Numbchux

I know there's a great write-up by QMan already in the manual. but I just did this swap again this last weekend, and took a few pics while I was doing it. and thought you guys might like to add them to the write-up. pieces to save from 3.9: LSD carrier to swap from 3.7 to 3.9: LSD carrier with 3.9 Ring Gear on it: All assembled but stub axles and rear cover: No grinding was necessary on either case. one from an '85 EA82, the other from an '88 EA81.

awesome list! The colors are all the same (for the plugs anyway...I don't remember all the wire colors...) for U.S. Spec... you'll also need a few individual wires for your tach and temp gauges. tach comes straight from the ECU, and temp comes straight from the engine. you'll need to find the corresponding wire for these in the EA81 harness, and splice them in.

an outback sport will have the same basic engine. but OBD II (more complex wiring...), and probably single port exhaust. yes, you'll need to replace the computer, and all the wiring between it and the engine. Mechanically speaking these swaps are a breeze....electrically, they're pretty difficult.

oh man. that is bad! I'm throwing an CEL because I haven't hooked up the vehicle speed sensor....maybe one of these days I'll get around to that....

91, to be exact (EA82 SPFI....carbed was closer to 80) anyway, the EJ22 was in alot of subarus. probably the best donor car would be a '90-'94 legacy. these have the simplist wiring system (OBD I), and are pretty common. easiest way is to buy a car that is rusted out, or has been rear-ended, and strip it yourself. Junkyard donors are possible, but you have no idea of the history, and it's a pretty big job to try to do in a junkyard. much easier to take your time in your own driveway/garage. pretty similar amount of work to any other engine swap, and is the best option as far as power/torque for your money!! about the info source.....I'm working on a conversion site. it's under construction, I should have some time off this week, so maybe I'll get around to finishing it! http://www.geocities.com/numbchuxSOAD/EA2EJ I'm mostly using info from this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=48848

1 is definately your fuel pump relay. should have a green with black striped wire going to the ECU, that's what turns it on. I'm pretty sure 2 isn't your check engine connector, since that is yellow, and the one in the picture isn't.... 3 is definately the check engine connector. this will make it flash engine codes to you. definately leave that in there! 4 looks like stuff that goes up into the dash. probably a few things there that you'll need the brown one in 5 is your main relay, you'll need that. I beleive the green one is the starter relay, which is optional, I just used my EA starter circuit, and it's working fine. and yep, 6 is the fuse box stuff....you won't need any of that. just run your own wire with a fuse holder inline straight to the battery for that. and then tap in the few wires that need to be switched with the IGN right to the ignition switch. beyond that, if you don't know what a wire does, trace it to the other end. if it doesn't go under the hood, or to the ECU, you don't need it. that should get you down almost all the way. if it does go the ECU, reference it to the pinout I uploaded, and see what it does. then you can determine if you need it or not, if not, cut it out of there. I had origionally intended to just bundle everything extra up, and hide it too. but when it didn't run, it made troubleshooting a total pain in the butt.....so I pulled it all back out, and stripped it down. it was DEFINATELY worth the effort!!!

I've put about 2,000 on it since I got it running in August. once I got the connections resoldered at the Crank Angle Sensor, I haven't had a problem since. little hard starting in the cold, I think I'll put the wire for the block heater back in, and change the oil for some 5W-30.

the ECU does control spark, but unplug the fuel pump relay, turn the engine over a few times (to get rid of any fuel in the lines...), now spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body. it'll start and run for a few seconds. even rev a little (until it runs out) same idea, it'll continue to get a signal from the crank and cam angle sensors, and continue to send signal to the ign coils and injectors, but there won't be any fuel at the injectors. instead it'll be coming in with the air and through the intake. beyond that, I can't help you, except to say that I think it would be best to do it after the MAF....cause I bet the propane would render the sensor inoperable pretty quickly.

I know, it's cheaper to going divorced tcase. and certainly easier!

