Numbchux

I mean, the top 5 are all 22Bs (425 made worldwide in 1998, zero brought to the US). 17 of the next 19 are S209s (209 made for 2019, all delivered in the US). The top of the normal production cars are low mileage STis for 60kish. These were 35k cars new, 20 years ago. So double for the best of the best handful of examples sound about right. BAT is very high demand right now, and commands some serious money for clean examples of almost anything. I mean, here's a 1978 Brat that sold for $46k...

I have never seen a printed thing from Subaru saying what is and is not acceptable. But if the circumference of the tire differs even a little bit, it can change the rpms of the hub fairly substantially. And since circumference is effected 6.28x the tread depth difference, it's pretty important. And since it is exponential, technically a tread depth variation is not accurate, as 1/32 of variance on a 195/75r13 will have a much larger affect than on a 245/50r20. 2 different model tires, made to the same "size" can have a decent variation in circumference, so bad juju to mix and match. Even within the same manufacturer. I've worked at 2 Subaru dealerships over the years, the first would shoot for 2/32, and the current one within 1/32. I will be shaving a brand new tire this afternoon for a customer who had a flat. That is all the official answer. That is correct practice to ensure zero extra wear on your differentials. Anything more than that WILL cause wear, but it's incremental. And will depend heavily on AWD type (01 H6 could be MPT or VTD) and typical usage. Up to you to decide if you're willing to accept a bit. A small difference might make your transfer clutches wear out a few thousand miles earlier than they would have anyway. If you buy a Forester MT that's been lowered and has Impreza-sized tires on it, and get a flat and put the Forester spare on it. You will make it about 45 miles before the rear diff (even though it's not an LSD) catches fire. Ask me how I know.....

Alternator In my years at Subaru dealerships, I can't remember the last time I've seen a fuel pump fail. There was a recall on them a few years ago. Sometimes we replace the whole assembly, but even that is usually due to rodent damage. Alternators aren't exactly common either, but it happens. Out of curiousity...I have a 2015 Outback VIN in my catalog right now. I have 2 alternators here, and there are 53 in the warehouses nationwide. I have zero fuel pumps or pump assemblies, and there are 4 assemblies in the warehouses nationwide. Now, that doesn't take into account fitment (if that part number for alternator fits a lot more cars than the fuel pump).

Those will have a sunroof. I don't believe it'll fit.

Looks like 00-04 Legacy/obk wagon w/o sunroof. I found this old listing for a w/sunroof version, which looks almost identical except the bump in the middle section isn't quite as tall (which would make sense as the sunroof headliner is lower). https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/sold-subaru-outback-limited-2000-2004-dog-gate-compartment-barrier.527261/ PS, Subaru calls them a Dog Guard

I do buy auto parts on Amazon sometimes. But I never look it up there. I usually start with an OEM number (VIN specific catalogs for many makes on www.partsouq.com), interchange and double-check on rockauto. There are a lot of counterfeit parts on Amazon and eBay, so be very wary of that. If you care what brand you're getting, don't go there. Spark plugs and filters are the worst. Also. OEM filters list for $9.58 from Subaru.

It provides a mount for the A/C belt cover. EDIT, here's a picture that shows it. Under one of the A/C compressor bolts

By VIN, your car uses the 040. 100 is for the 3.0 and 07-09 253 (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). Destination code U5 is for California, even though it's a 253.

My thought exactly, yes.

Moosens described checking if the cam timing is correct My bet is that the crank and LH cam sprockets are incorrect. Pull the covers and check the crank sprockets (can be done without removing the timing belt) between the 2 engines. But yea, swap the manifold gaskets for the correct ones. Pull trouble codes before taking stuff apart.

Yea, I've heard of people filing grooves out of the cage/basket. But that typically locks the clutches on or off. The bang suggests to me that the clutches are working, but something is moving when they engage. I would closely inspect all rubber bushings/mounts before considering tearing into the transmission. It could also be worn clutches not engaging when they should. Or both....

Likely need to swap the crank and LH cam sprocket from the old engine. The tone wheels for the crank and cam sensors are part of those sprockets, and there are a couple different patterns.

Flashing CEL is an active misfire. You can't just clear it, you have to repair the fault first.

