying close enough attention. maybe the Honda was going to slow, and if so, they were at fault. but trying to drag the camaro into it to is a bit of a stretch.

That's exactly what I was thinking....I just wasn't sure which line was supposed to get it. thanks. it's an EJ swapped car, so under the dash is a bit of a mess of wires, so if the vacuum leak is up there, it'll be a huge pain. but I know it's coming throught the firewall by the wiper motor....so I'll try it from the other end, and see where that gets me. thanks guys

on my loyale, the HVAC control isn't working. the electrical part is working fine, so I have heat, but it comes out the middle. so the vacuum thing isn't working right. at first I assumed it was that I didn't get the line hooked up right from the engine, but it appears that I did. Anyway, I've got another control here, that I assume works fine (it did when I took it out of my '85 and put it in the box in the garage anyway :-\ ). I'm going to swap them out tomorrow, but does anyone know which of the 4 vacuum lines on the back is supposed to get the vacuum from the engine? I assume one gets it from the engine, and the switch routes it accordingly to open or close the necessary valves. I'd like to make sure it really is the switch while I've got it apart.

the only way to use a rear diff in the front, is to put at least 6" of custom lift into the car, and put a divorced (usually nissan, but suzuki would work too) transfer case behind your stock transmission. then mount a rear diff under the transmission/engine. BUT, if you swap to a 5-speed transmission, any aftermarket front LSD for a newer 5-speed (i.e. WRX) would work just fine. you'd probably also have to swap the inner joints on your axles, since the spline count would be different...but it could be done.

as already mentioned, it should be like that. you set the drivers side one straight up, then rotate the crank 360* (cam will only go 180*), and then set the passenger side one straight up. and if it's off, even by only one tooth, it'll barely run at all....

control arms are completely different than EJ stuff, which use lower A-arms. I just wasn't certain of the difference between XT6 and regular EA82, since they look identical...but now I know. and I'm fairly certain that EJ tie rod ends have different thread dimensions than an EA, whicn is why XT6 rod ends must be used.

yep, I'll definately be running braided SS lines. and yes, already running rear discs, and will use the larger XT6 ones.

nice, currently I'm running stock EA82 front calipers, and 200SX rears. maybe I'll just get 2-pot WRX fronts....that'd be a step up, and wouldn't mess with my balance too badly. I've got all the parts for the swap using '92 legacy front stuff from the same donor car as my engine. it'll be awhile before I can actually get the conversion in there, mostly since I can't bear to waste all these sets of good tires mounted on 13" wheels (specifically the snow tires ). But I want to start collecting the parts now, including having the rear rotors turned, and cryo'ed. and definately some nice pads

yep, with a couple zip ties.... but I'm working on a cone filter adapter, so the air box won't be there for long... Austin, I haven't been able to get ahold of Kris yet, so I don't have a good pinout....

yep, lots of good info in the write-up. the rear suspension (and therefore the way the brakes mount) is completely different. and the lower front suspension is completely different aswell, the EA car/XT6 uses control arm/leading rods, whereas the EJ cars use an A-arm.... I still can't figure out the difference between XT6 control arms and EA82 control arms....

In the US at least, it's not based on year, it's turbo vs. non-turbo (or part-time vs. full-time, but for the most part, those are pretty similar). turbo's having the 3.7, non-turbo's having the 3.9 but yes, double check before using anything

I doubt he is, judging from the fender gap and tire size. I've got stock-sized tires tucked almost an inch up into the fenders in the front, and the control arms still aren't flat. and, with the spring rates as tight as they are, the angles don't change much. so even if it is that low, it won't make that much difference.... anyway, looks awesome man, and I imagine it handles amazing. I drove an impreza this last weekend with an old Tein Flex system on it (needed revalving....), and it was amazing. ME WANT!!

just wondering how the brake balance is on those of you using EJ front brakes. anyone using upgraded front calipers? my buddy keeps telling me I should get 4-pot fronts, but but since I can't match it with the 2-pots in the rear, I'll probably end up with some nasty understeer under hard braking.... thoughts?