I thought my '85 was the most fun thing ever. heck, I loved my FWD 3AT loyale! until, that is, winter came, and I got stuck in everything (didn't have money for decent tires), and the actuator for the tranny started leaking and it would refuse to shift at anything above 3k rpms. then, I decided I wanted to build an autocross toy, and for now would include a bone stock EJ22 and an RX tranny. and let me say, it's definately more fun. "it's more fun to drive a slow car fast, than to drive a fast car slow" an EJ22-powered EA82 car is still slow enough to fit in that first category, where it really is pretty easy to drive it hard and fast, and be well within the acceptable limits of speed. but it much closer to the cutoff. but yes, I understand. but let me just put one more encouragement to do the swap. it's even more fun (if you can imagine it)!

cause his subaru wasn't worth the effort (I know, I had it for almost 6 months...and the rot had taken over!), and he replaced it with something with solid axles.

springs are identical on a FWD loyale (at least were on mine....). but the lower perch is about an inch higher on the 4WD model.

if it's a 4-speed D/R. it'll swap in very easily. just make sure to get a driveshaft from the same body style, as others had different lengths. the difficult swap is the 5-speed D/R from an EA82. those where '85+ except hatches and brats. just get a good look at how all the linkage all works, than go to the junkyard, and pull anything connected to the tranny that you don't have.

yep, I actually like to use a cut-off wheel on my dremel to make 2 cuts, about an inch apart. this way the line will easily slide out of the holder, and when put back in, the clip will hold it in place perfectly. or, like I did on my lifted wagon when I put the braided SS lines on it, just don't run them through the bracket, and use a zip-tie to hold them clear of the wheel....

if you're talking about using a 5-speed D/R EA82 tranny, some custom work will need to be done. but if you're using a 4-speed EA81 D/R....it's quite easy.

yep, you certainly could, and I don't know why you wouldn't. or even 4.44s you can also use LSDs front and rear

I don't even undo the tie rod. just the sway bar should give it enough downward travel to get it. otherwise, loosen the nut on the end of the radius rod, that helps quite a bit.

a buddy of mine mentioned that there's a company making CV shafts for the front of lifted fullsize chevy's, that have a slip joint in the middle, much like the front driveshaft of a jeep. this way the joints themselves wouldn't have to make up the difference. I've got a few ideas for my next subaru. but I have to graduate from college, get a full time job, and a garage of my own, first.

Bingo. yes, leaving the scene is illegal. But it's hard to call it a hit and run if didn't hit anything, but was hit by someone else. I don't think the camaro driver was in the right here, but he certainly wasn't at fault.

sounds like you've got the right idea. I usually wedge something like a big fat screwdriver or chisel in between where the pinch bolt goes on the top of the knuckle, spray a crapload of WD-40 or PB Blaster on it, put the wheel on, and put it on the ground. That usualy gets it. otherwise, a little weight on the fender does.

I bet it's a BYB kit. since AA only made their kits for a year or so, I doubt any cars with their lift are in the boneyard....yet.

yea, I'm driving my EA82 with no t-stat in 40* weather, and it barely warms up...

sounds like it to me. I'm sorry for your loss, but don't go pointing your finger at everyone you can find. He had no responsibility to be watching your lane for you, and then making room for you to make a last minute mineuvor (sp?) because you weren't paying close enough attention. maybe the Honda was going to slow, and if so, they were at fault. but trying to drag the camaro into it to is a bit of a stretch.

That's exactly what I was thinking....I just wasn't sure which line was supposed to get it. thanks. it's an EJ swapped car, so under the dash is a bit of a mess of wires, so if the vacuum leak is up there, it'll be a huge pain. but I know it's coming throught the firewall by the wiper motor....so I'll try it from the other end, and see where that gets me. thanks guys

on my loyale, the HVAC control isn't working. the electrical part is working fine, so I have heat, but it comes out the middle. so the vacuum thing isn't working right. at first I assumed it was that I didn't get the line hooked up right from the engine, but it appears that I did. Anyway, I've got another control here, that I assume works fine (it did when I took it out of my '85 and put it in the box in the garage anyway :-\ ). I'm going to swap them out tomorrow, but does anyone know which of the 4 vacuum lines on the back is supposed to get the vacuum from the engine? I assume one gets it from the engine, and the switch routes it accordingly to open or close the necessary valves. I'd like to make sure it really is the switch while I've got it apart.