MSSLGECKO

So I figured out that turning the adjuster screw out all the way allows the hub to come off. The adjuster nuts are all the way in; the first one came out no problem, the other one is getting stripped and won't turn. What do I do ?? I'm having the same problem disconnecting the hard brake lines from the back of the drums; they strip and won't turn any more; what do I do about these??

Well, I could have started a new thread, but I figured I'd just continue this discourse: I'm removing my rear drums and I can't get them apart!! I've got the axle nut off and the wheels, but I can't pull the hub off the rear drum brakes. Any suggestions on how to do this? My understanding is that they just pull right off, but I've been hammering on it and yelling and spraying penetrating oil all over it and nothing is happening, please direct my anger to a constructive solution! (thanks) Also, 1 of the axle washers (cone-type) doesn't want to come out and I don't have a brass punch handy, suggestions? (I haven't tried hammering a piece of wood on it yet . . . ) Thanks, - Noah

Does your starter make any sound (like a click)? If it's not engaging (esp. if it's clicking), then your starter solenoid might be toast (new starter needed). Try hitting the starter w/ something while cranking; that will jump the solenoid and turn the starter motor if that's the problem. Good luck

From what I've read in this forum, 31"s are hard to turn. Most who go that big on tires use a divorced transfer case to manage them. The divorced t-case requires 6-8" of lift (IIRC). And for reference, I have 27" tires on a 3/4" lift (EA81) and had to trim the front fenders a little to fit them. So, I'm doubtful that 4" would provide room for 31" tires. Good luck.

Will a dremel tool work to remove the excess housing material? If I don't have an LSD housing handy for comparison, will it be apparent where to grind out? Can I remove my rear differential w/out removing both axles?

Just to make sure I don't miss anything, the only component out of a 3.7 LSD needed to convert an open 3.9 diff is the LSD Carrier, right? Also, is it always necessary to grind out the 3.9 housing to fit? Thanks, - Noah

Ditto!! I think SS Braided Lines would be a hot seller to USMB members (tune-up kits may sell well too) This is a good idea, thanks for doing the footwork!

So, I CAN use the stock EA81 rear hard brake lines, then. Is it easier to pull the EA82T hard lines and install them on my car instead of rearranging the originals? Also, it seems that the consensus according to most members is that a p-valve is unnecessary to swap into EA81 cars (and '82) because the drums operate on the same exact brake pressure as the rear disks do. Also, I've never dealt with hard brake lines before, do I need any special tools? Will box-end wrenches or vice grips work?

It depends what you're doing. What do you intend to do with it? AWD is smoother for on-road driving and dirt/snowy roads. If you're going slowly in a lot of snow, it's good to have 4WD and Lo Range. 4WD gives the 50:50 split (it will get you unstuck better), while the AWD will try to transfer power between the front and rear which can be fun. Lo range is a great if you want bigger tires or do climbs. I would say if it's on regularly plowed roads and you don't get stuck, AWD; For everything else, 4WD, IMO.

My car has long since stopped being an little econo-car and is currently lugging 27" tires, which are hard to stop on the highway. I see this as a good opportunity to upgrade the brakes to something more appropriate for this car. Is it hard to bend the hard-lines? Do I need a tool to do it w/o crimping them?

Well, I'm going to leave the car where it is for now and come back in early december w/ disk brakes to swap on.

Touche, thanks for pointing that out! I don't know how that slipped my mind. (I owe you one Jerry) Now I'm looking for a Disk Brake Swap.

Yeah, they turned all the way in & the brake never touched (wheels turned) Would that cause NO brake pedal pressure? Or is that indicative of a larger problem? I decided to take the car to a shop tomorrow, I don't have all of the tools I need with me and I must drive the wagon home (200 miles) by Monday. I was quoted $160 + 80 (for new drums). I wish I had the time and tools to do it; but, alas I just need it done. Thanks for the info!

Okay, I just turned both adjuster screws on the rear drums and they went all the way in . . . . is it time for new drum shoes?

EA81T Wagon (1983). I'm bleeding the brakes on my wagon tonight & HTKYSA says to adjust the rear drums first. (Do I have to?) It says to jack the car up to do this so you can rotate the wheel to make sure that the adjustment is right. Do I have to jack it up?(it's got a lift so i can access everything else w/o jacking it) Is there another way? Can I bleed the brakes w/o adjusting the rear drums? Thanks, - Noah

Hey, this is an awesome thread!! I've been looking for EA81T upgrade ideas for a while, but the topic doesn't come up often. I still haven't got my head around the cone filter modification: How do I do it? Another question: Looking at the pic. on pg.2, I see a bar that goes between the struts and bends in the middle making room for a spare tire. Is that a functional bar? Also, what is the nature of the sensor w/ a plug mounted on it? I removed it from my T-Wagon and never replaced it because it didn't appear functional.

Awesome Find! The Ultimate Road Racing Justy!

Usually, you can use one of the following to distinguish bad cv's: sound, visual inspection, driving feel. When 1 front axle is going bad, that side may 'click' or 'scrape' noticably, have torn boots, or shake when turning or moving. Good luck, you might be able to get under there and shake them around to tell which is worse.

The D/R 5- & 4-SPD's are all MANUAL gearboxes; 4WD Autos are S/R (single range) if they aren't FT4WD (AWD).

^ True that: I think it IS somewhat cheaper to source parts for EA82s and more of them are still on the road. Cheers and good luck on your project! If you have to source an EA82 wagon, take your time to make sure you get a appropriate transmission and engine configuration for off-roading. That way, after trimming fenders and sourcing steel pugeots, the wagon will be ready for a body lift kit and an EJ engine swap. Lifted Subarus RULE.

My Vote = EA81 ! ! ! +1 = Reliability of the EA81 pushrod engine is superior to '82 w/ less maintenence issues +1 = Desireable EA82 parts swap over without major fab. (5SPD D/R, rear diff.s & disk brakes, etc.) +1 = Better Proportions, a Smaller & Lighter Body (respective to bodystyles), & the trademark Spacecraft Dashboard! +1 = Compared w/ EA82 Coupe: Wagon has Larger Capacity for Gear, Tools, & Spares) I think EA81 Wagons (and Sedans!) serve as excellent lifted Subaru rigs. They are durable and easy to work on and look good after nearly 30 years after it was designed. Besides, doesn't it feel better smashing an older EA81 Wagon into obstacles off-road as one commonly does, than ruining your streetable EA82 Coupe? *BOTH EA81 & EA82 SUBARUS ARE GREAT AND FOR THE MOST PART NEARLY IDENTICAL IN THEIR OFF-ROADABILITY* That's my 2¢ - [i didn't see any posts taking a pro-EA81 'bodystyle', so there is my stance.] Disclaimer: I would be happy to off-road any EA82, but given the two alternatives, I know which car I would rather keep on the road for it's nicer ride and whcih one I would try to climb trees with! IIRC, there are a good number of senior USMB'ers who were big EA81 proponents back when I found this well of oldschool Subaru knowledge.

Hey, if you're coming to Bozeman in an EA81T, I'd like to see your car! If you need any parts or tools when in town, feel free to call upon me.

I've got an EA81T lifted wagon you might like in Missoula, MT.

I haven't done brakes on an EA82, but can't you press the calliper piston back with a large C-clamp? Or do you have to use a special tool?

I am set on an EA82T for the swap mostly because I was planning on running an EJ AWD Tranny, and by the sounds of it, it is easier to do so w/ an EA82T chasis. I don't really want the adaptor plate mostly because I think I can source the EJ tranny cheaper than ordering the plate and machining the flywheel. As far as the 2WD-4WD conversion, how hard is it?