MSSLGECKO

I'm in Missoula now and will be going Bozeman on Tuesday. If you need help and are near me, holler at me. PM for my phone number. Good luck!

Sounds like you need to pull the brake caliper and take a look at it. It's pretty straightforward once you get in there figuring out how to get the caliper off (2 bolts from the inner-side of the hub).

Just a shot in the dark, but can this setup be adapted to an EA81T? (What custom fab. would it require?)

Thanks for the advice, I just solved it though, my spark wires were all 90 degrees off. I knew that it would work because after i rearranged the wires, I ate sh*^ entering the car to start it and at that moment I knew it would work! My car requires blood, sweat and tears to run properly. - Noah

Howdy All, I went to do some tune-up bits to the old '83 T-Wagon and managed to kill it. Here's what I did: I removed the airbox and MAF and cleaned both with brake cleaner, replaced the rotor and distributor cap, new spark plugs. Now the car won't catch and run. Here's where I think the problem most likely lies, hopefully you guys can give me some direction. - Destroyed the MAF because I didn't realize I needed to be careful. - Bad cap and rotor (?), I had a hell of a time getting those parts from a local store. - Didn't gap check the spark plugs. - Couldn't find new wires, the original ones tested fine, but who knows. - Spark wires in the wrong order? I have yet to order all the right parts and re-install everything again the right way. But, I will appreciate any input that can point me in the right direction. On a side note, if my haunch that I killed my MAF is correct, can I use the 'hot-wire' MAF from an '85-'86 EA82T? (It looks the same from pictures) So, now when I try to start the car, it cranks over and eventually gives a backfire. Thanks! INPUT HERE: (Edit: Is the distributor firing order the same on the EA81T as the EA81?)

Howdy, I'm going to help my buddy replace the water pump in his '96 Legacy EJ22. I haven't done it before and don't have a manual for his car, so I have a couple of questions: A. OEM or Aftermarket parts? B. Can this be done w/ engine in the car and w/o re-setting the timing belt? (Someone told me to clamp the timing belt) C. Is there an online manual for this engine that describes this procedure? If not, what manual should I buy? D. Just to check, no special tools will be required, right? Thanks, - Noah

I just did a tune-up on my EA81T wagon and now it won't run. I replaced the rotor, distributor cap, and spark plugs. (I couldn't find the right wires at the parts stores and my old ones tested good.) Anyways, I checked HTKYSA to make sure the wires were correctly placed on the distributor cap. I am skeptical that I have the right rotor because the first one they gave me was for the carb'd EA81; they went digging and came back with one that is similar but not identical to my old rotor. I'm not sure where to go from here; I guess I'll order a rotor online somewhere and see if that does anything.

I'm thinking that a dimmer light switch should work. Hopefully I don't destroy the motor or blow a fuse.

Was that with a fan mounted on the TMIC? How dramatic is the difference between fan only and scooped?

I don't know where a FMIC would fit, and it would need to be protected from me running into things off-road. I will have to examine more closely to see if there is space in the front area.

I've got an MKII Toyota MR2 IC that I intend to install on my EA81T Wagon (lifted). However, I would prefer to avoid adding a hood scoop because I think it will look strange on the wagon. So, I'm seeking solutions to use an Air-to-Air IC w/o a hood scoop. Has anyone installed one w/o? Is there an alternate placement of the IC that might work? Thoughts & objections?

Okay that answers my question, thanks. I was just hoping for a cheap switch or some such; I can live w/ an on/off switch for now.

This was over 1 year ago when I replaced the blower fan motor. IIRC, the resistors were damaged by an accidental electrical contact that I made when installing the new blower motor (I don't believe any of the speed settings were functional after that). To make the fan functional, I spliced a switched wire in from the key-ignition harness to draw power in the ignition-position 'ON' such that the fan operates @ 100% power ONLY. What I was thinking is that there might be switches w/ variable states of resistance to function similarly to the original 4 speeds.

Well, as I explained, I already rewired the motor and don't intend to fix the stock switch anytime soon. So, is there a switch that I can buy for what I want it to do?

So, my fan motor died a long time ago and I replaced it, but in doing so I believe I fried the original fan speed switch in the dash. So, I rewired the fan motor using an on/off switch. I'm wondering if there is a variable switch that I could use. Do I need a certain type or will any work?

Yeah, I got it. The brass punch was expensive and did me no good. The screwdriver trick to pop out the conical spacer worked perfectly. I read somewhere about that driving trick, but that was not an option with one side disassembled. I just bled my brakes and drove around, man these brakes feel great! Time for a highway trip in the wagon!

This is a double post & it's in the wrong forum. Good luck finding a tranny.

IIRC, the high beams are the inner lenses on the EA81 quad headlight setup.

I got it, thanks for the help. I was confused about the orientation of the backing plate. Rear disk brakes rule.

The 'rolled' part 'faces' outboard. Graphically represented: (passenger side) O---(|- differential = 'O' axle = '----' backing plate = '(' rotor = '|' So, I have it backwards ?!? Thanks.

(n/m)

So, my biggest question is: Is there a separate bracket that goes between the caliper and the backing plate? I don't seem to be able to make the caliper bolts line up w/ the backing plate's. Plus, when I try to align them it places the brake pads too far inboard of the rotor. (!?!)

Howdy, I had another thread going but it lost momentum and I have a new line of questions regarding my rear disk brake swap on an EA81. 1: I can't remove my left-side drum brake: A. I removed the axle castle nut & flat washer, but cannot remove the cone washer from the axle; I just bought a brass punch and it did me no good (I went to 5 stores to find one). B. It was really hard to remove the right-side drum/hub (I had to turn the adjuster screw all the way to release it). I sheared off the adjuster screw on this side with it fully turned in; does anyone have a suggestion of how to remove the drum? 2: On the right-side, I have the drum off and the new backing plate bolted up. I'm experiencing a bunch of problems here: A. The new backing plate contacts the disk rotor slightly. B. The axle won't turn when I tighten the castle nut down on the rotor. C. The caliper doesn't seem to fit. The backing plate is spaced (1/2") back from the rotor and I can't seem to figure out how to make the caliper fit. Is there a separate piece (bracket) that I don't know about? Thanks, - Noah

I just sheared off the head of the adjuster screw on the drum. What do I do to turn it out? Suggestions?

I AM doing a disk brake swap, it's just been a struggle today to remove the drums. I stopped working earlier when I ran into 2 screws that were stripping on me. Can I get a replacement hardline readily from an auto parts store? Vice grips occurred to me this evening and I will try it. I'm not worried about destroying the adjuster screw, I just want it off!! Thanks for the advice, - Noah