Olnick

Sidewall height is shown as a ratio of tire width--thats the 70 and 75 numbers. Your rear tire circumference is actually 2.3 inches more than the front tires, totally out of range for an AWD vehicle! As mentioned, 1/4" is the maximum acceptable difference.

Thanks guys, I finally found it too! And thanks for the response, gg. All that crap about "must be" is a pet peeve of mine. However when someone presents solid proof, I'll be out there leading the parade and waving the OEM flag!

YIKES! Get them off! All 4 tires MUST be the same circumference, within 1/4" difference max.

Sorry gg, gotta' disagree with you there. Bosch makes excellent O2 sensors. As a matter of fact, they invented them! Until someone presents some hard proof, what "folks are saying" is nothing but old wives' tales. What is the " P0032 code"? I can't find a definition anywhere.

Is your CEL on? Did you check for stored codes?

Where is Inman? Might be helpful to add state initials to your city.

Hey, yeah, I saw your brake switch thread. As I said, great people here with a vast store of experience & information. Tons of good info from the past too--the search function is a valuable tool. Glad you're settling in!

Well hello! Sorry but today is the first time I've seen your first post. Nice looking ride. What year is she? Jump in the New Gen Forum and start asking questions--lotsa' good information here and good people who like to share it. Welcome aboard!

Best bet is get a remanufactured Subaru axle from MWE. Marshall Wolf is a good guy to deal with and the quality seems to be superb. You can call him at1-303-522-8070. Good luck.

Welcome BB! That is one beautiful Brat you got there. Very stealthy!

Paul, I suggest you do some searching here on USMB and learn more about your engine. You have the last of the wonderful non-interference EJ22 engines and it's virtually "bulletproof!" Yes, any engine can blow head gaskets but it's rather rare with yours. I don't think blown HGs usually leak oil anyway. And the oil leak at the rear of the engine is most likely the oil separator plate. Don't touch the rear main seal unless you're positive it is bad--you'll end up causing yourself even more problems. Fairtax, the driver side front seal you mentioned is the same O-ring as the passenger side rear. It can be changed quite easily without pulling the engine--just have to remove the cam pulley and rear timing belt cover to get to it. (Or did you mean the camshaft seal?) Anyway, good luck Paul. Feel free to ask lotsa' questions!

Attagirl! (Can I have Ham & Swiss on light rye, please?)

Fantastic! Thanks. Hey, she's looking gooood!

Congratulations, that's great news! So what exactly did you do to fix the torque bind, replace the Duty C solenoid? Grind the clutch plates in the extension housing? Both?

Very nice writeup Scoobywagon. I'm very impressed with your knowledge. Thanks!

CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor. It sends important temp readings to the ECU.

I think you made a very wise choice. Congratulations!

Bill90--read post #36 in the thread johnc gave you. It's been years since I did it but I remember that it is super easy. Good luck.

Welcome aboard, reefstick. Looks like you're already getting great input. But guys wouldn't it be better to put this discussion in the appropriate technical forum and not in the Welcome Center? It'd be a lot more accessible to others over there too. :-\

Amen Brother! Well said.

Truly a major technical consideration!

Excellent suggestions. I too used the car's scissors jack to break the drain plugs loose. To refill the rear diff I ran a small plastic tube from the fill hole, out through the passenger side wheel well and attached it to a funnel. Mounted the funnel high enough to let gravity do its thing--slow but effective!

Try a search. Took me about 10-seconds to find this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121796&highlight=EJ22+timing+belt

^+1! Definitely try the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Good luck.

Wow! Just beautiful. Thanks for sharing.