I'm not aware of a write-up. All FAs and FBs will be largely similar. Newer ones have direct injection (mechanical fuel pump) and electronic thermostat that you don't have to worry about. Engine out, for sure. Timing cover/chains off. Valve covers, cam carriers and then heads off. We see a ton of leaking upper oil pans and oil level switches (might not apply if it's a Forester), so I would recommend pulling that all and resealing it while the engine is out. There are a bunch of Orings and such, but most of the job is FIPG. Using it correctly and adequately is crucial to a successful repair, too much and you clog your oil passages, not enough and it leaks more than it did before. I've seen trained, but new, Subaru technicians need a couple tries to get the timing cover to seal completely.

Recalls are only for life threatening conditions. Even warranty extensions and class action lawsuits expire. The fix is tighter piston rings. Replacing piston rings in a mechanical shop is costly and time consuming, makes more sense to just swap it for an updated shortblock. Either way, tighter rings will reduce fuel mileage. If you know a GOOD mechanic (not a guy who worked on a Chevy once) who will give you a screaming deal on his time, the engine can be rebuilt. Probably $800ish in parts from your local dealership, but a LOT of labor. Or $3k in parts from the dealer for a shortblock and gaskets, and then only a bunch of labor (and still skilled labor. Cam carrier and timing chains will leak the first few times a person does them). I've heard of people retrofitting used engines from slightly newer cars with a few minor modifications. Might be worth looking into. But consult with the shop you're likely to use, as that can be a can of worms that leads to endless headaches for everybody, so they might not want to touch it. Or, just live with it. My mom bought a 2012 Impreza years ago with about 20k miles on it, but a salvage title (no warranty, even extensions. Only recalls). She drove it for about 200k miles before the CVT failed. She had to add a quart or more between every single oil change. We would buy a case of 0w-20, and always keep a quart in the trunk, and tuck a small funnel and rag into the engine bay next to the battery. Learn the difference between oil level and oil pressure warning lights. Oil level warning doesn't mean stop right now, you can wait until the next fuel stop. Oil consumption is a symptom of looser tolerances and lighter oils, which all manufacturers are using to try to meet the demand for fuel economy. This is not uncommon. And complexity of repair is definitely universal on modern cars.

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Nobody click the links in the post above! New member, edited post. Sketchy AF

Probably transfer clutches. Get them new, and fix it. You don't have to pull the transmission, and a used trans is likely to also have worn clutches. Also inspect all rear suspension and diff bushings. AWD could be engaging normally, but a bushing is clunking when it's loaded.

The painted bumper looks great

I got a SOHC EJ20 a couple years ago for an '01 Forester. The donor engine was much newer than that. SOP is to swap the intake manifold, and all wiring/sensors/injectors/throttle body/coil/etc from your old engine. Oil pan will likely be different, leaving more room for the larger cat, swap it for more capacity, or don't. Good idea to do plugs, valve cover gaskets, oil separator and timing while it's out. It will almost certainly have a 7mm oil pump, so I would swap to a 9 or 10. BUT, read the fine print from the seller, as removal of anything sometimes can void the warranty. I bought through eBay, as that would have some standardized way to look at seller history and feedback. And as a result, there is some incentive for them to make things right if things went sideways. I also paid with a credit card through paypal, so I would have 2 ways to dispute the charge. I've heard so many horror stories over the years about importers that send out junk, leave customers out to dry, and then change their name after a couple years and some bad publicity.

That's how you know there's oil in them, right?

Yea, level switch on Imprezas and Leg/OBKs was just for a warning light. But it got people to come in to the dealer and complain long before the engine blew up. I don't like that it comes on when the engine is about .5 quart low, but it might have saved me a couple engines in my life.... Yea, the bulletin and warranty extension was for -14 cars, and a few 15s. But we've done plenty of newer ones. It's certainly improved, though.

11-14 Foresters did not have an oil level switch/warning light. It was very common to see catastrophic failure on those, as they typically got driven until they burned so much that they lost pressure. Modern cars have so many modules that stay active even with the key off, it's pretty crucial that they get driven.

We've seen them get bad enough to wreck the AF sensor, because that's right under the RF corner of the engine.

CANBUS was mandatory in all US vehicles since 2008 (most adopted it several years before that) I think both engines have their advantages. The FB is less likely to need anything, but a bigger job to do (to do almost anything on the FB, you have to remove the timing chain cover and chains). Take care of them, keep on top of the oil changes (I see VVT solenoids gummed up on both engines). Throw that Sham oil filter in the dump with the rest of the filthy cardboard and use a Tokyo Roki from the dealer, or WIX. The EJ will leak oil externally. The FB will probably leak it and/or burn it. Neither car has a low oil level indicator (just pressure), so check the dipstick periodically, and they'll do fine.